Chinese Carbon MTB > 26er & 27.5 (650b)
ICAN P1 Trail-27.5'' (Chinese Carbon) 2021 Frame Build!
Crankydad:
Hello!
I wanted to share my experience with building up an Ican P1 Frame with my fellow MTBs. For those who are thinking about buying an Ican P1 frame and want to know the ins and outs of the building process and road bumbs along the way. I've done a lot of reading on mtbr and Chinertown threads, and very few posts about the P1 frame. There's some posts about the P8 frame about 3-4 years ago (2017-2018). Ican from what I read changed the name of that frame from P8 to P1 probably around 2019 from a post that emu26 posted on Chinertown titled "P8 Geometry Change: Now known as P1."
This is my first build so I'm super excited to build it up! I ordered my frame in March 2021 and received it finally in June 2021. Been ordering parts along the way, and have everything together
This is what I have:
Frame- Ican P1 (2021)
Fork- DVO Diamond D1 (27.5)
Rear Shock- TBD
Drivetrain Shimano XT (2021):
Bottom Bracket- BBMT-8000 (68/73mm)
Chainring- XT 34T
Crankarms- XT M8120 (Boost 148mm rear spacing)- 170mm
Chain- XT M8100 w/ QL 12-speed
Cassette- XT M8100 10x51
Rear Derailleur- XT M8100 (1x12)
Shifter- M8100 Shifter I-spec (right rear)
Brakes (Front and Rear)- XT M8120 (4 piston brakes)
Rotor (Front and Rear)- XTM800- 180mm
Dropper Post- Crank Brothers Highline 7 (2020)
Dropper Remote- One Up (I-spec EV)
Wheelset- XT M8000 (27.5)
Tire (front)- Maxxis Minion DHR II (27.5 x 2.30)
Tire (rear)- Maxxis Aggressor (27.5 x 2.30)
Stem- E-Thirteen Base 35 stem (50mm)
Handlebar- E-Thirteen Plus Handlebar
Grips- Ergon Ge-1 (Blue)
Seat- Charge Spoon Seat
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$5,000- Total cost of all parts (including some bike building tools)
I bought 90% of parts brand new, the other parts I bought used from Pinkbike
Why I selected the Ican P1:
1) Great reviews about it on forums and Youtube (Brad of Crown Performance Bicycles does great video reviews on Youtube of the Ican P9)
2) The frame can be used a 29'er and 27.5 (I liked the versatility of that)
3) Reasonable priced- I paid about $900 out the door (after taxes and delivery)
I will let you all the challenges I've had as well along the way. Will keep posted with photos and commentary
Will continue to update my build! Stay tuned!
Cheers,
Crankydad
Crankydad:
New update!
Lesson Learned #1- Confirm with bike frame manufacturer that rear shock frame mount will accept shock with a piggyback reservoir
As you can see in the front triangle (picture shown is when rear triangle is locked-out (not-compressed), if you were to put a rear shock with a piggyback reservoir, the rear shock (piggyback reservoir part) will make contact with the downtube at compression. You can already notice when shock is uncompressed, it's already in a diagonal position
I bought the DVO Topaz T3 (200x57 or 7.875''x2.25''), and it definitely did not fit and I went to LBS to confirm if won't work. They confirmed that yes only single reservoir rear shock would work
I ended of purchasing the Rockshox Monarch T3 (200x57) which I'm still waiting on receiving. Will update on how it goes
Lesson Learned #2- Do more research on modern/current rear shock sizing. 200x51mm or 200x57mm are traditional (out-dated) rear shock size measurements. From research I've done, the majority of major mountain bike manufacturers (Fox, DVO, Rockshox, Marzocchi, etc) are moving towards "metric" size measurements since 2016.
Lesson Learned #3- If I were to do it all over again, I would definitely have purchased the Ican P9 "Enduro" frame. It's accepts metric rear shock size of 210x55. So in the future if I wanted to upgrade rear shock, I would have more options available
-Crankydad
Crankydad:
Photos from Session #2 (July 7th 2021)
Steps I did for this session:
1. Measured and cut steering tube of fork (make sure to place stem, crownfork race, headset, and all spacers/bearings and mark cut on top of steerer tube. Cut 2-3mm below that line to have room for stem cap and bolt or extra 2mm spacer )
2. Installed star nut into steerer tube and crown fork race
3. Installed fork onto frame with headset, bearings, spacers, and stem
4. Measured and cut handlebar to my preferred length (780mm)
5. Installed handlebars on the frame
Some tools that were super useful to me during this stage of building:
1. Pipe Cutter (plumbing tool)- for cutting steerer tube of fork and also handlebars
2. Reamer for Pipe/Tube- to smoothen the edges of the steerer tube and handlebars after cut
3. PVC Pipe (1 1/2'' Diameter)- to pound crown fork race into bottom of steerer tube
4. Star Nut Setter Tool- To set star nut into the steerer tube
Crankydad:
Photos from session #3 (July 8th 2021)
Steps I did for this session:
1. Routed dropper post cable and housing internally from seat tube through downtube
2. Installed left brake lever, then installed dropper post remote onto left brake lever clamp (I-Spec EV)
3. Installed right brake lever, then installed rear shifter lever onto right brake lever clamp (I-Spec EV)
4. Installed grips to get correct positioning of brake lever clamping
5. Installed front bake caliper onto fork with Shimano F180P/P2 adapter (since I'll have 180mm rotors)- Confirm with fork manufacturer not already designed for 180mm rotor
6. Install rear brake caliper onto rear triangle of frame with Shimano F180P/P2 adapter (since I'll have 180mm rotor in back)- Ican P1 frame designed for 160mm rotor in rear
Tools helpful:
1. Housing dampening foam (for internal routing)- I heard other people say cable rattle loudly during rough terrain on trails
2. Pre-routed plastic with masking tape ends come stock with the Ican P1 frame (so all you need to do is tape housing to plastic and push and pool through frame. Or if routing cable first then housing, you can just insert cable into the pre-routed plastic
Lesson Learned #4- Budget extra time for routing cables internally!- I imagined this only taking 1 hour tops, this took me 4 hours at least!
- Also, the pre-routed plastic were routed in a way that didn't match my setup. My setup was:
i. Left brake lever and dropper post remote on Left of handlebar
ii. Right brake lever and shifter lever on Right of handlebar
I wanted the rear brake and right shifter cables to through from the left side holes of top of downtube then cross to the right side to handlebar. Ican had the prerouted plastic for rear shift cable coming from right side of holes on top of downtube. The same for the rear brake hose (on the right side holes of top of downtube)
The pre-routed plastic for the dropper post was coming from the left side holes of top of downtube. I wanted it to come from the right side holes of downtube and then cross to Left side of handlebar
Something to note!
-Crankydad
Crankydad:
Photos from session #4 & #5 (July 12th & 13th 2021)
Steps I did for this session:
1. Install tubeless tires on both rims
Tools helpful:
1. Soapy water
2. Air compressor
3. Sealant injector (syringe)
4. Valve core remover
5. Tire sealant
I was successful in mounting the tubeless tires to the rim! It took me about 20 minutes for each tire to mount on the wheel. I was very satisfied. This compared to routing the cables and brakes hoses to frame, which tooook so long
Lesson Learned #5- Make sure to confirm your tire/wheel is tubeless compatible. I tried mounting a non-tubeless tire onto a tubeless wheel on my previous bike, I was so frustrated why the tire bead wasn't mounting onto the rim. I did this multiple times and tried finding different hacks or solutions and nothing was working! Not until I took the bike to the bike shop to get a bike tune did I realize that when the bike tech told me "Yea your tire is not tubeless bro" FAIL on my part
-Crankydad
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