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Topics - frankR

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29er / IP-256SL XC Racer Build 18.5lb
« on: November 19, 2014, 10:16:27 AM »
  • IPlay IP-256SL (17.5", BB30)
  • Rockshox SID Worldcup XX
  • Specialized Roval Control SL
  • SRAM XX1
  • Shimano XTR M9000 brakes
  • Ritchey WCS Carbon Components

Hope to be under 18.5lbs

Build Status: 90% complete. Need to shorten front brake line, run RD cable, install chain and saddle. Waiting on wheels ordered through Livermore Cyclery (2015 Roval Control SL).

Road racer for 5 years that got hooked on XC racing this past season in Norcal. Current MtB bike is a 2012 Specialized SJ Carbon Expert (~23lbs).

Time to upgrade! Took the plunge on a high-end build. This project is my first frame-up build (typically a Craigslist shopper), and by far the most money I have spent on any bicycle.

Original intention was to build a Niner Air 9 RDO. However, the new 2015 frame was announced but not yet available back in October. Had my eye on the 256SL for weeks so I pulled the trigger through Peter. Will continue to ride and race the 256SL as long as I am happy with it. Otherwise will move to the new Air 9 RDO and transfer components.



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29er / IP-256SL brake line routing?
« on: November 15, 2014, 10:03:26 PM »
Sorry for the newbie questions. My first MtB build and I am doing internal brake line routing!

Can someone explain the best way to route the rear brake line on the IP-256SL?

Is the line supposed to go through the bottom bracket shell, or underneath it. I can't tell if there is room underneath it. Hard to imagine it being a good idea going through the bottom bracket shell. There are openings in the shell at the seat tube, head tube and seat stays.

What is the best procedure to route the cable through the small opening in the head tube?

I have XTR brakes (M9000). It looks like the standard line shortening procedure is to cut the line at the lever. Although it would seem to be easier to disconnect the brake line from the caliper then feed it through the opening in the head tube and down the head tube and then through the left seat stay and finally fish it through the opening inthe seat stay.

However, it doesn't look like the connector on the caliper is designed to be easily removed (looks crimped on). The alternative is would be to feed it from the caliper using a stray to get it through the opening in the head tube. However this looks nearly impossible to do.

Thanks for any help!

Will make separate post showing complete build list with photos. This is a high-end build for next seasons XC racing campaign.

Edit: My frame did not come with straws. I found many photos on the web with straws installed for the RD/FD cables and rear brake line. Boy would the pre-routed straws be nice!

-Frank

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