Velobuild VB-R-066 Rim brake (not dead yet?)

[ENEP]

Thanks for your reply… Ive got an xs size. The reason for picking this size is I had a bike fit (on my current bike that is a size s, so slightly bigger, for reference a Cube Attain GTC SL) and for that one had to slam and get a very short stem for it to fit.

I’ve attached notes from my bike fit…. I’m 5’7 and inseam 29”. From a reach point of view the xs is perfect, but the head tube really low compared to current bike (hence all the spacers). I’ve got 45mm of spacers at the mo under the stem.

Depending on size of your former Cube Attain comparing to VBR066 XS:
Cube size 50, similiar stack and reach https://bikeinsights.com/compare?geometries=5fc3d8009c03ff001779105e,63c271337227fd001cae930b,
Cube size 53, longer stack and reach. https://bikeinsights.com/compare?geometries=5fc3d8009c03ff001779105e,63c27578bd501b0020a15464,
If your former bike was a size 53 it sure was higher, but also longer so more streched out body position or very short stem to compensate.

Based on the data from the bike fit and the frame geo your only option is to run spacers as you currently do. You are maxing out on reach length, bottoming out on stack and seat angle is .5 degree slacker which legthens the distance from saddle to bar compared to recommended seat angle.
Body core strenghtening and flexibilty training could allow for more drop between saddle and handle bar and thereby fewer spacers. Or maybe trying a riser bar if you want to lower the amount of spacers.

[johnboot]

Depending on size of your former Cube Attain comparing to VBR066 XS:
Cube size 50, similiar stack and reach https://bikeinsights.com/compare?geometries=5fc3d8009c03ff001779105e,63c271337227fd001cae930b,
Cube size 53, longer stack and reach. https://bikeinsights.com/compare?geometries=5fc3d8009c03ff001779105e,63c27578bd501b0020a15464,
If your former bike was a size 53 it sure was higher, but also longer so more streched out body position or very short stem to compensate.

Based on the data from the bike fit and the frame geo your only option is to run spacers as you currently do. You are maxing out on reach length, bottoming out on stack and seat angle is .5 degree slacker which legthens the distance from saddle to bar compared to recommended seat angle.
Body core strenghtening and flexibilty training could allow for more drop between saddle and handle bar and thereby fewer spacers. Or maybe trying a riser bar if you want to lower the amount of spacers.

So, yes my former bike was the size 53 cube and I had to have a very short stem (which made things a bit twitchy actually). I think for now, I’ll just keep the amount of spacers (50mm under the stem) and see how it goes for a few rides (I’ve not actually been out on a proper ride since setting up yet). I’m thinking though that getting a stem that had a slight angle (& pointing up) mixed with some flexibility training willl allow me to drop spacers a bit and not be as paranoid about the steerer haha.

[johnboot]

One thing you could look at doing is getting a longer but steeper stem and then flip it up.  hard to tell from the pics but it looks like your stem is a 6 degree and is angled down.  if you went with a 17 degree stem you could remove a few spacers and have your bars end up in the same spot.

You have an eagle eye! indeed it’s currently angled down and I think about 6 degree….I think I’m actually going to change the bars relatively soon (as the drops are a bit big, although the hoods are perfect), so I’ll prob just get bear and stem together and look for one with a bit more of an angle and flip and see how that goes.

[jefflinde]

One thing to look for in the bars is a sheet reach on the bar itself.  I like to run PRO Plt bars because they have a 70mm reach.  Also had some Zipp bars that had the same reach.  Some bars can have 80-90mm reach so that right there could be 20mm further out that your hoods will be just from the bar.  Just something to look at so you don't end up worse off it than when you started. 

[johnboot]

One thing to look for in the bars is a sheet reach on the bar itself.  I like to run PRO Plt bars because they have a 70mm reach.  Also had some Zipp bars that had the same reach.  Some bars can have 80-90mm reach so that right there could be 20mm further out that your hoods will be just from the bar.  Just something to look at so you don't end up worse off it than when you started.

Thanks for the heads up, will be doing some homework on this front!

How you getting on with your build? Are you still thinking of getting the disc version? I’m actually eyeing up their gravel bikes at the mo as a potential second (GF002 or GF003)… otherwise, I’ll prob get the disc version and just set up a bit differently (i.e wider tyres, different gearing)

[jefflinde]

still liking the 066 rim brake.   it is still on trainer duty but the weather is getting warmer so it will get taken outside soon.  yes still looking at the disc version as well.  need to finish my gravel build.  i went with the light carbon LCG010.  i hate the cables through the headset so i went with their older version.  still has great clearance and a good stack height for my old back.  hahaha

[johnboot]

still liking the 066 rim brake.   it is still on trainer duty but the weather is getting warmer so it will get taken outside soon.  yes still looking at the disc version as well.  need to finish my gravel build.  i went with the light carbon LCG010.  i hate the cables through the headset so i went with their older version.  still has great clearance and a good stack height for my old back.  hahaha

Cool. Well I went out for a proper ride yesterday and very happy with the 066. The only issue was seat post moving a bit (I’ve used carbon paste and torqued correctly, so not sure what more I can do at the mo).

[bremerradkurier]

Cool. Well I went out for a proper ride yesterday and very happy with the 066. The only issue was seat post moving a bit (I’ve used carbon paste and torqued correctly, so not sure what more I can do at the mo).

Had the same problem with my OG-Evkin CF-025 which appears to be the same mold.  Used a small piece of this type of fiberglass mesh tape between the wedge and the seatpost combined with carbon paste and no more problems.

https://www.usg.com/content/usgcom/en/products/floors-tile/tile-prep/tape-screws-paper/durock-tile-backer-tape.html

[johnboot]

Had the same problem with my OG-Evkin CF-025 which appears to be the same mold.  Used a small piece of this type of fiberglass mesh tape between the wedge and the seatpost combined with carbon paste and no more problems.

https://www.usg.com/content/usgcom/en/products/floors-tile/tile-prep/tape-screws-paper/durock-tile-backer-tape.html

Thanks. I’ll get some of this and try it out