One point to note, the preload ring is not compatible with SRAM DUB cranks.
The SRAM one has a moveable part that carries the thread, meanwhile all the chinese cranks (LEESE/CYBRE/PASSQUEST/FOVNO etc) all have the preload thread on the ND crank.
But on the other hand, the preload rings for chinese cranks seem to be compatible with each other.
My FOVNO one works fine on the LEESE one.
The problem seems to be with the repair part availability, so far I can only find the preload rings from WEIR (another crank priced very similar to LEESE) sold alone.
Sorting out my crank tomorrow now that I’ve finally got a proper torque wrench coming!
Just wanted to check — for the main axle bolt (drive side), which I believe is steel threading into a titanium spindle:
Have any of you applied anti-seize, grease, or maybe Loctite 243 (blue) before torquing it down?
I’m thinking galvanic corrosion risk here — especially steel/Ti contact, plus potential thread galling.
Plan is:
Clean threads
Anti-seize or Loctite 243 on the bolt threads
Grease under the bolt head
Torque to 40 Nm
Sound solid?
Also working on crank spacing:
I currently have 1.25 mm on the drive side and 1.5 mm on the non-drive. After torquing everything, I might need to shave off 0.25 mm to get perfect symmetry — measured roughly from the middle of the bottle cage mount with a tape, so not super precise, but close.
Trying to dial in the crank alignment as cleanly as I can — yeah, I know it’s probably OCD but half a mm feels like a mile once you’re aware of it
