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Messages - TCal

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1
Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: Velobuild VB-R-168 Frame
« on: April 19, 2024, 07:28:39 AM »
Wow. Thanks Serge for posting. Is refreshing to see another build where common sense decisions are made with a build. Not every build needs to be electronic grupo. Don’t have anything against electronic. Is just so damn expensive.  ::) There is still such a thing as good, dependable use out of traditional mech.  I am using similar break calipers (hydro piston with mechanical cable actuation) , I like them. So far they are dependable and easy to adjust. What’s your take on them?
 I went with 50m deep rims with more of an oblong shape. I have 60m deep rims on my specialized tarmac and I find those behave like sails in the wind.  The 50m deep are less so.  Also the Sensah 2x11 setup with mid size cage is working nice also. Snappy shifting and very little need for adjusting.  I am using a Shimano 105 front mech with the trimming feature. It is playing well with the Sensah front shifter.  Love the feature. 
As for ride feel, I agree. This rides so much smoother than my tarmac elite (older model circa 2011). Specially with the victoria corsa 32c tires. The bike accelerates well and holds its speed. Something I don’t feel on my older tarmac.
And most importantly , keeping the build simple and mechanical makes it both affordable and easy to maintain with my amateur mechanic skill set. We all now we can use a bit of both always. Cheers and thanks for sharing.

2
Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: Velobuild VB-R-168 Frame
« on: April 16, 2024, 08:09:45 PM »
Thanks. I had it ordered before the 268 was released. Had I known… the 4 hoses went through fine. A bit of work but doable.  Also routing through the integrated cockpit was a bit of work but again very doable.

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Had to dig for this thread in the deep, with all the new banter about VBR-268, this poor little thread is getting forgotten.

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I bought a set of rim break, 60mm deep wheels over a year ago.  No issues. I am about to mount a pair of 50mm disc wheel set I recently bought from them on a current build.  Looking good so far. 

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Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: Velobuild VB-R-168 Frame
« on: February 04, 2024, 03:36:10 PM »
For anybody wondering, the spec on the mounting screws for the disc brakes on the VBR-168 is M5.  confirmed by velobuild via email exchange.  Additionally, on the issue of installing the FD and routing the cable through the frame, I ended up routing above the bottom bracket. The geometry in this region of the frame allows for a nice soft curve as the inner cable makes its way from the down tube to the FD cable exit hole.  I did take a bit of material off the cable stop on the side facing the frame, about 2 to 3 mm approximately. This allowed the cable to land at the stop at a lesser acute angle, still maintaining a good vertical direction as it rides up to the FD mech.
Going against the grain of the advice here about Sensah front mech, I went ahead with the install and it was pretty effortless. Just make sure the cable is routed cleanly from the front brifter. My first attempt had me cabling through the brifter in one of its “trimming” positions. Make sure that the lever is fully released in its small ring position when pulling the cable through.

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Does anybody know the mounting screw spec for the direct mount disc breaks? Is it M5 or M6? I am missing one for the Fork. I believe they are 15mm deep on the thread. Will be purchasing on Ebay or AliX. Thanks.

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Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: Sensah Empire FD Stiff
« on: February 03, 2024, 04:52:18 PM »
I ended up installing the Sensah FD anyway, and was successful in getting it to move.  I am using Jagwaire compression less cables.  I think my initial error was not fully disengaging the shifter to its resting position.  The thing does have a “trimming” feature that is easy to overlook. Thanks folks. Will report back on how it works.

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I have bought two sets of wheels from them. On set of 60mm deep rims I have had for over 5,000 km. No issues. The included Novotech hubs are pretty basic, serviceable. 

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Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components / Sensah Empire FD Stiff
« on: February 03, 2024, 10:30:49 AM »
Hey folks.

I am doing a slow build of a velobuild 168 this winter/spring.  I have in hand a Sensah empire 2x11 group set.  I am finding the FD is super stiff.  Turning the pull arm over with my hands requires an effort just shy of Herculean.  Installing the cable from the brifter reveals the cable is pulling the right amount, but fails to move the arm on the FD, arm too stiff perhaps? Have you encountered this? Any thoughts on how to release some tension on the FD spring, if that is even possible? Many thanks.

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Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: Velobuild VB-R-168 Frame
« on: January 31, 2024, 04:37:56 PM »
@TCal

I've just sent you a PM on my instal method :)

For the filing, you need to file the inside of the cable stop where the outer enters the stop, I needed to 'open' the hole up on the cable stop so the angle to cable entered wasn't so tight.

Got it. And got your PM. Thanks again for your help.  Seems I am on the right path.

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Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: Velobuild VB-R-168 Frame
« on: January 31, 2024, 12:58:56 PM »
@olliesimpson

Tell me again about filling the FD cable stop.  I am encountering the same issue, I filled it a bit but it is still not a perfect fit alignment to push the cable stop back into the frame.

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Greetings VBR-168 community,

today my question to you folks is about the routing of the front derailleur cable. Having successfuly threaded the four cables of my fully mechanical setup through the integrated cockpit i proceeded to route the cables through the frame (i started the other way around, frame first then handlebar... well that didn't work!). I have now routed all four cables to their locations, RD is in place, RB is in place, FB is in place. When it comes to the FD I have routed the outter cable bellow the bottom bracket shell (Token Ninja Thread together), as others here have done, so that it can make the bend upwards towards exiting the frame. As the cable outer makes its way to the metal exit grommet provided I found that the way the piece was manufactured makes it impossible for the end of the cable outer to sit within it. Dont ask for a pic because is nearly impossible to see the area in question without an endoscope.

I ended up modifying the piece with a dremmel by opening the aperture of the grommet piece facing the inside of the frame so that the end of the outer cable has a better chance at sitting with in it.  Still not perfect fit. However, the cable inner does slides on through the grommet as intended.

I get to my question, How critical for shfting performance on the FD is it to have full contact on the cable outer into the grommet from inside the frame? In other setups that use just the inner cable, or in  external cable routing setups (without the outter cable) the cable is doing all the tension work. Seems to me that under this scenario the cable outer is not carrying much load, if any, and what is more important is to have proper tension on the inner cable. Does that make sense? Some pics for reference are below

13
ATM, you can only really save serious money if you go full low budget with direct2consumer-parts from China. I built my TT-X38 with LTWOO er9, Magene powermeter and full carbon wheels + a number of 2nd hand parts (like my Sram cranks, saddle and Vittoria tires) for less than 2.5k EUR. But to do that, you're required to invest A LOT of time researching parts, be prepared to deal with problems when building the bike up and you need to take the risk that customer service and warranty might be troublesome or even more or less non existent.

I mean, there's a GIANT concept store in my city. For not that much more money, I could probably walk in there, grab a bike and come back and have the shop deal with issues, should there be any. But for me, this is also about the journey. I like to come up with the idea of "my dream bike", source all the parts and think every little detail through and then build up something that I couldn't buy anywhere else and that potentially no one else has.
Agree Completely.

14
I’m going to be honest here: I very much miss the glory days of this forum during the pandemic years. It was a perfect storm. People were stuck at home with extra discretionary income and free-time, while major bike brands were dealing with fulfillment delays. The rise of Chinese alternatives during this time brought so much excitement to this forum. Forum members were passionate about helping each other, and the overall vibe felt like a positive community of budget-minded enthusiasts. You could easily spend hours each day reading pages upon pages of new posts. The forum was basically a party everyday. I’m lucky to have joined during COVID.


Preach!


For all the chatter around here about prices leveling up, or cooling market conditions, it is still the case that to buy “quality” however you choose to define it, it is upward from 3k/4k mucho dollars. For me, is about the love of riding, and riding the bike that I invest on building myself, versus the bike marketeering wants me to buy.  I choose the former. The bike I need/love versus the bike somebody else wants me to have.  The love for building things, plus the love of riding. And Life is good.

I am in the middle of two builds, both Velobuild. A 168 and CX-02 because we all know, cross will come again. Velobuild’s customer service has worked for me.  When certain pieces had been left out of the shipping, VB issued them asap much to my delight (and quiet frankly, my surprise).

Being somewhat of a late comer to the forums, I have found reading through the posts, old and new, to be highly instructive, timely and relevant.  Being a late buyer of a velobuild, I am seeying their product has evolved from the early days and the build issues that others have had, I have either averted them, or prepared for them. Some issues have disappeared completely, like the headset dust cap issue of it rubbing against the the top of the head tube. That particular issue has been engineered out in the frames that I have.

Keep up the engagement and the passion isn the forum.
Onward onward. 

15
+1 on the garden hose clamp + cheap hacksaw. I've cut 5 steerers like that, 4 carbon, 1 alu. I changed the blade once, probably should have changed it more often. The local DYI store sells blades for very cheap.
Spray water to avoid breathing in the carbon dust. You'll be shocked to see how black the water gets. You definitely don't want to breathe that.
Don't use a pipe cutter on a carbon steerer, you may crush and delaminate the carbon.
I went this exact same route. Does the job. No specialty tools needed. 

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