Seraph Bikes Superlight 836g X68 - Alternative to SL8 Fakes?

[Davidhe23]

Hey Davidhe23

What do you mean:

The reasons for the change are that I missed the size and on many occasions my hands fall asleep?
You getting a larger frame or something?

Sander, I'm sorry for my English, but I use a translator.
I currently have an x68 in size 56, with 90mm stem, but during travel my hands usually become numb.
With my height of 178cm and 74cm of leg I think the best option is to move to a size 54.
I contacted Vivian, but the waiting times already know that they are currently insane, so I have decided to do a test requesting the frame from yohobike who have a frame of my size in stock.
It can be interesting to make the comparison between the two brands, although I firmly believe that both are the same bike.

[glepore]

I gotta admit you got so much out of cheap chain, good to know. I only use dura Ace chain as I want the fastest shit. Tried ybn sla and it lasted 2000km with wax so pretty shit and didn't think a cheaper version can be so good.

YBN chains have a reputation for being very fast (see Friction Facts) and they do shift very well. I don't have enough miles on mine to judge wear but they do have a reputation of not being as durable as some others.
They make Campy chains, but to Campy's spec so I don't know that that means anything.

[Sander2177]

Sander, I'm sorry for my English, but I use a translator.
I currently have an x68 in size 56, with 90mm stem, but during travel my hands usually become numb.
With my height of 178cm and 74cm of leg I think the best option is to move to a size 54.
I contacted Vivian, but the waiting times already know that they are currently insane, so I have decided to do a test requesting the frame from yohobike who have a frame of my size in stock.
It can be interesting to make the comparison between the two brands, although I firmly believe that both are the same bike.

Before considering sizing down the frame, it might be worth checking a few setup-related things first. One common cause of numb hands is shifter/hood positioning—if they’re angled too far upwards, it can put your wrists in an awkward position and lead to pressure/numbness. Try rotating them slightly down so your wrists stay in a more neutral position when on the hoods.

Bar width and reach/stem length can also be factors. A shorter or more upright setup can help reduce pressure on the hands. You could also look into padded bar tape or even gloves with better cushioning if you’re not already using them.

A smaller frame might help if you’re really stretched out, but I’d tweak the cockpit setup first—it’s usually a quicker and cheaper fix.

Hope that helps!


 

[Bonus79]

I'm not a fan of bike logos at all.  I'd hate to have a car with a giant Toyota or Volkswagen logo scrawled across the side! 

So you will never buy a frame from a famous brand or if you do buy one you will have the scribbles removed? 

Jokes aside, I don't understand the reason behind this choice...I'm so used to seeing a sticker/writing on the down tube, that without the frame it seems "naked" to me, as if something was missing (this regardless of the brand).

[BeR]

Sander, I'm sorry for my English, but I use a translator.
I currently have an x68 in size 56, with 90mm stem, but during travel my hands usually become numb.
With my height of 178cm and 74cm of leg I think the best option is to move to a size 54.
I contacted Vivian, but the waiting times already know that they are currently insane, so I have decided to do a test requesting the frame from yohobike who have a frame of my size in stock.
It can be interesting to make the comparison between the two brands, although I firmly believe that both are the same bike.

Size 54 without any doubt.

[Sander2177]

So you will never buy a frame from a famous brand or if you do buy one you will have the scribbles removed? 

Jokes aside, I don't understand the reason behind this choice...I'm so used to seeing a sticker/writing on the down tube, that without the frame it seems "naked" to me, as if something was missing (this regardless of the brand).

Love this subject makes me laugh, and as always, opinions are divided.

Whether it has  SL8 decals or not doesn’t really make much difference in my view—there’s no hiding what the frame is an SL8!
Don’t  want people to think your riding an SL8 buy a frame that doesn’t look like an SL8.

Or like Serge_K says you can stick Ass-Works etc on it and make a joke of it.


Yes, I have the decals, and yes, I want  people to think it’s real. That’s essentially why people buy counterfeits: either they can’t afford the genuine article, or they just can’t justify the ridiculously high price tag.

I’ve been open with my cycling mates about what I’m doing, and unsurprisingly, a few of them are pretty interested. After all, £625 delivered with handlebars is hard to ignore.

And if anyone asks, I’ll be upfront with them too.

[jonathanf2]

So you will never buy a frame from a famous brand or if you do buy one you will have the scribbles removed? 

Jokes aside, I don't understand the reason behind this choice...I'm so used to seeing a sticker/writing on the down tube, that without the frame it seems "naked" to me, as if something was missing (this regardless of the brand).

Not really. I don't care about the brands or even bother to watch the sport. I purely ride a bike for fitness. 

[Davidhe23]

Before considering sizing down the frame, it might be worth checking a few setup-related things first. One common cause of numb hands is shifter/hood positioning - if they're angled too far upwards, it can put your wrists in an early position and lead to pressure/numbness. Try rotating them slightly down so your wrists stay in a more neutral position when on the hoods.

Bar width and reach/stem length can also be factors. A shorter or more upright setup can help reduce pressure on the hands. You could also look into padded bar tape or even gloves with better cushioning if you're not already using them.

A smaller frame might help if you're really stretched out, but I'd tweak the cockpit setup first - it's usually a quicker and cheaper fix.

Hope that helps!

I tried my best, I have 90mm power, a difference in height between handlebars and saddles of only 6cm, I was still very stretched on the bike.
I take this opportunity to announce that I sell a Tantan X68 size 56 with only 2000 km at a good price. 

[patliean1]

I messaged TanTan again last night. They won't send me a frame because they aren't trying market the frame. Probably for obvious reasons. But more importantly because the X68 has been flying off the shelves. They don't need to market it anyway. 

[Sander2177]

Ok — the X68 is 99% done and officially rideable now!
Final weight: 6.49 kg

I’ve got a few seat clamp mods still on the way, and I’ll be swapping the chainrings for the XMCarbon ones, but otherwise — it’s done!

The frame had a few minor issues, nothing major. The last thing I had to do was sand the underside of the transition spacer at the back. When tightening the headset, it started rubbing slightly on the frame. The frame curves ever so slightly in that area just beneath the transition cap, whereas the SL8 flattens out at that point.

Anyway going out for a ride this morning!

[Bonus79]

Ok — the X68 is 99% done and officially rideable now!
Final weight: 6.49 kg

I’ve got a few seat clamp mods still on the way, and I’ll be swapping the chainrings for the XMCarbon ones, but otherwise — it’s done!

The frame had a few minor issues, nothing major. The last thing I had to do was sand the underside of the transition spacer at the back. When tightening the headset, it started rubbing slightly on the frame. The frame curves ever so slightly in that area just beneath the transition cap, whereas the SL8 flattens out at that point.

Anyway going out for a ride this morning!

Great job, very beautiful and "bad"! 

[Bonus79]

Love this subject makes me laugh, and as always, opinions are divided.

Whether it has  SL8 decals or not doesn’t really make much difference in my view—there’s no hiding what the frame is an SL8!
Don’t  want people to think your riding an SL8 buy a frame that doesn’t look like an SL8.

Or like Serge_K says you can stick Ass-Works etc on it and make a joke of it.


Yes, I have the decals, and yes, I want  people to think it’s real. That’s essentially why people buy counterfeits: either they can’t afford the genuine article, or they just can’t justify the ridiculously high price tag.

I’ve been open with my cycling mates about what I’m doing, and unsurprisingly, a few of them are pretty interested. After all, £625 delivered with handlebars is hard to ignore.

And if anyone asks, I’ll be upfront with them too.

Obviously I wasn't referring to you or anyone who buys a 1:1 copy of a famous frame...my question concerns all frames "made in China", even those with an original design. 

[Bonus79]

Not really. I don't care about the brands or even bother to watch the sport. I purely ride a bike for fitness. 

I don't care about the brand either (in the sense that I don't follow trends), and even if I follow cycling and sports on TV, I choose a frame because I like the design and geometry, regardless of the brand.....and I'm so used to seeing the brand on the down tube that, if I bought an oriental frame (which I did), it would be natural for me to think of applying the manufacturer's stickers....instead I see that for almost everyone it's not like that, and they prefer to leave the frame "naked".
This thing is curious to me, and I was interested in understanding why....that's all, I would never allow myself to criticize or judge the choices of others. 

[glepore]

Ok — the X68 is 99% done and officially rideable now!
Final weight: 6.49 kg

I’ve got a few seat clamp mods still on the way, and I’ll be swapping the chainrings for the XMCarbon ones, but otherwise — it’s done!

The frame had a few minor issues, nothing major. The last thing I had to do was sand the underside of the transition spacer at the back. When tightening the headset, it started rubbing slightly on the frame. The frame curves ever so slightly in that area just beneath the transition cap, whereas the SL8 flattens out at that point.

Anyway going out for a ride this morning!

Anxiously awaiting your comparison report!

[Sander2177]

Anxiously awaiting your comparison report!

Initial Ride Impressions – TanTan X68 vs SL8

Only about 50 km on it so far, but I’m surprisingly impressed — especially for the price.

In terms of ride quality, I’m genuinely surprised how close this feels to my SL8.

Make no mistake, so far it is not an SL8 — definitely in terms of quality there’s a difference.
   •   Stiffness: Comparable. Out-of-the-saddle efforts feel direct, no noticeable flex. I haven’t pushed beyond ~800W yet, but the front end feels solid — bars feel just as stiff as my Roval cockpit.
   •   Responsiveness: Snappy and lively, the bike reacts well to power input.
   •   Refinement: The SL8 still has the edge — it’s smoother and more polished over rough roads. But honestly, the difference is smaller than expected — not night and day.

There were a few minor build niggles: rear brake mount and BB shell needed some sanding/facing, and I had to file down a spacer near the seat tube to prevent rubbing. These are minor issues at this price point (£625 for the frame).

This experience reminds me of switching from Zipp 303 NSW wheels to the first-gen Winspace Hyper 50s — better performance at half the price. Since then, I haven’t looked back at high-end Western wheel brands. This frame is making me question buying expensive branded frames again — unless the SL9 or a new Venge changes things.

⸻

Recommendations:
   •   Would I recommend this frame? Yes — but with caveats.
   •   It’s an OEM frame, not a retail brand, so after-sales support and customer service vary widely. Some OEMs are great, others less so.
   •   TanTan have a mixed bag of reviews, so buyers need to make their own informed decision about risk tolerance and snappy snappy forks!
   •   If problems arise, you’ll likely need to pay your own return shipping and may face some delays or communication hurdles.
   •   For the price-to-performance ratio, I think it’s worth the risk if you’re comfortable with those conditions.

⸻

Early impressions are very promising. I’ll post more updates after some longer rides.