John's IP-057 build - first bike build ever

[jwilds1]

Chain length - will try and get some pics of the driveline tomorrow (too much stuff going on tonight).  I do remember that when I was in little/little I had to do a lot of adjustment on the "B" adjustment on the rear derailleur.  Now that I think about it, I remember having a PITA getting the pin back in the chain after removing the links - maybe the pin isn't fully in.  Will have to check it out...

Seat post - instead of hair spray, could I build up the finish coat with some matte Polyurethane clear coat?  have some of that left over from a woodworking job.

[MTB2223]

Little/little ? Shame on you  You never ride you bike little/little. You use the granny only for climbing. And in little/little you're not climbing 

I don't think the matte clear coat is a problem ...

[outriding9800]

Did you get a shadow + rear derailuer?

if you did, did you try to move the clutch lever to on?

I think that is suppose to help with not having the chain dropping.

 

[MTB2223]

Yes, I have a shadow+ rd. But I don't lock it, because sometimes I want to shift 3 gears in ones. When the shadow+ is locked, I couldn't do that.  But last month I changed from 2x10 to 1x10. But I had never a chain drop or even a chain slap with 2x10.

[cmh]

Yes, I have a shadow+ rd. But I don't lock it, because sometimes I want to shift 3 gears in ones. When the shadow+ is locked, I couldn't do that.  But last month I changed from 2x10 to 1x10. But I had never a chain drop or even a chain slap with 2x10.

No reason beyond a stiffer shifter that you shouldn't be able to do a multi-gear jump with the Shadow + in the "on" positiion. My wife's bike has a XT Shadow+ and multi-gear shifts are no problem. Definitely a firmer shift lever feel than my bike with the non-shadow RD, for sure.

[jwilds1]

First, I'll answer questions. My reference to little/little was when the bike was in the stand and I was getting everything adjusted. I don't have Shadow+, so no lever to adjust.

Took a look at the driveline and found the culprit:




Yup, that'll do it. Pin was falling out. Off to the LBS for a new pin, but I have a question:

I was reading my Zinn book and it referenced that Shimano chains have an outside and inside, with the logo going on the outside. True? Mine was on backwards.

[MTB2223]

Yes, a Shimano chain have a inside and a outside. The outside contains characters on it. So, on the picture, the chain isn't correct installed. 

[outriding9800]

I use a sram link instead of using those pins

Works great and have 1k miles on with no issues

[Carbon_Dude]

I use a sram link instead of using those pins

Works great and have 1k miles on with no issues

I agree, either the SRAM power link or KMC missing link both work well if you do not already have a master link in your chain.  I would also highly recommend you also carry a spare one of those when trail riding, a spare link is a lifesaver when you break a chain 10 miles out from the parking lot.

[jwilds1]

Thanks a lot.  I thought about using a Missing Link, but wasn't sure it would work (novice here).  I'll grab one (or a few) of those on my way home.

[outriding9800]

I have never used the KMC one.. They say it is reusable but the SRAM says noooo.. (i have reused a SRAM with no issues)..


I like the link option... i like to clean the chain off the bike.

[jwilds1]

Problem #1 solved:



Problem #2 is the seat post. It is now drying with its second coat of clear poly. Going to do that and the carbon grip. And now for another stupid question - clamp positioning shown below is correct, no?

[Carbon_Dude]

I would say yes, that is correct.  The opening of the clamp is opposite the large vertical notch in the seat tube. It may not matter that much but that is the way I have both of mine.

[cmh]

I would say yes, that is correct.  The opening of the clamp is opposite the large vertical notch in the seat tube. It may not matter that much but that is the way I have both of mine.

Agreed - most everything I've seen about using seat clamps with carbon posts says to put the clamp opening opposite the slot in the seat tube. Here you've got two but as CD pointed out, you've got it opposite the larger one.

[jwilds1]

First REAL ride update:

Went on the annual "Worst Day of the Year" ride in Ann Arbor MI this weekend.  Forecast initially started out as 35 degrees F and sunny, but as the date grew closer, started falling.  Morning started out at 27 degrees, and by the time we went off at 1:00 was 23 degrees with a 15mph wind.  Lots of compliments on the bike from friends, including a guy I work with who kills the hills on a 196x Schwinn with 2-speed kick transmission.

Zero issues with the drivetrain this time around, and zero issues with the seatpost, and amounted to a very good ride (all roads, except for a small section that was frozen - Small Block 8's were surprisingly good, almost acting like studded tires).

One thing that I thought of, with regards to the seatpost, was torque falloff.  I did the poly-spray Thursday night, carbon grip and reassembled Friday.  When I tightened the clamp post down, I got it pretty d**n tight.  On Sunday, before loading it up, I did one last check and it felt looser than how I'd left it.  Tightened it up again and rode with no issues.  Wondering if it may be the clamp or the fastener or both.  Will check it out tonight, and try and figure out if I can get a torque wrench on it.