The Shiny New AM831 Group Buy (A) Thread!

[zilcho]

Has anyone asked for the design specification of the linkage bolts and measured what was delivered? Some of the early FM936 frames had a lower linkage bolt that was out of spec, but saw or file down to the design spec and the issues were fixed.

[Eddy-haideli]

Thanks for all your guys  of the feedback.

Now the mold have been a little adjustment for the flex of the rear triangle.
We would checking all the suggestion in the forum.

Many thanks.

[darius72]

Eddy, can you tell us which checks and eventual retrofit we can do to existing frames to correct (potential) flex problem?Are spare bolts available for purchase?

[FlaMtnBkr]

I have a lot of flexing and the drive side has some play that you can see move when pulling in the rear triangle. There is also some clicking noise as the bearing has extra play.

Is this when pulling sideways on the rear end in relation to the upper linkage? Like wrap your fingers around the upper seat stay and put thumb on linkage and pull sideways. If so, this is what I experienced and is caused by the bolt head pocket being too deep and there being space between the bolt head and rear end when the bolt is completely tightened, to there can be flex until there is contact with the bolt head. This is where a spacer or washer under the bolt to fill the space and let the bolt properly tighten the rear end to the linkage. I made one out of a stiff plastic bottle and used heavy scissors to cut out, which was far from perfect looking but made everything tight and I will see how it holds up.

I'm not sure how adding a spacer would further reduce flex if the bolt already properly tightens everything. But I plan on trying to see if it makes a difference. As of now pulling sideways with my hands I don't notice any flex in relation to the linkages and front end. Pulling on the wheel does appear to cause flex but I built the wheels and still need to go over it with a tensionometer as it's been a few years since building them, but based on feel and plucking spokes it should be fully tensioned but I want to double check.

[Eddy-haideli]

Eddy, can you tell us which checks and eventual retrofit we can do to existing frames to correct (potential) flex problem?Are spare bolts available for purchase?

Show me by email which bolts you would be need, yes, we would offer it.

Eddy@haidelibicycle.com

[StefanB]

Slowly building the bike. Going for 165 mm cranks with Wolftooth 30 oval chainring.

All cables routed and this was easier than expected. Having a little problem with the rubber suppurting the cables in the holes. Any tips or is it smooth violence that is the solution?

The dropper is a 150 mm Crankbrothers and the brakes Magura 4-piston.

[cybrsrce]

Slowly building the bike. Going for 165 mm cranks with Wolftooth 30 oval chainring.

I went with a 30t oval and 165mm cranks as well, it is an excellent pedal platform.  I just ordered crank boots even though I already have some strike rash on them.  I originally thought the BB was going to be too high...

All cables routed and this was easier than expected. Having a little problem with the rubber suppurting the cables in the holes. Any tips or is it smooth violence that is the solution?

I had to use pics and a small flat head screwdriver to get it in place.  It took a little work but I definitely made threats of violence during the process I was lucky to only need to do it with the brake hose.

[darius72]

Slowly building the bike. Going for 165 mm cranks with Wolftooth 30 oval chainring.

All cables routed and this was easier than expected. Having a little problem with the rubber suppurting the cables in the holes. Any tips or is it smooth violence that is the solution?

The dropper is a 150 mm Crankbrothers and the brakes Magura 4-piston.

Had same (small) problem with the hose rubbers; if they don't want to go in place you can make them softer using an hairdrier.
Concerning  cranks I used 175 mm as I this is the size in all my bikes and to get good pedaling efficency;  the BB is quite low and the risk of pedal strikes is there, but I don't think 1 cm less makes a big difference, for sure some difference.
Which frame protector are you using? I've ordered aliexpress orange kydex but I am sure it is a different orange; plan B is to buy and cut some transparent large diameter water hose and stick it down there.

[slo]

Is this when pulling sideways on the rear end in relation to the upper linkage? Like wrap your fingers around the upper seat stay and put thumb on linkage and pull sideways.

Yes, exactly. It is like the bolt is too long. I need to take measurements and will contact Eddy for a shorter bolt.

[emu26]

Had same (small) problem with the hose rubbers; if they don't want to go in place you can make them softer using an hairdrier.
Concerning  cranks I used 175 mm as I this is the size in all my bikes and to get good pedaling efficency;  the BB is quite low and the risk of pedal strikes is there, but I don't think 1 cm less makes a big difference, for sure some difference.
Which frame protector are you using? I've ordered aliexpress orange kydex but I am sure it is a different orange; plan B is to buy and cut some transparent large diameter water hose and stick it down there.

1mm is enough to make a difference between hitting or missing, 1cm is 10 times that. 

Just saying as someone that has gone from 27.5+ to 29ers because of the pedal strike on an FM10. Normally ride 175mm, went to 170mm and sill got them enough to warrant the change (and also allow me to get back to 175mm cranks)

[Eddy-haideli]

Now these chameleon color also available.

Thanks

Eddy@haidelibicycle.com

[darius72]

I haven't tried pedaling 165 mm, I don't know how much worse is uphille and better dowhill in avoiding strikes: bb height of 831 is 344 mm, so means 159 mm clearance with 175 mm cranks and 10 mm sag; using 165 mm cranks will increase it to 169 mm, that is just 7% higher / better.
In my opinion working on suspension sag and hydraulics is the first move to limit dive and then the risk of strikes, but the low BB is part of the so called modern geometry, giving low center of gravity and then of course more stability; I admit I was tempted by 170 mm cranks  (santa cruz hightower uses 170 mm), but I never considered 165 mm.
Just a note: the frame is new and we are like beta testers, but the communication with Haideli (Eddy & Joy) so far is excellent, so this is for sure an added value in the choice of buying one frame rather than the other; a lot of aliexpress or chinese companies are just resellers and don't have any technical support.

[zorinena]

I am building this frame with  27.5 wheels. Does someone know what offset for the fork we should get.. Is it 44 as in the 29" wheels ?

[cybrsrce]

I haven't tried pedaling 165 mm, I don't know how much worse is uphille and better dowhill in avoiding strikes: bb height of 831 is 344 mm, so means 159 mm clearance with 175 mm cranks and 10 mm sag; using 165 mm cranks will increase it to 169 mm, that is just 7% higher / better.
In my opinion working on suspension sag and hydraulics is the first move to limit dive and then the risk of strikes, but the low BB is part of the so called modern geometry, giving low center of gravity and then of course more stability; I admit I was tempted by 170 mm cranks  (santa cruz hightower uses 170 mm), but I never considered 165 mm.
Just a note: the frame is new and we are like beta testers, but the communication with Haideli (Eddy & Joy) so far is excellent, so this is for sure an added value in the choice of buying one frame rather than the other; a lot of aliexpress or chinese companies are just resellers and don't have any technical support.

You are spot on with your measurements. I'm sitting at ~166mm (sagged) at the lowest point of the crank arms - but I still get crank strikes even if I skip the aptly named "boulder trail".  All depends on terrain.  It is an unnecessary amount of clearance for flow trails and bike parks, for tech trails/climbs I could use another 20mm.

[scourge]

Some great looking new colors, eddy