Spec and building my 29r

[Vipassana]

You also probably want some crank boots to protect those carbon crank arms from rock strikes.  A set like these:

https://www.google.com/search?q=crank+boots&num=40&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ei=hfdDVdTmCsLcsAWp9YDICw&ved=0CAgQ_AUoAg&biw=1013&bih=564

They come in tons of colors and can be found on eBay and elsewhere for $10-15.

[Sussed.]

^^^^^^ Essential! ☺ ^^^^^^^

[Carbon_Dude]

I agree with Vipassana, go with the 168Q on the GXP XX1 cranks, and you don't need an adapter/spacer in the rear if you are only using a 160mm rotor.

[varanik]

What's the "best" combination of front and rear shock for dual lockout?

I'm getting there... Lol

[Carbon_Dude]

I cannot say what is the best combination of fork and shock are.  I have a Fox CTD front and rear shocks and they work very well together with the SCOTT Twin-Lock lever.  The Rockshox SID and Monarch XX would also be a nice combination with their twin push-lock remote lever.  Not sure if DT Swiss has a combo that works together with a twin lockout lever.

[Izzy]

Why spend the money initially when you don't need to? I would just wait for the bearings to go bad...then switch. Its a 20 min job taking your time and doing some cleaning. The lower bearing can actually be bought separately. The bike shop I used to work for would buy the BB30 bearings from a place that sold nothing but bearings just down the street. They were real cheap. The markup for bearings in a headset (or bottom bracket) is plain ridiculous. Its like buying CO2 cartridges at the bike shop for $4 each...when you can buy a box of 20 on eBay for $20.

My frame came also came with the Neco headset. I didn't use it. I took the two year old FSA bearings from my Specialized and put them in. Going to use it when the FSA bearings go bad.

Hmm. Ok, thanks for that input. I was basing my recommendation on upgrading to the Cane Creek headset over the Neco strictly off of reading other's experiences, so I'm glad to get an opposing viewpoint.

[Izzy]

If that's the kinda budget you're working with then you should just copy Carbon_Dude's build list he posted in this thread.

This.

Carbon_Dude's build is very thought out and doesn't really skimp on any of the components. If you're thinking about SRAM XX1 and asking about the best possible fork and shock for lockout compatibility, then it sounds like you have the budget to just copy the build list he posted in this thread.

[varanik]

Frame arrived!
Starting to assemble all the bits.
Two questions:
- GPX BB comes with two spacers which I suppose need to be installed.
- Rear shock (Monarch) needs some bushings? Any advice where to get them? Do they need bearings?

thx

[Carbon_Dude]

Frame arrived!
Starting to assemble all the bits.
Two questions:
- GPX BB comes with two spacers which I suppose need to be installed.
- Rear shock (Monarch) needs some bushings? Any advice where to get them? Do they need bearings?

thx

Assuming you purchased an IP-036 frame:
1)  For the SRAM GXP BB, you will need to put a spacer on each side.  My GXP BB had the needed spacers included in the box.
2)  You will need the correct bushing/bearing at each end that matches up to your frame.  You should be able to order the bushings from the regular online vendors like CRC.  You first measure the inside dimension of each of your mounting points, they can be different, and order that width, I think the ID of the hole is 8mm.

As a second option, you can spend more money and order needle bearings from RWC (http://enduroforkseals.com/id275.html)

I have a FOX CTD and ended up only needing a different bushing at one end, I think I moved the other bushing from the top of the shock to the bottom as it was the correct size for that mounting position, they installed the new bushing, then installed the shock.