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Messages - Wet Noodle

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 7
1
After The Ride / Re: Flakey Aliexpress App!
« on: March 06, 2024, 01:13:20 PM »
After a certain amount of coins, I think it's a waste of time. It's not like you can apply $1000 USD worth of coins at one time.

That's not wrong, but at that point you'd already have spent an absurd amount of time (or caught some once-in-never coin bump). But generally, you can spend quite a bit in coins on the mobile or app version of the coins page.

2
After The Ride / Re: Flakey Aliexpress App!
« on: March 04, 2024, 05:06:46 PM »
Totally not what you asked, but still: Try the More-Coins thing in a mobile browser instead and you might save a few seconds here and there ...
Also, with an actual browser, you can easily switch user agents to get another 40 coins at the desktop version of the site. Last but not least, TABBED BROWSING! I mean, holy F, ali is just not usable without tabs.

I would only use the app for stuff that just doesn't work in a regular browser (like some of the games or extra 5 coins when you check order status updates and such).

3
Don't know if it's already been mentioned: Neck gaiters (the buff/had kind)! Last time I bought genuine buffs, they were on sale in a Spanish online shop for around 7...8 Euros, I think, which seemed very cheap back then and much more so today. Just for context ...

On ali, there is a 3 pcs set for 2 bucks in the 3-for-6 section (5 different options, 3 different prints each).

Other than that, they go for below 2 bucks up to 3ish when bought separately, still cheap. I have one of those 3 pcs sets and they feel pretty much like my genuine buffs. Can't say anything about longevity, but for now, I like them; ordered a bunch more with different prints from the coins discount section, too, for effectively around 1 buck a piece.

4
aero seatpost compatible Garmin Varia mount?

Not what you were asking, but that sounds like a task for a 3d printer - just a little spacer thingy to make the mount conform to the rear end of the post and a drop of superglue to keep it fixated to the mount.

Other than that, I have seen pictures somewhere of some over-engineered varia mount with boa-like wire clamping stuff that seemed to be made for aero posts (definitely not ali, though).

5
Maintenance, Mechanics, & Tools / Re: Recommendations for Truing Stands?
« on: February 13, 2024, 03:08:02 PM »
Same experience here.
Me 3. While it does kind of work, it has  definitely issues, quite a few actually. They started from an already questionable design and took out all the oversizing and precision that compensate for the laughable linear bearing arrangement in the original.

ordered this one for my self: https://a.aliexpress.com/_EJ9LPzr

The latter one was a bit more solid and truly centered. I would go with this.
That's a bit confusing. Your link shows 2 options:
  • One is the bad Centrimaster copy mentioned above, which has the centre finder feature (which itself requires centring to make it work).
  • The other one doesn't have anything that requires being centred or would even allow you to check. That thing works all the same, no matter if it's straight as an arrow or crooked as hell.

6
I just picked up one of these tools for $30 on sale and I have to say it's pretty cool. Probably completely unnecessary for most people but I get super OCD about my lever positioning and it helps getting them perfectly aligned. Also doubles as a RD hanger alignment tool.
...

That is a cool idea. I have similar issues with my handlebars possibly being not, like, 110 % perfectly centred and/or my brake levers being slightly out of symmetry (seriously, how f'ing hard can it be to put reference markings on every mounting surface with somewhat decent precision).

I just feel that using the top edge of the steerer tube as a datum kinda defeats the purpose (unless the steerer was cut to size in a lathe or something like that).

7
Oh and I just remembered that there are also plugs available for almost any sized frame bolt hole https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002952659495.html

Just in case you also tried these - did you aim to match the core diameter or the nominal thread size / external diameter (slightly over-sized plug, more press fitty)?

8
Is the seat post CNC'd? When you rub your fingernail up and down on it can you feel the ridges?

Ridges don't tell you whether something was made on a CNC machine. They're just a result of the machining (no matter if CNC or not) and how far you take it with the finishing passes (or/and additional operations).

If you want to know, if the post has been machined - yea, if it looks anything like the picture, no way around it. Was it on a CNC, though? Probably, I wouldn't expect them to turn semi mass-produced pieces on manual lathes (not that it was impossible) ... but again, nothing to do with the ridges.

9
Elita One 63D
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mLJPymG

Does this version have swively bits between the screw heads and the contact surfaces in the post head and do the holes allow for the screws to tilt? If not, it's basically a fixed-angle solution (or "micro adjustable" if you will).
I am fully aware that quite a few people use it with success regardless. Still ...



10
After The Ride / Re: Issue with attached images
« on: January 24, 2024, 01:00:41 PM »
This looks similar on my machines. I found this workaround to kind of lessen the issue: I do NOT left click the thumbnail, but rather open it in a new tab. With most browser, this should just be a middle click on the image instead of a left click ... or its touchpad equivalent if you're on a laptop (2-finger tap on mine).
Yea, it comes at the cost of having to navigate through the image tabs (instead of just scrolling), but at least images are displayed correctly there - auto-resizing to window, zoom in/out available, scrollable when zoomed in ...

Maybe an important note (or not): Left clicking the image in a thread cycles between thumbnail and full-size mode. On my browser (firefox with a myriad of addons), the new image tab will always show the version of the image that was NOT shown in the thread when I middle clicked it - meaning, if I middle click on the thumbnail/preview in the thread, the full image will open in a new tab; if I accidentally already left clicked the thumbnail in the thread (hence cycled to full-image mode in the thread) and then middle click it, only the thumbnail will open in the new tab. I hope that makes sense, it becomes much clearer once you see it.


11
What app? Some seem to have better compression.

That may be part of it. I use Openandromaps' maps for Locus. There, Germany alone is over 4 GB after unpacking, I think (for comparison, userbeam says ~2 GB) . Never cared as I have the memory anyway, but I wouldn't want to buy a new gps device today with as little as 4 GB.

12
Yes that's plenty. For reference all of australia is 3GB.

Doesn't it require offline map files of some sort? These can be huge for some places.
I have easily 15 GB of map files on my phone (not counting POI lists) and that only covers Germany and some of its direct neighbours.

13
It's already been solved and all, just some alternative options to plug holes of that kind:
  • Nylon screws, black and white can usually be found easily (if you're OK with slit or external hex head)
  • Cheap Chinese aluminium screws, available in a dozen different colours (although colour fit is always a little adventure with anodised parts)

14
Component Deals & Selection / Re: Magene QED P325 Crankset
« on: January 18, 2024, 01:30:26 PM »
Maybe I can find a machine shop willing to do the job for me, but then the question is how expensive will it be?

The design part could have been a nice exercise (and prototyping 1 or 2 ideas, before going metal, isn't that much of an issue nowadays where everybody and their grandma has a 3D printer). The real issue is machining. Not sure, but I think it's pretty much true anywhere that getting a one-off part machined at regular rates is usually way (waaaaay) expensive. To make it feasible, you would have to be able to do it yourself or just happen to know someone.

Nevermind then, trying to sell might really be the way to go.

15
Component Deals & Selection / Re: Magene QED P325 Crankset
« on: January 17, 2024, 11:42:38 AM »
The fundamental problem is the Magene integrated spider+chainring made for this crankset is too soft and bends out-of-true through normal use.

Normally this problem could be solved by replacing it with a heavier, stiffer/stronger spider + chainring. But the secondary problem is that this is not an option, because the spider interface is proprietary and Magene does not sell a (non power meter) spider for this crankset, at least not in western markets.

As the milk is already spilled anyway: I assume you don't have access to a mill or to someone who knows someone ...? In that very unlikely case, reverse engineering the interface could have been an option to save an otherwise (assumedly) perfectly fine piece of metal.

(I've been riding a sram crank with a custom-made spider for years, not machined, though, just laser cut (which is peanuts compared to machining work). My only point is: In theory, it could be done.)

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