Nice sleek looking build ! 

I bought the remote fork and remote shock separately and ordered a remote lever.  I ended up with three levers  ! ☺

Sold two on ebay to recoup some costs and kept one as a spare as like CD eventually fitted the Scott Twin-Loc as it is far superior !

A Franktastic build ! Nicely done, love it !

"I'm still having trouble grasping the bottom bracket option. Does Shimano make both kinds? "

I'm pretty sure Shimano stick to the BSA threaded option.  Adapters are available to convert BB30 for Shimano cranks, probably best avoided if you are buying new. 

If you are going with a Shimano crankset I would order the frame with BSA BB. 

With the IP-036 the cable routing for the FD is underneath the downtube, passing under the BB shell and into the rear swingarm.  This means the FD needs to be a bottom pull direct mount (The frame has a mounting point to bolt on the FD instead of using clamp).

Hi Gabby,

Good choice on the IP-036 !

The IP-036 will come with a tapered headtube so you will need to buy a tapered fork, which will be a  1.1/8 - 1.5" Tapered.
(You can buy forks with straight steerers but will need headset adapters, this can be avoided if you are buying new)

The rear shock size will be eye to eye 165mm (6.5")

The headset will also need to be tapered.  Cane Creek do a mix and match range, top bearing cup Inner diameter is 42mm

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/cane-creek-40-series-is42-top-assembly/rp-prod115645


The lower bearing cup Inner diameter is 52mm

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/cane-creek-40-series-is52-40-bottom-assembly/rp-prod115643

There are many different options available !  Your chindor can also include one with the frame if you ask.  Many on here have used that option (Neco/FSA)

You can specify which Bottom Bracket you want your frame to be.  I went with BB30, the down side to BB30 is that you need specialist tools to fit the bearings.  If you go with BSA the bearing cups screw into the frame so is much easier to fit/replace yourself. 

As for which FD I cant really help.  I went with a 1x11 set up so I did zero research on the FD !  I'm sure others will be along to chip in with advice on that !

Good luck with the build and ask about anything you have doubts on, everyone on here is super helpful !

135mm or 142mm refers to the distance between the dropouts where the rear wheel fits into the frame.  If you are re-using the same wheels or the Black Flags you will need probably need a 135mm Frame. (Also referred to as Standard QR !) You can double check this by getting a tape measure/calipers and measuring the distance between the drop outs on the Jamis.



(Photo pinched from google images)

Hope this helps.

Great write up Carbz ! 

I agree that SRAMs bearings don't seem to last.  My drive side bearing has become a bit gritty, I have cleaned it up as best as I can but there is still a crunchiness to it.

I have a replacement ready to go and will swap it out when it gets to the point of really annoying me !