LTWOO ER9 & ERX - Electronic groepsets

[Ludo]

Mcmaster-Carr in US should have it

[kbernstein]

Joe from chinacycling hinted that all ltwoo groupsets were compatible with each other, despite a previous claim they weren't.  I'm sure somebody here has both eGR and a road groupset. Can you confirm the eGR RD can be paired with eRX shifters?

[boxof13]

Joe from chinacycling hinted that all ltwoo groupsets were compatible with each other, despite a previous claim they weren't.  I'm sure somebody here has both eGR and a road groupset. Can you confirm the eGR RD can be paired with eRX shifters?

@aramus1979 has done the homework for us awhile back. I can also confirm eR9 and eRX are compatible with each other as I have both.

I checked it for you, mounted rear derailleur eGR front eR9 works together, gear change works RD reacts to the right brake lever FD reacts to the left brake lever so the sets can be swapped. A large beer is due

[jonathanf2]

It's been a full year since I picked up 2 LTwoo ER9 groupsets, both units are still holding up! I was tempted to upgrade to version 3, but my version 1 units are still working fine. I had a few early battery related hiccups, but that problem was remedied by using the recommended 14500 800mah 3.7v batteries and periodically cleaning the charging port with cotton swabs and rubbing alcohol. The only modifications I've done to my groupset was change out the stock jockey wheels to Ultegra wheels, which in my opinion should be the default configuration (11t upper and lower as opposed to 11t/12t).

With the V3 improvements, I would probably still choose this groupset even compared to the likes of 105 Di2 or SRAM AXS. I just like having replaceable battery flexibility, the use of any type of mineral oil brake calipers and I can run whichever cassette speeds of my liking. I know people have had varying levels of success, but my ER9 setups have survived their first year! 

[toggle]

What difference do you spot after canging to Ultegra pulley wheels?

[pavlo.k]

I've been using my er9 for 5 months now and it's alright. I really hate the shifter buttons. They are mushy and a little hard to press. I also have egr and it's a night and day difference when it comes to buttons. Are there any hacks to make the buttons more "clicky"? Its summer here luckily but when Im wearing gloves I can't really tell if i pressed the button or not.

[jonathanf2]

What difference do you spot after canging to Ultegra pulley wheels?

There were two benefits I noticed switching to Ultegra pulley wheels. First sizing down the lower pulley wheel to 11t allowed me to bring the cage slightly closer to the small cog, especially on my 11-34t cassette (ER9/X is spec'ed for 32t max). It allowed tighter shifting and eliminated chain drops I was getting on downhill descents while on bumpy roads. Second benefit I noticed is that by switching the upper pulley wheel to the longer tooth 11t Ultegra upper, the chain stayed on track better. There were times I noticed on the stock LTwoo upper, if I accidentally shifted without pedaling the chain would go off track and jam.

[jonathanf2]

I've been using my er9 for 5 months now and it's alright. I really hate the shifter buttons. They are mushy and a little hard to press. I also have egr and it's a night and day difference when it comes to buttons. Are there any hacks to make the buttons more "clicky"? Its summer here luckily but when Im wearing gloves I can't really tell if i pressed the button or not.

Yeah, the V3 version seems to have fixed a lot of the small issues with the V1 like the mushy buttons. I also have the EGR on my gravel bike, and there are times I've thought about switching the shifters to my ER9 bike, especially since my left EGR shifter never gets any use.

[hsaus]

There were two benefits I noticed switching to Ultegra pulley wheels. First sizing down the lower pulley wheel to 11t allowed me to bring the cage slightly closer to the small cog, especially on my 11-34t cassette (ER9/X is spec'ed for 32t max). It allowed tighter shifting and eliminated chain drops I was getting on downhill descents while on bumpy roads. Second benefit I noticed is that by switching the upper pulley wheel to the longer tooth 11t Ultegra upper, the chain stayed on track better. There were times I noticed on the stock LTwoo upper, if I accidentally shifted without pedaling the chain would go off track and jam.

I can see the benefit of longer teeth on the upper pulley wheel, but how does the smaller lower pulley wheel allow you to bring the cage closer to smaller cogs on the 11-34t cassette? Not doubting you by the way, I'm just looking to learn (and possibly experiment myself).

[jonathanf2]

I can see the benefit of longer teeth on the upper pulley wheel, but how does the smaller lower pulley wheel allow you to bring the cage closer to smaller cogs on the 11-34t cassette? Not doubting you by the way, I'm just looking to learn (and possibly experiment myself).

The 1t difference between the Ltwoo 12t versus an 11t lower pulley wheel, forces you to adjust the B-screw to clear the 34t (on an 11-34t) cassette cog. That 1t difference was big enough that when trying to build speed on downhill descents using the highest gear, it can occasionally lead to chain drops on bumpy roads. I also have my other road bike with an in-spec 52-36/11-32t setup, and even that felt better on the ride using the 11/11t pulley combo. Just to make note, most my local terrain is a combination of rolling hills, climbing and fast descent.

[lavistaa]

I am reading others having issues with cassettes but Im running an 11-36 with an erx rear mech and having no issues with clearance or shifting (other than occasional alignment and tuning issues caused by the ltwoo app).

[jonathanf2]

I am reading others having issues with cassettes but Im running an 11-36 with an erx rear mech and having no issues with clearance or shifting (other than occasional alignment and tuning issues caused by the ltwoo app).

What size chainrings are you running with the 11-36t? I tend to like my shifting to be crisp and tight, especially when I was first switching from my properly tuned mechanical Ultegra R8000 setup. I felt 50-34/11-34t was the max for keeping decent performance. 50-34t or 52-36t with an 11-32t is would be optimal.

[lavistaa]

What size chainrings are you running with the 11-36t? I tend to like my shifting to be crisp and tight, especially when I was first switching from my properly tuned mechanical Ultegra R8000 setup. I felt 50-34/11-34t was the max for keeping decent performance. 50-34t or 52-36t with an 11-32t is would be optimal.

I originally used a 46/30 but am now using a 50/34.   It’s as good as a mechanical ultegra rx running an 11-40 with a 46/30 (9I run a brand a test all the odd stuff we can find; ultegra rx, xt (11 speed) di2 on my other bikes.

[1jzsupra]

New to the forum.  I have a 1st gen LTWOO eRX on an ELVES frame that I built up.  It's been FLAWLESS for about 1000 miles at this point to include a 90-mile ride and a 105-mile ride.  I went to wash it and avoided water on the derailleur....   DEAD.  It flashes red lights when you attempt to operate the shifter and does not do anything.

The good:
1.  I got it from LTWOO's official account on Aliexpress and they are pretty good at helping.  They did ask for a video to confirm and sent it to a tech.  By the next day, they had already agreed to send me a new unit.
2.  Based on the photo they sent me, it looks like they are sending the most up-to-date rear derailleur.  Hopefully, there isn't any issues with compatibility. 

The inconvenient:
1.  I had to pay for shipping, which I was prepared to do.... But I wasn't expecting it to be $65.  I was thinking around $20.
2.  Time difference is a factor in how long the process takes.  Obviously, they are in a different time zone, so it took about 5 days of talking to get it all sorted.

[elmtree]

The good:
1.  I got it from LTWOO's official account on Aliexpress and they are pretty good at helping.  They did ask for a video to confirm and sent it to a tech.  By the next day, they had already agreed to send me a new unit.
2.  Based on the photo they sent me, it looks like they are sending the most up-to-date rear derailleur.  Hopefully, there isn't any issues with compatibility. 

The inconvenient:
1.  I had to pay for shipping, which I was prepared to do.... But I wasn't expecting it to be $65.  I was thinking around $20.
2.  Time difference is a factor in how long the process takes.  Obviously, they are in a different time zone, so it took about 5 days of talking to get it all sorted.

The new one doesn't have a charging port at the rd. They moved it to the fd. Seems like you'll be unable to charge?