Chinertown
Chinese Carbon MTB => 29er => Topic started by: woodsrider on August 05, 2018, 07:33:57 PM
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CS-057 - There is a little slop between the thru axle and the dropouts - not much, but it is there. I'm using the thru axle that Peter sent with the frame. I've been out of the game a while and this is my first bike build with a rear thru axle. Is this normal?
Also, is there a threaded hanger that will fit this frame? I don't care for the exterior nut and the little set screw.
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Yes, there's some slop.
When the China axle no longer held I replaced it with a DT Swiss. I could not find a threaded hanger, but the DT Swiss but hold in place much better than the China one.
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Yes, there's some slop.
When the China axle no longer held I replaced it with a DT Swiss. I could not find a threaded hanger, but the DT Swiss but hold in place much better than the China one.
Which DT Swiss axle did you get? Thanks
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I would firstly check if your hub is 142mm wide.
If not, maybe did forget a shim somewhere(eg: between two cassette cogs, or a hub end-cap, a shim inside the freewheel, etc. ) ?
This is a good axle a lot here are using: https://r2-bike.com/DT-SWISS-Thru-Axle-RW-RWS-12x142-mm-E-Thru
You can order a couple of nuts M12x1.5 too in case you loose one: https://r2-bike.com/SHIFT-UP-Nut-M12-for-Shimano-E-Thru-Thru-Axle-12-x-142-mm
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I would firstly check if your hub is 142mm wide.
If not, maybe did forget a shim somewhere(eg: between two cassette cogs, or a hub end-cap, a shim inside the freewheel, etc. ) ?
This is a good axle a lot here are using: https://r2-bike.com/DT-SWISS-Thru-Axle-RW-RWS-12x142-mm-E-Thru
You can order a couple of nuts M12x1.5 too in case you loose one: https://r2-bike.com/SHIFT-UP-Nut-M12-for-Shimano-E-Thru-Thru-Axle-12-x-142-mm
The play is within the dropouts, not between them. It's like the axle is too small a diameter, causing a little play inside the dropouts. Thanks for the link.
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The play is within the dropouts, not between them. It's like the axle is too small a diameter, causing a little play inside the dropouts. Thanks for the link.
Is it the axle that is less than 12mm diameter or the drop out holes that are bigger ?
If the later, a new axle won't help.
Did you order spare dropouts with the frame, that you could swap ?
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The play is within the dropouts, not between them. It's like the axle is too small a diameter, causing a little play inside the dropouts. Thanks for the link.
Is it the axle that is less than 12mm diameter or the drop out holes that are bigger ?
If the later, a new axle won't help.
Did you order spare dropouts with the frame, that you could swap ?
(http://)
My calipers are a cheap digital set and I can't tell that there is a measurable difference - I can just feel it. I did get an extra set of dropouts and they are the same. It's not that big of an issue, especially in light of two new developments. Maybe I can get some more help with the new issues.
1) I ordered a set of wheels from Peter and specified thru axle for rear and QR for front. Front wheel came with thru axle hub. It's a DT Swiss 350 hub (15x100). Will something like this work to convert to 5x100 QR?
https://www.amazon.com/Quick-Release-Skewers-Adapter-Conversion/dp/B072MH2BZF/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_468_lp_t_3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=HCEEK5PZX310ASHC0P4Z&dpID=31w4lsodwRL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=detail
2) I am using a Shimano XT FC M-8000 chainring as 1x11 with XT cassette and derailleur. I ended up with a SRAM PC X1 11 speed chain. I have mixed Shimano and SRAM parts forever with no problems. However, the chain will not ride on that ring. Ideas? It's not the chainline.
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Hey everyone... Im new here and also looking for some help with my rear thru axle. Im pretty much done building my first CCB... It's cs-496, a hardtail, with boost spacing. I bought a dt Swiss boost wheelset with an xd freehub and sram eagle 10-50t cassette. But when mounted, there is a gap along the axle on the non drive side(disc side) between the rotor and the left side dropout. Like the end cap doesn't protrude beyond the rotor much... I feel like there should be a spacer or different end cap or something there. Looks like everything should be over to the left. Does anyone have any idea of what the problem is?
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I would firstly check if your hub is 142mm wide.
If not, maybe did forget a shim somewhere(eg: between two cassette cogs, or a hub end-cap, a shim inside the freewheel, etc. ) ?
This is a good axle a lot here are using: https://r2-bike.com/DT-SWISS-Thru-Axle-RW-RWS-12x142-mm-E-Thru
You can order a couple of nuts M12x1.5 too in case you loose one: https://r2-bike.com/SHIFT-UP-Nut-M12-for-Shimano-E-Thru-Thru-Axle-12-x-142-mm
This is the Axle I ordered and have used for 2 years now.
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1) I ordered a set of wheels from Peter and specified thru axle for rear and QR for front. Front wheel came with thru axle hub. It's a DT Swiss 350 hub (15x100). Will something like this work to convert to 5x100 QR?
https://www.amazon.com/Quick-Release-Skewers-Adapter-Conversion/dp/B072MH2BZF/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_468_lp_t_3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=HCEEK5PZX310ASHC0P4Z&dpID=31w4lsodwRL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=detail
DT Swiss is making their own, although much more expensive: https://r2-bike.com/DT-SWISS-Conversion-Kit-FW-350-370-Disc-Brake-to-Quick-Release
The ZTTO gives me the impression the hub could have some lateral float on the axle.
2) I am using a Shimano XT FC M-8000 chainring as 1x11 with XT cassette and derailleur. I ended up with a SRAM PC X1 11 speed chain. I have mixed Shimano and SRAM parts forever with no problems. However, the chain will not ride on that ring. Ideas? It's not the chainline.
An 11sp chain of any brand will work. The problem is probably elsewhere.
Is the chainring new ?
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Hey everyone... Im new here and also looking for some help with my rear thru axle. Im pretty much done building my first CCB... It's cs-496, a hardtail, with boost spacing. I bought a dt Swiss boost wheelset with an xd freehub and sram eagle 10-50t cassette. But when mounted, there is a gap along the axle on the non drive side(disc side) between the rotor and the left side dropout. Like the end cap doesn't protrude beyond the rotor much... I feel like there should be a spacer or different end cap or something there. Looks like everything should be over to the left. Does anyone have any idea of what the problem is?
What DT Swiss hub model do you have ? If you compare your hub with a picture from the web, does it look all end caps/parts are there ?
Did you check if your hub is 148mm wide ?
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1) I ordered a set of wheels from Peter and specified thru axle for rear and QR for front. Front wheel came with thru axle hub. It's a DT Swiss 350 hub (15x100). Will something like this work to convert to 5x100 QR?
https://www.amazon.com/Quick-Release-Skewers-Adapter-Conversion/dp/B072MH2BZF/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_468_lp_t_3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=HCEEK5PZX310ASHC0P4Z&dpID=31w4lsodwRL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=detail
DT Swiss is making their own, although much more expensive: https://r2-bike.com/DT-SWISS-Conversion-Kit-FW-350-370-Disc-Brake-to-Quick-Release
The ZTTO gives me the impression the hub could have some lateral float on the axle.
2) I am using a Shimano XT FC M-8000 chainring as 1x11 with XT cassette and derailleur. I ended up with a SRAM PC X1 11 speed chain. I have mixed Shimano and SRAM parts forever with no problems. However, the chain will not ride on that ring. Ideas? It's not the chainline.
An 11sp chain of any brand will work. The problem is probably elsewhere.
Is the chainring new ?
All new parts. The chain just simply does not want to mesh with the chain ring. I found one article that said Shimano and SRAM parts are interchangeable except for 11 speed chains. I don't know. I have ordered a Shimano chain to try.
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I found one article that said Shimano and SRAM parts are interchangeable except for 11 speed chains. I don't know. I have ordered a Shimano chain to try.
I have had all kinds of chain issues in my riding past. The ONLY chain i will use now is the KMC X series chain. Not any of the lightweight ones either. All the lightweight chains give up too soon. Yes the standard X series chain is a little heavier but if you're counting that many grams then you should switch to road biking :P And the KMC chains work well with all manufacturers. I've been pounding on mine for over a year now with no measurable stretch or shifting issues. I even use an oval chainring with narrow wide teeth.
FYI: Out of all the chains i have used the Shimano ones were by far the worst :-\
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I found one article that said Shimano and SRAM parts are interchangeable except for 11 speed chains. I don't know. I have ordered a Shimano chain to try.
I have had all kinds of chain issues in my riding past. The ONLY chain i will use now is the KMC X series chain. Not any of the lightweight ones either. All the lightweight chains give up too soon. Yes the standard X series chain is a little heavier but if you're counting that many grams then you should switch to road biking :P And the KMC chains work well with all manufacturers. I've been pounding on mine for over a year now with no measurable stretch or shifting issues. I even use an oval chainring with narrow wide teeth.
FYI: Out of all the chains i have used the Shimano ones were by far the worst :-\
At this point, I don't care about weight or which brand - I just want something that works. Good info, thanks.
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For the record, in case anyone else runs into the same problem, the Shimano XT chain works just fine. I was pretty confident that there were no issues with the chain line and the new chain confirmed it. So, if you are going to run a Shimano chainring as 1X11, you might want to get something besides a SRAM chain.
I've never had an issue interchanging parts from the two manufacturers, until now.
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More thru axle woes. I bought a cheap thru axle converter to change the front DT 350 hub to a 5x100 QR. Cabonazza was right - there is too much lateral play. Today I received the DT Swiss end caps but can't figure out how to remove the existing thru axle caps. I pulled on them a little with some pliers but didn't want to screw up anything.
Help please.
(http://)
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Carbonazza... Thank you. I didn't even think to measure the hub. I trusted that the wheel I bought was what it was said to be. Sure enough.. I measured.. And it was off. Took a closer look and it's missing the end cap on the left side.
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Carbonazza... Thank you.
Happy to know my similar past experience helped you ;)