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Have you considered the new LCFS904 ?Wow, this almost looks exactly like Spark 2017.
http://www.yishunbike.com/mtb_frames-124-29er-full-suspension-xc-carbon-mountain-bike-mtb-frame-lcfs904-lcfs904
Do the RWC 22.2 on your build list fit? I sent Deng Fu's Picture showing their measurement of 21.94 to Chris at RWC. They suggested using the RWC 21.85 version. Since the way their spacers compress on the bushing, it will be good fit.No idea, it wil take a while to arrive. I was planning to either grind spacers down a bit with a help of machinist friend or send kit back for replacement.
This is quite alarming, the message essentially reads they had issues with moulds apart from the 17.5". Then they go on to say, not to worry as they wont ship out frames with quality issues, obviously not the case as there have been reports of people getting these frames... Klaster, what frame size do you have?The frame is 19". During weeking I've sent a message to Dengfu in order to confirm if my 19" has the issue.
I have just bought a 17.5 M06 fitted a 2017 Fox 165x38....... measured with shock fitted have about 56mm of travel so it should be fine.What mounting hardware width did you use?
For your information , Dengfu reply me :That's confusing. Did I understand it right that all frames shipped prior to quoted reply, except for 17.5" size, had seatstay bridge / seat tube clearance design issue?QuoteHello Charly,
After tested, M06 frame have the problem which you saw on the forum, except the size of 17.5''. The mould has been adjusted, pls find the drawing in attachment.
Don't worry about this, we will not supply any quality issue frames.
Can someone with the frame measure the distance "X", from bridge to seat post when the distance between shock eyelet is 165 mm?About 43mm with a stock 163mm spacer installed, measured along seatstays just like on picture. Should be a couple mm more with a proper shock.
X should be more then 38 mm...
do you have same problem? maybe look that (with 0 bar on your rear shock).I did not put the shock on yet due to missing mounting kits, so can't say for sure. What I can share though might sound both suspicous and reassuring. Without shock, the bridge comes to about 3cm of seattube easily. Then frame starts to resist further compression, but it's possible to make the bridge touch the seat tube, yes. It takes about 7.5kg on pocket scale attached to the rear axle, pulling in direction of shock. I will check everything again when mounts arrive. If problem persists, I'll think about shock spacer. Maybe an offset shock mount can help too?
Next time, you can try this less muscular trick: inflate a tube inside the tire (not mounted) for a few hours or the night before.Interesting advice, never heard this one before. Will a 26 tube fit? I didn't buy any 29 tubes yet.
Another advice is to use a removable-core valve.
And to hear this nice double pop a little bit quicker, spray your tire sides with soapy water. It will pops quicker and with less tire pressure.Yeah, that's what I usually do, but decided to try everything dry to save time. Btw, the tire did stay inflated first night, then at 20h mark it lost the pressure. I hope there aren't any leaks sealant won't fix.
Very interested in the rear shock you select/purchase for this frame.Nothing special, I went with a reasonably priced Manitou Radium Pro. It came with two DU bushings preinstalled.
Would it be possible to see a picture of these bearings when you install the shock, I am a little confused about what is included in the frame purchase, and what additional hardware is required for mounting the rear shock.Sure, I'll post more updates when new items arrive. It will take at least several weeks for RWC bearings. The frame includes only two binding posts (see photo in OP), you have to get two shock mounting kits, exact items depend on what your shock of choice comes with.
What width are your rims?35mm external, 29mm internal, hookless.
Is it the first time you use Extralite hubs?Yup.
And finally what spokes did you use?Pillar PSR X-TRA 1420.
![](http://"http://i.imgur.com/fcGeoSM.jpg")
May I ask why you decided on hydraulic vs mechanical disc? From what I've heard, the new TRP Spyres are pretty good.Sure, Spyre or Juin would be good as well, but I wanted something I had expeience with, since my MTB has BR-M615. Tools and spares I already own played a part too.
First time (well, almost) poster here, took awhile before I've gathered enough courage to post one of my bikes here. It'a Hongfu FM-079, the build was started in 2014. Back then I didn't have any prior experience with road bikes and wanted something more suitable for pavement than an 26" XC hardtail. During June 2014 - March 2015 I've picked, bought and built everything together. Initially, the budget was about 2500USD+ with the following requirements:Due to points above and general lack of expeience, the first version of build came to be about 8.1kg. Summer 2015 helped me to understand where to and how the bike might progress towards. I also got more disposable income to spend.
- Road specific carbon fibre disc frame. After some search, I've picked FM79. Not like there were much other options.
- Shimano 11 speed hydraulic groupset. I wanted something modern and didn't might to become an early adopter. Compatibility with tools and MTB parts already owned played a big role too. Hydraulic shifter options were limited at the day to RS-785 and ST-RS685. Since ST-RS505 wasn't out yet and DI2 was out of budget, 785 became an only option with 5800 filling the rest.
- Tubeless compatible clinchers, but not XC-tier shallow. Light-Bicycle laced to Novatec 711/712 proved to be a good choice, albeit on a heavy side.
During 2016, I've progressively swapped most of easy gain parts to their lightweight counterparts.
Build list as of today:Code: [Select]Component Type Component Weight (Grams) Note
Frame Hongfu FM-079 1040 Claimed weight, 56cm
Fork Hongfu HF-FK166 415 Steerer cut, with crown race; 22.3mm internal diameter
Fork hose clamp Hongfu 3 Two phillips screws and U-clamp
Headset bearings Neco 50 educated guess
Headset cap Neco 11 5mm
Steerer spacer Hongfu 5 1cm
Top cap MT ZOOM 3 Works with sunken expander only
Top cap bolt MT ZOOM 2
Bars Hylix Ergonova 186 44cm, uncut
Stem Kalloy Uno 7 94 11cm, paint stripped
Stem bolts J&L 12 ti, black
Expander plug J&L 12 Tuned, new brass bottom with longer shaft (+5g)
Bar tape Velo Gel Wrap 64 cut
Seatpost (bare) Hongfu 105 Cut off 80mm and 23g; 141 total
Seatpost cradle Hongfu 15
Seatpost bolt 3 ti
Seatpost bolt 4 ti
Seatpost yokes J&L 14 M5, 7075
Seatpost clamp MT ZOOM 10 34.9mm shimmed down to 32.3mm
Saddle Saevid Alien 78
Bar end plugs SRAM 4 educated guess
Crankarms Zipp Vumaquad 442 172.5; with rings; decals sanded down
Chainring big Fibre-Lyte 50
Chainring small Fibre-Lyte 34
Chainring bolts Zipp
Bottom bracket Zipp 72 ceramic bearings
Front deraileur Shimano FD-9000 65 stock
Rear deraileur Shimano RD-9000 161 stock
Shifters Shimano ST-RS785 648
Cassette+lockring Shimano CS-5800 277 11-28
Chain Shimano HG600 246 cut down from 266
Pedals Xpedo R-Force Ti 166
Brake calipers Shimano BR-RS685 218 109 per set
Brake pads+spring 42 21 per set
Brake olives+barbs 14 7 per set
Shifting cables 38 uncut
Hydraulic hoses Shimano 52 2700mm
Rims Light-Bicycle 870 35mm U hookless, 2 total
Front hub Novatec D711SB 139 408
Rear hub Novatec D712SB 269
Skewers J&L 30 Bolt on
Spokes+nipples Pillar PSR X-TRA1420 280 56 total; 4 spares weight 20g
Front tire Schwalbe One Tubeless 370 25mm, used & with sealant stuck
Rear tire Schwalbe Pro One 240 25mm, new
Tire sealant Stan's NoTubes 50 40ml per wheel
Bottle cage TUNE Wasserträger 2.0 9 750ml bottle
Bottle cage bolts TUNE Wasserträger 2.0 2
Rim tape Stan's Yellow Tape 12 6 per wheel
Valve stems Gredes 20 60mm, 10 per set
Front rotor KCNC Razor 61 140mm
Rear rotor KCNC Razor 62 140mm
Rotor bolts J&L 15 ti
Computer sensor Cateye Strada Slim 13
Computer head unit+clamp Cateye Strada Slim 16
Caliper bolts J&L 12 ti
Total 7041
Unfortunately, I didn't weight the frame, headset and housings, so those are listed with claimed values or a rough estimate. To my surprise, scales show exactly 7.00kg, a respectable disc bike weight in my book.
Since the winter is at door, the bike's going to serve as wall decoration until April. I plan to drop the weight down to about 6.8kg mark with these:Obviously, there are more substantial gains, but prices skyrocket fast.
- Schwalbe Pro One in the front, about 70g less than One Tubeless. Already own it.
- XG-1190, still not sure if 11-26 or 11-28, -100-110g.
- PC Red-22 chain, -10-15g.
- Minor derailleurs tuning. J&L inner cage, carbon pulleys, nylon limit bolts and FD clamp bolt will save about 10g.
- Bar tape, current one is way too porky, but it was the only thing I could source locally fast. I'd be glad to drop 10g here.
All in all, I think 6.0kg is possible, but would cost 4000EUR or more and I'm not willing to go down that road.
- Frameset. 250g+ saving can't be made with open mold products of today. Big brands will cost at least 1500USD. New frame also requires thru axle hubs and flat mount calipers.
- ST-R9120 shifters are 150g lighter, but cost about 1000EUR at the moment. Not an option unless price drops at least twice, which isn't going to happen until used units become readily available in several years. Works only with FD-9100 too, so add a new derailleur cost.
- Wheels. Tons of options here. I'd replace Novatecs with Cyber hubs SPD-2 for ~200g saving, but those are not available in 28 holes. All open mold rims weight about the same and I'm not going shallower. 77 Compistes go for 1000EUR apiece, way out of budget. And as a casual rider I'm very hesitant of tubulars. Potentially, there's about 500g to save with top of the line clinchers for 2800EUR.
- Seat/seatpost combo. At least 100g to lose here for a reasonable 400EUR. Still, I will have to be 100% sure about fitting, which I'm not.
- Marginal 10-30g savings everywhere for hunders of EUR. Worth a shot if it's the cheapest option to reach 6.8kg.
Oh, and I don't race or go for really long rides, but riding experience has been great so far. There were some annoying moments, though:Looking back, I'd advice against purchase of FM079 or it's updated version. There are products that offer both lesser weight, flat caliper mounts, 12mm through axle support and no front derailleur clearence issues.
- FM079 has clearance issue with FD-9000 design. The smaller small chainring becomes, the more evident it is. Making 34 shift acceptably was harder than 36, but then again, I don't do that often. Other people already wrote about this several times.
- Overbuilt fork. The steerer tube has quite small internal diameter, I had to heavily modify J&L UltraStar 2 clone so it would fit in.
- Seat tube diameters are off. I suspect that inner diameter is less than it should have been, since stock seatpost measures 27.0mm and fits just great. Outside diameter is 32.3mm, which limits clamp design. Stock clamp with rotating nut works fine, but is way heavy at 25g. MTZOOM 31.8 collar, on the other hand, didn't allow to screw the bolt in due to messed up angle. I had to use 34.9 collar and a shim.
- Frontmost seatpost yokes had to be cut at angle a bit due to interference with Saevid Alien bottom edge.
- New frame had defects missed by quality control. One of the post mount holes wasn't completely threaded, so I had to ask friend with tools to help. The other issue was with one of bolt holes in seatpost head, I had to sand a drop of resin inside one bolt hole in order to put it in.
