Carbonda fm936 Thoughts

[adroitrider]

or round about  25 €
https://www.bike-components.de/de/3min19sec/Innenlager-Einpresswerkzeug-fuer-GXP-24-mm-30-mm-und-DUB-p77521/

That a good deal. You also need the Loctite and the bearing removal tool, another $40.

[jever98]

In fairness you also need a BSA cup tool and mounting paste for the threads (though many may have these already).

[carbonazza]

That a good deal. You also need the Loctite and the bearing removal tool, another $40.

Not anymore:
US $21.33  6％ Off | MUQZI Bicycle Bottom Bracket Install And Removal Tool Axle Disassembly For BB86/30/92/PF30 Mountain Bike Road Fixed Gear
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mN7lsfj

[theirishrider]

Also for the press fit you need additional tools that add about $100 compared to BSA tools.

For the Ztto thread together or Wheels MFG thread together only the included wrench (or bb cup tool) is needed.

[Colt__Seavers]

For the Ztto thread together or Wheels MFG thread together only the included wrench (or bb cup tool) is needed.

and that's what I'm going for. But I'll definitely check the BB92 tolerances on my FM936 first before pressing it in. Want to know if I have to sand some microns off and use grese or if I have to use loctite

[QuentinLL]

They promised to make a refund on the cost of painting. I am quite satisfied)

I will test a new bike, I will share my impressions later.

Hello,

Is it a fox reactik shock ? 165x40 ?
How do it perform ? Did you manage to mount the remote ?

[Bajker]

and that's what I'm going for. But I'll definitely check the BB92 tolerances on my FM936 first before pressing it in. Want to know if I have to sand some microns off and use grese or if I have to use loctite

Hmm, wouldn't the o-ring grooves that Ztto's bottom brackets have create a mechanical bond/lock when using retaining compund, just wondering if it would be a problem when removing or is the retaining compound not strong enough?

[reddi]

Hi Folks,
inspired by colt_seaver's building thread in a german forum, i spent the last days reading all 72 pages of this thread (who needs netflix? )
I like the FM936 more and more... already have a spreadsheet set up to calculate price and weight of a bike based on this frame.

I stumbled across a few comments about poor climbing performance.
I am a fast tourer and marathon rider and my current "do it all" bike is a not-so-light carbon hardtail (IP-256SL if sb knows). I really like steep uphill challenges and eating altitude meters.
Problem is, i am a total coward going downhill: The smallest feel of sliding or the rear wheel getting light leads to a complete mental blockade. To overcome that, i think about using a more down-country or even trailbike-oriented bike. As i have a very long torso for my size, most common bikes on the market would be too short for me, so the FM936 should be just right for me.
Thing is, i don't really want to sacrifice uphill performance. So hands down, how much worse is the FM936's uphill performance compared to a hardtail?
Do you think the FM936 will meet my needs, i.e. giving me a fast touring resp. marathon bike with much more downhill confidence?

Is it worth the effort (money/weight) to have a rear shock remote lockout? I like standing up in the pedals for spontaneous give-it-all sprints. The only full suspension i rode the last years was a Giant Reign 2, wich was an absolute pain in the ass in this discipline (yes, different bike category).

Also, does sb have an idea how much weight is saved by opting for SL in size XL? Can i expect 200 g?
colt_seavers had 2182 g including rear axle for a standard XL.
I try to figure out where to save the most weight for the least money. Sub 11 kg with dropper post would be nice, but budget is limited.

[ilyamaksimov]

Hi Folks,
inspired by colt_seaver's building thread in a german forum, i spent the last days reading all 72 pages of this thread (who needs netflix? )
I like the FM936 more and more... already have a spreadsheet set up to calculate price and weight of a bike based on this frame.

I stumbled across a few comments about poor climbing performance.
I am a fast tourer and marathon rider and my current "do it all" bike is a not-so-light carbon hardtail (IP-256SL if sb knows). I really like steep uphill challenges and eating altitude meters.
Problem is, i am a total coward going downhill: The smallest feel of sliding or the rear wheel getting light leads to a complete mental blockade. To overcome that, i think about using a more down-country or even trailbike-oriented bike. As i have a very long torso for my size, most common bikes on the market would be too short for me, so the FM936 should be just right for me.
Thing is, i don't really want to sacrifice uphill performance. So hands down, how much worse is the FM936's uphill performance compared to a hardtail?
Do you think the FM936 will meet my needs, i.e. giving me a fast touring resp. marathon bike with much more downhill confidence?

Is it worth the effort (money/weight) to have a rear shock remote lockout? I like standing up in the pedals for spontaneous give-it-all sprints. The only full suspension i rode the last years was a Giant Reign 2, wich was an absolute pain in the ass in this discipline (yes, different bike category).

Also, does sb have an idea how much weight is saved by opting for SL in size XL? Can i expect 200 g?
colt_seavers had 2182 g including rear axle for a standard XL.
I try to figure out where to save the most weight for the least money. Sub 11 kg with dropper post would be nice, but budget is limited.

with open compression of the fork and shock absorber is worse than a hardtail by 10-15%. For sprints, of course, you need a lock. In general, the frame rides better than a hardtail, thanks to the steep angle of the seat tube it is much easier to ride upwards, the bike is very stable and comfortable downwards. I had to readjust my inner sense of speed, the carbonda seems to be slower, but it is faster, all because it does not shake. Highly recommend the frame for XC, with remote locking it will be a beast

[helmat]

Is there a 42.5mm shock with remote lockout? I can't find one?

[lRaphl]

Is there a 42.5mm shock with remote lockout? I can't find one?

Yes, there are some. Like the RS SIDLuxe Ultimate.

https://www.sram.com/en/rockshox/models/rs-sidl-ult-a1

[helmat]

Yes, there are some. Like the RS SIDLuxe Ultimate.

https://www.sram.com/en/rockshox/models/rs-sidl-ult-a1

I've seen that one, but I've never found it available for purchase

[reddi]

with open compression of the fork and shock absorber is worse than a hardtail by 10-15%. For sprints, of course, you need a lock. In general, the frame rides better than a hardtail, thanks to the steep angle of the seat tube it is much easier to ride upwards, the bike is very stable and comfortable downwards. I had to readjust my inner sense of speed, the carbonda seems to be slower, but it is faster, all because it does not shake. Highly recommend the frame for XC, with remote locking it will be a beast

Okay, that sounds good so far!

Is there a 42.5mm shock with remote lockout? I can't find one?

I've seen that one, but I've never found it available for purchase

SIDluxe Ultimate  (just don't get confused by the sample picture)
With 40 mm you could also use a X-Fusion O2 pro RLR (i didn't find a shop for it) or a DT Swiss R 232 one.
While i'd be totally fine with a 40 mm shock , the SIDluxe perfectly matches the 120 mm SID fork i have on my list. So in case i really build up this bike, my choice is already made.

[RobertRinAustin]

Hi Folks,
inspired by colt_seaver's building thread in a german forum, i spent the last days reading all 72 pages of this thread (who needs netflix? )
I like the FM936 more and more... already have a spreadsheet set up to calculate price and weight of a bike based on this frame.

I stumbled across a few comments about poor climbing performance.
I am a fast tourer and marathon rider and my current "do it all" bike is a not-so-light carbon hardtail (IP-256SL if sb knows). I really like steep uphill challenges and eating altitude meters.
Problem is, i am a total coward going downhill: The smallest feel of sliding or the rear wheel getting light leads to a complete mental blockade. To overcome that, i think about using a more down-country or even trailbike-oriented bike. As i have a very long torso for my size, most common bikes on the market would be too short for me, so the FM936 should be just right for me.
Thing is, i don't really want to sacrifice uphill performance. So hands down, how much worse is the FM936's uphill performance compared to a hardtail?
Do you think the FM936 will meet my needs, i.e. giving me a fast touring resp. marathon bike with much more downhill confidence?

Is it worth the effort (money/weight) to have a rear shock remote lockout? I like standing up in the pedals for spontaneous give-it-all sprints. The only full suspension i rode the last years was a Giant Reign 2, wich was an absolute pain in the ass in this discipline (yes, different bike category).

Also, does sb have an idea how much weight is saved by opting for SL in size XL? Can i expect 200 g?
colt_seavers had 2182 g including rear axle for a standard XL.
I try to figure out where to save the most weight for the least money. Sub 11 kg with dropper post would be nice, but budget is limited.

A couple of answers for you in no particular order.
My current full squish (Evil Following MB) climbs better than my hard tail on 90% of the terrain I ride. Anything that isn't smooth, and the FS does better. Lots of rocky, rooty and rutted technical climbs where the FS does much better because it is so much better at maintaining tread contact. Set the suspension up correctly and I doubt you'd miss your HT on anything but the smoothest climbs.

 I have never used the lockout, even on the street or smooth fire roads. However, my XC racing buddies use remote lockouts and both swear by them.

Carbonda shows 150 g difference for the SL in size M. I doubt you'll get 200 on an XL and even if you did, you could probably save more weight spending that money elsewhere.

This bike will shock you with how much better it feels going down than the typical XC HT. The geometry gives it so much stability. It's not an enduro, but drop the seat and point it down and have fun.

Finally, you won't hit 11 kg with a dropper unless you have lots of really lite parts already, friends who will sell you really lite parts on the cheap or you spend a bunch of money. Limited budget and lite weight don't really go together. Budget Chiner lite weight wheels, tires and cassette alone will cost you about $1400, add in fork cost and you're already at $3k with the frame. Of course, if you wanted an 11 kg factory built bike with similar geometry, it would cost you much more, Transition Spur, XX1 size M, 11.2 kg, $9k. https://www.transitionbikes.com/Bikes_Spur.cfm

[Jotegr]

You can add the float DPS to that list if you are willing to have someone add the spacer for money to make it 42.5