IP-256SL by MTB2223

[MTB2223]

It's a cheap knock off. To be honest, I didn't expect anything of this 8 USD saddle, but it suprised me. It's better than my previous saddle and I'll keep this one.

Bought it on aliexpress: http://www.aliexpress.com/item/IN-2014-Spider-Ergonomics-hollow-Bicycle-bicycle-parts-saddle-for-men-women-mtb-bike-seat-cushion/2038227912.html



My weight is 82 kg without kit. The weight of the saddle is 185 gram.

After 5 months the saddle begin to fail. Two cracks.
The saddle was comfortable for 40 km.





So, I'm now using my saddle of my previous bike.

[Carbon_Dude]

So would you not recommend this $8 USD saddle, or do you think you would order another?

[MTB2223]

So would you not recommend this $8 USD saddle, or do you think you would order another?

No, not for me (82kg), it's not strong enough. And not comfortable above the 40km (for me).
But I'll buy another one for my son, but he can try my old one first.

[MTB2223]

After 7 months of riding this Chiner, I'm still very happy with the bike.

Still no cracks. The only failure was one of the four ring bearings in my rear wheel. But that was really easy to fix (that's why I chose Novatec hubs).
Changed from 2x10 to 1x10 (absoluteblack NW chainring rules), replaced the soft foam grips to ergo grips and the spider sadle to my old cube X1 saddle.

[Sussed.]

Still looking good MTB ! 

[Carbon_Dude]

After 7 months of riding this Chiner, I'm still very happy with the bike.
Still no cracks. The only failure was one of the four ring bearings in my rear wheel. But that was really easy to fix (that's why I chose Novatec hubs).
Changed from 2x10 to 1x10 (absoluteblack NW chainring rules), replaced the soft foam grips to ergo grips and the spider sadle to my old cube X1 saddle.

Bike still looks great!  Thanks for the update.

[MTB2223]

Because of a creaking crank, yesterday I took the time to maintain of all the bearings on my bike.
I disassembled the headset and the bottom bracket. Remove all the sealing rings of the ring bearings. Cleaned it with WD40 and then with an air-compressor. Re greased it. Put the sealing rings back. And assembled it all again. And now the bike is silent again. But I think this maintenance interval is to short. With my previous bike I hadn't do this kind of maintenance in two years. I think the neco headset haven't got the best top sealing (between the top cap and the frame). And maybe I cleaned my bike to much with soap and water ... So, my next maintenance approach is to clean the bike less often except the drive train.

[carbonazza]

The bottom bearing of my headset(a cane creek 40) seized with the rust a month or so ago.
The main bearing on the Lefty developed some serious play.
And I'm on my 3rd pair of BB bearings.

I will never buy expensive bearings for these parts anymore.
I was disappointed initially, but bearings are cheap after all.

I've never changed any of these on my Cannondale Rush...

[MTB2223]

The bottom bearing of my headset(a cane creek 40) seized with the rust a month or so ago.
The main bearing on the Lefty developed some serious play.
And I'm on my 3rd pair of BB bearings.

I will never buy expensive bearings for these parts anymore.
I was disappointed initially, but bearings are cheap after all.

I've never changed any of these on my Cannondale Rush...

The bottom bracket in the IP-256 has some drain holes, so, no water and dirt is left in the BB. And yesterday I take a look in the BB and it was clean and dry.


Don't know why the BB bearings are wearing that much. I think it's my own fault, cleaning to much with soap and water and maybe using direct (hard) water on the BB.

[carbonazza]

I don't clean it too much or pressure wash, but ride in rather harsh conditions during the winter.

My BB was closed, a simple waterproof aluminium tube with two profiled end for the bearings.
Water and mud were getting in anyway.
Definitely through the shaft/bearing interface or the bearing seals.

I drilled two holes through bottom the hatch and BB, and now when removing the crank arm, it is generally clean and dry.
The bearings still doesn't last long, but longer than without holes.

[Tiptopperoo]

Hi MTB, thanks for all your posts, the info has been really helpful. I will be building my own 256 in the near future.

I did have a question about what the conclusion was with the front derailer. I was following your thread about the 256 Direct Mount,http://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,296.15.html but it didn't really come to a conclusion. I can see in your most recent picture that you are running a single front ring now. Was this because you couldn't find a front derailer that worked, or you just thought it would be easier? Do we know if any front derailer works nicely with the 256 frame?

Out of interest, have you been happy with the 1x setup? I'm only just getting in to riding so wanted to give myself as many options as possible with a 2x setup for now.

Thanks in advance,
Dave

[MTB2223]

Hi Tiptopperoo,

Here in the Netherlands it's enough for me to ride the bike 1x10 (setup front 34T, rear 11-36T). When I'm going to more mountainous environment like Germany or Belgium, I will install the 2x10 setup (front 38-24T, rear 11-36T).
The best front derailleur on this moment is still the XT FD E-Type (my first FD). It's not ideal for the FD cable and the frame, but it works perfect. The SRAM FD is ideal for the FD cable (and frame hose), but unusable with the charinring positions.

[Tiptopperoo]

Thanks again MTB, I've been looking at the new XT 8000 series, does that front derailer look like it may fit better as it seems to be a direct pull? Or am I dreaming?

I'm a bit scared to run a FD on this frame as it seems to be really poorly designed for it, but I'm also a little bit anxious to run a 1x11 setup as I may get stuck on some hills.

Cheers,
Dave

[MTB2223]

Last month I build a new bike for my little son and I had a spare SRAM X5 FD left. And when I took a closer look to this FD, I think it will fit perfectly. The starting point of the X5 FD is better than the one of the XX FD.

I'll try this soon ...

[MTB2223]

Yesterday I replaced my XT double crank for a LX triple crank to get a better chainline. The chainline is now 5mm closer to the frame and now in the middle of the cassette. I hope this will reduce the noise when I'm using the biggest cog. This new setup adds another 50gr to my bike, but I don't care