Velobuild VB-R-218

[Sebastian]

Well, should the FD move with just a quarter/half/full turn on the screw ?

At this point I think my bike is mocking me and taking perverse delight in my confusion/misery ....aka schadenfreude   

Well, I feel like you should take a brief look at how the limit screws actually work. That’s gonna make it a lot easier for you to understand how to set this thing up. You can probably see it better on the RD. There’s tabs in the derailleur that the screws make contact with and then push against as you turn them further in. So the answer to your question is: Yes, the FD should move at a quarter of a turn of the LOWER limit screw, IF that screw is already turned in far enough to actually make contact with the aforementioned tab.
The OUTER limit screw will not make your FD move. It will just make it stop further outboard or inboard when you upshift.

[madmax]

Well, I feel like you should take a brief look at how the limit screws actually work. That’s gonna make it a lot easier for you to understand how to set this thing up. You can probably see it better on the RD. There’s tabs in the derailleur that the screws make contact with and then push against as you turn them further in. So the answer to your question is: Yes, the FD should move at a quarter of a turn of the LOWER limit screw, IF that screw is already turned in far enough to actually make contact with the aforementioned tab.
The OUTER limit screw will not make your FD move. It will just make it stop further outboard or inboard when you upshift.

Yes, I was referring to the inner limit screw (thanks for adding in the outer limit description, which helps)

My inner screw is buried so deep that even back it out all the way & turning it does not move the FD until you really crank it several turns & that is why I think its damaged

I will double check everything per your posts, so I can get the shifting to where I would like it

[madmax]

Finished a quick 14 mile sprint for lunch.
Shifting was pretty smooth & I understood when to use the trim function on the left hand levers

There was an incredible amount of creaking & rattling & I might have to pull the crank & re-grease everything & torque it back up & optionally check for bottom bolt rub & just dremel that

This is on a near lever surface & the creaking sounds like one of those gates or doors in a horror movie that are constantly opening/closing with squeaks/creaks...as best as I can describe that

[Spidermonkey]

You mean the threads in the one piece Handlebar for the grub screws, right? I had no issues with these. But there was one other forum member posting here who stripped the threads there after using Loctite. I think it’s safe to say that everything that is threaded on this frame should be met with a lot of caution. The material is not particularly durable and the threads are not particularly clean.

Yes, I finally got a picture of them. They now thread in securely without any issue. Have to be SUPER CAREFUL with threads into composite. Definitely going to use lubricant instead of Loctite.
I did also start cable routing the handle bars. That was pretty tough.

[Sebastian]

Yes, I was referring to the inner limit screw (thanks for adding in the outer limit description, which helps)

My inner screw is buried so deep that even back it out all the way & turning it does not move the FD until you really crank it several turns & that is why I think its damaged

I will double check everything per your posts, so I can get the shifting to where I would like it

It's hard to diagnose your FD without ever having seen it.
Maybe have a look here:
It's an 11sp FD but the principle is identical.

If your FD doesn't move at all upon turning the inner limit screw, I'm afraid it might just be terminally damaged.

[madmax]

Did you post a link ? It's not showing up

I contacted the Campagnolo US office & they were very nice & agreed to replace the inner & outer limit screws on the FD at no charge sometime in Feb & that will resolve that

1. Looks like I will have to pull the cranks & turn bike upside down & figure out what is causing all the creaking & rubbing noise
It might be the bolt, though the noise should have happened sooner or maybe the cable foam housing is hitting the spindle somewhere, when theres load on the pedals (aka uphill)

2. Front fork has a weird squeak, when riding on the hoods & going slightly uphill & sound like a bearing or race.

No lateral play in either case above, so probably a case of regrease & correct torque on cranks & compression plug on steerer

Overall, still very pleased with the way the build turned out & its a nice enjoyable ride.
I did take the time today to focus on the shifting and feel and when to use the trim and I must say the groupset is remarkably smooth and feels really nice


Edit #1
I did look at the same YouTube video you posted above & that helped me align & finalize the FD set up

Crank squeak is caused by the wavy ring on the non-drive side arm.
Per another YouTube, this is due to minor play on one side  in the Ultra Torque cup design when the spindle is inserted  with wavy ring & this is by design and the only solution is to remove arm on one side & grease, reattach & insert bolt & torque  up  40-60nm

My issue is probably caused by setting torque to 42nm, as I did not have the strength to go any higher & will probably get someone to  hold frame when I set it to 50nm & that should resolve the  issue

Handlebar.  I will probably remove this & re-grease the bearing & make sure the race is sitting correctly & everything is torqued correctly.

[hurburt]

Heyo guys,
long time no see.

I have been riding my vb-218 since last september pretty much exclusively.
I just got home from a ride yesterday and today I wanted to hop on and take it for a spin, but I observed the following: see the pic.

there is a small crack in the carbon near the lower seatpost screw. I have not changed my saddleheight in quite a while and tightened it with 3-4nm only. So im guessing the frame is gone then?

I rode in around 0 degrees c in winter and my bike made some weird noises in those very cold temps. But i thaught that was the saddle rails or something like that.

How did you repair yours sebastian? And would you mind giving me a crashcourse in your trades ? Also you think this is a warranty claim worthy case?

[abedfo]

Heyo guys,
long time no see.

I have been riding my vb-218 since last september pretty much exclusively.
I just got home from a ride yesterday and today I wanted to hop on and take it for a spin, but I observed the following: see the pic.

there is a small crack in the carbon near the lower seatpost screw. I have not changed my saddleheight in quite a while and tightened it with 3-4nm only. So im guessing the frame is gone then?

I rode in around 0 degrees c in winter and my bike made some weird noises in those very cold temps. But i thaught that was the saddle rails or something like that.

How did you repair yours sebastian? And would you mind giving me a crashcourse in your trades ? Also you think this is a warranty claim worthy case?

I was wondering if that is just a crack in the clear coat? if all warranty options etc fail you may as well sand that little area and see if the carbon is compromised. If it isn't just cover the sanded area in nail varnish to seal.

[Sebastian]

Heyo guys,
long time no see.

I have been riding my vb-218 since last september pretty much exclusively.
I just got home from a ride yesterday and today I wanted to hop on and take it for a spin, but I observed the following: see the pic.

there is a small crack in the carbon near the lower seatpost screw. I have not changed my saddleheight in quite a while and tightened it with 3-4nm only. So im guessing the frame is gone then?

I rode in around 0 degrees c in winter and my bike made some weird noises in those very cold temps. But i thaught that was the saddle rails or something like that.

How did you repair yours sebastian? And would you mind giving me a crashcourse in your trades ? Also you think this is a warranty claim worthy case?

Un-Tighten an Re-Tighten the seat clamp screws slowly and see if you can make out any movement in the crack.
It's a bit of a weird spot because it appears to be below where the seatpost wedge actually expands. Also, examine the inside for cracks.

If you're sure that it's actually a structural crack, definitely make a warranty claim with VB.
Mine was replaced under warranty. Chris asked me to sand away the paint to expose the crack. But that shouldn't be necessary with yours.

[madmax]

Creaking is bad despite best attempts to lube the crank (non-ds) & skewers

AT this point I will have to start dismantling the bike & re-lube & re-torque everything as I think the bike shop really messed it up despite me printing out the specs for the Dogma F12 & leaving it with them & giving them original Pinarello compression plugs & screws etc etc

I did find these 2 links that were useful and may help someone else.

https://bicycleuniverse.com/why-is-my-bike-is-making-a-creaking-noise-when-pedaling/

https://bicycleuniverse.com/creak-bike-10-things-worth-checking/


Last option would be the Elite-Drive wheels, but since the creak only happens when I pedal & there is zero play in the crank, I'm thinking they messed up the drive side crank or UT cups & I had better remove & lube those & tighten them back & check handlebar/pedals & cassette lockring

[Sebastian]

Creaking is bad despite best attempts to lube the crank (non-ds) & skewers

AT this point I will have to start dismantling the bike & re-lube & re-torque everything as I think the bike shop really messed it up despite me printing out the specs for the Dogma F12 & leaving it with them & giving them original Pinarello compression plugs & screws etc etc

I did find these 2 links that were useful and may help someone else.

https://bicycleuniverse.com/why-is-my-bike-is-making-a-creaking-noise-when-pedaling/

https://bicycleuniverse.com/creak-bike-10-things-worth-checking/


Last option would be the Elite-Drive wheels, but since the creak only happens when I pedal & there is zero play in the crank, I'm thinking they messed up the drive side crank or UT cups & I had better remove & lube those & tighten them back & check handlebar/pedals & cassette lockring

Try swapping you wheels with different ones for a test and see if that makes a difference.
There's not much you can mess up when assembling an UT crankset. Drive side just goes straight in. NDS goes in together with a wavy washer.
Maybe make a video so we can hear what it sounds like?
Also: Is the retaining clip inserted correctly on the drive side BB cup?
And you could also try and pop the seals out of the BB cups. I always take those out since they do nothing but add drag. But I doubt that they would cause a creak like that.

[madmax]

Removed the non drive side crank & then tried to remove the UT cup
To my surprise the whole aluminum BB insert/shell started moving & now I'm fairly certain that was the cause of the creak

Is this frame even safe to use anymore ?

See image.  The video is too large to post

[Yunglord]

that looks like it is completely separated from the frame.
Warranty request and hopefully Velobuild helps you out.

[Spidermonkey]

Thanks everyone for their help so far!
I am doing cable routing now and have a question about this plastic insert for the rear mech. How did you get internally routed cables around/through this?
The hole is too small to feed the cable housing through. Does the cable housing terminate internally there and then a smaller section goes from this plastic insert to the mech interface?

[madmax]

Thanks everyone for their help so far!
I am doing cable routing now and have a question about this plastic insert for the rear mech. How did you get internally routed cables around/through this?
The hole is too small to feed the cable housing through. Does the cable housing terminate internally there and then a smaller section goes from this plastic insert to the mech interface?

Remove plastic insert at rear and run cable through
Use a small drill bit on insert after its remove and enlarge the hole a bit
Put insert back on cable and into hole