Seraph Bikes Superlight 836g X68 - Alternative to SL8 Fakes?

[J.J.]

Wait so TanTan lurks this thread, never chimes in or engages its customer base, but steals photos for Instagram?
I've emailed plenty of my official photos to TanTan for usage and promotion. It's just not great optics to grab photos without tagging. Especially incomplete builds  Sorry @Sander2177

https://www.instagram.com/p/DKMHB6huvkE/

Perhaps others also email their photos to TanTan for usage and promotion?

[Serge_K]

Then get an expensive Chain, wax it and enjoy slow wear rate of the chain and other components. At the end it will be cheaper.

I get 5000-5500km to 0.5pc wear from ybn chains that cost 20 euro, and I've been waxing chains for close to a decade now. I'm yet to be shown that a chain that costs twice as much would last more than twice as long, as I d rather do 2x5000 than 1x10000.
How much mileage are people getting from their chains? I'm on chain 3 on my Tractor.

[glepore]

Thanks
Wheels are superlight for there depth at 1231grams for 60/65 depth
And the tyres at 180grams each with TPU tubes at 19grams.

I have an excel sheet if you want me to email over a copy just DM me.

 
The extra seat post bits have now arrived in the UK so hopefully will get this done by Friday!
Also ordered a new spare seatpost thought it would e a good idea after modifying the other one!

I just swapped the yokes in by drilling out the front one to accept the stock m6 bolt, clamp, cradle and ti bolts were 46g, now with yokes and carbon cradle 23

[jonathanf2]

Another question I've always asked myself is: why do 99% of those who buy a Chinese/Far East frame prefer not to apply the manufacturer/brand stickers?
Or why does this not happen with Western brands even when they do not directly produce the frame, but buy it from an OEM manufacturer?

I'm not a fan of bike logos at all.  I'd hate to have a car with a giant Toyota or Volkswagen logo scrawled across the side! 

[fhold]

That's fair enough 

I've attached the spreadsheet anyway in case it's useful for anyone — hopefully it opens fine.
I’ve also added a few more estimated weights, and once I get the last few bits I'm waiting on (like the XMS chainrings), I’ll update it again.
I could potentially save another ~100g by switching to an 11–34T ZTTO cassette.
I’ve ordered a 50/60 wheelset from XMC which should come in around 1200g — maybe a bit under — though these are intended for the SL8.
I'm also looking into a shallower set of 45/50mm wheels from Zen Carbon, built with carbon/titanium spokes and the new H-Works 20/20 spoke-hole hub that’s due for release soon. That hub is claimed at 227g, which would bring the wheelset to around 1011g.
Alternatively, I can get the same rims built with the H-Works SR270 hub, bringing the total to 1060g ±20g — for $635 USD including taxes and delivery, which is a great price. This setup has a 90kg rider weight limit.
I’ve asked H-Works if they offer the new hub in a 24/24 spoke-hole option, which would increase the rider weight limit. But I’m not sure if the added stiffness and durability would be worth the cost and (possibly negligible) weight difference, especially since the SR270 already weighs about the same.

Thanks for the xls - very helpful. One question though why did you choose the ryet OSPW over the stock one and taking a weight penalty?

[Sander2177]

Thanks for the xls - very helpful. One question though why did you choose the ryet OSPW over the stock one and taking a weight penalty?

I haven’t added up the weights yet, but with the OSPW, direct mount hanger, and pivot bolt, I believe the total weight is about the same as the stock derailleur setup with the Shimano hanger and the supplied frame hanger removed.

I’ve also got a CeramicSpeed OSPW on my SL8, so I’m essentially replicating that setup here. Part of it was just wanting to compare it side by side with the CeramicSpeed, and honestly, I also just like the look of OSPWs—even if the actual performance gains are debatable

[CoreX88]

Wait so TanTan lurks this thread, never chimes in or engages its customer base, but steals photos for Instagram?
I've emailed plenty of my official photos to TanTan for usage and promotion. It's just not great optics to grab photos without tagging. Especially incomplete builds  Sorry @Sander2177

https://www.instagram.com/p/DKMHB6huvkE/

I saw it in Vivian's Status on WhatsApp and was wondering why showing an incomplete build there for promotion? Strange they haven't used my exploded fork for promo, its almost an incomplete build

Joking aside, it's three weeks since my last conversation with them. Looking forward to a new fork, but so far no sign of them. @TanTan Would be nice shipping out the replacement fork incl. the expander soon 

[ufo_dd]

Hi everyone,

I'm currently considering the X68 frame and I'm between sizes 52 and 54 based on my height (1.71m, inseam 82.5).
However, I'm leaning towards the 52, since I have relatively long legs and a short torso, and I prefer a more compact fit.

One issue I’ve come across: with a 300 mm seatpost, I might be cutting it close — especially if the minimum insertion depth is 100 mm. Based on my seat height, that wouldn’t leave me with enough usable length.

So my question is:
Can anyone confirm whether the X68 seatpost really requires a 100 mm minimum insertion?
The SL8 seatpost had only 75 mm, and I’d like to be sure this has changed.

If it’s really 100 mm, I’ll probably need to order a 380 mm seatpost with the size 52 frame.

Thanks in advance for any insights!

[CoreX88]

My seating height with a RYET saddle is 69,5cm (170cm tall and 79,5cm inseam height, Frame Size 52) and I'm right on the "Minimum Insert" line. So you are right, a 38cm seat post will be the better choice. However, I can't tell if it fits the seat tube, especially with a DI2 Battery.

[Sebastian]

I'm yet to be shown that a chain that costs twice as much would last more than twice as long, as I d rather do 2x5000 than 1x10000.
How much mileage are people getting from their chains? I'm on chain 3 on my Tractor.

They don’t. As with many things bike related, more expensive usually just means lighter. Not more durable. I agree that saving weight doesn’t really make any sense with chains. Just like with disc rotors IMO (unless you rarely ever need to brake).
But there are differences IME. I’m only talking about 11 and 12sp here.  I haven’t tried YBN. But I have found Sram chains to wear the quickest. KMC are good value for money. Shimano are solid. But Campy chains outlast everything IME. I’m close to 10k on a Chorus 12sp chain and it just does not seem to wear all that much. It also works very well with hot wax. I’ve found that with the surface coating of some other chains, the wax does not seem to stick very well and they get noisy very quickly.

[Serge_K]

They don’t. As with many things bike related, more expensive usually just means lighter. Not more durable. I agree that saving weight doesn’t really make any sense with chains. Just like with disc rotors IMO (unless you rarely ever need to brake).
But there are differences IME. I’m only talking about 11 and 12sp here.  I haven’t tried YBN. But I have found Sram chains to wear the quickest. KMC are good value for money. Shimano are solid. But Campy chains outlast everything IME. I’m close to 10k on a Chorus 12sp chain and it just does not seem to wear all that much. It also works very well with hot wax. I’ve found that with the surface coating of some other chains, the wax does not seem to stick very well and they get noisy very quickly.

That's interesting! Definitely not interested in light chains that cost more and last less.
When do you swap chains? Because the internet says to swap 11/12s chains at 0.5%, not 0.75%. So, your Chorus chain, at 10k km, you're still below 0.5%?
For reference, YBN chains are well regarded and test well (made in Taiwan, not China, it seems that for chains, it still matters). I've been happy w KMC too. I can't say i tracked it closely, but my sentiment is also that SRAM isn't great (their flat top chains test among the worst, too, another SRAM counterproductive piece of engineering).

Wait so TanTan lurks this thread, never chimes in or engages its customer base, but steals photos for Instagram?
I've emailed plenty of my official photos to TanTan for usage and promotion. It's just not great optics to grab photos without tagging. Especially incomplete builds  Sorry @Sander2177

https://www.instagram.com/p/DKMHB6huvkE/

That is incredibly dishonest. Such shitty behavior from Tantan.

[Sander2177]

Hi everyone,

I'm currently considering the X68 frame and I'm between sizes 52 and 54 based on my height (1.71m, inseam 82.5).
However, I'm leaning towards the 52, since I have relatively long legs and a short torso, and I prefer a more compact fit.

One issue I’ve come across: with a 300 mm seatpost, I might be cutting it close — especially if the minimum insertion depth is 100 mm. Based on my seat height, that wouldn’t leave me with enough usable length.

So my question is:
Can anyone confirm whether the X68 seatpost really requires a 100 mm minimum insertion?
The SL8 seatpost had only 75 mm, and I’d like to be sure this has changed.

If it’s really 100 mm, I’ll probably need to order a 380 mm seatpost with the size 52 frame.

Thanks in advance for any insights!

Not sure about whether you can go down to 75mm on the X68 dont even think I would chance it myself.
I have just cut my X68 seat post by 30mm it but decided to maintain a 100mm insert as recommended.
I have ordered an additional seat post anyway.
I am 178cm and my saddle hight on my 54cm is 74cm

[kubackje]

I get 5000-5500km to 0.5pc wear from ybn chains that cost 20 euro, and I've been waxing chains for close to a decade now. I'm yet to be shown that a chain that costs twice as much would last more than twice as long, as I d rather do 2x5000 than 1x10000.
How much mileage are people getting from their chains? I'm on chain 3 on my Tractor.

I gotta admit you got so much out of cheap chain, good to know. I only use dura Ace chain as I want the fastest shit. Tried ybn sla and it lasted 2000km with wax so pretty shit and didn't think a cheaper version can be so good.

[Davidhe23]

I must update the thread with news. After about 3 months and more than 2000km with my x68 I have decided to buy a fake in yohobikes.
The reasons for the change are that I missed the size and on many occasions my hands fall asleep.
I can't put one It sticks to Tantan's frame, but I think Yohobike's frame will be exactly the same.
I decided to opt for yohobike as Vivian gives too long deadlines, and yoho had a framework in stock. It can be interesting to compare the two frames.

[Sander2177]

I must update the thread with news. After about 3 months and more than 2000km with my x68 I have decided to buy a fake in yohobikes.
The reasons for the change are that I missed the size and on many occasions my hands fall asleep.
I can't put one It sticks to Tantan's frame, but I think Yohobike's frame will be exactly the same.
I decided to opt for yohobike as Vivian gives too long deadlines, and yoho had a framework in stock. It can be interesting to compare the two frames.

Hey davidhe23

What do you mean:

The reasons for the change are that I missed the size and on many occasions my hands fall asleep?
You getting a larger frame or something?