Author Topic: Velobuild AERO GRAV Frame  (Read 5954 times)

RasmusWH

Re: Velobuild AERO GRAV Frame
« Reply #15 on: May 15, 2025, 08:39:26 AM »
the 0mm offset seat post has a one bolt clamp, the 20mm offset seat post has a regular clamp design. I ordered both.

OK, that's great! Wasn't an option when I bought the 268

wintermute

Re: Velobuild AERO GRAV Frame
« Reply #16 on: May 15, 2025, 10:17:31 AM »
If only they'd brought it out to enable 2.2 RK's to fit (so 54mmish clearance).


Edopizzo

Re: Velobuild AERO GRAV Frame
« Reply #17 on: May 20, 2025, 04:38:18 AM »
Finalized my build and going to pull the trigger on the frame soon. 7.3 Kg, less than 2k EU for the road build.
I wanted an lightweight "aero" race gravel frame that could double as a road bike, all with super limited budget. The choice of this frame was easy also due to the fact that in my size it has exactly the same geos as the Supersix Evo4 road bike so it should be good with a proper set of road wheels. For gearing I went 1x12 with 48 front and 10-44 on the back. I've been using recently my cx bike on the road and I've figured out that I want 1x my next road bike, might go for a smaller chainring for steeper gravel stuff, but for now the build is more road focused.
The groupset is a bit of a hack since I'm using Campagnolo Super Record EPS disc 12s levers with the electronic internals replaced by a 3D printed case for Sram AXS wireless blips, so that the lever paddle operates the blip in the lever. The levers are paired with ZRACE XG calipers so in the end they're lighter than the new Red E1 levers.
On the rear I'm going with the Rival XPLR derailleur to keep costs down, I really wanted to go 13 speed but the cost of the Red derailleur and cassette is bonkers, so I'll definitely wait for Rival or Force 13s to upgrade and to benefit of the UDH frame. There was also the option to go Wheeltop Gex with Ekar cassette, but it's also quite expensive and much heavier and I still don't trust Wheeltop. For the cassette I went Goldix as apparently shifts as well as Sram but it's 85g less than Rival.
Crankset is Magene PES because it just works and is very cheap, to save weight you need to spend a lot more if you need a powermeter.
I opted for a semi-integrated setup because I wanted to use the 34cm Balugoe handlebar I already have and I might change the postiton to fit better the situation.
The wheels are my favourite part as I can build myself so I went full custom with XMCS rims paired with Goldix hubs, went 21 spokes in the front to reduce drag and weight. Don't know yet whether I'm going tubeless or clincher GP5k since the rolling resistance is very close but the clincher is substantially lighter and cheaper.

Here is the Excel for the build, feel free to suggest some different parts. The main focuses are cheap and somewhat reliable. I'll post more once I start building the bike.
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1zjmkX3m1XanHHXKSxnJgUpVns5WN1Pmhy9ge7KzAg5U/edit?usp=sharing

adamtce

Re: Velobuild AERO GRAV Frame
« Reply #18 on: May 20, 2025, 06:35:12 AM »
Would you be willing to provide some photos of the build? Maybe even photos of the clearance in the back and in the front, seeing if its maybe possible to squeeze 2.2 tyres in there?

Edopizzo

Re: Velobuild AERO GRAV Frame
« Reply #19 on: May 20, 2025, 06:42:06 AM »
Will take a lot of pictures of the whole build once I'll start around July. I don't know yet which tires to choose for the gravel side since I'm not sure yet of the clearance. I've tried asking Velobuild if 53mm tires would fit but they told me you can try and see...
I'm looking as well to see the maximum clearance.

leogeo

Re: Velobuild AERO GRAV Frame
« Reply #20 on: May 20, 2025, 07:23:46 AM »
Finalized my build and going to pull the trigger on the frame soon. 7.3 Kg, less than 2k EU for the road build.
I wanted an lightweight "aero" race gravel frame that could double as a road bike, all with super limited budget. The choice of this frame was easy also due to the fact that in my size it has exactly the same geos as the Supersix Evo4 road bike so it should be good with a proper set of road wheels. For gearing I went 1x12 with 48 front and 10-44 on the back. I've been using recently my cx bike on the road and I've figured out that I want 1x my next road bike, might go for a smaller chainring for steeper gravel stuff, but for now the build is more road focused.
The groupset is a bit of a hack since I'm using Campagnolo Super Record EPS disc 12s levers with the electronic internals replaced by a 3D printed case for Sram AXS wireless blips, so that the lever paddle operates the blip in the lever. The levers are paired with ZRACE XG calipers so in the end they're lighter than the new Red E1 levers.
On the rear I'm going with the Rival XPLR derailleur to keep costs down, I really wanted to go 13 speed but the cost of the Red derailleur and cassette is bonkers, so I'll definitely wait for Rival or Force 13s to upgrade and to benefit of the UDH frame. There was also the option to go Wheeltop Gex with Ekar cassette, but it's also quite expensive and much heavier and I still don't trust Wheeltop. For the cassette I went Goldix as apparently shifts as well as Sram but it's 85g less than Rival.
Crankset is Magene PES because it just works and is very cheap, to save weight you need to spend a lot more if you need a powermeter.
I opted for a semi-integrated setup because I wanted to use the 34cm Balugoe handlebar I already have and I might change the postiton to fit better the situation.
The wheels are my favourite part as I can build myself so I went full custom with XMCS rims paired with Goldix hubs, went 21 spokes in the front to reduce drag and weight. Don't know yet whether I'm going tubeless or clincher GP5k since the rolling resistance is very close but the clincher is substantially lighter and cheaper.

Here is the Excel for the build, feel free to suggest some different parts. The main focuses are cheap and somewhat reliable. I'll post more once I start building the bike.
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1zjmkX3m1XanHHXKSxnJgUpVns5WN1Pmhy9ge7KzAg5U/edit?usp=sharing


I saw your sheet and have to ask:

Is the Magene Powermeter Crankset compatible with the sram axs xplr rear derailleur?
I am waitinh for this frame right now and i thought that youll need a wider crankset… i have already a rival xplr axs rear derailleur here and also a Rival crankset (wide) but maybe would sell it if there is the option to use a magene

Edopizzo

Re: Velobuild AERO GRAV Frame
« Reply #21 on: May 20, 2025, 07:31:33 AM »
You don't need a "wide" crankset for xplr. It was done to have more frame clearance for the chainring, especially with 2X. The only concerns mounting the Magene on this frame are the fact that Magene says it's not compatible with T47 and the maximum 1x chainring of 46T. However, if the frame protrudes enough on the drive side as I've seen in the pictures, there should be no interference with the powermeter and, since I'm using a 0mm offset chainring mounted on the outside, the clearance is the same as 2x so 53T

Cape_Kirk

Re: Velobuild AERO GRAV Frame
« Reply #22 on: May 20, 2025, 08:49:22 AM »
my Build (when all parts are there):

Velobuild AERO GRAV frame size M in black glossy
integrated handlebar in 380 width, length not sure
sram force d2 brakelevers/shifters/brakes
ali t47 bb
sram rival pm crank (will see if the non wide crank set fits, which is on the old bike)
chainring: old garbaruk aero
gx transmission cassette
gx transmission rear deralieur
wheelset (at first old novatec wheel set, but plan to order easedon 36/45)
tires: conti terra hardpack 50mm (cause of 50% discount on the tires) - tubeless
saddle: specialized power
bar tape: ali
bottle cages: Ali
pedals: Shimano xt from the old bike

leogeo

Re: Velobuild AERO GRAV Frame
« Reply #23 on: May 21, 2025, 03:05:49 AM »
my Build (when all parts are there):

Velobuild AERO GRAV frame size M in black glossy
integrated handlebar in 380 width, length not sure
sram force d2 brakelevers/shifters/brakes
ali t47 bb
sram rival pm crank (will see if the non wide crank set fits, which is on the old bike)
chainring: old garbaruk aero
gx transmission cassette
gx transmission rear deralieur
wheelset (at first old novatec wheel set, but plan to order easedon 36/45)
tires: conti terra hardpack 50mm (cause of 50% discount on the tires) - tubeless
saddle: specialized power
bar tape: ali
bottle cages: Ali
pedals: Shimano xt from the old bike

Have you already got the frame and can upload a picture?

I ordered last week but havent got any tracking info yet… i am waiting for the black glossy one as well

voidptr

Re: Velobuild AERO GRAV Frame
« Reply #24 on: May 21, 2025, 03:16:38 AM »
This will be my first gravel frameset, and I’m still figuring out the right size - especially the stem length.
On my road bike, I usually run a 120–130mm stem. I know shorter stems are common for gravel, but I’m unsure, since I also want to use this as a winter all-road bike.
The geometry is fairly aggressive, so to match my road bike reach, I’d need either a size L with a 90mm stem or a size M with a 100–110mm stem.
Ridley’s configurator recommends size L (185cm, 88cm inseam), but I’m worried I won’t like the handling of a 90mm stem for road use. What are your thoughts regarding transferring road fit to gravel?

conradhughes

Re: Velobuild AERO GRAV Frame
« Reply #25 on: May 21, 2025, 06:08:03 AM »
Anyone know what the right whatsapp number is for VeloBuild? The button on the site doesn't work for me, says 'invalid'. Thanks!

numberzero

Re: Velobuild AERO GRAV Frame
« Reply #26 on: May 21, 2025, 07:09:58 AM »
This will be my first gravel frameset, and I’m still figuring out the right size - especially the stem length.
On my road bike, I usually run a 120–130mm stem. I know shorter stems are common for gravel, but I’m unsure, since I also want to use this as a winter all-road bike.
The geometry is fairly aggressive, so to match my road bike reach, I’d need either a size L with a 90mm stem or a size M with a 100–110mm stem.
Ridley’s configurator recommends size L (185cm, 88cm inseam), but I’m worried I won’t like the handling of a 90mm stem for road use. What are your thoughts regarding transferring road fit to gravel?
It really depends of what you will do with your gravel, if you ride technical terrains you will be better with higher and wider bar and shorter overall reach, if you ride less technical gravel roads where speed is key you will want to mimic the aero road position, long low narrow :)
By the way on pure road us you'll probably find the slack head angle of gravel a bit lazy.
« Last Edit: May 21, 2025, 09:04:00 AM by numberzero »

Cape_Kirk

Re: Velobuild AERO GRAV Frame
« Reply #27 on: May 21, 2025, 08:53:25 AM »
Have you already got the frame and can upload a picture?

I ordered last week but havent got any tracking info yet… i am waiting for the black glossy one as well

Velobuild told me, that the first frames will be ready for delivery end of may. Patience ;)

Yoei802

Re: Velobuild AERO GRAV Frame
« Reply #28 on: May 21, 2025, 09:46:52 AM »
I'm also eyeing this frame...curious what my other USA based compatriots are doing. I want to order this but am I going to get hit with whatever current tariff rate is in place (as of today I think it's 50%?). Still might be worth pulling the trigger...

kubackje

Re: Velobuild AERO GRAV Frame
« Reply #29 on: May 21, 2025, 03:14:16 PM »
This will be my first gravel frameset, and I’m still figuring out the right size - especially the stem length.
On my road bike, I usually run a 120–130mm stem. I know shorter stems are common for gravel, but I’m unsure, since I also want to use this as a winter all-road bike.
The geometry is fairly aggressive, so to match my road bike reach, I’d need either a size L with a 90mm stem or a size M with a 100–110mm stem.
Ridley’s configurator recommends size L (185cm, 88cm inseam), but I’m worried I won’t like the handling of a 90mm stem for road use. What are your thoughts regarding transferring road fit to gravel?

Take into consideration HTA. With 71.5 steering with long stems is slow with longer stems. 90 are perfect for this angle. I have a gravel bike with 71.5 HTA and steering is noticeably slower then my gravel bike with 110 stem.