LTWOO eGR

[00Garza]

Secondly, the batteries that came in the groupset were bad. From 100% charge it went down to 67% in just one ride of approximately 30 miles. Not sure if those are faulty. Thankfully I had ordered a set of Vapcell F12 (https://liionwholesale.com/products/vapcell-f12-14500-3a-flat-top-1250mah-battery-genuine?variant=40620938330181) before the groupset so I replaced brand new batteries with Vapcell and after clocking in about 120 miles, the battery % shows at 91 - quite a drastic difference. I am guessing the battery life to get better after a few charge cycles.

That link is for flat top batteries. My eGR came with button tops. Did I get sent wrong batteries?
Not a battery expert. Is it ok if the mAh and voltages aren't exactly the same?

[trcycling]

• Voltage MUST be right. The actual voltage will vary by SoC (State of Charge). But the nominal voltage printed on the battery/spec sheet should match the requirement
• mAh is capacity. If it has more or less than designed, it should not cause a functional problem. So it's ok. However, it might contribute to an inaccurate SoC reading. The electronics are expecting a certain capacity and a corresponding curve of voltage and a higher or lower capacity battery will alter that. The software could adapt to it but I don't now if it will

I don't recall if button or flat top are the spec but get the right one. The wrong ones won't fit right in the carrier and cause you issues.

[jonathanf2]

That link is for flat top batteries. My eGR came with button tops. Did I get sent wrong batteries?
Not a battery expert. Is it ok if the mAh and voltages aren't exactly the same?

I'm just using these button top 14500 800mah batteries from US EBay:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/255450254698

Sometimes the full charge status is a bit wonky, but they've never failed me on the road once charged.

[00Garza]

I'm just using these button top 14500 800mah batteries from US EBay:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/255450254698

Sometimes the full charge status is a bit wonky, but they've never failed me on the road once charged.

Thanks! Do you get a decent ride time before needing recharge? Or just recharge regularly to play it safe?

[jonathanf2]

Thanks! Do you get a decent ride time before needing recharge? Or just recharge regularly to play it safe?

I've done weekend camping trips with no charging and they've held up. I don't think there's any need to go over 800mah with the batteries. Also I just recharge after a ride, since I have 3 LTwoo electronic equipped bikes. Sometimes a bike goes for a few days or a week of no riding since I put my bikes on rotation. Better safe than sorry!

[trcycling]

I've been seeing 200-300miles (3-500km) easy range on a charge. Probably more. But that's extrapolating on reported status when recharging which I do before it reports empty because I don't trust the reporting.

For comparison my SRAM AXS equipped bike, clearly reports 'fine' until it gives a warning (on my head unit but lights change too) as it gets low. Charge when you get home and it's all good. But the LTWOO and Garmin 1040 and Karoo 2 don't get the right information. It reports 'critical status' nearly every ride regardless of real status. This must have something to do with the ANT protocol messages between the derailleur and Garmin. Not sure which end is the issue. The LTWOO app gives a more progressive report. But it does not seem fully accurate either. But it's good enough if you don't try to run it dry. My assumption is that the issue is because I don't have quite the same batteries as they sell so the calibration is faulty.

I also have had it just run down to dead as a surprise even though on last check it was 'fine'.  I make a habit of charging long before it demands it (but still weeks) and before any important event.

Net net, the life is quite fine but the visibility leaves something to be desired

[amacal1]

I have some high quality cells that are rated for 800mAh and I get phenomenal longevity out of them, imo. At least 200-300 miles and weeks and weeks of standby time. Enough that I rather foolishly forget to check and charge frequently, which is a bad habit.

The Ltwoo app tracks battery capacity very well, but it seems most gps head units report low battery incorrectly because they're expecting Shimano battery status numbers. (You'll get a Garmin gps screaming at you about "cricital battery" but it's usually not really low at all)

[amacal1]

I'd see if you can get the bigger cage - changing this is a real pain in the arse, just like everything L-Twoo

Presumably you had the shorter cage before, right? Were you using it with a big cassette?

I'm curious how much shifting may have improved for you now that you've swapped to the longer arms. With a large 12sp cassette (50t) the shifting performance is pretty poor. It wasn't terriblely bad when I've been shifting around the middle of the cassette, but the last couple of weeks I threw road tires on my bike and have been sticking mostly to the 11, 13, 15t cogs and I'm fed up with the sluggish shifting.

[trcycling]

Presumably you had the shorter cage before, right? Were you using it with a big cassette?

I'm curious how much shifting may have improved for you now that you've swapped to the longer arms. With a large 12sp cassette (50t) the shifting performance is pretty poor. It wasn't terriblely bad when I've been shifting around the middle of the cassette, but the last couple of weeks I threw road tires on my bike and have been sticking mostly to the 11, 13, 15t cogs and I'm fed up with the sluggish shifting.

FWIW, I had my RD replaced under warranty and the replacement came with the longer cage. My perception was a clear and definitive improvement, particularly on the large (low) cog. I’m running a Garbaruk 10-50. But this is one unscientific observation.

 

[Walter-sobchak]

I've built up my EGR, but I'm running into an issue. Out of the box, it's reading the wrong gear. When I try to calibrate, the process times out — the RD disconnects and fails to calibrate to the correct gear (its on 6th on an 11-speed setup, but reads 4 in the app).

I've tried this on both Android and iOS.

The RD connects and shifts via the app, but during calibration it blinks a green light for an extended period before disconnecting.

Has anyone else run into this issue?