FM1001 / FM1156 - 135mm frame

[jever98]

Thanks, make a lot of sense.

Sidebar: I enjoy enduro-mtb as a mag - nice pictures, etc. But boy, do they over-focus on little details and cut short the discussion on more substantive topics. Like that they find the handlebar too wide (cut it down, that's personal preference), or their always recurring point on casings...

[Neb]

Interesting, thanks for sharing.

Isn't the support of the suspension a lot related to the shock tune? If I recall correctly, the FM1001 doesn't have an unusual leverage curve?

I found the megneg on the rockshox deluxe made a huge difference. It naturally makes the shock more progressive and gives much more mid stroke support. Surprised that they didn't include this as stock on these bikes

[helmat]

I found the megneg on the rockshox deluxe made a huge difference. It naturally makes the shock more progressive and gives much more mid stroke support. Surprised that they didn't include this as stock on these bikes

The 2023+ Deluxe and Super Deluxe shocks don't use the old Megneg air can. You now have the choice of a linear or a progressive air can and the Detrail uses the progressive one.
I now got myself a new Super Deluxe with the progressive air can and Hydraulic Bottom Out, mainly because I wanted the separate HSC and LSC adjustments also thinking about getting it custom tuned for the 1001. I'll write something about it when I got some rides on it.

[jever98]

By luck, I seem to have hit it well then with the R232 shock from DT Swiss, which they say has a progressive curve.

[filipes]

By luck, I seem to have hit it well then with the R232 shock from DT Swiss, which they say has a progressive curve.

But damper on R232 is probably too simple for this kind of bike, no?

[filipes]

The 2023+ Deluxe and Super Deluxe shocks don't use the old Megneg air can. You now have the choice of a linear or a progressive air can and the Detrail uses the progressive one.
I now got myself a new Super Deluxe with the progressive air can and Hydraulic Bottom Out, mainly because I wanted the separate HSC and LSC adjustments also thinking about getting it custom tuned for the 1001. I'll write something about it when I got some rides on it.

Waiting for you feedback on this.
I saw small air can as aftermarket component, but never a Super Deluxe with small can out-of-the box. However, this is on of most promising shock without the need to modify it.

[jever98]

But damper on R232 is probably too simple for this kind of bike, no?

Nor sure, why? My wife is 57kg ang not super aggressive.

[helmat]

Waiting for you feedback on this.
I saw small air can as aftermarket component, but never a Super Deluxe with small can out-of-the box. However, this is on of most promising shock without the need to modify it.

I don't think it's available to buy with the progressive air can. You have to purchase the shock with the linear air can and buy the progressive air can and install it yourself (very easy btw)

[edo_mtb]

Hi everyone! I have a request that is different from the last topic you were talking about.

I’m planning to buy this frame and I’d like to paint it myself.
So I have few questions for you all.
I read in another thread that Carbonda gives you two options for my case:
- a raw frame that you have to sand it and patch it yourself
- a frame that has been sanded, patched and painted with a black matte paint, that I would have to sand it again to be painted by me.

So what does it mean that you have to patch it? You don’t usually patch a broken frame?
What is the best less work/better result option between these two in your opinion?

Thank you very much!!

[japjoe7]

Hi everyone! I have a request that is different from the last topic you were talking about.

I’m planning to buy this frame and I’d like to paint it myself.
So I have few questions for you all.
I read in another thread that Carbonda gives you two options for my case:
- a raw frame that you have to sand it and patch it yourself
- a frame that has been sanded, patched and painted with a black matte paint, that I would have to sand it again to be painted by me.

So what does it mean that you have to patch it? You don’t usually patch a broken frame?
What is the best less work/better result option between these two in your opinion?

Thank you very much!!

Get the primed one not the raw frame. Primed and patched just means they smoothed out the surface to prep for paint. Raw would mean you need to smooth out and prime the surface yourself.

[TidyDinosaur]

Get the primed one not the raw frame. Primed and patched just means they smoothed out the surface to prep for paint. Raw would mean you need to smooth out and prime the surface yourself.

You can probably skip primer with the black frame, so even if that frame would be more expensive you would save on cans of paint (and 2K paint in cans is not cheap). You would only need to roughen the paint and you can apply basecoat.
Depending on what your goal is with painting it yourself, you might want to reconsider and let them do it. Prices for painting in china are unbeatable. If you count the price of 2K paint cans you will not be far from that amount.

[jever98]

+1 on the suggestion to have it painted by Carbonda. I have had good experience with it. The color scheme I had them do wasn't super simple, and cost $245 ($155 painting, $90 for decals). If you want to see the design, it's further up the thread

[edo_mtb]

Thank you!!

[Confused]

Does anyone know if the Carbonda FM1001 and the Ican P13 have any differences - i.e. quality of bearings/layup of fiber? They seem to be the same mold from Flybike. From recent quotes the Ican frame + shipping is $120 cheaper than Carbonda.

[FullCarbonAlchemist]

Does anyone know if the Carbonda FM1001 and the Ican P13 have any differences - i.e. quality of bearings/layup of fiber? They seem to be the same mold from Flybike. From recent quotes the Ican frame + shipping is $120 cheaper than Carbonda.

Generally speaking, when Ican sells a Carbonda frame, it’s coming from the same Flybike factory and should be identical.