Chinertown
Chinese Carbon MTB => 29er => Topic started by: Ben78 on March 30, 2021, 04:39:27 PM
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Seems to be very little information on this one just yet. Same geo as the Carbonda FM936 but has a Horst link rear triangle so should have a more active suspension feel. I'm looking to replace my current xc bike that I broke the rear triangle. It was a four bar style and prior to that I had a flex stay style bike and much prefer the more active suspension. I also have a specialized enduro, the S3 would have nearly identical geo but in a short travel xc bike so swapping between bikes should be better.
I've been liaising with Ican but was hoping someone here had built one up already before I go for it.
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I am also interested in this frame, It looks great!
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Interested in this frame as well but the carbonda appears to be a good 200 or 400g lighter.
Will the linkage make that much of a difference?
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I like the linkage style - if it was 120mm I'd jump on it.
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Is it literally just the carbonda but with a beefier/not flex stay rear end?
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45mm bb drop is huge, IMO. Pedal strikes galore here with that.
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45mm bb drop is huge, IMO. Pedal strikes galore here with that.
Run my 936 with 170 cranks and rarely have strikes. And I really like how you're more "in" the bike than on top of it. Lots of fun to lean over in corners.
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What are your trails like, are they buttery smooth or littered with rocks?
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What are your trails like, are they buttery smooth or littered with rocks?
Littered with rocks and roots with some really technical short steeps.
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Might be interesting with a 120mm short offset fork.
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Ah well, despite lack of information I've today paid the invoice on a large unpainted S3. Now to select some components. I'll post up here in a couple of weeks when it arrives.
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What is the travel?
In the text they state Stroke 122mm, then in the list says travel 100mm. Do you have a confirmation?
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I suspect by stroke they mean eye to eye at full compression, so a 165x42.5 shock is longest travel. I am using a 165x38 to start with which should give me about 96mm, putting 120mm revelation on the front. Base geo is identical to Carbonda FM936 so I am expecting that what works for that frame will work for S3. Once I receive it I'll post up any additional details I can put together.
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Woooo!
My S3 arrived today, 8 business days after payment. I've had a good look over it, there is a small chip (<0.5mm) in the paint on the chainstay, and paint around the linkage bolts is a little rough in a couple of places, but it's no worse than the paint quality that my Specialized Enduro had when I first got it.
My components will be
Microshift Advent X 10 speed 11-48t drivetrain
Shimano SLX 170mm cranks
Magura Trail Sport brakes 180/160 Magura discs
Truvativ carbon bars
DT XM401 rear wheel Formula hub
Merida front wheel
Revelation 120mm Fork
Monarch 165x38 shock
I was going to use my Reverb dropper but I wrongly thought it was a 31.6, it's a 30.9 so I'll need to get a dropper now. Will probably get a One Up 150mm.
It was too late to take any decent photos when I got home, I'll endeavour to have some up on Friday.
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Woooo!
My S3 arrived today, 8 business days after payment. I've had a good look over it, there is a small chip (<0.5mm) in the paint on the chainstay, and paint around the linkage bolts is a little rough in a couple of places, but it's no worse than the paint quality that my Specialized Enduro had when I first got it.
My components will be
Microshift Advent X 10 speed 11-48t drivetrain
Shimano SLX 170mm cranks
Magura Trail Sport brakes 180/160 Magura discs
Truvativ carbon bars
DT XM401 rear wheel Formula hub
Merida front wheel
Revelation 120mm Fork
Monarch 165x38 shock
I was going to use my Reverb dropper but I wrongly thought it was a 31.6, it's a 30.9 so I'll need to get a dropper now. Will probably get a One Up 150mm.
It was too late to take any decent photos when I got home, I'll endeavour to have some up on Friday.
Looking forward to the photos. I'm seriously tempted with this frame as it seems to offer everything I'm looking for except 120mm which having already realised I don't need 150mm, I probably don't need 120mm either as I've lived with 100mm very well for the last 20 odd years... and the modern geo should be plenty fast enough for me at 48yo...
However, I wouldn't mind 110mm, I know Ican say max 165x40mm trunnion, and people believe a 165x42.5mm will fit but I think if you use offset bushes you could squeeze a 165x45mm trunnion in there to get a theoretical 112mm travel. Yes this would raise the BB slightly and steepen both HTA and STA but the HTA is pretty slack as it is. Plus I'm looking to mullet it so this will be compensated and in fact help maintain the geo as designed.
Advantages would be I can use most of my existing components bar the wheels, headset and fork lowers. I'd need a crown race reducer for my SID forks but no issue.
Can you tell me what size you went for? I'm 6'1" with a 6'1.5" span and 32.5" instep so a long upper body. I'm guessing having sat on a Kelly's Thorx (https://www.kellysbike.com/en/trail-c922/thorx-50-29-p67855) size L that I need an L here also.
Looking forward to details of the build!
Cheers
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I don't want to say too much at this point, but I think a 165x45 is actually realistic.
As you can see in the pic, at full compression the linkage bolts are 115mm apart, which means a 165x50 shock would hit the bridge at full compression, and there should be around 5mm clearance at 165x45. This to me is fairly positive....
The other pic is just a wheels n fork mock up to see what its going to look like once built.
I stripped the frame to components today so I can at least pop the bearing seals and grease them. That said all the bolts had decent amount of blue locktite and all pivots were very tight, actually was difficult getting them apart.
The pivot linkage is carbon also, I think the Carbonda version is aluminium.
Now to the biggest downside - and this may have been my fault.... Greased bottom bracket galled up pretty bad. I managed to get the BB shell out, but it tore all the threads off the shell and left them in the BB, so now I have to buy a thread file to try and clean them up. Really unsure of what I did wrong there.....
I bought a large, and am 182cm/6', I also have a large Specialized Enduro which has very similar geo, so I figured I'd be fine on a Large. In the mock up pic I have a 80mm stem but I'll probably get a 40mm. I had planned on painting it, but once I saw it mocked up I actually really like the blacked out look - not something I'm really used to seeing!
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The specs say this frame uses a 165X40 mm shock at 122 mm of travel. Something is amiss here. 165X40 is about 105 mm of travel. Most of the 120 mm travel frames of this style use a 165X45 trunnion shock.
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I don't want to say too much at this point, but I think a 165x45 is actually realistic.
As you can see in the pic, at full compression the linkage bolts are 115mm apart, which means a 165x50 shock would hit the bridge at full compression, and there should be around 5mm clearance at 165x45. This to me is fairly positive....
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Cheers Ben, some great info there and helps me firm up my thoughts.
Shame the linkage is carbon was planning on stripping and polishing of aluminium :-\ oh well.
Damn that sucks with the BB, hope you get it sorted out.
On another matter l, how did you communicate with Ican? I'm finding their online chat and Email woefully slow co.pared to other Chinese retailers.
Cheers
Guy
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The specs say this frame uses a 165X40 mm shock at 122 mm of travel. Something is amiss here. 165X40 is about 105 mm of travel. Most of the 120 mm travel frames of this style use a 165X45 trunnion shock.
I think you're getting it lost translation literally. The 122mm quoted is we assume the minimum compressed length of the shock, they call it stroke. So based on a 165 i2t this equates to a 42.5mm stroke. Ben is saying a 45mm looks feasible. So theoretically if 40mm shock strike equates to 100mm rear suspension travel then 45mm will equate to 112mm suspension travel.
Tbh I was also confused by the 122mm stroke statement in the specs but Ben's explanation makes sense and I pretty sure Ican don't use professional translators, hence lost in translation :D
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Got it built up today. I bought an imperial thread file and another bb52 and got it sorted. Made up a trunnion adaptor and got it all together.
I'm racing an enduro this weekend so won't get to ride it until next week some time unfortunately. Driveway test feels good though, and as suspected the feel is very similar to my Enduro.
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Looks awesome. What did the rear travel end up being?
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Looks great!!
I'm playing around with the computer to check the geo with my changes....
(https://i.imgur.com/3QMjuFP.png)
Doesn't look too bad from the pictures but STA and HTA difficult to calculate properly. But think it should work nicely.
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Am I right in saying this frame is basically a Transition Sentinel, with a Transition Spur rear triangle and reduced travel?
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Looks awesome. What did the rear travel end up being?
I've only got a 165x38 at the moment so about 96mm
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Ben,
As you got a large, can you tell me what headset you've used and what the overall height is from bottom to top of headset. I've seen a fox factory fork for a reasonable price and need to see if the head tube is long enough. I suspect it isn't.
Thanks in advance
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I think you're getting it lost translation literally. The 122mm quoted is we assume the minimum compressed length of the shock, they call it stroke. So based on a 165 i2t this equates to a 42.5mm stroke. Ben is saying a 45mm looks feasible. So theoretically if 40mm shock strike equates to 100mm rear suspension travel then 45mm will equate to 112mm suspension travel.
Tbh I was also confused by the 122mm stroke statement in the specs but Ben's explanation makes sense and I pretty sure Ican don't use professional translators, hence lost in translation :D
I appreciate the explanation but I think the ratio is off because 165X38 shock is 100 mm on most bikes so taking the trunnion in consideration 140 trunnion should be about 105 , the 142.5 should be about 112 and the 145 should be about 120. Maybe the stroke changes that slightly but unless you're compressing the shock to get in the frame then the numbers are still skewed. Not to mention that if it doesn't have capability to full compress the shock and bottom out then what's the point?
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Hi guys, newbie here from Portugal! ;)
After finished a marathon reading all 109 pages on Carbonda fm936 and noticing this thread, on Apr 13 I placed an order for a S3 frame with ICAN. I confess I was kind of afraid it would be a scam, so I was so relieved when Ben finally received his frame!
I'm now starting to collect all required parts, the first one being a Fox Factory Kashima 165x42.5 rear shock. Just placed the order at a bargain 300€ price, shipping included from Ukraine. Still 2 units left, if anyone's interested: https://www.ebay.com/itm/284181189397 (https://www.ebay.com/itm/284181189397)
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I appreciate the explanation but I think the ratio is off because 165X38 shock is 100 mm on most bikes so taking the trunnion in consideration 140 trunnion should be about 105 , the 142.5 should be about 112 and the 145 should be about 120. Maybe the stroke changes that slightly but unless you're compressing the shock to get in the frame then the numbers are still skewed. Not to mention that if it doesn't have capability to full compress the shock and bottom out then what's the point?
I'm not quite sure if I fully understand what you mean... But there seem to be some errors in your thinking. Please correct me if I'm wrong:
You say that "165x38 shock is 100mm on most bikes", do you mean that a frame with a 165x38 shock usually provides 100mm of travel? Well it may be, that many bikes with these shock dimensions have 100mm of travel. But the amount of travel that the shock stroke translates to, depends on the leverage ratio of the frame. And that cannot be "off", it is what it is. Every bike is different. That just depends on how the linkage is designed. Like some bikes with a 210x55 shock have 140mm of travel, others have 160mm.
The Ican here for example has an average leverage ratio of 2,5. That means that for every 1mm of shock compression, the rear wheel moves upwards by 2,5mm - on average. It's probably a progressive frame, so the leverage ratio will reduce throughout the travel.
Now for this, the only important number is the stroke length of the shock, which is the second number, like "38". The first number - 165 - is the eye to eye, so the overall length of the shock. That should usually not be messed with, since any changes will drastically affect the geometry of the bike. Also, it doesn't matter if its trunnion or standard mount. The eye to eye is what counts. In this bike, you should only run 165mm, trunnion or standard.
What the guys are talking about, is keeping the eye to eye length the same, but changing the stroke length of the shock. So when the standard shock would be fully compressed, a longer stroke shock still has some more to go, resulting in more travel. The limit of this is reached when the seat stays hit the seat tube. What Ben did, is go to this point of maximum compression and measure the remaining eye to eye distance, which is 115mm. A 165mm shock would need to be compressed by 50 mm to get to this point. But you need some safety room to avoid breaking the frame at the first bottom out, also because the bottom out bumpers of the shock still give way a little when it's compressed hard. That's why Ben suggested a 45mm stroke shock may work.
The rest is math. Let's say the leverage ratio is 2,5 at the end of the stroke (it's probably a little lower), then an additional 2,5 mm of shock stroke will give you 6,25mm more travel. Take that twice and you have your 112mm with a 45mm stroke instead of the standard 100mm with a 40mm stroke.
Sorry, a lot to read, I know... I hope I didn't misunderstand you, just thought this might help. Took me a while to get behind this linkage stuff too.
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Julian thanks for the good read.
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Ben,
As you got a large, can you tell me what headset you've used and what the overall height is from bottom to top of headset. I've seen a fox factory fork for a reasonable price and need to see if the head tube is long enough. I suspect it isn't.
Thanks in advance
I used the headset that came in the box, it is a zero stack type. Headtube is 120mm long and my fork has a 175mm steerer on it.
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Woooo!
My S3 arrived today, 8 business days after payment. I've had a good look over it, there is a small chip (<0.5mm) in the paint on the chainstay, and paint around the linkage bolts is a little rough in a couple of places, but it's no worse than the paint quality that my Specialized Enduro had when I first got it.
My components will be
Microshift Advent X 10 speed 11-48t drivetrain
Shimano SLX 170mm cranks
Magura Trail Sport brakes 180/160 Magura discs
Truvativ carbon bars
DT XM401 rear wheel Formula hub
Merida front wheel
Revelation 120mm Fork
Monarch 165x38 shock
I was going to use my Reverb dropper but I wrongly thought it was a 31.6, it's a 30.9 so I'll need to get a dropper now. Will probably get a One Up 150mm.
It was too late to take any decent photos when I got home, I'll endeavour to have some up on Friday.
Interesting, the website spec says it's uses a 31.6mm seatpost. How's your riding impression of the bike? I also paid for a black frame after seeing yours. Your posts have been very helpful!
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Sorry, I may have not been clear enough.
My Merida Ninety Six takes a 31.6 seatpost
My Ican S3 takes a 31.6 seatpost
The reverb I have that I removed from my Merida is a 30.9 seatpost
I bought a Bontrager Line 150mm 31.6 seatpost instead
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I’m new here and this is my first post, but I just received my ICAN S3 frame. Frame looks great, good grease in the bearings, and just overall nice finish. One thing I’m missing though is any spec on the shock mounting hardware. I can’t find what dimensions are needed anywhere on their site. Anyone know? I apologize in advance if this is an ignorant question.
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@Hayek: I got this information from ICAN support and a picture:
"Trunnion mount: 8*30mm/54*M10 screw or 54*30mm."
As long as you fit a trunnion mount shock you shouldn't need any other hardware.
Too bad those shocks start at like 400 usd.
@Ben78: Can you post a picture of your diy trunnion to standard mount adapter? I believe it needs to be a threaded bushing?
Aren't you afraid it will bend or that the carbon frame around the mounting hole will chip if the adapter flexes?
Also you can also get the S3 in black for 840 USD (shipped tax-free to EU).
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Take a look at the Conor WRC DARK. Conor specifies the bike with a 165x45:
https://www.conorbikes.com/es-es/wrcdark21/wrc-dark-29er-carbon-xt-negro-md-.110505ngmd?returnurl=%2fes-es%2fwrcdark21%2f
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Take a look at the Conor WRC DARK. Conor specifies the bike with a 165x45:
https://www.conorbikes.com/es-es/wrcdark21/wrc-dark-29er-carbon-xt-negro-md-.110505ngmd?returnurl=%2fes-es%2fwrcdark21%2f
Interesting that they list the bike as 100mm travel with the 165x45 too, wonder if that is a typo..
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Pictures from Conor Website...
I think I'll try a 165 x 45 mm SidLuxe...
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Pictures from Conor Website...
I think I'll try a 165 x 45 mm SidLuxe...
I think that's one of the best things about going with a Chiner, figuring out what is possible.
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For the linkage nerds among you (who haven't done it themselves yet), I've done some analyzing of the S3 diagram using Linkage X3.
Firstly, two purely subjective design aspects I don't like about the S3 when compared to the FM936:
- They had to redesign the rocker arm, due to the horst link rear giving more travel. To counter that, they moved the top shock mount further away from the seatstay, lowering the leverage ratio. The new rocker arm looks a bit dull to me.
- The angle of the seatstays does not allign with the angle of the top tube. That's something I love about the FM936 design. The S3 looks a bit more old school there in my opinion.
Now, moving on to the objektive stuff:
- The leverage ratio looks good, fairly progressive for an XC frame (around 11% from SAG). Also, the software confirms what has been said before: 40mm shock = 100mm of travel, 45mm shock = 112mm of travel.
- Anti squat is relatively high, so a bigger chainring is recommended to not increase it any further. A 34t should be okay, while a 32t will already give way too high anti squat at SAG, which may result in a lot of pedal bob. Pedaling technique also plays a role of course. But generally, 100% anti squat at SAG is preferable.
And here some screenshots. Enjoy :)
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Very interesting.
I have around 100km on mine now, with a decent 30km single effort in that. Keep in mind I have a 165x38 shock currently. 32t chain ring, 11-48 cassette. I weigh 76kg and have 185psi in the shock.
I feel like the bike pedals like a classic XC bike, very little pedal bob and direct power transmission. On the descents though it turns into a trail bike - nothing at all like my previous bike, a Merida Ninety Six, which stayed in the "feels like a hardtail" mode when pointed downhill. Not only that, but the suspension has an almost bottomless feel to it, although I have bottomed it out a couple of times, mostly casing the biggest jump in my park, a 7m tabletop. After the 30km ride I wasn't sore and tired as I would have been on the old XC. I suspect that this new geo xc bikes will become very popular with the marathon crowd.
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...Pedaling technique also plays a role of course...
Do you meaning pedaling more in circle than like two pistons ?
My FM936 is bobling just a little, but definitely not enough for me to add a remote lock on the bar.
One of my friend, can't stand it and is scouting the whole internet to find a remote.
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Do you meaning pedaling more in circle than like two pistons ?
That's part of it, yes. But I'm no physicist either, so as a quick disclaimer, I'll say that my "knowledge" consists of stuff I read and observations I made :)
When it comes to anti squat, I think it's safe to say that there's no "holy grail number" for everyone. If you think of 100% anti squat being a perfect equilibrium between inertia forces compressing and chain pull extending the rear end, then countless other factors need to be considered. I guess rider weight alone would't really matter, since a heavier rider has to push harder (and therefore create stronger chain pull) to accelerate a certain amount. The higher inertia force would be countered by the stronger chain pull. The center of gravity however definitely plays a role, and it may be something I haven't considered enough when giving you these anti squat values. Riders with longer legs will have a higher center of gravity, which leads to less anti squat. So I guess my diagrams aren't that helpfull afterall :D
But as you said, the "roundness" of your pedaling will have an impact for sure. Then there's upper body movement, for example bringing the soulders down with every pedal push. Also, some people tend to sit slightly too high and start moving their hips when pedaling. And I personally experienced how even your upper body tension and how tightly you grip the handlebars make a difference.
So I guess it's generally hard to say what or who to fault when you have pedal bob. I'd start by trying to find out if the suspension compresses (anti squat too low) or extends (anti suqat too high) with every push on the pedals. Then you could try countering that with changing your pedaling technique, body tension and/or chain ring size.
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It make sense, the right anti squat is a moving target.
I never considered moving the body to help, and will experiment with this.
Thank you for the hint.
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It's in Spanish, but review of Conor WRC Dark using the Ican S3 frame is here - https://youtu.be/kNGFfGpee9o
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i ordered one for my bmc fourstroke on
mantel.com
https://www.schaltauge.de/
this site also has a huge offer
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It is an Universal Derailleur Hanger (UDH). So it is easy to get it as a spare part.
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Maiden voyage completed: 8)
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Maiden voyage completed: 8)
Awesome! Did you end up getting a 165x45 shock? No dramas at all?
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Maiden voyage completed: 8)
Lovely !! :D
I would really like to know one day what's behind all these frames. As here, the front is the FM936.
Are they designed by some western brands or Chinese designers ?
Are there many molds and building sites ?
I'm with this for 7 years now, and it is still an opaque cloud.
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unfortunately for my frame, it did not come with the mounting hardware for the upper shock mount.
Does anyone hv the precise measurements of it? is it 29mm x M8? thx
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The mounting hardware depends on the shock. If it is SidLuxe you need RockShox 30mm xM8.
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Awesome! Did you end up getting a 165x45 shock? No dramas at all?
165x45 works great
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unfortunately for my frame, it did not come with the mounting hardware for the upper shock mount.
Does anyone hv the precise measurements of it? is it 29mm x M8? thx
https://r2-bike.com/ROCKSHOX-Daempfer-Fuehrungsbuchsenset-metrisch-8-mm-8x30-mm
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Thanks gents. I bought myself a 42.5 fox DPS.
Will post back once I've built it up!
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Seems like the S3 has a much better suspension design than the FM936.
Attached is the leverage curve sent by Adam at Carbonda and the S3 (thanks Julian)
As you can see the S3 is progressive to linear, similar to most modern XC bikes designed for an air shock
The FM936 has a really pronounced falling rate in the end of travel, this would mean it has very little bottom out resistance. Almost no bikes are designed like this today. We want a rising rate.
I have been looking at these bikes for my next downcountry bike but seems the S3 is a better choice for anyone who will bottom it out. Too bad its heavier than the FM936 by more than 400grs (comparing the SL version)
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Seems like the S3 has a much better suspension design than the FM936.
Attached is the leverage curve sent by Adam at Carbonda and the S3 (thanks Julian)
As you can see the S3 is progressive to linear, similar to most modern XC bikes designed for an air shock
The FM936 has a really pronounced falling rate in the end of travel, this would mean it has very little bottom out resistance. Almost no bikes are designed like this today. We want a rising rate.
I have been looking at these bikes for my next downcountry bike but seems the S3 is a better choice for anyone who will bottom it out. Too bad its heavier than the FM936 by more than 400grs (comparing the SL version)
FWIW, I never bottom out my 936 unless I hit a really big drop or jump so no issues for me.
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how much do you weight?
How big are these drops/jumps you speak of?
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Seems like the S3 has a much better suspension design than the FM936.
Attached is the leverage curve sent by Adam at Carbonda and the S3 (thanks Julian)
As you can see the S3 is progressive to linear, similar to most modern XC bikes designed for an air shock
The FM936 has a really pronounced falling rate in the end of travel, this would mean it has very little bottom out resistance. Almost no bikes are designed like this today. We want a rising rate.
I have been looking at these bikes for my next downcountry bike but seems the S3 is a better choice for anyone who will bottom it out. Too bad its heavier than the FM936 by more than 400grs (comparing the SL version)
You're welcome :)
Your analysis is correct, but I'm not sure if you can trust Adam's material. It seems like he's also using X3 to calculate the leverage ratio, but with that software it's absolutely impossible to calculate the actual leverage ratio of the FM936, because it does not have any means to factor in the flexing seat stays. If you only put in the actual existing links, the software will have a calculation error. I'm no engineer, but I'm pretty sure a flexing part does not have one fixed pivot point, but one that moves throughout the bend (similar to a VPP). That's why I have refrained from posting any leverage ratio stuff on the FM936. I've tried to get close to the actual leverage ratio by using a classic swingarm 4-bar design (so one additional pivot point in the seat stays) and placing the rear link pivot in the middle of the seat stay, where it's the most bendy. But placing it there will cause the seatstay to shorten a lot more than the actual bending does. So neither leverage ratio nor actual travel can be properly calculated.
I've tried out various different positions for that rear pivot point and the leverage ratio was always fairly progressive. That is also supported by what NS Bikes claim for the not-so-different Synonym and by what FM936 riders have reported so far. So I believe that the actual leverage ratio is absolutely fine for a down country bike.
I've attached some examples for different pivot placements in the middle and further back as well as one where it pivots around the rear axle. The "truth" could be somewhere between those estimates.
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how much do you weight?
How big are these drops/jumps you speak of?
I'm 200 lbs. Takes about 3 ft drop to flat to flat to bottom out.
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Awesome Julian!! I was hoping you would do that ;)
Yes seems they are both good bikes then, the leverage ratio from Carbonda did seem a bit odd but I found it plausible given what I have seen been done in China ("designers" that dont even know how to use the thing they are making, happens in many products).
I actually prefer the FM936 as its lighter and that's kind of the whole point of this bike (I already have a 160mm bruiser), plus flex stays is the new thing right :P
Can you post the antisquat curve at least for one of the flex points? ("further back" seems like a good middle ground) THANKS!
I'm 200 lbs. Takes about 3 ft drop to flat to flat to bottom out.
You are heavy (like me) but 3ft is not that big (maybe for the type of bike), I am hoping I can replace my bruiser on most of my non bike park days and that might include some bigger stuff ;D maybe it will be good if the tokens are maxed out.
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Awesome Julian!! I was hoping you would do that ;)
Yes seems they are both good bikes then, the leverage ratio from Carbonda did seem a bit odd but I found it plausible given what I have seen been done in China ("designers" that dont even know how to use the thing they are making, happens in many products).
I actually prefer the FM936 as its lighter and that's kind of the whole point of this bike (I already have a 160mm bruiser), plus flex stays is the new thing right :P
Can you post the antisquat curve at least for one of the flex points? ("further back" seems like a good middle ground) THANKS!
Sure thing :)
Absolutely true about the chinese frames sometimes having weird linkages... but yeah, the FM936 seems pretty fine.
The anti squat is actually not affected by the placement of that rear pivot point, but very much so by the center of gravity, and I honestly have no idea how to correctly estimate that. I've just kept it where the software suggested it to be.
Anyway, it's probably very similar - if not identical - to the NS Synonym, and the magazine reviews haven't reported any terrible ride characteristics.
So, here you go, anti suqat for 32t and 34t (the highest line is with 50t, the lowest with 10t).
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Great thanks!
It has good pedaling characteristics from what I can see. I usually like to see ~120% on 50T so it stiffens up a bit especially if its a XC bike. This will also try to keep it above or close to 100% when on an uphill (CG moves forwards).
From my anectodal experience, 100% usually means it will bob slightly when mashing but it will stay fairly calm if you spin seated. A pedal switch is still going to be useful for sprinting and making the bike "feel" more efficient without perfect technique.
What software is this btw?
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What software is this btw?
It's called "Linkage X3". I really like it so far.
For the FM936, I've used a detailed vector graphic that Carbonda sent me, so I think it should be pretty accurate.
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:(
So I think I may have cracked my chainstay.....
Has anyone dealt with ICAN regarding warranty before? Painful process?
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The picture is a little blurry, but it looks to be just scratches.
This part is particularly strong.
Did you try to hit the area with a coin, and listen if the noise is different from place to place ?
A cracked zone will have a muted sound.
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Yes, tapping with a coin changes tone as I move across the area with the flake shape.
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Sure thing :)
Absolutely true about the chinese frames sometimes having weird linkages... but yeah, the FM936 seems pretty fine.
The anti squat is actually not affected by the placement of that rear pivot point, but very much so by the center of gravity, and I honestly have no idea how to correctly estimate that. I've just kept it where the software suggested it to be.
Anyway, it's probably very similar - if not identical - to the NS Synonym, and the magazine reviews haven't reported any terrible ride characteristics.
So, here you go, anti suqat for 32t and 34t (the highest line is with 50t, the lowest with 10t).
That's why I've just gone for the FM936 as it was designed by NS Bikes so pretty sure the suspension kinematics will be on point as is the geo.
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Hi Ben, for my frame, that particular area has a silver chain stay protector. Could the crack be a result of chain impacts?
from my experience on this frame, ICAN tend to ignore emails on things that they don't want to answer.... e.g. I was asking them for frame availability for a size which they don't have stock, they ignored me for days until I asked the same question in a PM to their FB account.
Good luck with your warranty claims and pls let us know how it goes
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So they have a warranty claim form on their website, which I have completed. Monday was a national holiday in China so they may be backlogged a little,
Mine never came with the metal protector, the scratches that can be seen in the paint are possibly filler of some description which has possibly flaked. Whilst I don't expect this area to flex and crack from longitudinal loading, I could see it happening from lateral loading - if you ever watch slow motion of a bike cornering the lateral movement can be huge.
I will update as I find out more about their process.
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...as it was designed by NS Bikes so pretty sure the suspension kinematics will be on point as is the geo.
How do you know that for sure ?
NS Bikes designed their own rear triangle maybe, with the help of flybike-asia maybe, but nothing is certain, or did I miss a boat ? :D
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How do you know that for sure ?
NS Bikes designed their own rear triangle maybe, with the help of flybike-asia maybe, but nothing is certain, or did I miss a boat ? :D
You're right, it will definitely have slightly different suspension kinematics, that's already clear by the different stroke lengths.
But the anti squat is actually not affected by that. It's a fixed pivot design, so the only thing that matters is how that main pivot point is placed. You could roughly say that if the chain moves through the main pivot point, anti squat is about 100 per cent at sag and it will change less with different gears (compare for example Canyon Lux, Specialized Epic...). Or course that depends on the center of gravity etc...
That's why the 32t seems better for the FM936, but that's just theory. In reality, pro riders never run anything smaller than a 36t on bikes that are optimized for 34t, and they don't seem to have any trouble.
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Damn, I just found some quality issues with my frame while I was wrapping protective films on it.
The carbon finishing near the CS Axle pivots looks pretty bad. I'm not sure if I should continue building with this CS.
You can see the CS Axle Pivot Right Side - Low is perfect but others aren't.
I've sent ICAN an email. Let's see how it goes..
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Damn, I just found some quality issues with my frame while I was wrapping protective films on it.
The carbon finishing near the CS Axle pivots looks pretty bad. I'm not sure if I should continue building with this CS.
You can see the CS Axle Pivot Right Side - Low is perfect but others aren't.
I've sent ICAN an email. Let's see how it goes..
Looks like normal unfinished carbon. Frame would cost a whole lot more if you wanted it to be finished perfect.
I'd send it.
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As an update, I was finally able to get in contact with ICAN (posed a question re their frames, almost immediate response...)
Anyway they are (allegedly) sending me a new chain stay. Hopefully the 8 days it took the original frame to arrive is the same for the part.
Now to decide if I repair the cracked one to keep as a spare, or cut it open in the name of science!
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MARCOPL that looks pretty normal. If that were on the outside I'd have a problem with it. Get a file and smooth it off. Kind of the trade off you get for getting a frame that was probably 20% the cost of a BIG BRAND NAME frame ....
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I received the new chainstay today. 4 weeks after they agreed to replace, this did come on EMS though rather than DHL that the original frame came on - which is a large part of that.
The area where mine cracked appears to have slightly different shape, so I wonder if they have expereinced some problems, or if it is normal variance in parts.
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That's good to hear Ben. Any chance you can post a pic of the new one so we can compare to the old?
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Wondering if this might be the new bike for me, looks like it can fit my riding pretty good.
But I can't decide what size I should go for, any suggestions and tips?
I am 186cm long and inner-leg is 92 cm.
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What parts is included in the box?
Anyone know how much shipping to Europe is (Sweden)?
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What parts is included in the box?
Anyone know how much shipping to Europe is (Sweden)?
I paid $1335aud delivered, and that is about $835 euro. Australia is closer to the factory, but there is probably better freight deals to Europe so who knows. It shipped on DHL.
In the box was the frame (assembled) and a small box with headset, seat clamp, rear axle. I asked for a spare derailleur hanger which was included at no additional cost. I had to buy a bottom bracket.
As for sizing, your height would push you into XL territory, but the way bikes are nowadays you really should consider your riding style as well. Prior to me buying the ican my son and I both had identical merida 96 in med and large. They were completely different in terms of riding experience to me. The medium accelerated faster and was much twitchier, but I could maneuver it a lot faster. The bigger bike was a lot more stable but slower handling.
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I paid $1335aud delivered, and that is about $835 euro. Australia is closer to the factory, but there is probably better freight deals to Europe so who knows. It shipped on DHL.
In the box was the frame (assembled) and a small box with headset, seat clamp, rear axle. I asked for a spare derailleur hanger which was included at no additional cost. I had to buy a bottom bracket.
As for sizing, your height would push you into XL territory, but the way bikes are nowadays you really should consider your riding style as well. Prior to me buying the ican my son and I both had identical merida 96 in med and large. They were completely different in terms of riding experience to me. The medium accelerated faster and was much twitchier, but I could maneuver it a lot faster. The bigger bike was a lot more stable but slower handling.
Great information. Thank you very much!
Mayby I should go for a XL then. Have to think about it a little more.
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Was in the bike shop today because I broke my full face racing on the weekend and wanted to make sure I could get a replacement before the next race and they had a OneUp 180mm dropper on the shelf. So I bought that too and replaced the Bontrager 150mm that was on the bike. The OneUp had the exact same insertion length and slightly lower stack height. Fits perfectly and so now I have a 180mm dropper, just for info if anyone on a large and is 6' was interested in knowing.
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I´m 1.80 should I got for the M or L, does it have internal cabling for a dropper post? Does the frame come with the headset included? Also if I buy a trunnion shock do I need to by anything else to install or they ship the bushings with the frame?
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I'm 1.82 and got L, but it depends on the reach you would prefer.
Yes, it has internal dropper routing.
Frame came with headset
You'll need a bushing set for your shock. Off the top of my head, mine took 30mm
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I'm 1.82 and got L, but it depends on the reach you would prefer.
Yes, it has internal dropper routing.
Frame came with headset
You'll need a bushing set for your shock. Off the top of my head, mine took 30mm
Thanks, I think I will go with the FM936 considering they ship with a fork and for a better price.
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Thanks, I think I will go with the FM936 considering they ship with a fork and for a better price.
Might want to confirm that, when I was looking at them they offered a rear shock, at a reasonable additional cost. I know their product imagery shows a fork fitted but not necessarily included.
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Further update,
I've finally been able to get my hands on a proper trunnion mount shock (Fox DPS Factory damn!!!)
Can confirm that a 165x45 fits and cycles cleanly with plenty of rear arch clearance as previously confirmed in this thread.
- I really need to work on a paint job for it.
- Still sitting on a hacked RS Revelation out the front, I don't like it. My old Reba was plush, my Lyrik is plush, this revelation is harsh, blows through its travel and is just unfun. Once I can get a 34SC I think that will get it there.
- Change the DT trail rim out back for a carbon rim. Just waiting for CarbonBeam to have a sale again to pick up one of theirs.
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Little bit of an update to my cracked chain stay. I did receive my replacement from ican but I've continued to use the cracked one to see what happens. Cracking grew a little but has then held steady. I recently destroyed a chain ring so whilst I had the crank off I did some exploratory sanding. Interestingly it would appear there was a layup fault that had been "fixed" with fibre filler. I think the filler has cracked not the carbon.
I'll purchase some ud tape and epoxy and see how I go for effecting a repair.
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I’ve finally finished building mine up and have had a chance to put around 200 miles and 30,000’ of climbing/descending on it. Decided to run 45mm stroke on the rear shock to give me ~112mm rear travel with a 120mm fork and it rides great. Mine came in at 23.5# as pictured. My previous XC bike was a hardtail so I can’t say what a “good” XC suspension platform feels like in comparison, but I’ve felt like it offers plenty of pedaling support while remaining active enough to make trail riding fun. Overall, really happy with the bike. It’s been a blast.
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I'm jumping on the bandwagon! It was a difficult choice between this and the Carbonda FM936, but have decided to go this route. I'm really looking forward to getting it built up.
Quick question. When I landed on the iCan website from my phone the other day, a 5% off coupon code popped up. It indicated that it would be emailed to be, but I have not seen it (even in my spam folder). Does anybody happen to know what this code is?
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I'm jumping on the bandwagon! It was a difficult choice between this and the Carbonda FM936, but have decided to go this route. I'm really looking forward to getting it built up.
Quick question. When I landed on the iCan website from my phone the other day, a 5% off coupon code popped up. It indicated that it would be emailed to be, but I have not seen it (even in my spam folder). Does anybody happen to know what this code is?
Figured it out. The coupon code is "ORDERBONUS"
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For those that have built this frame up, which fork offset did you use? I have ordered the frame and am just impatiently waiting for it to arrive. In the meantime, I'm piecing together my build. This was one of the fundamental questions I have on the build, is the fork offset.
I'm looking for a 34mm stanchion fork with 120mm travel.
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I ordered my frame with custom paint. I made final arrangements for color/size, etc.. on July 20, 2021 an the frame arrived on October 10, 2021. I guess that is just shy of 3 months.
Right now I am waiting on my front wheel to be re-laced. I have had a set of Carbonfan assym wheels for about three years. My old bike and fork were QR. Turns out the old front DT Swiss QR hub could not be upgraded to boost, but the rear could. It all started with a 1 1/8" Reba Air fork that I needed(wanted) to upgrade. So I went with a SID SL Select 100mm tapered in boost. This lead to my wheel being re-hubbed and spoked ; DT Swiss 350 Boost and DT Swiss aero spokes to replace the DT Swiss 350 QR and Pillar Aero XTRA spokes. I also swapped out the Monarch rear shock with a SIDLux.
The XT IceTech brakes are coming off the old bike, as are the 11 speed rear shifter, XT bottom bracket and XT crank, Maxxis Dissector tires, etc.. I haven't decided if I will add a dropper post and remote. I am thinking about the OneUp V2.
Someone asked about fork offset: Mine is a RockShox SID SL Select 29in Boost Fork Diffusion Black, 100mm, 44 Offset. The bike isn't finished, so I can't comment on whether the offset is appropriate or not for my riding.
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For those that have built this frame up, which fork offset did you use? I have ordered the frame and am just impatiently waiting for it to arrive. In the meantime, I'm piecing together my build. This was one of the fundamental questions I have on the build, is the fork offset.
I'm looking for a 34mm stanchion fork with 120mm travel.
I currently have a 51mm Revelation but my bike shop is getting me a 44mm Fox 34 Step Cast if they ever come back into stock. The frame must be designed for shorter offset as my wheelbase is longer than spec with the revelation.
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The XT IceTech brakes are coming off the old bike, as are the 11 speed rear shifter, XT bottom bracket and XT crank, Maxxis Dissector tires, etc.. I haven't decided if I will add a dropper post and remote. I am thinking about the OneUp V2.
Interesting choice of tyres. Ican claim 29er to 2.35" so will be interested to see how you go with a 2.4 in there. 27.5x2.4 dissector certainly fits easily though.
*edit* Just thought I'd add, I have the OneUP 180mm dropper in my large frame, and don't have it fully inserted. I am 6'/182cm I think I could have got away with the 210 version! Although the 180 is almost comical in how much it goes up and down! I originally had a Bontrager 150mm and the max insertion length on it was the same as the OneUp.
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Interesting choice of tyres. Ican claim 29er to 2.35" so will be interested to see how you go with a 2.4 in there. 27.5x2.4 dissector certainly fits easily though....
I was really worried about tire clearance on this frame and I almost went a different direction because of it. However, I'm glad I pulled the trigger. Below are a couple of pictures showing the tire clearance with a 29" rim with a 35mm inner width with a 2.5 maxxis aggressor mounted. This is the wheel from my all mountain bike just to see if it would work. I held my breath and was VERY pleased to see the result.
FYI, from the time I placed the order to when it arrived at my house was 15 days! I thought I would have months to put the build together. Not so. :)
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Hi all! Has anyone had issues with this frame's bottom bracket? Everyone says avoid BSA BBs as they may detach from the frame...
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Hi all! Has anyone had issues with this frame's bottom bracket? Everyone says avoid BSA BBs as they may detach from the frame...
Only issue I had was the threads were a little galled and had to be cleaned first. No issue with separation and I ride it pretty hard.
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Can anybody share a picture of the dropper cable routing? Thanks!
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How is everyone finding the sizing of this frame?
I've got a medium Ripmo AF with 458mm Reach. I'm 5' 8.5" and find the bike to fit good if a touch long. A large Ripmo has a 475mm reach and would be too big for sure.
This S3 medium at 475 reach seems like it will be too big. But a small frame seems strange to me.
Anyone else dealt with this new sizing and had to size down?
Thank you.
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How is everyone finding the sizing of this frame?
I've got a medium Ripmo AF with 458mm Reach. I'm 5' 8.5" and find the bike to fit good if a touch long. A large Ripmo has a 475mm reach and would be too big for sure.
This S3 medium at 475 reach seems like it will be too big. But a small frame seems strange to me.
Anyone else dealt with this new sizing and had to size down?
Thank you.
Keep in mind that reach is independent of seat angle, so this frame with a 1° steeper seat tube has a shorter perceived reach. If your seat top is 600mm above the bottom bracket 1° steeper makes it 10mm more forward, so comparing with your Ripmo the perceived reach of the S3 would be more like 465, there are other factors at play too, because reach is not measured on the rotational centre of the bike, rather off the bottom bracket, if you put a 120mm fork on your S3 the result is an effective shortening of the reach from stock. Say this was another few mm and we are now at something like 462mm perceived reach - not all that different to the 458 Ripmo (which incidentally is a 160mm bike, so at 30% sag sits 48mm lower at the front compared to a 120mm bike which sits 40mm lower, further acting to close the reach gap).
Anyway, what I'm trying to say is it is a lot more complicated than just comparing a single figure on geometry to arrive at a conclusion, especially when the two bikes are aimed at different styles (for example, take a look at the reach numbers on dual crown downhill bikes!) A really great website to compare geometry is 99 Spokes - https://99spokes.com/en-AU/compare?bikes=vitus-rapide-fs-cr-mountain-2021;*z.MD|w.29,ibis-ripmo-af-slx-2021;*z.MD|w.29 (https://99spokes.com/en-AU/compare?bikes=vitus-rapide-fs-cr-mountain-2021;*z.MD|w.29,ibis-ripmo-af-slx-2021;*z.MD|w.29) this link compares the Ripmo with the Vitus Rapide FS which is a Vitus branded FM936 which is the same geo as the Ican S3 It makes it pretty easy to see what the differences are.
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Can anybody share a picture of the dropper cable routing? Thanks!
Dropper routing is all internal
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Thank you Ben. After further analysis, the medium does indeed look like the best fit.
Now to decide between this and the FM 909. Looking for AS and leverage numbers on that one.
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Greetings from Finland!
I received my Ican S3 frame yesterday. My experiences of full suspension bikes are from my current bike Rose Thrill Hill (2014) and previous Specialized Epic (2011)
The Ican S3 frame geometry looked like a solution for one of my problems, the lack of confidence in steep downhill sections.
My frame is size M. I am 174 cm short and my leg inner length is 82 cm. For size selection I used the size charts from Vitus and NS Bikes.
Compared to Rose Thrill hill, the reach is 54 mm longer, but on Thrill hill I use 100 mm stem.
I disassembled the frame and the overall quality is better than I expected. It even looks and feels better than Thrill Hill frame.
Bearings are smooth and packed with grease and linkage accessories seem to be mostly good quality (Shock mount top bolts feel soft)
Frame is factory black, but my plan is to paint the bike later.
Planned components:
Fork: Manitou R7 PRO 120mm ( Adjustable 100-120mm )
Shock: Manitou Mara ( If it will available before summer )
Wheels: DT Swiss 350 hubs (new model) and 25mm Zi25SL Slowbuild rims.
Tyres: Vittoria Mezcal ( 2.2 at back and 2.35 at front )
Groupset: Shimano XT M8100 12 speed
Seatpost: DT Swiss 232
Pedals: Shimano XT PD-M8100 SPD
Brakes: Formula Cura
Handlebar: Level Nine Pro Team carbon, 760mm
Stem: Level nine, 40-60mm
Grips: SRAM foam locking grips
Photos attached and I will keep you posted of the build progress.
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Hi all! Has anyone had issues with this frame's bottom bracket? Everyone says avoid BSA BBs as they may detach from the frame...
That sound really like the people that say don't buy chinese frames as they will break the moment you get on it.....
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I won't buy a frame that doesn't have BSA / T47. Threaded is the only way to go.
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I won't buy a frame that doesn't have BSA / T47. Threaded is the only way to go.
From an engineering POV, a properly toleranced bb92/bb86 is better because it allows for a wider BB area. The issue is most manufacturers have POS QA and that causes excessive bb wear/creaking. My Carbonda fm936 has 0 bb creaks and a well-toleranced bb bore.
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I'm very wary of threaded BBs on anything except steel frames.
Forum decided to delete two thirds of my post. Can't be arsed to rewrite. But TLDR:
IMO threaded is far more problematic than pf, and even if done perfectly it still represents a performance and design compromise over pf. Other industries long ago abandoned thread fits. Cycle industry is just too cheap to pay a few dollars extra to get pf tolerances acceptable.
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Just wanted to share, I've been riding my ICAN S3 for nearly 10 months, and have put a modest 1200km on it. This weekend just gone I entered a NSW Enduro series and decided to run the S3 rather than my S-Works Enduro - the particular course is very rocky off the top but transitions to flowy single track with berms and jumps, little else by way of technical features. Anyway, I took out P1 in my category and finished 17th overall from 110 participants.
I've ridden a lot of different bikes, and honestly this one has been the most fun I've ever had on a bike. If I could buy the exact same frame in 140mm travel I'd be all over it, I think then I'd sell my Enduro as it would be redundant! (for the courses I ride anyway).
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@Ben78 how's the frame stiffness? Did you notice any flex/wiggle-wobble under hard corners, etc? Always hard to tell just how slender the frame really is/isn't, and how it will ride just by looking at pics.
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Just finished my 2022 Ican S3 build and have a few Urban rides on it (still fat bike season where I am and trails are ice and slush). So far this is pretty stiff and nimble but will know for sure in the next few weeks when trails open up. I have to say Im impressed with the quality on this frame, it is my second ICAN (built up a SN04 fatty for my wife last year and she has over 2500 miles on some pretty rough terrain and it has been flawless).
Disassembled the frame to vinyl wrap it and pivots were all nice sealed bearings and fit was good so it all went back together well. Put pretty decent components on it, not all high end (XX1 drive w/Quarq power meter, carbon rims with I9 hubs, with One up seat post, carbon bars, and pedals). Not the lightest XC bike since I went with some trail components for durability like the rims, SRAM G2 brakes, and a heavy power meter spider but seems to be in the 24-25lb range (on my cheap bathroom scale) and the frame didnt do me any favors.
Think I am going to like it, I will report back after a few hundred miles this month.
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My bike build is now almost completed. I will still add some vinyl wrap details to match the golden brakes.
Based on short rides in the yard, it feels more stable than my XC bike.
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What does the finished bike weigh in at? Ican shows it as just shy of 30 pounds. Could this be built light enough to do XC racing?
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What does the finished bike weigh in at? Ican shows it as just shy of 30 pounds. Could this be built light enough to do XC racing?
Looking at Ican's build spec, the weight is mainly in the fork and tires. The Judy fork is a boat anchor... the upper stanchion tubes are straight-wall steel tubing, vs taper-wall, or an alloy tube. And the tires alone are nearly 1kg/2.2lbs each. The GX components are fairly light, so there's not much weight savings by switching to XO or XX (full disclosure: I work for SRAM, and I run GX. It's the best bang for the buck out there!) Going back to tires for a second, a Maxxis Ikon weighs significantly less than the Minion, so theoretically you could drop 1.5-2lbs there, and its rotational mass so the benefits would be greater than just dropping component weight. The Judy would be a good chunk of heft to get rid of as well. It weighs in at nearly 2.5lbs more than a SID. Also, keep in mind, you've got an extra set of pivots on the chainstays, which means you have bearings & hardware to account for in the overall weight. While the bike is virtually is identical to the Carbonda FM936 (probably both made on the same line), the 936 is a flex-stay rear end and will weigh less than an equal-sized S3 because of the lack of those pivots & related bits.
Honestly, if you're going the complete bike route, I'd swap tires to something lighter, then run it until time and $ allow for a fork upgrade. There's nothing wrong with the Judy as a set-n-forget fork. It works smoothly & without much fuss, so just run it till it's done.
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What does the finished bike weigh in at? Ican shows it as just shy of 30 pounds. Could this be built light enough to do XC racing?
Hi, my S3 hovers around 25-26lb, depending on the tyres. Eventually when I can buy a 34SC fork i should get to 24-25lb. Not super light, but is actually a fun ride. I had a full XC race bike before and whilst quick, it wasn't something I was happy to spend 3+ hours on.
Currently my component list is
Revelation Fork
Truvativ carbon bars
Magura MT Trail Brakes
Microshift Advent X 10 speed
SLX Crankset
FOX DPS Factory shock (165x45)
Dropper OneUp 180mm
Saddle Giant Contact SLR Forward (Carbon, 173g)
CarbonBeam 30x30 front and 34x23 rear with Venfort Pro4 hubs (DT Clone) and Pillar TB2018 3B spokes (XC)
DT Swiss XM481 with Venfort Pro4 hubs and Pillar TB2018 spokes (Enduro, currently waiting delivery of hubs)
Front tyre Specialized Ground Control Grid 2.35 (XC)
Rear tyre Specialized Fast Trak Control 2.3 (XC)
Front Tyre Pirelli Trail S 2.4 (Enduro)
Rear Tyre Maxxis Aggressor 2.3 (Enduro)
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@Ben78 how's the frame stiffness? Did you notice any flex/wiggle-wobble under hard corners, etc? Always hard to tell just how slender the frame really is/isn't, and how it will ride just by looking at pics.
I don't notice any flex, but I'd be interested in trying to get some slow motion video to see if I can see it moving around. But then, if I don't notice it, does it matter?
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the FM936 and the FM909 are also bikes I am looking at for xc racing. Maybe a little lighter. But also the might be flexy in the rear. Since the stays are flex stays.
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Ordered my XL yesterday. Doing a budget XC build. Sitting at 2500 bucks CAD with everything in. When the frame arrives and I get it built up I’ll post some photos.
Fork Judy Gold RL 120
Shock Suntour Duair RL
Wheels Brand X trail wheelset * nukeproof ard
Tires Frt Nobby Nic rear Racing Ralph
Crank: sram sx eagle 34 dub
Dt: deore 12 speed
Brake: deore 2 pot
Bars: Nukeproof Horizon v2 780
Stem: zitto green 35 mm
Dropper: limotec alpha 1
Grips: ESI Chunky Monkey Green
Weight : 29 ish pounds.
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Has anyone from the UK ordered one of these frames? How long was delivery
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Has anyone from the UK ordered one of these frames? How long was delivery
Took 6 days to Canada can’t imagine it taking longer if they have stock unless UK customs are as brutal as all the other rules/regs there.
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Just adding the finishing touches today.
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32.1 pounds with a dropper, Chinese cassette and inserts. Like to get a Sid if the frame holds up, and drop the weight more.
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Interested in how the frame holds up, lovely bike btw, your stem is upside down though
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I know the stem is upside down. Don’t intend on changing it.
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I know the stem is upside down. Don’t intend on changing it.
To get a different angle or something? I've a p9 btw, been faultless so would definitely buy an Ican again
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Thanks! And that’s good to hear! I’m a big 6’5 295 lbs guy so if this holds up I’ll be tickled pink. Have hit the trails and some jumps and small drops without issue so far! And it is slightly dropped with the stem upside down but more or less to cause chaos lol!
I’d love a better fork, the Judy was a good deal and all I could find, but am going to keep eyes open for a 110-120 Sid, Sector or Pike, or a 34!
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Interested in how the frame holds up, lovely bike btw, your stem is upside down though
I literally flog the piss out of mine. Early on I had a small chainstay issue which ICAN sent me a new one - but I never changed the old one out. Regularly race enduro on mine, great frame.
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Thanks! And that’s good to hear! I’m a big 6’5 295 lbs guy so if this holds up I’ll be tickled pink. Have hit the trails and some jumps and small drops without issue so far! And it is slightly dropped with the stem upside down but more or less to cause chaos lol!
I’d love a better fork, the Judy was a good deal and all I could find, but am going to keep eyes open for a 110-120 Sid, Sector or Pike, or a 34!
I'm 6ft 220lbs so not a small guy either, plenty of jumps and drops done so I'd be confident enough in quality of their frames
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I see they have a new paint color frame on their website, has anyone tried this color?
https://icancycling.com/collections/mtb-frame/products/xc-full-suspension-mtb-bike-frame-s3 (https://icancycling.com/collections/mtb-frame/products/xc-full-suspension-mtb-bike-frame-s3)
(https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0871/7140/products/MTBframeS3_4.jpg?v=1641462270&width=1000)
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New Fork. The Judy was awful, but found this 100 mm XC 32 Stepcast and rode it on local enduro trails/park today and it’s really shinned today on natural hand built flow vs the machine cut trails.
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Well, put my order in for a XL, unpainted....
We will see how long it takes to get to the UK, and how much I get stung on tax....
Also had to order some parts from germany, as there is no UK stock of anything worthwhile at a sensible price....
Its going to have a mix of spares and new bit build....
Rockshox Dulux 165*40
SID ultimates 120mm
GX/XT/XX1 mixed drivetrain
DT 240/EX511 wheels
Hopefully it holds up to the rocks in the peak, compounded by my inelegant line choices.....
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511 is an odd choice for a bike like this but you do you! I recently went to 471 on my S-works Enduro because I was sick of breaking wheels and they are proving strong. Have carbon on the S3 and have been very happy with how they perform. XM series rims are lighter build than EX but are still quite strong. I put a couple of thousand km of rocky riding on a XM401 with no troubles.
It's been 3 weeks now, did your frame arrive ok?
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What headset type does this frame use? If it's ZS it could take -2 deg angleset right?
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What headset type does this frame use? If it's ZS it could take -2 deg angleset right?
IS42/52
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Got my turq frame! Build is underway, pics to come. Used the Wilderwild frame wrap and while a bit painstaking, came out great.
Build specs
-Pike 130
-DPS float 165x45
-GX drivetrain (carbon cranks)
-Deore brakes
-Reverb dropper
-SC reserve rims MX
-Fasstcompany flex bars
-Continental Mtn King Tires
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Hi peoples.
I have an excessive amount of play in the upper headset bearing, can anyone confirm that this is bad?
The lower headset bearing does not have this amount of play, although it also doesnt come anywhere near requiring a press to push in.
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/mZ9OTKYVmu4
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I've been informed (via another source) that the wrong bearing was supplied.
It seems they have supplied me with an IS41 upper headset instead of IS42 :(
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Can anyone tell me whether it is normal for the upper headset bearing to be sticking out of the frame by a couple of millimetres?
Seems to leave quite a large gap for the seal to cover
Upper bearing fit is still quite slack with the replaced bearing.
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Contact Ican about the exact size needed. Maybe this one is too high.
Try to mount the full headset if you can, and you'll see for sure if there is a problem.
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Thanks for the reply, yes its the correct bearing height (6.5mm) i think im just going to have to deal with a larger gap between headset and frame (was more wondering how other S3s came out).
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Been running mine for a while now and been pretty happy with it, funnily enough, its a bit of a rougher ride in the chunky stuff than my coil shocked enduro bike ;)
But that was the point really, I wanted a different bike that I would take on ground covering rides that weren't that technical, and were a chore on the enduro bike.
As called out, the EX511 rims aren't really in keeping with the spirit of the build, but I am using the spare wheels I had for races/trips etc.
I may build up a more XC set at some point when I have the time and inclination, but I do ride in a very rocky area, and like straying into techy territory, and have rubbish line choice.
The only thing that is annoying me really is the shock doesn't have a remote, and its a pain to lock out without stopping and not getting you hand caught by my feet/cranks....
Its a pain, and really I need to stop, and lock/unlock the shock.
I really didn't think it would bother me, but there you go....
I'lll live with it until a remote lockout kit comes available for the SIDlux
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I just built up my s3 over the winter. It's my first mtb so I don't have much to compare it to. I was just looking for a budget bike I could race in some local xc events. Tried keeping it somewhat light for a few races, but budget limited me on some things.
Specs:
Fork: Sid ultimate 120
Rear shock: Dps performance 165x45
Crank:. Stages LR XTR 36t
Shift: XTR shift/xt rear derailleur
Cassette: slx 10-45
Brakes: xt 8000
Bars: race face next 700mm
Wheels: hunt race xc wide
Tire:. Specialized ground control/FasTrack 29x2.35
Pedal: xtr
Right now I'm at right around 25lbs. I'm thinking of swapping to some iKon/rekon 2.20, so hopefully that will lighten things up. Have a transfer sl dropper on the way, but honestly not sure I'll need it.
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Hey guys, does anyone know the dimensions of the required rear bearings? (linkage, main pivot, upper seat stay)
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Resurrecting this thread...are there any alternative suppliers to ICAN for this frame? I'm interested in a medium but sometimes there are alternatives.
Geometry numbers are pretty dialed if they are accurate. 500mm reach on a large??? 470 on a medium. I'd run it with a 45mm stroke shock and 130mm fork (as that's what I have). Should slack it out to ~65.5* and 465mm reach, raise the BB a tiny bit.
My BMC is getting tired and it may be time for a replacement.
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whelp, I bought what might be the last S3. There was a sale that ended yesterday, so I scooped it up. We'll see!