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IIIPRO E4 4-Piston Hydraulic MTB Brakes - Are they to be trusted?
Fat Larry:
How much of that failure is down to the bleed/cheap pads/oil and how much is down to design and materials? Could they be rescued and made reliable by bleeding them with proper oil and swapping in some decent pads?
TidyDinosaur:
--- Quote from: Fat Larry on February 03, 2023, 10:35:07 PM ---How much of that failure is down to the bleed/cheap pads/oil and how much is down to design and materials? Could they be rescued and made reliable by bleeding them with proper oil and swapping in some decent pads?
--- End quote ---
Yeah, but that is it with these cheap Chinese brakes/groupsets... They work kinda OK, and then you spend hours and days and more money to try to get them to work a little better...
Tijoe:
I have always understood that if the hydraulic lines are bled and the calipers are set up/adjusted correctly, lever fade is usually due to the mineral oil becoming too hot and boiling/making bubbles. When the levers stay firm, but the brakes fade, this is due to the pads/compound and/or the rotors.
I have had lever fade happen on occasion on my Scumano XT hydraulic brakes. Usually when this happens the rotors are flaming hot, and the calipers are too hot to touch. This used to happen more often until I replaced the rotors with heat dissipating floating rotors.
Lever fade has happened to me usually when I have been on very steep long fast descents where I have to keep the brake/s applied for a long period of time to keep my speed down. When I am on technical trails where I have to brake hard, then release the brakes, then hard again and again, I have never had lever fade.
Tijoe:
IIIPro update. I've been using my IIIPros a lot this summer. About a week ago, I started hearing a grinding sound on the rear brake and the caliper wasn't gripping the rotor/stopping very well. I was in a rush, so I took of the caliper and saw that the anodizing was worn off in areas on edges of the caliper. When I actuated the lever, I could see that one pair of pistons weren't moving. The other pair of pistons and the brake pad were pushing the rotor onto the caliper and making the rotor rub on the caliper. I swapped out the caliper with another rear IIIPro caliper, bled it and the bike was back on the trails.
Today I took a look the the caliper and hooked it up to the lever mated to the bike I swapped the caliper from. When the lever was pulled, all 4 pistons move evenly like they should. I am wondering if some sort of air bubble formed so that the one side stopped working.
bremerradkurier:
Received my set yesterday and installed the front. Inboard pistons don't seem to move as easily as the outboard pistons, and the lever body rotates slightly around the clamp bolt while pulling the brake lever.
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