VeloBuild VB-TT-023

[jjd]

I’m running the RideRever Trivia’s and 2 pairs of blips. Works a-ok for me, no complaints really. Don’t have a huge amount of time outdoors logged on them but they seem to do their job.
Will be doing Lanzarote IM on it in 6 weeks time so they will really get put through their paces their.

Can you post photos of how you routed the hydraulic brake cables? My set of riderever triva brakes is still on its way from Japan and I am currently using cable-actuated brakes. And it is not a good experience so far. I have changed the cables twice and the braking power is still not satisfactory. I have routed the brake cables through the top holes of the stem and brought them inside the stock base bar holes on the lower side. It looks ugly and not so aerodynamic. These cable-actuated cables seem to be so hard to bend and go through the stem as hidden/internal routed cables. I am running 1x sram force with wireless blips so the only cables I have are the brake cables.

[Barry McCockiner]

Can you post photos of how you routed the hydraulic brake cables?

Sadly not, as you wouldn't see anything. Its entirely internally routed. Through the basebar and than through the back of the hole in the clamping area and through the stem

[jjd]

Sadly not, as you wouldn't see anything. Its entirely internally routed. Through the basebar and than through the back of the hole in the clamping area and through the stem

Thank you for the info. Since this will be my last resort (full hydraulic brakes) I don’t want to mess it up. You routed the cables from the calipers to the base bars, correct? Or is it the other way around? I am assuming that these hydraulic brake cables are far softer than the jagwire pro brake kit cables (cable actuated) that I initially used.

[Alexlp]

Can you post photos of how you routed the hydraulic brake cables? My set of riderever triva brakes is still on its way from Japan and I am currently using cable-actuated brakes. And it is not a good experience so far. I have changed the cables twice and the braking power is still not satisfactory. I have routed the brake cables through the top holes of the stem and brought them inside the stock base bar holes on the lower side. It looks ugly and not so aerodynamic. These cable-actuated cables seem to be so hard to bend and go through the stem as hidden/internal routed cables. I am running 1x sram force with wireless blips so the only cables I have are the brake cables.

This is two brakes mecanical cables and one rear derauler mecanical cable.

[Alexlp]

Princeton wheels with mechanical shifting and mechanical disc brakes? Dude...

How does mechanical shifting and mechanical disc brakes affect aerodynamics...

[Hmpf]

I pushed the brake lines through the center hole of the basebar. This hides them completely from the wind.

[Barry McCockiner]

Thank you for the info. Since this will be my last resort (full hydraulic brakes) I don’t want to mess it up. You routed the cables from the calipers to the base bars, correct? Or is it the other way around? I am assuming that these hydraulic brake cables are far softer than the jagwire pro brake kit cables (cable actuated) that I initially used.

Routed from Caliper up through fork out stem and through basebar. Hmpf's picture above is how mine also looks at the stem-basebar junction box.
I've never used mechanical disc brakes but have heard they are notoriously stiff. I let my local bike shop set up the hydraulic brakes and BB while I did the rest.

[womble73]

My tt-023 is built and road ready. If anyone would like close-ups of any bits let me know.

The brake lines feed through the bars straight into the headset and through the frame to come out near where the calliper are mounted.
The cables for the gears if not using remote shifters are a little tricky but run down the bars through the arm pads, come out the back under where the elbows would sit then route into the headset through the 2 eye holes. I have electronic remote shifters so didn't run these.

I had my LBS ran the lines as it is a very tight fit (brake lines only, I didn't have the tools). From what they said you need to tighten the levers in first then pull the cables through to the callipers, mounting the front end as you go. The reverse of how it would normally be done. Also the headset top tightens front to back. Otherwise the bull horns don't sit tight enough to hold riders weight.

I have only done 40km on the bike, before having to take time off due to an unrelated injury. Compared to my other TT bike it feels similar maybe a bit more twitchy, but I had high cross winds and the 80 front wheel was just a big sail pushing me all over the place. About to fit a 50 front, hopefully solves some of the twitchy riding.