John's IP-057 build - first bike build ever

[Carbon_Dude]

Torque on a carbon seat post should be around 5N-m.  I have a Bontrager torq Key that's preset for 5N-m, works nice and easy to carry on a ride if your are not sure your clamp is staying tight.  I've never seen a clamp loosen over time, maybe it's your coating getting squeezed down a bit .

[Patrick C.]

Just ordered a six pack of KMC missing links off Amazon.  I'll be thanking you guys when I'm not walking out of the woods

[cmh]

Just ordered a six pack of KMC missing links off Amazon.  I'll be thanking you guys when I'm not walking out of the woods

One on the chain, and one in the bag, just in case. I managed to help a lady get riding again with one of my spares - she had broken her chain out on Gooseberry Mesa in Utah and was not close to the parking lot. Got rid of the broken outer plates, popped in the KMC quick link, boom, done.

[jwilds1]

Now have two road rides and 45 miles total on the bike. Only issue that's popped up is a creaking from the headset. I took it apart this evening and didn't find anything amiss - everything was tight. I applied liberal amounts of grease to both the lower bearing and upper - I have the Neco headset and put the grease between the upper copper colored ring and the upper bearing. Anything else I should be looking at? I do have multiple stacks of spacers - 4 below the stem and 3 above, each 0.25".

Another minor nit is that I need to get a longer stem. I bought a short one (70mm?) And probably need a 100mm.

[Carbon_Dude]

Now have two road rides and 45 miles total on the bike. Only issue that's popped up is a creaking from the headset. I took it apart this evening and didn't find anything amiss - everything was tight. I applied liberal amounts of grease to both the lower bearing and upper - I have the Neco headset and put the grease between the upper copper colored ring and the upper bearing. Anything else I should be looking at? I do have multiple stacks of spacers - 4 below the stem and 3 above, each 0.25".

Another minor nit is that I need to get a longer stem. I bought a short one (70mm?) And probably need a 100mm.

Sometimes it's difficult to know exactly where a creaking noise is coming from.  If you have carbon bars, try putting some carbon friendly lubricant like Finish Line Fiber Grip or similar between the bars and the stem.  If your bars are aluminum then just some grease.  Ensure the stem is torqued correctly.  Also check your seat post as well.
 

[jwilds1]

Definitely not the seat post (don't jinx it! I fought that a while). Aluminum bars. Hoping the grease will help. Will report back later this week.

[Patrick C.]

Just ordered a six pack of KMC missing links off Amazon.  I'll be thanking you guys when I'm not walking out of the woods

I guess I can predict the future? 

On my last ride (easy paved trail) the chain kept jumping around in the rear- ghost shifting, popping on and off the cogs.  I adjusted the derailer but it turns out it was the chain- the Shimano connector pin had worked its way out, and going up a climb today the chain fell right off.  I wasn't pedaling very hard when it happened, so nothing else was damaged and I didn't fall over.   Gettting the other pin out was no trouble with the Crank Bros multi tool, and the KMC link was simple to put on.  It takes a fair amount of force to pull it into place, but that is easy to generate by standing on the cranks to pull it tight.

[jwilds1]

Those Crank Bros tools are nice.  Mine's paid for itself a few times...

In other news, I changed out the front tire to a Slant Six (with a SB8 on the rear), and was finally, FINALLY able to get both wheels tubeless!!!!  Took them both apart, cleaned off the old Stans & Gorilla Tape residue,  re-taped with some different tape (forget the brand and I'm at work - I think it's a 3M product), new stems, Orange seal instead of Stan's and they've held now for a little over a week...

Planning for the first ride "in anger" this coming weekend.

[jwilds1]

So, my first official ride was this weekend, and it wasn't without incident 

Some racer buddies of mine put on a skills clinic at a local trail.  Skinnies, log piles, jumps.  Considering I have very little skills, I went out to practice.

First up were the log piles, going both up and down hill.  Zero issues with that, and the bike behaved flawlessly.  Next up were the skinnies, which I've always had a problem with.  With some tips, I was able to clear all of them start to finish.

Next were the drops/jumps. I've always had difficulty - not sure if I tense up or what, but they've always given me issues.  The first setup  was only a 6" drop, and I was landing flat every single time.  After 5-6 of those, I moved onto the 12" ramp.  First time, great.  Second time, not so great...  Front tire first...



I did push on though, and when we went out onto the trails I conquered a lot of stuff that I would have skipped - either it was the newfound skills or the extra motivation of a group ride...

Let's just say that I've got another tab open with Amazon looking at shin guards.
---------------------------------------
Enough about the loose nut behind the wheel, on to the BIKE!

After the crash, the #$%^^&**( seat post came loose again.  I am cranking on it so hard that it's just a matter of time before it breaks.  I'm looking to you all for guidance.  I have the IP-057, the IP-SP5 seat post from XMIplay, and this clamp - http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NSFOBMM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If that's the incorrect clamp, I'll eat my hat.

Good news / Bad news on the headset.  Good news is the creaking is gone now, after liberal application of grease.  Bad news is I've developed a wobble.  When I took it apart to grease, I did the final cut and put some different spacers in.  It's possible I didn't put it back together correctly or something came loose.  TBH, after the crash

[Carbon_Dude]

For the seatpost, do you have a set of calipers to measure the ID of the frame and the OD of the post?  You should start with knowing what gap you have.

First remedy is applying some carbon paste, like Finish Line Fiber Grip.  The grit in the paste helps with gripping the seatpost.

Second remedy, and it has been discussed in this forum, if you have more gap then clean the seatpost and apply additional clearcoat to the post to add thickness.

For the clamp, you could try a wider clamp like a Thomson seat post collar:  http://bikethomson.com/seatpost-collars/

Double check the assembly and the preload you have on your headset.  If it all looks good then, measure the bearings (OD) and the cups (ID) and check your gap, we can go from there.
 

[outriding9800]

+1 on the Thomson seat clamp..


I have one one my 057 and it works great. Note I got the 34.9 size.

Note the torque on the bolt.. It is not as much torque as you would think to apply..  (2.8nm)

[jwilds1]

Carbon Grip?  Been there.  Clear Poly?  Done that.

Am I too fat?  Entirely possible.  Getting awfully frustrating.

I'll take the calipers home from work and check everything tomorrow.

[MTB2223]

Carbon Grip?  Been there.  Clear Poly?  Done that.

Do it again. I used hair spray to make the seatpost a little bit thicker. Three layers was enough. And now, after 8 month, still no problems. I'm using the same seatclamp as you. First cleanup your seatpost and frame, than the extra clearcoat/hairspray, than carbon paste. And please, don't tighten the seatclamp to much, have respect for the nm (max 4nm).

Am I too fat?  Entirely possible.  Getting awfully frustrating.

No, you aren't!

[Patrick C.]

4 nanometers?  How are you measuring that?   


Sorry, geek 'humor'.  I also get twitchy when people use 'ID' for the inside width on rims. 

[outriding9800]

newton meters..

or 25 in-ft..