Lexon "Riot 10"

[uraberg]

Cheers.

To the people who've build one, is shock mount hardware included? (two bolts for trunnion side, and the shaft mount bolt)?

Is the 41.4mm wide bushing the one I need to mount the shaft side?

Thanks.

[RongGearRob]

My Lexon Riot arrived yesterday from Everjoy Industries, just under 6 weeks from order date, which is not too bad in the current shipping environment.  Observations from my quick overview:

Packaging overall was excellent, the box was branded Lexon and it did have a cave in on one side.  The frame itself was wrapped with multiple layers of bubble wrap and additional cardboard protection inside - so no damage to the frame. 

Overall the frame looks great, I went with the matte black instead of the various other color options. With the matte black, there are no identifying logos or names on the frame (No Riot or Lexon or anything, I couldn't even locate a serial #).

The paint job is good, there are a couple blemishes (a light scratch on the seat tube near the shock and 3 tiny chips on the headtube), but nothing to be concerned with and I'll probably try to hide with a dab from a Sharpie.

The RS Monarch RL shock was pre-installed on the frame, if you go the that route.

The headset, thru axle, BB, chain stay and seat stay protectors were all included in a separate package (along with the extra hanger I requested).  The seat post clamp and hanger were mounted on the frame.

The components for the build:
As mentioned from my earlier post, I plan on carrying over some components from Specialized Crave:
-Reba fork, going to upgrade the shaft so I can run it at 120mm vs the 100mm (trying to decide wether to upgrade the damper to the charger or not - kind of expensive and not sure it is worth it - Please post if you have any experience with the charger damper or considered it as well).
-Shimano brakes and rotors - they work fine and brakes are almost impossible to get right now or really expensive.
-Fizik saddle.
-Sram GX 11 Spd cassette, derailleur and shifter.
-Pedals - I ride XC, but I prefer flats.
-Wheelset - for now I'll run a DT Swiss M1900 rear and Mavic Crossmax on the front (long story but I'm waiting on warranty Crossmax wheelset from Mavic).
-Wolftooth dropper lever.

New components:
-Nukeproof Horizon carbon bar - deal was too good to pass up.
-50mm Ragley Stubbing stem - will see how this feels, I might go back to the 70mm stem from the Crave or try a 60mm.
-New GX cranks dub - I purchased awhile ago and they were just sitting there in the spare parts bin.
-PNW Loam dropper post 150mm.
-ODI grips - thought about trying the PNW grips, but I'm used to the ODI's

Finally, I plan on wrapping the frame with Ride Wrap.

Excited to start the build.

[Alpaca]

Can anyone who owns one of the Lexon frames write a review???  Let us know if any issue came up during the build of afterwords??    Experience while riding    compare to other name brands??
Thanks!!

[Caseven]

My Lexon Riot Under $2000 youtu.be/RZS0W_t3aHg

[marq3z]

hi all!! i just purchase one on 11.11 and still waiting. it's on kazagistan at now. may be a chrismast gift!!
i take the black mate one with dnm shock at same price than a painted one without shock.

my idea is to paint it on blue colour, when i have all pieces i will share it on a photo!!!

[FullCarbonAlchemist]

As mentioned from my earlier post, I plan on carrying over some components from Specialized Crave:
-Reba fork, going to upgrade the shaft so I can run it at 120mm vs the 100mm (trying to decide wether to upgrade the damper to the charger or not - kind of expensive and not sure it is worth it - Please post if you have any experience with the charger damper or considered it as well).

SRAM is so weird about this — the names have always been confusing but particularly so now, where they’re called “Charger 2” (basic but decent IFP damper, known for not being very supportive) and “Charger 2.1,” their bladder damper which offers much more support while being even more plush than the IFP for the usual reasons.

If your fork can take a bladder damper upgrade, they are 100% always better than IFPs. Usually by a lot.

[freeride1]

well, I'm about to start my build and found that swingarm wasn't nice and smooth through its travel, so went down to check for the problem...
I've found it in the bearings of linkage, 3 out of 4 was badly pressed-in, causing a notchy travel.
Ordered 4 sealed SKF, code if someone is interested is "698 2RS"
Pay attention to yours!

[RongGearRob]

Hmmm, I didn't think to check the swingarm movement or bearings upon receipt of the frame, I just visually looked it over.  I'll remove my shock and check it out. I cannot stress enough how much I am learning doing this bike build, this is both my first build and my first full suspension bike.  I started my build a couple weeks ago, installing the Ride Wrap "Covered" kit.  The covered kit fits the frame very well, I didn't have to cut any of it down to fit, the installation is time consuming though. 

I spent this week working on the headset install and RS Reba fork, I increased the travel from 100 to 120mm and installed the Charger 2 damper (didn't get the 2.1 damper), hopefully I'll never know the difference between the 2 versions   Fortunately my steerer tube is a good length so I don't have to cut or replace the star nut, I just need some different sized spacers.

A headset a press is needed to insert the cups into the headset - I tried building a DIY press but it just wasn't robust enough to do the job so I purchased a press off of Amazon for $70 that was more than enough to get the job done.   
 

[freeride1]

Maybe I'm unlucky with mine
I usually " play" with frames before assembling and for sure I've learned to double check for thread retainer after I had lost one bolt of my Rocky Mountain Altitude (spare was a 150€ kit  )
No-brand frames sometimes come with rubbish bearings, so I think a check is a good starting point; Lexon ones seem nice in quality, no axial play and smooth, but you can damage an SKF too if bad pressed-in.
By the way, next week fork, shock and derailleur will arrive, so sunday could be maiden day!

[freeride1]

I don't know how many Riot owner have disassembled frame to inspect it, so I'd like to share this with you; in my opinion this confirm good overall quality of the frame.

Swingarm's seatstays have 2 grooves to accomodate in perfect alignment the metal threaded block.

[saintrider]

I Personally completely stripped down my Lexon Frame (a Titan Race/Myst aka FM258 model) before doing my custom paintjob (sanded to the bare carbon) so i can confirm the quality of both the Frame (What lies beneath) and Bearings. Mine was matte black....and had 3 Layers (White Primer | Black Paint and Matte Clearcoat)...

My built bike is almost 2000km and counting...

Im completely sold to chinese frames.....already working on my next Gravel Project.

[freeride1]

another nice feature, usually found on high-end frames, is guided cables in the swingarm.
As usual, I insert a piece of pipe insulator to avoid any noise or cable rattling inside downtube

[RongGearRob]

I removed my shock and the rear triangle movement is fine, good advice to check all of the bearings and threadlock on the bolts.  My frame did not come with guides for the internal routing, but it was relatively painless to route RD cable, rear brake hose and dropper cable.   

Now I'm thinking about upgrading my SRAM GX 11 Spd 10x42 to either a Garbaruk (10x46 or 10x50) or E*13 9x46 11 speed cassette to get a little more range. I'm running a 32T chainring up front and mostly ride classic mid-Atlantic XC single track with punchy climbs and lots of flow. Please let me know if you have any experience with either of these cassettes, the SRAM GX has been great but it is getting old so a replacement will be needed in the not so distant future.

[freeride1]

About gearing, I'm not a fan of 12speed so until I can get them, 11 is what I use.
I had and will be also on the Riot, a 11/46 from ZTTO (Aliexpress) @ 370grams, shift through gears is very good as on Sram products
Usually I go with a 34 oval chainring
I don't like anything over 46 cassette, but 9 as smallest cog is interesting, especially if you go with a 32 chainring

[Zomb1e]

good advice to check all of the bearings

And it also good advice to put each removed bearing on some shaft, install this shaft into cordless screwdriver or drill or whatever you have, and rotate for a few second. Bearings normally are filled with grease to not more than 30% and in production process grease applied locally, so some balls inside the bearing are not covered with grease. And as bearings in suspension pivots never get even one full turn, rotating them before assembling helps to spread the grease inside them.