Velobuild VB-R-218

[madmax]

Thanks for your comment:
someone has other suggestions?
@Sebastian ?
@kongo ?

Did you already buy the Di2 groupset or had one lying around ?

If no, then the sram eTap is the easiest way to get a groupset on that frame & handlebar

[pierluigi]

Thanks,

but I have already this group.

[Whatsperkilo?]

Thanks for your comment:
someone has other suggestions?
@Sebastian ?
@kongo ?

There’s no holes in the bar but if you have a bar end junction you’ll be able to daisy chain the Di2 wires to the levers utilising the multiple di2 ports on them. And then route through the brake hose holes and from there to the frame and down to the battery and derailleurs - DI2 will basically shift correctly as long as all the components are connected in some way. Bettershifting.com is a great resource for this.
If you’re handy with a solder iron you can also save a few pennies by making your own wiring loom and avoid the need for multiple junction boxes.

I put the new 12 speed on mine so no need for wires in the handlebars but I may well install some at a later date to increase the system battery life (lasts longer when wired)

I’m still waiting for Chris to ship me a replacement frame after I had the cracked seattube issue Sebastian also had.

[madmax]

My replacement frame showed up after much emailing back & forth

Note. They will only ship you the frame & not the seatpost or fork or handlebar.
I went ahead & paid another $300 to get another fork/seatpost/handlebar & they forgot to add in the Garmin mount, which I paid for & they have now stopped responding to emails & I have no idea if it will ever show up.

So at this point I have a fullblown set sitting in the garage with parts to make a whole new bike or move components over from existing bike, where I had the bb creak & the insert move around.
I did fix that (for now) by drilling a hole & pouring in RC-1 but now there other rattles in the front & I might just move over components to new frame & keep old one as a spare or put that bike on a trainer & just go with force eTap on the replacement frame (though now I am badly addicted to the Campagnolo Record mechanical shifting, after they sent a replacement FD & the tech fixed it & did a superb job)

I'd pay the extra $280 for the above 2 components & just keep them as a standby in case you need them.
You might be able to use RC-1 to bond the seatpost & just use the frame in a trainer at home, since it won't be safe to ride outside anywhere.

Keep the above in mind & keep in touch via email with "Chris" so you get your replacement frame. Their communication is fairly good given the latency & they do send out tracking #'s when they ship.

All in all, it was still an awesome learning experience & apart from some niggling issues, I would have no hesitation buying the same frame again to build a bike.

[Sebastian]

Thanks,

but I have already this group.

If I was you, I'd probably use this method:
Yes, it would require you to drill the bar down at the bar end where the junction box is inserted. But that can be done with pretty much no risk IMO. You then route from there externally below the bar tape to the right brifter. Connection between the brifters and into the frame can then be done by using the existing holes for brake and shifting lines. So there's minimal modification needed.

[Whatsperkilo?]

My replacement frame showed up after much emailing back & forth

Note. They will only ship you the frame & not the seatpost or fork or handlebar.
I went ahead & paid another $300 to get another fork/seatpost/handlebar & they forgot to add in the Garmin mount, which I paid for & they have now stopped responding to emails & I have no idea if it will ever show up.

So at this point I have a fullblown set sitting in the garage with parts to make a whole new bike or move components over from existing bike, where I had the bb creak & the insert move around.
I did fix that (for now) by drilling a hole & pouring in RC-1 but now there other rattles in the front & I might just move over components to new frame & keep old one as a spare or put that bike on a trainer & just go with force eTap on the replacement frame (though now I am badly addicted to the Campagnolo Record mechanical shifting, after they sent a replacement FD & the tech fixed it & did a superb job)

I'd pay the extra $280 for the above 2 components & just keep them as a standby in case you need them.
You might be able to use RC-1 to bond the seatpost & just use the frame in a trainer at home, since it won't be safe to ride outside anywhere.

Keep the above in mind & keep in touch via email with "Chris" so you get your replacement frame. Their communication is fairly good given the latency & they do send out tracking #'s when they ship.

All in all, it was still an awesome learning experience & apart from some niggling issues, I would have no hesitation buying the same frame again to build a bike.

Thanks for the advice. ‘Chris’ responded this morning to say they could send a 1.5k frame out on Monday. There was a bit of confusion as they first said they would send a UD finish so I said this was fine but would want new forks as this would match.

I did also previously get a quote for $200 to change to the vb168 frame with all the additional components added but decided against.

I know what you mean with nice to have spare parts - also I may well paint/get somebody to paint this replacement frame before building it so new parts would be easier. Did they send you all new hardware too? Bearings clamps etc?

Then again. Part of me also thinks it’s another $200-300 dollars down the drain when I decide against using the new frame and go buy a western brand haha.

Last question: does everybody else’s frame seem to have a worrying amount of flex around bottle cage area on the downtube and the middle of the chain stays? I know you’re not supposed to ‘squeeze’ the carbon but honestly some of the wall thickness does worry me! Forks, handlebars and seatpost all seem solid but the frame just doesn’t seem to match.

[madmax]

What exactly is a "western brand" when all frames are made in China or Taiwan

Might as well go further East & look back & now Velobuild is a "western brand"   

My 218 frame above is using the Campagnolo Record groupset with rim brakes & I have gone up & down the hills here in San Diego & bounced the bike around with zero flex or issues, apart from the BB one
Because I had to drill a hole in the bottom of the frame to pour in RC-1 to epoxy in the BB insert & prevent it from moving, I now know the thickness of the carbon is somewhere between 4-5mm & it is pretty well built

The whole setup above is lighter and faster than my 2021 Trek Madone SL-7 eTap with disc brakes & sram force groupset & I actually enjoy riding the  218 more than the Madone, except for the handlebar which is very uncomfortable on the hoods & the Bontrager bar is much better
(never thought I would say that for fear of hurting the Madone's feelings)

[mattgolt]

@madmaxhow deep is your seatpost inserted into the frame when you had the issues with the frame splitting? I'm starting to worry if I should get a longer seatpost, since it is extended quite far.

[madmax]

@madmaxhow deep is your seatpost inserted into the frame when you had the issues with the frame splitting? I'm starting to worry if I should get a longer seatpost, since it is extended quite far.

I have never had any frame splitting issues. My bike pix is on page 33 of this thread

Go to page# 33 and look at my bike "Blackbird" & view the full rez image and you will be able to figure out how much of the seatpost is in the frame
My frame is a size XL  (56cm) & I think top of seat to center of crank is 47inches (could be wrong on this)

http://chinertown.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=3650.0;attach=13865;image

[madmax]

Here you go
Just took a pix with a tape measure and it’s 6.5”

Hope this helps

[mattgolt]

Here you go
Just took a pix with a tape measure and it’s 6.5”

Hope this helps

Thank you very much for the picture. Apparently I have mistaken you for someone who had frame cracking at the seat post screws, haha. But thanks a ton for your effort

[curvenut]

Hi,

  I am counfused about the size of the bike .
my height is 172cm

And my curent bike had the following measure :
   reach: 450mm
   effective top tube:  515 mm
   top tube: 465mm (short size because Giant TCR1 (2005) compact frame)

If I  take my  reach and effective top tube,   the VB-R-218 size would be  between XS or S.

Does that make sense ?

[madmax]

Hi,

  I am counfused about the size of the bike .
my height is 172cm

And my curent bike had the following measure :
   reach: 450mm
   effective top tube:  515 mm
   top tube: 465mm (short size because Giant TCR1 (2005) compact frame)

If I  take my  reach and effective top tube,   the VB-R-218 size would be  between XS or S.

Does that make sense ?

I am 177.8 cm or 5' 10" & the size XL is the correct size for me  (56cm on a Trek)

See link below.  I compared my SL 7 Madone with size L & XL on VBR-218 & XL was the correct size
https://geometrygeeks.bike/compare/trek-madone-2021-56-cm,velobuild-vb-r-218-2022-525-xl,velobuild-vb-r-218-2022-520-l/

Do a similar comparison vs your TCR1 & then email "Chris" the results to get his suggestion

The 218 frame reach is shorter/more compact than my 56cm Madone & the bike is lighter
If the difference is +-1-3/1-3cm then go with the larger size, in this case "S"

[Sebastian]

Thank you very much for the picture. Apparently I have mistaken you for someone who had frame cracking at the seat post screws, haha. But thanks a ton for your effort

That was me. I got my seatpost set up to a seat height of approx 81.5cm. The seat tube is 54cm tall on my XXL frame. I dunno how long exactly the seatpost is but I marked and measured it and it's inserted around 10cm. I'm pretty sure though that my frame cracked upon the first installing of the seatpost when torqued the bolts up to 4nm. At least I heard a cracking noise then. Actual cracks only showed after the second ride, though. But ever since I repaired it, it holds up fine. I still haven't built up my replacement frame because I see no reason to do so.

[curvenut]

Hi,

    Wondering if someone bought the vbr218  without the integrated handlebar ??

I just contacted Chris and he informed me the frame  come as a whole, frame, fork and handlebar.
I quoted : '218 bar is special which included in frame set .our other bar stem not fit'

I was planning to buy the velobuild separeated stem and handlebar
https://www.velobuildmall.com/products/2021-new-carbon-handlebar-with-separate-stem


I am really surprise  that  any other handlebar will fit ??