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Messages - jonathanf2

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1
big difference between 28 and 38c, but ofc you're not gonna just get them off by hand, if that's enough that tyre was going anyway

Naw, I would go straight to 30c or even 32c tires if on a hookless 25mm internal. Though wide tires on road bikes aren't my thing unless I was doing more of an endurance style build.

2
I'm just curious, were those recent race blowouts with hookless wheels on 25mm internal width wheels? At least on my gravel bike running 25mm internal width on 38c tires, that tire is on so tight even if it were to break the bead, I don't see the tire coming off. It was already hard getting them on and I was able to bead the tire with just a regular floor pump. Hookless at least for gravel has been great for me.

I would consider hookless on my road bikes, but I tend to prefer 25c tires since I feel more agile road climbing at that width.

3
I was switching out my front derailleur shift cable on my gravel bike and I noticed there was some rust on it. I replaced the cable and put this rubber protector right at the end of the plastic guide tube to prevent water ingress on both the FD and RD. It can also be used with mechanical brake cables as well.

https://www.aliexpress.us/item/2255800590400115.html


4
The iiiPro post and flat mount brakes share similar components like bleed screw. I'm curious if I could use the post mount brakes on a gravel build for more stopping power.

5
Nice build! It's bikes like this that always impress me the most. Priced reasonable and everything looks to be solid. Plus we ride the same size, I feel like I could just hop on that bike and start riding! Lol

6
I am really split. I am fine doing some work on the frame but really want to avoid needing to replace it right away. Spcycles has some of the same molds as Velobuild. Is their quality any better?

I like SPcycle. They're straight forward and ship fast. Only downside is that my frame didn't come with plastic guide tubes (easy to route though) and the paint easily scratches. I would buy from them again if they had a frameset I wanted.

7
Whoa, the EDS TX weather sealing is impressive! The ER9/X would be flat out dead if they tried this test!

https://www.facebook.com/reel/744011111161408

8
Cyclocross Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: LTWOO eGR
« on: May 22, 2024, 12:20:13 PM »
Has anyone considered building or has built a 1x road or light gravel bike (like 32c tires) using the eGR? It might be fun to build an lightweight climbing frame with the groupset.

9
I've transferred components multiple times to different frames. You'll most likely run into issues, spilt hydraulic fluid and questioning your life decisions. At that point go to bed and start fresh the next morning! The bike building skills you'll develop will rival all but the most old school LBS mechanics. Nowadays, I feel I can tune any bike into perfection. Don't be shy and feel free to ask questions!


10
Cyclocross Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: LTWOO eGR
« on: May 21, 2024, 05:43:59 PM »
Could you share photos of the relevant area of the RD and a link with the things you've applied?

It's nothing fancy. I just used Elmer's rubber cement glue with a brush that I coated around the battery cable. Plus a $2 USD packet of dielectric grease from the auto store that I applied with a toothpick. It just looks like gunk around the cable, I'm not sure there's anything worth looking at.

11
Cyclocross Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: LTWOO eGR
« on: May 21, 2024, 01:07:17 PM »
I only applied the rubber cement on the outside, but it dries and solidifies around the plug. After that I apply the dielectric grease as a secondary layer. I didn't like the idea of just using dielectric grease by itself since it's easy to take off. I figure the rubber cement should ward off most moisture, while the dielectric grease would be like frosting on a cake.

I got the idea because I had a leaky water sprinkler at my house and I sealed it with rubber cement. It actually did a very good job fixing the problem.

12
Cyclocross Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: LTWOO eGR
« on: May 21, 2024, 11:55:08 AM »
people have had success using liquid electrical tape around the RD cable plug. i bought a bottle myself but i don't have a thingy precise enough to squeeze out the stuff with any precision, so i'm not sure how to seal it efficiently. the stuff is sticky and dries super fast so it's not forgiving at all.

I used liberal amounts of rubber cement on the battery cables. It's a non-permanent adhesive seal that's easy to rub off. I then put dielectric grease on as a second protective layer. I haven't rode the bike in the rain, but it's been adequate against random water puddles and other wet areas. The only issue is that the dielectric grease attracts a bunch dust/debris. I'm thinking, maybe using rubber cement and then applying heat shrink plastic might be a cleaner solution.

13
This is pretty dumb. How hard is it to assign a serial # to each groupset? Their warranty process is just pure laziness. The EDS TX is already in Shimano 105 Di2 AliEx pricing territory. At least with the 105 Di2, spare parts are plentiful and quality assurance to chance buying from a reseller is much better.

14
where are you located?

Southern California. When it does get wet here, I usually just take my mechanical GRX gravel bike.

15
Yikes! Mental note, don’t use pedal extenders!  :-[

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