Carbonda FM 1003 / Flybike FM 1266 180mm "Super Enduro"

[FullCarbonAlchemist]

Yes, it can take a dual crown fork — Sherpa has been selling this configuration, and the A2C isn’t that different than spec.

180mm is max frame travel. 205x65mm is already the longest trunnion shock length/stroke available and you do *not* want to try a trunnion-to-eyelet adapter for a bike that takes this kind of punishment: it will absolutely break, and possibly take the mounting point with it. Plus there are multiple other reasons why this wouldn’t make sense anyway given the possible length/stroke combinations for those sizes of standard eyelet shock.

The swingarm would hit the frame with any longer stroke.

You could talk to Cachet Bikes about their DH variant frame with longer shock but I’m fairly sure that isn’t available direct from the factory. And Cachet’s web site gives me the impression it may not be available from them for a while yet (listed as out of stock).

[FullCarbonAlchemist]

For the 1003 owners, something I realized I wasn’t sure about and doesn’t seem to be discussed in this thread: what headset does the 1003 take? I am planning on using my own so I didn’t order the OEM one from Carbonda.

I had just assumed it took the same 1.5/1.5 headset as my 1002, but I’ve been trying to figure out where I got that idea from and the schematic drawing on Page 1 sure looks tapered, as do pictures of riders’ builds.

Can anyone point me in the right direction?

[stoveham]

Hello! I used a cane creek 40 zs 44/56 headset.

You do have to press the cups into the frame, which is kind of scary even with the right tools...

Also keep in mind for your build the standard rear rotor diameter is 200mm - surprised me when I was planning on running a 180.

[FullCarbonAlchemist]

Hello! I used a cane creek 40 zs 44/56 headset.

You do have to press the cups into the frame, which is kind of scary even with the right tools...

Also keep in mind for your build the standard rear rotor diameter is 200mm - surprised me when I was planning on running a 180.

That’s good to know, I was expecting it to be drop-in like the 1002 and most other frames I’ve owned recently! I ordered a FSA Orbit 1.5ZS (No.57) which has the flush press-in shells and 44/56 bearings. Should fit the bill.

Now I’ll know to plan for having my LBS press these in before I do the rest of my build. I have a press but would rather not take the risk of screwing it up since pressing headsets is one of the few mechanical things I haven’t done in many years, and I’ve never done it with carbon.

[FullCarbonAlchemist]

I'll chime in here - so far, so good! No odd creaks or rattles, the bike is tons of fun to ride. I kept the float x on over the x2 and have been happy so far. Planning on trying 190 on the front to see if it jacks up the ride characteristics and will report back.

Only complaint is the paint...it'll chip if you look at it wrong. Seems like their paint job quality has gone down recently so it's probably worth the extra $$ to order it raw and take it to a local shop.

 I do have to caveat that I've only had the frame since the late fall, it's been to the bike park twice and I've had it out on my local trails a dozen or so times...interested to see how it holds up over the next season and if I end up reaching for the 1003 over my Ripmo like I have been over this winter.

I’ll be making my own build thread soon (probably covering my latest 1002 changes in addition to the new 1003), but have definitely noticed that the paint is different on the 1003 versus the 1002. It’s more of a dark carbon-gray than matte black, with carbon texture visible through the paint which it isn’t on the 1002.

The front and rear frames made contact while I was unboxing (left side touches, right side doesn’t due to the asymmetric swingarm) and the paint immediately chipped off at that spot. I covered it up with a dab of matte black touch up paint so no big deal but it did show how fragile this semi-transparent coating is. Noticeably more so than the 1002 and that is already pretty easy to chip.

So it’s definitely not just you.

It’s almost like the 1003 came from a different designer and an entirely different production line than the 1001/1002. Bunch of small differences, like the press in headset and somewhat crude (but workable) tube in tube cable routing. Head tube ~15mm shorter in the same frame size.

[casual_build]

It’s almost like the 1003 came from a different designer and an entirely different production line than the 1001/1002. Bunch of small differences, like the press in headset and somewhat crude (but workable) tube in tube cable routing. Head tube ~15mm shorter in the same frame size.

Painting is a skilled profession, someone working for Carbonda is painting poorly. It is very much a luck of the draw and not frame specific. My FM1002 has the paint that easily chips too. It's like the primer and paint are not bonding very well.

Please complain to your contact at Carbonda, if no one complains, nothing will happen. I got some money back for my paint issues, just because I want them to know that this affects them financially.

[Crankydad]

Full Carbon Alchemist: How is your build going so far with the FM1003?

I've been following this thread alot, and I'm very interested in purchasing the FM1003 or the FM1002. Currently I have an ICAN P1 trail frame from 2021 that I built up, and I'm needing more of an enduro frame that can handle days at the bike park with large jumps and a bike that still pedals efficiently since I plan on using it at my local trails which require a good amount of pedaling up to the top.

My type of riding now consists of bike park days (medium large jumps, descending small section of techy medium sized roots, berms, climbing). At my local trails, I usually do 50% pedaling up (50% descending), 3-4 ft drops, medium sized jumps, rock gardens, sections of sand and loose rocks.

I'd like this next bike purchase to be my daily driver bike. I go biking about 1x/week, but sometimes I'm able to squeeze 2x/week.

Please let me know if anyone can share their recommendation on should I buy the FM1003 bike or FM1002 bike or just any positive or negative experience so far with your FM1003.

Thank you!

Crankydad

[stoveham]

I'd like this next bike purchase to be my daily driver bike. I go biking about 1x/week, but sometimes I'm able to squeeze 2x/week.

Please let me know if anyone can share their recommendation on should I buy the FM1003 bike or FM1002 bike or just any positive or negative experience so far with your FM1003.

Thank you!

Crankydad

Howdy! After having the FM1003 for a while I am still very happy with the bike - it would definitely handle the features you are talking about. A couple of things to keep in mind, though - there's no water bottle mount on the FM 1003. I just leave my bottle at the bottom of the lift at the park, or use a frame bag and a soft water bottle when I'm out on the trails.

The 1003 is alot of travel for a daily driver - unless your daily rides are typically long climbs followed by long descents with big features. If your rides are a general mix - the 1002 would be a better all around option.

That being said, the 1003 is a ton of fun, and pedals well for a 180mm sled. I'm currently running it with a 190mm Zeb and using it as a pedalable park bike. Its overkill for 90% of what I do but I really enjoy taking it out.

The only issues I've had are the poor paint job, sneaky linkage hardware loosening (even with locktite...part of the pre ride ritual is torquing everything up) and missing a real water bottle.

Hope that helps!

[Crankydad]

Howdy! After having the FM1003 for a while I am still very happy with the bike - it would definitely handle the features you are talking about. A couple of things to keep in mind, though - there's no water bottle mount on the FM 1003. I just leave my bottle at the bottom of the lift at the park, or use a frame bag and a soft water bottle when I'm out on the trails.

The 1003 is alot of travel for a daily driver - unless your daily rides are typically long climbs followed by long descents with big features. If your rides are a general mix - the 1002 would be a better all around option.

That being said, the 1003 is a ton of fun, and pedals well for a 180mm sled. I'm currently running it with a 190mm Zeb and using it as a pedalable park bike. Its overkill for 90% of what I do but I really enjoy taking it out.

The only issues I've had are the poor paint job, sneaky linkage hardware loosening (even with locktite...part of the pre ride ritual is torquing everything up) and missing a real water bottle.

Hope that helps!

Stoveham thanks so much! This helps! I feel like the 1002 is the better option for me, I do a general mix of everything including sometimes some steeper climbing. But I do enjoy taking bike to bike park and doing medium to large jumps, going down technical terrain, and taking longer descents.

Good point about no water bottle cage and about sneaky linkage hardware loosening. I will definitely keep in mind.

Thank you!

Crankydad

[jefflinde]

Any more experience with this frame?   I see that ICAN is making a version called the X17.  Not sure on pricing.  Anyone have this set up as a dual crown bike?

[maravojtu]

Where can I order the FM 1003/ ICAN X17 frame?

[casual_build]

Any more experience with this frame?   I see that ICAN is making a version called the X17.  Not sure on pricing.  Anyone have this set up as a dual crown bike?

A few good reviews so far. Nothing negative on the Carbonda version. No one has dual-crowned on this forum but it fits according to Carbonda. Zero info about the ICAN frame besides catalog and web page.

Where can I order the FM 1003/ ICAN X17 frame?

Carbonda is selling it, email them here info@carbonda.com
Post your build and review here

[zooky]

Hey All,

Have had the frame now for about 18-19 months. I pulled out my rear brake hose because I want to change brake set.

As a test, I tried to re-run a outer housing cable back to the rear, but it seems like the "curve/turn" part just before the BB is worn out/broken/gone.  The cable now just pops out straight in the BB area 

Anyone else notice this?

Ive half given up trying to get a cable through and probably will externally route the new rear brake hose.

[adi]

Hey zooky,

could you keep us updated.

Did it work, are you going to claim warranty (does it even work, like do they respond and so on) or how are you going to do it?

[FullCarbonAlchemist]

Hey All,

Have had the frame now for about 18-19 months. I pulled out my rear brake hose because I want to change brake set.

As a test, I tried to re-run a outer housing cable back to the rear, but it seems like the "curve/turn" part just before the BB is worn out/broken/gone.  The cable now just pops out straight in the BB area 

Anyone else notice this?

Ive half given up trying to get a cable through and probably will externally route the new rear brake hose.

I haven’t touched my cable routing since the initial build, but having seen those routing tubes (which sure look like rolled paper soaked in a little glue), I’m not super surprised one broke under the kinds of riding this frame is meant for.

Definitely something to keep an eye on. If I ever change the brakes on mine, I’d try to use the previous hose to route the new one (or just attach new lever and caliper to existing hose, if that’s an option but it often isn’t). Normally you can just tape the new hose to the front end of the old one and pull it through, but in this case you’d probably want something more robust to hold the two together as it passed through the missing section.

If the tube broke off entirely, I’d expect to find it rattling around inside the frame….