Velo Build R-099 Build

[rank1]

Did any of you guys have any issues with the top bearings sitting on the head tube during your builds? I noticed in all the videos that I saw, the top bearings was meant to be easily fitted on before the compress rings and head spaces.

I mock/dry fitted my frame today and had struggled with the top bearing, but eventually it did with some eventual force. This meant taking it off was so difficult, that I had to use a screw driver to push it out from the bottom and somehow pushed inner case with bearings out, instead of the outer casing which was still stick in the frame. Eventually with a longer screw driver, I was able to tap it out of the frame... ..

As far as I know, the top and bearings were the same size and it looks like the head tube of the frame is not as concentric as I didn't have the same issue with bottom bearings with the bottom of the head tube.

Now I have to search for another top bearing for the build to continue, so do guys have any suggestions? Thanks.

[zaphodbeeblebrox]

It was a pretty tight fit for me, but I was able to press it in with just my hands/fingers.

[rank1]

It was a pretty tight fit for me, but I was able to press it in with just my hands/fingers.

Thanks for that, maybe I'll just put some force onto it with my weak hands  :

[adriaanm]

Bearing do come in sizes that are 0.1mm different. My generic headset used 52mm bearings. The top bearing was super tight and I broke it the same way you did :-) Then I bought a Ritchey headset and the bearings were 51.8/51.9 (top/bottom). They slid right in.

[rank1]

Bearing do come in sizes that are 0.1mm different. My generic headset used 52mm bearings. The top bearing was super tight and I broke it the same way you did :-) Then I bought a Ritchey headset and the bearings were 51.8/51.9 (top/bottom). They slid right in.

So I guess I wasn't the only one that had issues with my top bearings, so I feel much better now..  . I'm guessing you have the same frame and ended up buying the new headset, were the inner and outer angles 45/45 degrees or 36/45 ?

I'm looking to buy new headset bearings from here https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32991982476.html?algo_exp_id=be3dbb5a-973b-4573-97d0-1c621e580a8e-0&algo_pvid=be3dbb5a-973b-4573-97d0-1c621e580a8e&pdp_ext_f=%7B%22sku_id%22%3A%2266880025677%22%7D&spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.7993450btvj3Pz&af=1011943&afref=&cv=47843&dp=4e67870165b5b1c932cb60b098189d7f&mall_affr=pr3&utm_campaign=1011943&utm_content=47843&utm_medium=cpa&utm_source=admitad&aff_fcid=6617341363a041c29cf8107688ac888e-1635715984986-06277-_ePNSNV&aff_fsk=_ePNSNV&aff_platform=portals-tool&sk=_ePNSNV&aff_trace_key=6617341363a041c29cf8107688ac888e-1635715984986-06277-_ePNSNV&terminal_id=0de686744d79417dba06dd96895df1f7


It seems like Options Q and R are similar to T and T1, with the width being the difference (8mm vs 7mm)..

Which would be recommended for this frame? The Q and R or the Ts or even the U?  Too many choices that are slightly different. 

[adriaanm]

Sorry, I was talking about a different frame (CFR-707). It's just that I had the same issue, so I thought I'd mention the 51.8/51.9/52.00mm bearing sizes (I first thought that my frame was out of spec, but I decided the generic bearings were not suitable).

[rank1]

Ahhh fair enough, thanks for the clarification.

[Ogi22]

How did u routing cables into the handlebar. Maybe the cables pushing the handlebar in one direction?

[rank1]

After finally getting everything together, the semi-circle crown race thing that keeps the steerer tube centered seems to have popped off. Another problem with the handlebars is because of the tiny opening the housing comes out at an inconvenient angle and it's incredibly difficult to get the cables going to the right places in the headtube, and to get that crown race pressed down.

Also the headset compression plug they sent was cross threaded and doesn't work correctly. Luckily I had a leftover one I didn't use from my earlier builds.

Do you have any tips for getting that compression ring pressed down? Getting all the cables to align to fit in that tiny section has been an on going challenge for me, which I have given up for now... Still trying to figure out what the best way as I had so much troubles with it.

I initially had the HB011 bars and headset installed, but when I was turning left, there would be a "click" sound coming from the headset, which I believe was the either the front brake / front derailluer cables was hitting the inside of the frame.

It's been fun and challenging at times..

[Velovelo]

Hi all. Just want to add as a note for anyone looking to get the vb-r-099 frame set. Make sure to put the seatpost setback into account when measuring the top tube / reach.
This also goes for any frame with a seat post that is proprietary to the frameset.

[zaphodbeeblebrox]

Do you have any tips for getting that compression ring pressed down? Getting all the cables to align to fit in that tiny section has been an on going challenge for me, which I have given up for now... Still trying to figure out what the best way as I had so much troubles with it.

I initially had the HB011 bars and headset installed, but when I was turning left, there would be a "click" sound coming from the headset, which I believe was the either the front brake / front derailluer cables was hitting the inside of the frame.

It's been fun and challenging at times..

Sorry late reply, hopefully you got it by now anyways. I ended up using zip ties to to squish all the cables together as close as possible. Then squish them into the compression ring opening, and squish down the ring, while snipping the ties off as I got lower. Worked perfectly for me, although I had to do it twice. After the first time it popped out again, and I discovered the compression ring isn't tall enough for the headset cover to push down on it with sufficient force. So I ended up using a mtb bottom bracket ring spacer, with a cut in it so I could get it around the steerer tube. Then squished everything down again and it's been solid ever since. The spacer is about a .5 to 1mm too tall, but it was all I had and the gap isn't noticeable.

Velovelo has a good point too, I did not consider it haha. My handlebar size is a little too long for me because of it even with the seat slammed forward. If the handlebar routing wasn't so annoying I'd probably get a new one, but not worth it for now.

[Velovelo]

Ya, my 099 / TT-X21 seat post setback is so backward that my knees does not track with the center of my pedals at 3 O'clock pedal position. Not to mention the fact that the seat post setback makes me stretch too far forward to reach my handlebars. This was an expensive oversight when measuring the top tube and reach based on my previous road bike frame which had a zero setback seat post. Not to mention that these frames have no resale value because they are none branded. You just have to get a new frameset.
TanTan and Velobuild do not have zero setback seat post for this frame or any of their frames with a proprietary seat post.
So I am looking at getting the BXT-ROAD-115 or VB-R-177 because you can run a standard 27.2 seat post with a zero setback if you want.

[rank1]

Sorry late reply, hopefully you got it by now anyways. I ended up using zip ties to to squish all the cables together as close as possible. Then squish them into the compression ring opening, and squish down the ring, while snipping the ties off as I got lower. Worked perfectly for me, although I had to do it twice. After the first time it popped out again, and I discovered the compression ring isn't tall enough for the headset cover to push down on it with sufficient force. So I ended up using a mtb bottom bracket ring spacer, with a cut in it so I could get it around the steerer tube. Then squished everything down again and it's been solid ever since. The spacer is about a .5 to 1mm too tall, but it was all I had and the gap isn't noticeable.

Velovelo has a good point too, I did not consider it haha. My handlebar size is a little too long for me because of it even with the seat slammed forward. If the handlebar routing wasn't so annoying I'd probably get a new one, but not worth it for now.

Thanks zaphodbeeblebrox..  I was able to get around the compression ring and just had to be patient and use a bit of strength on the fingers to push it down to sit it properly when the cables are aligned.. I do wonder why they provided that compression ring and not another type as it's so finnicky and a pain in the ass..!

On another note,

Has anyone used a different headset for the VB-099 on the frame and would recommend one?

Also, does anyone have the torque values for:
1. The compression plug for the headset that came with HB-011 bars?
2. The two bolts for the HB-011 bars http://www.velobuild.com/products/carbon-fiber-road-bike-integrated-handlebar-with-spacers-for-hidden-cables-routing-300?

I have looked on the packaging that was sent out, along with compression plug and bars and there are no torque values stated on the product. TIA!

[FHS]

I use the FSA ACR headset. The stock headset cover works fine with it.

[rank1]

I use the FSA ACR headset. The stock headset cover works fine with it.

Just confirming that this is the FSA ACR Headset you are referring to https://shop.fullspeedahead.com/en/headsets/road-mtb/no-55r-1-5-acr  ?

Also, do you happen to know the torque value in the attached image? I have sent an email to Velobuild and have yet to receive a response....