Chinertown
Chinese Carbon MTB => 29er => Topic started by: ebruner on June 22, 2016, 08:47:38 AM
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I've been looking for a 29r hard tail as a low maintenance training, racing and long distance bike. I've got a giant trance 275 that is biased towards all mountain/trail/enduro so this bike is built to compliment that. I ended up with alot of extra and takeoff parts over the last few months so fortunately, a decent amount of this build is coming off the shelf.
The goal of this build is to build this XL frame into 23.5 LB trail bike that can do the occasional XC race. We have a local racing series here called over the hump that favors a hard tail setup. This bike will be built for that purpose but I am going to keep a certain amount of comfort so that it can do long distance socal chunky trail riding. I'll be counting grams, but I'll be giving up a few in the name of comfort and ride ability.
This should end up a mix of new and used parts with the goal of only spending around 1200 dollars beyond the parts I have laying around to build it.
Step one... Procure frame.
CS-057 in XL - 21" I was able to pick this frame up second hand but still new off the classified section. My 8 month old kitten Lucy is currently welcoming this new rig into the stable.
(http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z65/orlyerin/IMG_03361_zpshdrb00ma.jpg)
I've been sniping deals for the last 3 weeks locally on craigslist and a few on ebay. One of the big wins for me was this set of Easton Haven Aluminum Wheels. This wheelset is very light for a 21mm ID aluminum set but the Achilles heal of this wheelset is the M1 rear hubs. They are known for having issues with rear axle flexing and then in causing issues with the free hub. Easton upgraded the rear axle and bearings to fix this problem. Fortunately for me this wheelset already has the upgrades. The only downside is that this comes with an sram XD freehub body and I am going to be using shimano 10 speed for now.
Anyway, 180 dollars later I have a 1700 gram wheelset that came with new condition Maxxis Ikon in 2.35 and a 2.4 Maxxis Ardent. Score!
(http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z65/orlyerin/IMG_20160618_2037041_zps2i9fn7zu.jpg)
(http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z65/orlyerin/IMG_20160618_2036421_zpsjfotf5e8.jpg)
(http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z65/orlyerin/IMG_20160618_2037531_zpsai8gofnq.jpg)
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Great deal on those wheels for sure! Cute kitty, we have two fur balls ourselves, one of them is my avatar.
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I'm jealous of the deal you got on those wheels! Also, I'm glad to hear that the classifieds section of the forum is actually becoming useful for some people.
Looking forward to seeing the build!
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Another day and some more parts have rolled in.
(http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z65/orlyerin/d6ab0811-e54d-4ad0-b607-f321f1f3e64c_zpsoqrrybne.jpg)
-Raceface next low rise 720mm handle bars - a cool 130 grams :)
-160mm Shimano Brake Rotor (I have a matching brake rotor in the parts bin for the other end of the bike)
-RWS Ethru axle
-OEM TA
-Seat Clamp
-Extra dropouts
-Shimano Bleed kit
I was able to scoop these handlebars up for a steal. I likely should have gone with a flat bar on this bike, and I may make the switch based on my bike shops recommendations when I have a fit session for this frame.
Fortunately the frame came with the RWS axle and the extra dropouts. Iv'e got a red seatpost clamp I'm going to use instead of the green one.
All of the remaining parts for this thing are on the way. I should have everything in hand within the next week.
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130g for the handlebar... pretty cool. I thought my 189g bars were light (725 mm, low rise as well).
What stem do you plan to match these bars?
EDIT: strange, I've been googling Race Face Next bars and I don't see them anywhere around 130g. They all show around 170-210g depending on size. Can you confirm that 130 is not a typo?
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If you decide to go with a flat bar, let me know, I like those RaceFace bars you have!
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130g for the handlebar... pretty cool. I thought my 189g bars were light (725 mm, low rise as well).
What stem do you plan to match these bars?
EDIT: strange, I've been googling Race Face Next bars and I don't see them anywhere around 130g. They all show around 170-210g depending on size. Can you confirm that 130 is not a typo?
they weigh 130 on my scale. They are 2012 raceface next bars. When I look these up on bike scale and on the RF site they list as 165. I suppose they could be knock offs?
Since every post is useless without photos... Here's a few pictures of my last 29r build from a few years ago. This was a Kona Taro built up into a budget all mountain build. I actually really loved this bike and I still regret selling it. I'm hoping that this CS-057 will fill in the hole in my stable that this bike left (and then some).
One thing that was special about this bike was the Sektor fork. I did a full motion control damper retrofit from the revelation in this fork. I will be doing something similar for the fork on this bike, stay tuned for more.
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8400/8748352798_bf433e3d57_c.jpg)
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8113/8748348752_9ae5781240_c.jpg)
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7313/8748356450_078e3a744e_c.jpg)
(http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z65/orlyerin/IMG_20150821_180127_zpsmugxuqnr.jpg)
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20% below listed weight... I've never heard anything like that. If you were planning serious enduro I would be concerned. But it should be OK for XC racing
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20% below listed weight... I've never heard anything like that. If you were planning serious enduro I would be concerned. But it should be OK for XC racing
Good point. Since this build is meant to replace your all mountain Taro, then those bars may be a bit too light for your purposes. That said, I know Race Face has a good rep and make quality products but still.. something to consider. Or like you said, could be knock-offs.
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More parts streaming in and some getting dusted off the shelf to be put to duty.
Parts haul for today.
(http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z65/orlyerin/IMG_0351_zpsoxmtwoct.jpg)
-Sram S1400 GXP cranks and bottom bracket - Scored this one for $65 off ebay
-Giant Contact SL Upright saddle - $35 dollar ebay score
-Sram X-Sync 28t steel spiderless chain ring
-Easton Shimano 11spd M1 freehub body
-KMC 10SL chain
-stans valves, esi silicone frame protection tape, shift cables, wolf tooth b tension screw
Shelf haul.
(http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z65/orlyerin/IMG_0352_zpszjzwkegw.jpg)
-Praxxis 10spd wide range cassette
-Deore M610 brakes
-XT Shifter
-SLX 10 spd derailleur
-Shimano PD-M540 pedals
-Diety Seat Clamp
Getting closer. Only like 3 more packages to come in and I've got everything.
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ebruner - saw the Kona photos, but had to notice the Miata. Beautiful color, looks like a serious bar. Curious to see more about that. :D
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ebruner - saw the Kona photos, but had to notice the Miata. Beautiful color, looks like a serious bar. Curious to see more about that. :D
Sure thing. That's my other money sink other than bikes. It's a 99 miata that's been converted to track only. In that photo it was still street legal but since then has been taken off the street.
The 3/4 cage was put in when the car was street legal and is just now being taken out and converted to something much crazier. The work was done by Blackbird Fabworx and that's who is doing the new work.
Quick spec sheet:
-99 chassis
-03 motor with standalone ecu, headwork, intake/full exhaust, e85. Makes about 160whp/130tq on a good day.
-Substantial suspension work: no expense spared dampers, sways, delrin bushings
-15x9 wheels, 225/45 hoosiers, aero work, etc
Over the past years I've been building it up as a street legal time trial car. I competed in redline time attack, scca pro-tour autoX, nasa tte, etc. The car is currently being torn down again to be converted to a windshield less wheel to wheel racing car. Basically it will look like the white one in the photo on the bottom in about 2 months time.
As a street car.
(https://c8.staticflickr.com/8/7078/7137353775_2e2775ab85_b.jpg)
(https://c3.staticflickr.com/8/7199/6991271578_f07ac59d07_b.jpg)
Time Attack Car
(https://c7.staticflickr.com/4/3860/14999806918_6954a685ea_b.jpg)
Currently being converted to match the white car on the right.
(https://c3.staticflickr.com/4/3849/15163352066_e52bcbec1a_b.jpg)
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Whoa, crazy! I love it! Must be a blast to drive as is, looks like it'll be even more awesome. Thanks for sharing!
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Now that looks like an expensive hobby!
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Now that looks like an expensive hobby!
Part of why I got out of it. Also realized that with a bike, you could strip it to the frame, hand wash *EVERYTHING*, and reassemble in the course of a day. With a car, that's a long term project. :)
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Got some more parts in and made some headway. Unfortunately my headset and seatpost did not come in on friday like they were supposed to. Headway was some what slim just because I was missing those small parts. >:(
Anyway, got a few things done anyway. Got the frame in the stand and the bottom bracket and cranks installed.
(http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z65/orlyerin/IMG_20160625_100430_zpsfxptltno.jpg)
I converted the XD freehub body to Shimano x11. Turns out I needed new axle caps as well, so that's a slight road block but they are now on order.
(http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z65/orlyerin/IMG_20160625_102103_zpsecon8msz.jpg)
Installed the E-thru axle. Seems like loctite is smart at the set screw location.
(http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z65/orlyerin/IMG_20160625_101015_zpsbl8g1tjo.jpg)
I was able to scoop up a brand new 2015 Rockshox Recon Gold TK for 225 dollars shipped. I'm going to be replacing the damper internals for motion control units from the sektor/recon gold RL so the TK damping doesn't bother me for now.
(http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z65/orlyerin/IMG_20160625_171030_zpssxvtcp4g.jpg)
I've been burned many times on brand new forks. Pretty much every brand new fork on the market from fox/rockshox ship with not enough oil in the lowers. I always do a lower leg service before I install my forks... this one was not an exception.
(http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z65/orlyerin/IMG_20160625_165956_zpsef5pu2rs.jpg)
Bone freekin dry. If you rode your fork like this you'll damage the stantions in under 20 hours of riding.
(http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z65/orlyerin/IMG_20160625_170007_zpsjf5vhu38.jpg)
Fox 20wt gold is a tad thicker then the rockshox manual tells you to use. I do however love this stuff for lowers because it stays tacky and keeps everything flowing smooth.
(http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z65/orlyerin/IMG_20160625_170034_zpsfp1fdbcw.jpg)
The remaining parts come in today... I should be able to make big headway now.
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I've been burned many times on brand new forks. Pretty much every brand new fork on the market from fox/rockshox ship with not enough oil in the lowers. I always do a lower leg service before I install my forks... this one was not an exception.
That's a damn good approach - the SID on my Epic was pretty much dry, discovered that on our trip in Utah. Shop there did a rebuild overnight and it's been good since. I don't like doing fork service but I'll be doing the same with any new forks.
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Now that looks like an expensive hobby!
That's what I like with bicycles. You can get the same kind of the gear the top pro have, for a "relatively" low budget.
Although I tend to stop looking after the build price, and trying to ignore all the recurring costs and accessories/upgrades :)
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I elected to use a nashbar house brand carbon seat post for this build. It's better quality than I thought it would be and decently light. The only problem is that I ordered a 400mm version figuring that would be best for the XL frame. Man I was way off. Rolled the dice and decided to cut this one.
(http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z65/orlyerin/IMG_20160628_175701_zpsowzwqvjt.jpg)
Done and installed.
(http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z65/orlyerin/IMG_20160629_0608181_zpsredr2li6.jpg)
I'm really liking this giant seat with this frame/fork color combo.
(http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z65/orlyerin/IMG_20160629_0608361_zpspz6vwucp.jpg)
I got the drive train put on. Still waiting for the hub end caps so that I can properly bolt it together. I had to replace the clutch mechanism on this SLX derailleur. There is a stamped metal tab in these that is known to break and the one on this derailleur looked shady. Praxis wide range 10 speed cassette installed along with the chain, cranks, pedals.
(http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z65/orlyerin/IMG_20160628_194257_zpsryu3rssw.jpg)
Front end coming together. New brake pads and fresh bleed on both ends.
(http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z65/orlyerin/IMG_20160628_194429_zpszbiw6uhl.jpg)
Cockpit mostly together. I still need to get the fit correct and then cut down the steer tube. Everything else is just about in place here. This is my first carbon bike build. I ended up using carbon paste on the stem, brake and seat post unions. No idea if that's right or not.
(http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z65/orlyerin/IMG_20160628_194440_zpsy5zaqbhd.jpg)
I'm giving these Redmonkey clamp on silicone grips a try. These guys are a local company and they seem to know silicone grips well. This is my first experience with any sort of silicone grip so I'm taking a half step... I'm not sure I'm ready to give up both a my odi ruffians and lockon grips all at the same time. Baby steps...
(http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z65/orlyerin/IMG_20160628_195155_zps5kokahvd.jpg)
And lastly, it's not always rosy in craigslist bargain sloothing land. These tires were caked in old crusted stans fluid. I started out telling myself I was just going to clean the beads off and then the OCD kicked in. Ugghhh my hands hurt and the two ballest point sculpin's that this took to complete gave me a little buzz.
(http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z65/orlyerin/IMG_20160628_195909_zpsco3uaa1h.jpg)
Done...
(http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z65/orlyerin/IMG_20160628_200712_zpsnshfk89t.jpg)
A few things left to do:
-Replace the stans valve stems. They apparently do not seal with the easton haven wheelset.
-Get Hub End Caps - I ordered these from bikeman.com because they were in stock. Huge mistake. I bought them 4 days ago with overnight shipping and they haven't shipped them yet. I deserve this for not going through my LBS... le sigh.
-Verify Fit
-Cut steer tube
-Mount bottle cages
-Install frame protection
-Check Torque on everything
I was hoping to have this thing rolling by now but the few little hiccups that have showed up have slowed that down. Oh well, I guess I'll spin a few more miles on the squishy one.
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OT: That Miata is just gorgeous man!
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Thanks for the miata comments. The photos should be fixed and showing up. I'm a firm believer that every post is useless without pix, so here's two more.
(http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z65/orlyerin/IMG_20160628_194453_zpsdgz5uyvq.jpg)
(http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z65/orlyerin/IMG_20160629_0608041_zpsuelquhg5.jpg)
Starting to look like an actual bicycle. Getting very close to the maiden voyage.
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(http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z65/orlyerin/IMG_20160628_194453_zpsdgz5uyvq.jpg)
Yer killin' me! I see a SAAB sticker. Had a 1971 96 with the V-4. Loved that car.
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Looks quite good so far! :-)
Will you shorten the front brake hose? To me it seems pretty long.. Or do you wait until you habe your final cockpit-setup?
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Commentary to follow soon. For now here's a few photos.
(http://www.miataturbo.net/attachments/insert-bs-here-4/175862-if-fema-had-bicycles-would-fund-hustlers-manlet-bib-80-ebb_1382_6a8dc43c56526d2ace7f0ba9aa11855840ef1a5e.jpg?dateline=1467473006)
(http://www.miataturbo.net/attachments/insert-bs-here-4/175863-if-fema-had-bicycles-would-fund-hustlers-manlet-bib-80-ebb_1385_9af0ee07930e032d6abc5a1105b19bc4abda2c2f.jpg?dateline=1467473006)
(http://www.miataturbo.net/attachments/insert-bs-here-4/175864-if-fema-had-bicycles-would-fund-hustlers-manlet-bib-80-ebb_1387_9bc07df8d96413fc7dde8fa83161a660e5307863.jpg?dateline=1467473006)
(http://www.miataturbo.net/attachments/insert-bs-here-4/175865-if-fema-had-bicycles-would-fund-hustlers-manlet-bib-80-ebb_1390_4e392d140fce3f78b5a33b05aedade3b0e39e91f.jpg?dateline=1467473006)
(http://www.miataturbo.net/attachments/insert-bs-here-4/175866-if-fema-had-bicycles-would-fund-hustlers-manlet-bib-80-ebb_1391_6ddd28b6c6ef89836bbe165da98bab823065c05c.jpg?dateline=1467473006)
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Wow that looks great
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Sooooooo, looking closer at your photos, I question if that's actually an 057 frame. Most of it looks right, but the seat stay to seat tube junction isn't 057 design. It's a little bit 256 or 529ish.
Unless that is just 21" only design, my 19" has a much shorter junction as seen in this picture. I also think the 057 seat stays are a little thicker than yours.
(http://i794.photobucket.com/albums/yy230/325racer/Bikes/Carbon%20Hardtail/DSC03302_zps4239987e.jpg)
(http://i794.photobucket.com/albums/yy230/325racer/Bikes/Carbon%20Hardtail/DSC03307_zpsfc8cbcd1.jpg)
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I don't know about that, his top tube looks just like my IP/CS-057.
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Whoa lots of nice pics.. Thanks for sharing.
You guys are both right.. The top tube is an exact 057 match but the seat tube junction is definitely different. Like 325 said, it's could be because it's the 21" version.
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Whoa lots of nice pics.. Thanks for sharing.
You guys are both right.. The top tube is an exact 057 match but the seat tube junction is definitely different. Like 325 said, it's could be because it's the 21" version.
You might be right. Given the extra tall top tube, they didn't make the seat stay junction the same as the other -057 frames.
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@ebruner.... Nice looking build and a well-documented!
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Ok so I figured it's time for an update. This bike has seen quite a bit of adjustments since it first saw dirt. I actually ended up crashing on it on my second ride and breaking two ribs, so that was great. It was a rough start to our relationship but we're rebuilding trust and things are starting to get freaky now.
At any rate the goods:
Overall impressions of the bike and the ride are impressively positive. I went into this not expecting much just to not get my hopes up. I've come away really enjoying riding this bike. I initially built it for racing and pure long mileage xc rides and it's taken a bit of a turn for a more trail build. It turns out my riding style (which results from the brutal socal terrain) is a bit on the aggressive side and it's necessitated some changes to the initial setup I had.
I basically have the bike setup for two distinct modes. To swap back and forth between every day grab and go trail bike to XC bike mode I swap out a few parts; Dropper post for Carbon, Tires swapped to racing ralphs and if I feel like it, fork dropped to 100mm. That drops the weight from 25lbs dead nuts to 23lbs.
Changes I made from the initial build:
-Handlebars - 620mm "Raceface" Riser bar swapped for 780mm flat nashbar carbon handlebar
I literally broke the knock off Raceface next riser bar in my garage before ever riding on the trails. It turned out to not be a big deal because I need a flat bar with this frame anyway. These nashbar handlebars are a bit stiffer then they need to be but they were insanely cheap and they keep it light.
-Seatpost - Nashbar Carbon Seatpost swapped for KS 900r Non Remote seatpost
I like to ride steep, chunky, technical socal single track. I tried doing average trail riding in gut punch high post mode and I nearly died. I chose to use a seatpost without a remote so I could easily swap back the carbon post with carbon seat back on for race weekends. It's slightly annoying but it works with the theme of this bike as my beater low maintenance xc bike.
-Fork - RS Recon extended to 120mm and Revalation RCT3 internals installed
I'm still on the fence about the 120mm fork. I like what it has done to the handling overall and riding position on steep stuff. It has however contributed to a slight bit of lumberiness (yes that's right, i made that word up) to the front end. Leaning the bike over still feels exaggerated and lumbery and it has a smidge of sit up and beg feeling to the bar height. I'm going to ride the bike like this for a few months and drop it back to 100mm for racing season.
What I'm most definitely not on the fence about is the upgrades I made to this Recon. I added the RS Revalation RCT3 Compression and Rebound dampers. I also added the rev air spring side top cap that allows the usage of tokens. Fork is superb and comes in only weighing 4lbs dead nuts after the internals swap.
-Tires - 2.4" Maxxis Ardant Front swapped for 2.35 Maxxis Forekaster
I hated the maxxis Ardant. I do however love the air volume that the 2.4" ardant casing has. I tried out this Forekaster on a whim and I'm happy with it. The 2.35 Ikon is a great rear tire for our socal conditions so that has remained. I've got a set of Schwalbe Racing Ralphs that I throw on for XC races. These tires are definitely my daily ride tires for our dry conditions. I may try a specialized butcher/slaughter combo next.
-Derailleur - 10spd SL swapped for 11 speed XT
I'm still running the drivetrain in 10 speed config but with a wide range cassette. No matter what I tried the 10spd SLX derailleur wouldn't come off the big ring to my liking so I swapped it for an m8000 model. Nuff said.
-Grips - ODI TLD lock ons swapped for Ergon GE-1
I've put these on all of my bikes... I'm in love. I can't run anything else at the moment.
-Brakes - 160mm front swapped for 180mm front
I was burning down the front rotor on 3mi + hammer fest descents. It freaked me out 1 time too many and I decided to make the switch.
Pictures... (sorry for the crappy phone camera pix)
Trail mode but fork in 100mm
(http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z65/orlyerin/IMG_20161113_161414_zpsop0wcnbo.jpg)
(http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z65/orlyerin/IMG_20161208_183146%201_zpsqnktn5w9.jpg)
(http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z65/orlyerin/IMG_20161122_150823_zpshb5inf9a.jpg)
(http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z65/orlyerin/IMG_20161006_172959_zpsbptvtiuu.jpg)
(http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z65/orlyerin/IMG_20161006_172826_zps0eif3kv6.jpg)
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Nice bike and landscape!
You probably don't measure how lucky you are not having mud for an half of the year.
I broke two ribs too at my first ride, it took me 6 months to restart, but in the end, it made me stronger :D :o
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Nice write up, thanks for talking the time to share.
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Nice build Ebruner.
What did you use to make your skeam ?
On my IP-256SL, I swap use of shifter holes. I used the hole for the front shifting cable for the rear shifting cable. Doing it this way, I've got a really nice curves for the cable which don't touch/rub the frame anywhere.
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Nice build Ebruner.
What did you use to make your skeam ?
On my IP-256SL, I swap use of shifter holes. I used the hole for the front shifting cable for the rear shifting cable. Doing it this way, I've got a really nice curves for the cable which don't touch/rub the frame anywhere.
thanks! what do you mean by "skeam"?
Nice tip on the shifter housings. on this frame they are fully internally housed so I'm not sure how I would do that.
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Sorry, type, I mean skean. That's a top tube protector, like the image below. I made is with an old inner tube and some electrical tape, which do the job. But yours is less obtrusive.
(https://www.bikerumor.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/10/skean-top-tube-protector3.jpg)
It's just as easy with or without full housing.
The cable holes in my frame were intend to use the cables without full housing, so I drilled out the cable hole for the front derailleur.
After this I could run the rear derailleur cable full housing through this hole.