Kicking Off IP036 Build

[li_bassman]

I am new to the forum and appreciate all the great info in here!!
I looked for info on my questions below but could not tease out the info after hours of reading.

I ran into a forum member who built a IP036 bike at a race and I am hooked on building one (I was looking at the big brands).  I want the FS bike.

I do low level XC races as well as XC 'rides' with friends.  I ride w my wheels on the ground but often encounter significant rock gardens ad roots (ride in NY-New England).  I intend on doing a higher level build (not looking for overkill).
What is important to me is weight and performance - looking for a fast bike with some forgiveness.

Target now is XX1 Group, remote lockout (have not picked suspension yet), dropper post (I'll take a weight penalty for this).  I will copy someone's build list once I am locked in a bit more.

I have a few prelim questions as I put together my order list.
I would like to relax the head angle from 71degrees (ideally to below 70 but I know that is a lot) for some forgiveness.  Seems the best way to do this is to use the longer 120MM travel fork.
       *Any other suggestions how to relax the head angle and by how much (that a newbie can pull off)
       *What will the angle reduce to with 120mm of travel?
       *What is the best reasonable fork/shock combo for my goals (weight, XC w Rocks etc, remote)

Thanks in advance!!!
Doug

 

[Carbon_Dude]

For the HA, the best way to go would be a 120mm fork, not sure if that buys you 0.5 or 1 degree but it is in the right direction.  I don't know of any other way to increase HA that won't cause other issues with the headset.

For me, I like the FOX CTD fork and shock that I have on my IP-036, I use the SCOTT dual lockout lever, works very nice.  You could also do something similar with the Rockshox shock and Fork with a Twinlock lever.  Both are good solutions.

[li_bassman]

I really appreciate the reply.

I'm putting my build list together and post for review.

[d34n]

How are the pivot bearings in these frames? I am guessing I will have to replace them in my Giant Anthem every 2-3 years.. Just wondering how well these hold up?

[Carbon_Dude]

From what I've seen most people get at least a couple years out of the bearings.  Life of the pivot bearings has not been anything riders have been complaining about.

[lexicon]

I went with the 120 mm Reba on my 19" 036. I find it handles great in my twisty rooty rocky singletrack. I went very basic with the rear shock for now, just a Monarch R. I've never felt the need for lockout, for myself, so I can't comment much there - and that shock is possibly a placeholder until I upgrade to a DBInline. It suits my needs, but really I'd recommend going with a shock with more adjustability than just the R.

If you do get a Monarch, also look for their High/High tune assembly, it's more suited to the leverage ratio of this frame. If you do, then you need to be prepared to tear down your shock so be prepared with all the correct documentation, oil, and tools.

[li_bassman]

Thanks for l the answers - I am leaning towards the 2016 Fox Remote 32 float shocks (no more ctd).

The reason being is the remote can support a mid setting which would be my main setting. 

I assume the 44mm offset is the way to go. Has anyone ever used the 51mm offset fox fork (I am trying to relax the bike a bit)?

@carbondude - where can I get a Scott remote from?  Is it just a switch or do I have to remove all the fox remote connections (and do I still order the suspension w remote).

Thanks
Doug

[Carbon_Dude]

I ordered the SCOTT twinloc remote lever through my LBS who is a SCOTT dealer.  I have not seen them available online.  You also need to make sure they order you the right one, Scott makes two different levers, one for the DT Swiss shock (used on the older Scott Sparks), the other for the Fox CTD shock (or newer Scott Sparks).  I've posted info on my decision to throw away the garbage Fox lever and splitter box I originally installed.  The Scott lever is a much better solution.  Here is a link to what it looks like:  https://www.scott-sports.com/us/en/products/238196009/SCOTT-Spark-900-SL-Bike/


You will get one Fox lever with your fork, toss that aside and install the SCOTT lever, then you will probably need some extra cabling to connect your rear shock to the lever as the shock doesn't come with anything.

[lexicon]

My Reba 120 mm is the 51 mm offset version. That's the one I found with the best price and based on anything I'd  read I knew that either would be fine and most likely indistinguishable to me. No complaints.

[li_bassman]

Frame Ordered, wheels, bars ordered from Peter!!

Completing the build list  and I am going w 2016 Fox suspension.

When the frame comes - do I take it apart and lubricate it?
Also I have seen that u should replace the shock bushings.

What do I actually remove and lubricate (and what do I use) and what bushing do I get (I saw rwc mentioned).

I know the info is in the forum but it's a bit hard for me to figure out the definitive info.

Thanks!

[Carbon_Dude]

Frame Ordered, wheels, bars ordered from Peter!!

Completing the build list  and I am going w 2016 Fox suspension.

When the frame comes - do I take it apart and lubricate it?
Also I have seen that u should replace the shock bushings.

What do I actually remove and lubricate (and what do I use) and what bushing do I get (I saw rwc mentioned).

I know the info is in the forum but it's a bit hard for me to figure out the definitive info.

Thanks!

Always nice to see another IP-036 build since I also have one.  After a year of riding it (minus downtime from injuries), I really like having a FS carbon XC/trail bike.

Yes, take apart the pivots and regrease.  Some of the frames have been known to not have much grease around the pivots.  Grease everything that moves to ensure the frame doesn't creak.

For the shock bushings, assuming your shock does not have the right size bushings, you can either buy the inexpensive FOX bushings in the correct size, or you can install the RWC Needle Bearings.  If you do needle bearings, you just need to measure your frame mounting points and call RWC and let them recommend which needle bearings you need.  Here is a link for RWC:  http://enduroforkseals.com/id275.html.  Since there can be some tolerance variation, not sure if every IP-036 frame uses the same size bushing/bearing.

RWC Needle bearing kits are around $32 (and you need one kit for each end) vs Fox bushings are around $10 for each end.  So $64 vs $20 to mount your shock, it's your choice.  In my case I stayed with the Fox bushings and only needed one end, the shock already had the right size bushing at the other end.  So my total cost was around $10 vs $64, the extra cost just wasn't worth it to me and the bushings seem to work just fine.

[lexicon]

I went with the RWC at both ends. I waited until I had the frame, it measured 22.2 mm for both mounts.

It's not be worth the cost to do RWC at both ends - the upper (frame) mount barely moves. There would be zero benefit. I'm pretty sure I read somebody's post here or on mtbr where they were told exactly that by RWC themselves. As far as the benefit/longevity at the swing pivot end - who knows, I chose to believe the hype, and I wanted something special so I went for it.

Their installation and bushing removal tools are very nice.

Here's what I got:
NBKRWC2220R 2         RWC Shock NB Kit, 22.20mm, Red           --> recommend only 1 for the pivot end and standard bushing at the fixed end
DUP2                 1         RWC DU Bushing Pilot                   
NBT2                 1         RWC Shock Needle Bearing Tool           
SS8x17x0.5      1         Shim Kit 8x17x0.5 SS                          --> I got this just in case
 

[RS VR6]

I'm not familiar with the 036...but the other thing you can try is running some offset bushings for the rear shock. That can also slacken the HTA.

There are a few companies that make them...but the only one I can remember at the moment is Burgtec.

[li_bassman]

Are all the frame bushing measurements the same on the IP036 or do I need to wait till the frame comes?

Thanks

In general I think they are the same but it wouldn't hurt to wait until the frame comes so you can get an exact measurement.