Yeah, I had to drive an hour and a half to go pick up the groupset but was worth it. I haven't found another used hydraulic groupset anywhere since for a decent price.  I did have to spend $70 on (2) 160mm rotors & a $20 shim kit for the rear brake caliper (previous owner used 140mm rotors). Oh, and a bottom bracket was $35 from Amazon.  So, probably $650 total.

The bar tape was $15 from Amazon.  Link below.  I also included 2 pictures to show you how it reflects.  In the shade it's just purple but in the sun it looks pretty cool.  The only negative which might be a deal breaker for some is it's pretty slick.  Not grippy at all.  But the wife says she has no problems with it.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RBVYY72?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

wow that sounds nasty. Good thing you've recovered.

My dropout looks the same (shallow). I do check my skewers and retighten them every so often (on the Velobuild and also brand name bikes). Also in my case, I think it would be harder for the wheel to roll out from under, my derailleur (Sensah Empire) angle position seems to make it hard for me to remove the wheel so any loosening my tires will probably rub the chain stay (25C tires).

Just curious, what skewers are on those wheels? I've read those super lightweight skewers don't clamp as well so I ended up with the stock heavy ones from my wheels.

I like that they have a decent looking aluminum bar option at a reasonable price. The 75mm reach makes it something I'd be interested in as well. But, $275 puts the carbon option out of consideration when there would be so many other brands to look at in that price range.

I would also like to know why you think all aliexpress carbon bars are prone to cracking. I took the gamble on a set of EC90 bars and I'm pleased so far. It has cosmetic issues, but seems well built enough to not have to worry about it imploding in the middle of a hard sprint.

Looking at the Sensah shifting mechanism, the shift lever extends further inward compared to Shimano shift levers, hence the looser hoods. Who knows if they were forced to design it that way due to skirting around patents?

I do feel like Shimano levers are a tad more accurate at indexing especially in the smaller cogs, but the Sensah shifters seem to do better when shifting under load when going into the big cassette cogs. Also for some reason, I find Sensah shifting somewhat enjoyable, like you want to constantly shift gears just to hear the clicks! Shimano shifting feels a bit sterile if that makes sense?

They also have this one for even cheaper ($359) https://www.the-house.com/frstrmb49zz-framed-bikes
Same frame as the Velobuild GF-002

I'm currently using three 24mm alloy spindle cranksets, two are carbon and one is hollowed alloy. The cranksets I'm using all use the 2 pinch bolt setup similar to Shimano, but like I said they use the smaller M5 bolts (4mm hex) that aren't as strong as M6 (5mm hex) bolts that Shimano uses. The cranksets I have all use direct mount/GXP (3 torx bolts) chainrings while using the hollow tech style non-drive side, so they're a hybrid of Shimano and SRAM.

I'm somewhat determined to figure out these AliEx cranksets. The weight savings, price and direct mount/GXP chainring options are quite attractive. Also these 24mm axles use 7075 alloy and mine came with a date/time stamp on the shafts. Even though my cranksets were ordered from different vendors, the axles appear to be the same design that probably came out of a single factory. So far I haven't had any issues, though I rotate the bikes I ride based on my mood and terrain I'm riding in.

A previous post on here was talking about a different Zeroing crankset mentioning the preload alloy bolt as a weak point. So I'm wondering what the deal is? If it's garbage, has it been addressed or is it possibly user error? Also I don't take everything Trace Velo says as absolute, his last bike build had the same crankset I'm using and he mentioned flex and other issues. Yet I'm not having any of those problems.

They're almost there. The Racework carbon crankset I'm using is pretty darn good. They could have just ditched the 7075 alloy shaft, used a steel axle gaining a minor weight penalty/increased durability and swapped the M5/4mm hex bolts for M6/5mm hex bolts on the non-drive side crank arm. Also I tend to like the flexibility of GXP/direct mount chainrings.