See likes given/taken
Post info | No. of Likes |
---|---|
Re: Carbonda fm936 Thoughts
I would definitely go with a hub that can be serviced and has readily available bearings, freewheels, etc. I have a set of light bicycle 32h rims laced to American Classic (went out of business) 350 disc hubs that I just converted to boost and XD driver. I am concerned with finding XD drivers going forward...but the bearings are readily available in low and high quality. +1 on brass nippels when using carbon rims! I learned the lesson about brass nipples the hard way. Stan's fluid is apparently caustic (due to ammonia in it) and ate the tops off all the aluminum nipples. I had to cut several spokes to get the wheel apart to swap the hub. Nothing like cutting $3.50 Sapim bladed spokes with wire cutters... ![]() I am rebuilding the wheel with brass. I'll take the 12g penalty! July 30, 2020, 03:14:21 PM |
2 |
Re: ZTTO MTB M1 Boost hubs 28H 54T Ratchet
added to the ever expanding alixpress cart I recently found that the AliExpress app limits your cart to 100 items. ![]() July 30, 2020, 06:05:51 PM |
1 |
Re: Carbonda fm936 Thoughts
Carbon or Aluminium rims? Carbon July 31, 2020, 02:10:04 AM |
1 |
Re: Carbonda fm936 Thoughts
Then it's quite obvious this happened. With an electrically conducive medium like tubeless milk (electrolyte) there is a electrochemical corrosion going on. The Aluminum has a lower valence than the carbon so there is a constant ions transport from aluminum to carbon. Ths makes the aluminum corrode. It really dissolves. This can even lead to a complete nipple head failure and the ripping apart of nipple head and rest of nipple. This also happens with water, but it takes longer as water is faster evaporating like the persistent milk. Awesome info. Any you're right. The tips of the nipples were nearly gone. Putting a screw driver in them was not possible as the slot was missing in most cases. I'm surprised I had not had complete failures up to that point. I think the stainless steel washers used were the only thing holding them in. These were black Sapim aluminum. 6 years old. Maybe 2-3 rim tape failures in the time I had them, so plenty of sealant contamination opportunities. Brass ones arrived Monday and brass ones will be used on all future wheels as well. Because this was a PITA and cost me $114 in spokes. That's for dang sure. I wanted those rims this time, but as I build them my own, I prefer not to have to fiddle that much with all those nipples. As brass nor aluminum are magnetic, this won't help you here I read that people thread a tiny steel bolt into the nipple and then use a magnet to pull them into the holes. Seems like a PITA. But I might try hole-less with the next set I built up. July 31, 2020, 11:43:12 AM |
1 |
Re: Carbonda fm936 Thoughts
Holy moly, these are looking bad. You had black sapim aluminum spacers under the nipple heads? And these looking great? Are you sure they are aluminum? You could try a magnet on them to find out. I wasn't very clear on that point. Nipples were aluminum, black Sapim. But under them were some stainless steel washers/spacers; definitely steel, probably stainless given that they had zero corrosion and could be removed from the nipples easily. Should I reuse these spacers on the new brass nipples? July 31, 2020, 12:06:14 PM |
1 |
Re: Lightcarbon LCFS937 Build
You are going to use the same components as on the merida and the new bike will be more expensive? Either the merdia frame is very cheap when you exclude all the components, or the LCF is very expensive. This is my thought as well. On my hardtail build in 2014, I had about $4k to spend. That would have gotten me (at the time), a 24lb bike built with upper-midrange components and likely aluminum wheels (remember, carbon was more of an expensive novelty even back then). Instead I built a 20lb bike with xx1/x01 and carbon wheels for the same money. There was a ~$1000 difference for the frame (Branded to Open Mold) and ~$700 difference on the carbon wheels (branded to Open Mold). That money was applied to components. Using Chinese carbon seat post and handlebar and Chinese stem and seat further increased savings. OEMs do get a break on components versus what we can generally find retail, but with some careful shopping I've found that components can be bought at very good prices compared to MSRP. August 06, 2020, 11:15:17 AM |
2 |
Re: Lightcarbon LCFS937 Build
*Sorry to hijack thread* ![]() That's it! 20lb for 4000$? Oh wow that's a very difficult undertaking. Only manageable with a decent amount of AliExpress and used parts. Especially when you are going for XX1/X01, which is even way more expensive than Shimano XTR. The most 'up-to-date' list from my build is attached. A few things to keep in mind:
August 07, 2020, 12:22:13 PM |
1 |
Re: Carbonda fm936 Thoughts
Concerning #2 - I used the ultra cheap headset that was included with my hardtail in 2014. I still use it today and it is fine. Admittedly I live/ride in a very dry environment, but I have not recognized any issues with it. One thing I did do was apply a thin coat of silicone water-proof grease to the frame where the bearings sit to make sure there was no creaking. August 24, 2020, 11:57:29 AM |
1 |
Re: Carbonda fm936 Thoughts
Did anyone of you painted the UD carbon black in shiny clear coat? I wonmder if this looks good on a XC race bike or it should be better matt black UD with a gloss clear coat looks really neat. The places on my frame where I applied the paint protection film which is glossy look neat and the top tube, which was matte, has now been polished by my legs after thousands of miles and it looks great as well. Its personal preference (matte or gloss), but I don't think you will be disappointed with gloss. It is subtle until the light hits it. August 24, 2020, 12:00:19 PM |
1 |
Re: Carbonda fm936 Thoughts
Anyone ordered a BSA model and received it recently? Just go with the press-fit setup. Remember, Loctite is your best friend, bearings aren't too expensive, and if all else fails, turn the volume up on your earbuds to tune out the creaking. ![]() (BB30 is junk, but I have made it work without creaking over the past 6 years with Loctite and annual bearing replacement/servicing...) August 25, 2020, 11:51:33 AM |
1 |