Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.


Messages - jonathanf2

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 68
1
Geo is totally different between the two though.  For me, the geo on the SP is much better.

In terms of weight, T47 BB and 32c tire clearance they're similar. I'm not too picky on geometry, I can adapt to most frames in my size range.

2
There was an earlier thread about it, but I don't think anyone has gotten their hands on one...at least on this forum:

https://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,4731.msg55518.html

Specs and price seems in-line with the SPCycle SP-R065, though the BXT comes with free shipping:

https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256806415702077.html

3
Today I finished up a ride and I was cleaning my ER9 bike when it fell on the drive side knocking the rear derailleur. It was enough of an impact to bend the derailleur hanger and threw off my RD fine-tuning adjustments. I had to realign the hanger and then redo my gear fine tuning. Luckily I was able to get everything back in working order.

I'm at about 13,600 shifts with the ER9. Issues I've encountered so far is jamming the chain into the cassette (dumping too many gears without pedaling) and dropping the bike on the RD (throwing off indexing). Both issues fixed. Batteries are still in working order and front/rear derailleurs shifting properly. Let's see how long my ER9 will last!  ;D

4
Did anyone notice Wheeltop is now advertising 3-14 speed cassette compatibility? I didn't even know 14 speed cassettes existed? Lol

https://wheeltop.com/products/eds-bicycle-derailleur




5
It's not super light by any means but most stock name brand gravel bikes are over this. What alloy bike did you have that was lighter ? I had a Trek Checkpoint that was 21 lbs. I think without any of the junk (bags, tools, spare tube, food, bottles, f & r lights, garmin, gopro etc) on there it's 18 lbs. I have a Colnago Master that is 18 lbs LOL

I was originally using a Poseidon X alloy frameset that I eventually gifted to a family member. It was running in 1x configuration and it came out to about 20 lbs. I eventually swapped out the parts to an old 2017 Kinesis carbon frameset that I had laying around and now it's at the 7.9kg/17.5 lbs. mark. Nothing wrong with the frame, but it has external brake cabling. I'm tempted to drill an internal brake hole in the frame, but I'm worried about affecting the structural integrity.

The weight difference between my carbon road and gravel bikes are only about 1-1.5 lbs. Most of that extra weight is just in my tires, cassette and slightly heavier GRX shifters. I think my gravel wheelset actually weighs less than my road wheels.

I'm looking at older Crux framesets, like a 2019 model. No way I could buy a newer frameset!

6
Mine is 22lb as shown in this picture (one bottle empty). The tires are 650g each and loaded with 3-4 oz of sealant. I can save almost a lb if I used good tires.

Whoa, that weighs more than when I had my alloy gravel frameset!  ;D

I think it's a bit more of balancing act trying to weight weenie a gravel bike since durability and ride conditions are important factors to keep in mind. I might even consider getting an older Crux frameset at this point if I want to drop more weight.

7
What kind of bike weights are you guys getting with this frame? My current carbon gravel frame is about 7.9kg running 2x mechanical with 38c Gravelking SK tires. I would preferably like to get my gravel bike down at least to 7.6kg or sub 17lbs. I have this frame on my wishlist, but I'm open to other gravel framesets especially if they weigh less. The VoiceVelo G-Major would be perfect, but totally out of my price range!

8
My main hypothesis is that I didn't plug the cables properly into the battery, and that the vibrations from being transported in a care shook them loose. Then when I started riding, the movement caused just enough of a connection to be established so I could shift.

Assuming that's the cause, does anyone have suggestions for how to better secure the cables at the battery end?

Another hypothesis is that the issue was caused by dodgy batteries in the battery holder. I don't have anything to support this hypothesis currently, apart from the fact that I'm using unbranded batteries from eBay (https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/256250808223). They've been charging fine, and the reported charge hasn't dropped much with each ride. Regardless, I now have a branded set on order.

I'd suggest either heat shrink plastic, hot glue or rubber cement. I actually didn't use any adhesive at the battery holder end for my ER9 build. I just made sure the cables were properly snug. I'm using bubble wrap packaging tied to a string to secure the battery holder inside my seat post. I just used the bubble wrap that came with the groupset. I'm wondering if this stuff makes for a better vibration insulator than using those fancy Di2 mounts? My cables on the FD/RD end are all rubber cemented in and I added coat of dielectric grease.

Anyways, I've transported my bike multiple times on a car bike rack and I regularly ride on rough surface roads. Also I'm using Ebay batteries as well with no problems.

9
Cyclocross Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: LTWOO eGR
« on: May 25, 2024, 10:41:02 AM »
Ok, I said I'd be back with some info once I got it built. It's preliminary as I only have one ride on it so far, but you can read it here

https://trbike.blogspot.com/2024/05/ltwoo-egr-results-writeup.html

What size chainring were you using with the 10-50t? Did you do any preventative measures against water ingress?

10
I no longer have any cables on any of the bikes I ride other than my dropper post cable.  Hydraulic brakes and Electric wireless shifting eliminated the need for those cute little plugs...

How are you liking the Wheeltop for gravel? Are you okay not having a clutch? I'm not sure I want to chance going electronic on my gravel bike. If the groupset dies, I'm usually on more remote mountain trails. I am debating converting my other road bike also to electronic. Contrary to other user experiences, my ER9 has been working perfect. Though I wouldn't mind trying the Wheeltop groupset as well.

11
I actually found some decent deals for like-new dura ace calipers on eBay. Now that the cycling bubble has burst, there are a lot of top quality shimano components on sale.

I installed a more recent copy of XG calipers on my ER9 bike and they work really well. On more recent copies of the calipers, someone on YT posted a review showing they fixed the oil port hole by making it slightly bigger. The only other reason I swapped to those calipers was due to having problems running a 140mm rear rotor with LTWOO calipers. The 140mm adapter plate was refusing to line up properly. With XG caliper no adapter was necessary.

My bikes are definitely starting to look like an mis mash of components!


12
I run an XG on the back and a dura ace from EBay on the front—aero where it matters more

Why not go full Dura-ace front and rear?

13
huh, thats pretty cool

I like AliEx for little things like this.

FYI - the ZRace XG calipers have been working fine at least for road. Nothing wrong with LTwoo calipers and they might be better if aero is a priority, but since I focus more on climbing I prefer the weight drop of the XG calipers. I've been using them on both my mechanical Ultegra and ER9 bikes with no problems so far.

14
big difference between 28 and 38c, but ofc you're not gonna just get them off by hand, if that's enough that tyre was going anyway

Naw, I would go straight to 30c or even 32c tires if on a hookless 25mm internal. Though wide tires on road bikes aren't my thing unless I was doing more of an endurance style build.

15
I'm just curious, were those recent race blowouts with hookless wheels on 25mm internal width wheels? At least on my gravel bike running 25mm internal width on 38c tires, that tire is on so tight even if it were to break the bead, I don't see the tire coming off. It was already hard getting them on and I was able to bead the tire with just a regular floor pump. Hookless at least for gravel has been great for me.

I would consider hookless on my road bikes, but I tend to prefer 25c tires since I feel more agile road climbing at that width.

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 68