Author Topic: internal cable routing  (Read 5659 times)

325racer

internal cable routing
« on: September 03, 2014, 09:33:06 PM »
So working on the new build and I'm debating if I should go through the exercise of drilling the frame to run the full housing, vs, running the housing to the frame and leaving the cable naked inside the frame.

I could finish it tonight if I do external only housings.  I suppose I could drill the frame, but not sure I have the right size bits.



seat_boy

Re: internal cable routing
« Reply #1 on: September 04, 2014, 05:54:46 AM »
Why not try to the regular method (not drilled) and see if that works OK? It's been fine for me so far. You can always drill in the future if you think it's needed for some reason, but you can't un-drill.
My blog, some of it about China Carbon stuff:
http://www.bikingtoplay.blogspot.com/

carbonazza

Re: internal cable routing
« Reply #2 on: September 04, 2014, 08:38:45 AM »
From your pictures, it looks the bottom bracket and headset are already mounted.

You need to remove the white hose to drill.
Loosing the guide to pass the cable through the frame.

The only option is to dismantle the BB and the headset.
As you will need to guide the hose with your fingers.

If you want to finish this evening... I'm afraid it will be a no-drill

325racer

Re: internal cable routing (update with info)
« Reply #3 on: September 04, 2014, 09:26:04 AM »
After several hours of screwing around last night I did all the drilling but ended up doing the standard method.

On the 057 the threaded BB casing has no holes to access the tubes.  I was able to slide the routing tube one way, then the other to drill out.  As others, because of the angles the drilling had to be done by hand.  The upper hole was fairly easy, but the lower hole was a major pain and had to go in about 3 inches.

From there, I then ran the wire through the guide, removed the guide and tried to run the housing up from the bottom. Im not sure what it was, but I was hitting something very solid in the chain stay that I ended up not being able to pass.  I easily spent over an hour, probably closer to 2, just going back and forth.  With the cable in, I could not get the housing in more than 3 inches.  Without the cable it would go in about 8-10 inches before I hit something solid.

When I was hitting the solid thing, it would bunch up the cable and start some kinking.

I decided before things got really messed up, I would go back to the standard mounting with housing just on the outside.

So at the end of the night 2am, I had everything mounted and adjusted with the cable routed using external only housings.

Vipassana

Re: internal cable routing
« Reply #4 on: September 04, 2014, 12:00:46 PM »
What is the advantage to drilling and running a housing the whole way? Wouldn't that be more resistance?

carbonazza

Re: internal cable routing
« Reply #5 on: September 04, 2014, 02:23:13 PM »
The frame doesn't look to be waterproof.
I plugged all holes I saw, but I still don't know where it comes from.

After each wet ride, some water and mud accumulate at the bottom.
Just above the hatch, if the cable was there as designed, it would end in that soup.

So I'm quite happy to have the cable sitting over the BB in the hose.
In addition the hose is not that long and seems to be lubricated.
Time will tell, but from now on, the shifting is very smooth.

Vipassana

Re: internal cable routing
« Reply #6 on: September 04, 2014, 04:31:09 PM »
Ah, OK.  I did not think about water.  I am in Arizona.  We don't have much water to ride through in my area.  I have only rode in the rain once in the entire past year.  We only have dust.  And that can be blown away with ease.

Carbon_Dude

Re: internal cable routing
« Reply #7 on: September 04, 2014, 08:10:40 PM »
I guess unlike the IP-256, my IP-057 was routed easily with a ferrule at each and and bare cable inside the frame.  I've ridden in muddy conditions and washed the bike several time over the last 17 months of riding and the derailleur cable works the same as day one.  The IP-057 does have a small drain hole at the lowest point near the bottom bracket.  Not to mention, the cables housings, ferrules, and rear brake line all do a pretty good job of keeping the dirt and grime out of the frame.  I haven't even bothered to close up the openings for the front derailleur cable, just hasn't been an issue so I haven't bothered.

However, for my IP-036, the I ran a full cable housing through the frame because the openings were larger, too large for a ferrule at each end, but just right for the cable housing.  Again, I have nothing blocking the front derailleur openings on this frame either.

Both bikes have shifted fine so far, no cable issues.  One thing I do use, is a cable lubricant anytime I install a cable in the bike.  I think the lubricant does a nice job of protecting the cable from corrosion and reducing friction.
2019 Stumpjumper Expert 29/27.5+
2017 Santa Cruz Stigmata
2017 Trek Stache 9.8 (29+)
2016 Specialized Stumpjumper FSR Carbon Comp 6Fattie (27.5+) (Sold)
2016 Trek Stache 9 (29+) w/upgrades (Sold)
2014 -036 Full Suspension Chiner (Sold)
2013 -057 Hardtail Carbon Chiner (Sold)
Atlanta, GA

susan

Re: internal cable routing
« Reply #8 on: October 10, 2014, 04:07:32 AM »
May be the drill frame is a good choose for some complex area.but i bought the frame is the good one that i seen.
http://www.asiancyclexpress.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/thumbnail/72x/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/0/2/029-a_1.jpg[img]