The Shiny New AM831 Group Buy (A) Thread!

[FullCarbonAlchemist]

If access to the piggyback air pressure port is a problem on the existing Topaz (and looking at the one I have on my Force, I think it probably will be a problem on an 831; most shock pump attachment ends are quite long) it will probably be an issue on the Suntour TriAir too — the IFP piggyback is a little longer but fills the same basic way.

[threeathan]

I am buying a dvo topaz t3 from a guy who took it off his ibis, just fully serviced as well. Accessing the pump valve doesn't really bother me as I like to adjust the shock once and leave it as is haha..

[FullCarbonAlchemist]

I am buying a dvo topaz t3 from a guy who took it off his ibis, just fully serviced as well. Accessing the pump valve doesn't really bother me as I like to adjust the shock once and leave it as is haha..

The problem with that is that the bladders are known to lose air slowly over time so you have to top them off every few rides, or at least once or twice a month, just to be sure.

But if you’re able to figure out a solution we’d be very interested to hear about it. Right now my next best alternative is either an unknown tune Super Deluxe Select+ off Ali for $422, a 2018 Bronson tuned (Low damping) 210x55 Super Deluxe Ultimate for about $600, or a stock Medium tune Fox Float X for $520 (Performance Elite)-$600 (Factory). Not really sure where to get a custom tuned Fox shock out of the box these days, and it’s hard to find even the default tune 210x55 in stock right now.

I’m looking for something to pair with a Marzocchi Z1 most likely, and want a piggyback with a good damper (so no RS Select or Fox Performance stuff, only Select+/Performance Elite or better) but I’m trying to keep this build under $4000 without cutting too many corners….so being able to use any old 210x55 Topaz would be nicer than any of the other options I see so far. Who knows when the second generation T3 will be available.

[darius72]

One question for those who completed their builds already.. what crankset and chainring options did you guys go for? I read earlier in the thread that there is very little tolerance for the chainring before it rubs the frame, do we need to go for boost cranksets or do you think the regular cranksets will work? What chainline do you recommend going for shimano cranks

I am using 34T chainring, I regret I didn't put 32T as the 34x10 is useless on this bike; no clearance problem with my aftermarket chainring; the original shimano XT-SLX (no matter which size) has only 0.3 mm clearance to the frame due to inner bolts; the aftermarket normally has no bolts, it is slim and the clearanche maybe 2-3 mm.

[Snacks]

I went with a 34t chainring too and regret it. I wanted more downhill speed but hills are tough now haha just ordered a 30t oval to try out

Yea, I believe the newer style direct mount cranks fit with more clearance than the ones with chainring bolts

[cybrsrce]

I am using 34T chainring, I regret I didn't put 32T as the 34x10 is useless on this bike; no clearance problem with my aftermarket chainring; the original shimano XT-SLX (no matter which size) has only 0.3 mm clearance to the frame due to inner bolts; the aftermarket normally has no bolts, it is slim and the clearanche maybe 2-3 mm.

Bolts? Is that an older generation of the crankset?  I have SLX M7120 on another bike and the only chainring options were direct monut at the time.  Either way 2-3mm is still really tight, I have 8mm give or take.

What chainline do you recommend going for shimano cranks

Boost (Shimano 55mm) because it is an aggressive trail bike, don't worry about chain line when you'll rarely be in the optimum gear(s) for it. 

[darius72]

Shimano chainring is direct mount but it still has some kinds of micro bolts on inner face that have reduced clearance to the frame;the aftermarket chainring hasn't these bolts.
I am ok with 34x51 uphill, I don't need easier gear ratio, but still 34x10 is useless to me, better 32t or even 30t

[scourge]

I used a cheap set of cranks from China and had to hacksaw off the bolt mounts because they were hitting the rear triangle. Works now, though.

[StefanB]

Found a video where the frame is tested

[zilcho]

Found a video where the frame is tested

Interesting. The lateral testing around 20sec doesn't seem to have any slop or play in the rear triangle that some users are having.

[cybrsrce]

Interesting. The lateral testing around 20sec doesn't seem to have any slop or play in the rear triangle that some users are having.

That is because the problem isn't planing, it is really good at transferring power without twisting the frame when putting power down.  The problem is torsional flex of the seat stays when you're trying to push into a berm.  If they used that same rig connected to the rear axle it would look like the wheel path is moving 10mm+ left or right - of my frame anyway.

[Maffly]

Cybrsrce is correct. I would add that unless they changed the layup of the rear triangle to have the upper bearings pressed in from the outside or added bushings to the outside of the upper link, everyone will eventually have this problem.  Does seem correctable with some work (see cybrsrce thread) but durability is yet to be determined.

[emu26]

Interesting. The lateral testing around 20sec doesn't seem to have any slop or play in the rear triangle that some users are having.

That is because the problem isn't planing, it is really good at transferring power without twisting the frame when putting power down.  The problem is torsional flex of the seat stays when you're trying to push into a berm.  If they used that same rig connected to the rear axle it would look like the wheel path is moving 10mm+ left or right - of my frame anyway.

It is also probably because that jig on the rear axle is free to pivot side to side. I dare say if it were held rigid like the headtube jig is you would get the flexing that is being reported.

[sips56]

Can anyone tell me where these parts are used on the bike?  My frame came disassembled from Eddy because it was raw and needed paint, so not sure what these bits are for?

Thanks,
Luke

[jonnybearback]

I don't have this frame but these Look like main pivot bearing preload spacer sleeve and the spacers that go between the mainnpoivot bearings inner races and the linkage.

The sleeve sits inside the frame between the pressed in bearings.