Chinertown
Chinese Carbon Road Bikes => Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components => Topic started by: matts on March 23, 2023, 02:12:44 PM
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Anyone come accross this?
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005335316035.html?spm=a2g0o.store_pc_groupList.8148356.1.6cf87dd0p2826g&pdp_npi=2%40dis%21EUR%21%E2%82%AC%20789%2C94%21%E2%82%AC%20473%2C96%21%21%21%21%21%40210318b816795981986032905e9149%2112000032651802741%21sh
You can have it any size you want provided its 52. Makes me wonder if they've only got the mould for that size and these are first few builds they've got for sale. Looks like a Scott Foil? I'm not that keen on for that reason and the size won't work for me anyway. I am a bit curious about the manufacturer and wondering who actually makes it.
Any thougths?
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After looking more closely it's not exactly the same as the new foil. Pretty close though
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Looks like they have more sizes now! Additionally tantan seems to be selling it as the x38:
http://tantancycling.com/index.php?_m=mod_product&_a=view&p_id=1089
I do really like it, but it feels too close to a clone and would make me feel bad
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Not a direct copy, but pretty close.
IMO this is a significantly better prospect than the various F / SL7 style frames, though who knows what quality will be like. TanTan stuff is *generally* better than VB, but there have also been a few posted here and one which I saw which were total garbage.
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Another BSA bottom bracket on a budget Chinese frame. What could go wrong?
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Any price on the x38?
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Looks like they have more sizes now! Additionally tantan seems to be selling it as the x38:
http://tantancycling.com/index.php?_m=mod_product&_a=view&p_id=1089
I do really like it, but it feels too close to a clone and would make me feel bad
It's going to do well if sold on VB website. The "looks" of the frame kinda pays homage to both the 2023 Scott foil rc and the Cervelo S5. Not sure of the geometry.
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Honestly I'd take this frame over the new Elves Falath EVO...
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"TT-X38 frame price it's 499usd/set . include frame+fork+seatpost +headset+spacers +handlebar"
From tantan
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I would love this design from a more reputable brand. I'd happily pay $1000. Hopefully someone else picks it up.
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I would love this design from a more reputable brand. I'd happily pay $1000. Hopefully someone else picks it up.
If enough people ask LightCarbon / Winnow they might pick up the mold. They're much better quality than VB or TT, and usually excellent customer service.
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If enough people ask LightCarbon / Winnow they might pick up the mold. They're much better quality than VB or TT, and usually excellent customer service.
In this case let's write them up: info@lightcarbon.com info@winowsports.com, i already did, maybe they will decide
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In this case let's write them up: info@lightcarbon.com info@winowsports.com, i already did, maybe they will decide
Did some lobbying like this already decided some builders to start producing a model?
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Still looking forward to a community inspired bike frame, i.e. "ChinerTown" (...to agree on a suitable name) official frame with UCI certification, on which all our needs are met 8)
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Still looking forward to a community inspired bike frame, i.e. "ChinerTown" (...to agree on a suitable name) official frame with UCI certification, on which all our needs are met 8)
That would be awesome. An enduro, a full suspension XC, a hardtail, a gravel, a climber, an aero or a TT ?
But then could we all agree on the specs ? ;D
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Still looking forward to a community inspired bike frame, i.e. "ChinerTown" (...to agree on a suitable name) official frame with UCI certification, on which all our needs are met 8)
Scott Foil -> Orginal
Irish Toil -> Replica
;D
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That would be awesome. An enduro, a full suspension XC, a hardtail, a gravel, a climber, an aero or a TT ?
But then could we all agree on the specs ? ;D
One CT frame for each discipline then lol. Have to start with a road frame though :D
The main need for most people here are geometry/sizing, tire clearance, price and just ok after sale support. Other DIY issues would be covered by default, as users post on the forum.
For geometry, if those interested would post their needed geometry/size in the forum, it is easy to use the data to create a very close custom geometry / size chart based on the collected data.
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In this case let's write them up: info@lightcarbon.com info@winowsports.com, i already did, maybe they will decide
I think winowsports OEM for Elves brand. Today im make some look at winow's website and im figured out thier FM238 and elves falath pro are the same every number.
Here for winow:
http://www.winowsports.com/product/FM238-aeroDisc-Brake-Full-Hidden-Cable-rounting-aero-frame.html
Here for elves:
https://store.elvesbike.com/products/2022-elves-falath-pro-disc-brake-carbon-road-framesets?VariantsId=10244
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Told myself I'd take break from super budget frames, but am very tempted to pull the trigger LoL
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Told myself I'd take break from super budget frames, but am very tempted to pull the trigger LoL
In a rare display of self-control, famed YouTuber vows not to look at budget frames......
....... for 1 week and proceeds to showcase a stunning build that now implements havoc on the garages of his channel followers
who will now build the same frame
;D
..... if I remember correctly, this is exactly how I fell down the VBR-218 build rabbithole & thanks to your help & others on the 218 page, it is still riding great.
Have a great build & post some pix
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Now available as the C26-2 in the Ceccotti store.
https://www.aliexpress.com/store/3997032?spm=a2g0o.detail.1000008.6.44876c65pVXGoS
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Told myself I'd take break from super budget frames, but am very tempted to pull the trigger LoL
Same as me. After chat with seller im was made a hole with my bullet.
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Another BSA bottom bracket on a budget Chinese frame. What could go wrong?
Is there usually a problem with think kind of BBs? I heard that it's even better to fix tolerance issues
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I reached out to TanTan. Matte black size 56 frame + 400/120 handlebar
Good day , thanks for your email .
TT-X38 frame can offer 499usd/set , include frame+fork+seatpost+headset+spacers+handlebar .
shipping cost 160usd by UPS . shipping time 7-10 days .
frame now in production . about 10-15 days have stock .
I'm still in the market for either a Giant Propel or Factor Ostro VAM framset...but I can't seem to kick my cheap frame habit :(
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I reached out to TanTan. Matte black size 56 frame + 400/120 handlebar
Good day , thanks for your email .
TT-X38 frame can offer 499usd/set , include frame+fork+seatpost+headset+spacers+handlebar .
shipping cost 160usd by UPS . shipping time 7-10 days .
frame now in production . about 10-15 days have stock .
I'm still in the market for either a Giant Propel or Factor Ostro VAM framset...but I can't seem to kick my cheap frame habit :(
I would be very interested to see a review for this frame
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I reached out to TanTan. Matte black size 56 frame + 400/120 handlebar
Good day , thanks for your email .
TT-X38 frame can offer 499usd/set , include frame+fork+seatpost+headset+spacers+handlebar .
shipping cost 160usd by UPS . shipping time 7-10 days .
frame now in production . about 10-15 days have stock .
I'm still in the market for either a Giant Propel or Factor Ostro VAM framset...but I can't seem to kick my cheap frame habit :(
Easy pick Ostro VAM all day you'll be able to have a light bike with the pedals included 8)
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I noticed recently, there's a difference between TanTan and aliexpress sellers:
1) Different handlebar, Aliexpress version have nicer looking and very interesting clamp design
2) Aliexpress seatpost, it doesn't have coating for better grip
3) I may be wrong, but Aliexpress version brake calliper place is not polished
And if someone interested, here is photo of the headtube
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Assuming the TanTan version build quality is ok (no certainty of that), I'd rather ride it than the Scott ... that 1" steerer does not seem like a good idea.
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I reached out to TanTan. Matte black size 56 frame + 400/120 handlebar
Good day , thanks for your email .
TT-X38 frame can offer 499usd/set , include frame+fork+seatpost+headset+spacers+handlebar .
shipping cost 160usd by UPS . shipping time 7-10 days .
frame now in production . about 10-15 days have stock .
I'm still in the market for either a Giant Propel or Factor Ostro VAM framset...but I can't seem to kick my cheap frame habit :(
That is too cheap lol.
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on tantan website, it ways 140mm rotor, does it mean 160mm cannot fit ?
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on tantan website, it ways 140mm rotor, does it mean 160mm cannot fit ?
Without adapters indeed it only fits 140mm rotors like most road frames!
I think this is just due to their bad knowledge of the English language.
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What do you think about handlebar that comes with Aliexpress version of this frame?
I'm worried that clamp system is not that good compared to classical vise like system.
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For everyone who's wondering, there are differences between Scott Foil and TanTan x38 geometry:
(https://img001.prntscr.com/file/img001/ha0pSvT3TJi0cMOT75n0fA.png)
1) Top tube is more parallel to the ground, which leads to higher seatube, bigger rear triangle and probably more stiffer and harsher frame
2) Fork is a little bit thinner (like for 15%)
3) BB area a little smaller in height
Also yes, the frame support 160mm disc with adapter.
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I wonder if the x38 also is taking advantage of the recent UCI rule changes to allow for a deeper headtube area. It's difficult to tell on TanTan's website, but when comparing to the geo photo above with the Scott Foil it appears that way.
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So I ended up ordering an x38 frameset last night.
Size 56, raw unpainted, 400/120 integrated handlebars. Total was about $700 with UPS shipping and PayPal fees. They quoted me 15-20 days for production time. Lisa from Tan Tan responded promptly to all of my emails and questions. Here are my reasons for the x38:
1. Frame design - I think the x38 looks just unique enough to standout in a world of brands trying to follow the Specialized SL7 design philosophy. This is coming from an Allez Sprint and VB-168 owner. I understand why the Tarmac SL7 is so popular, but it's nice to see an actual aero frame be released (albeit a Scott Foil clone/inspiration).
2. Geometry - The size 56 is both taller in stack and shorter in reach than my typical setup. However, it's clear this frame was inspired by a TT bike. The trend these days is for riders to optimize their bike position more forward over the bottom bracket and on the hoods rather than the drops. Basically a TT position on the hoods. So the geometry makes a lot of sense. My attempt is to replicate this position :o
3. T47 - Threaded bottom brackets on cheap frames have a high chance to be a nightmare. This is part of the reason I ordered the frame unpainted. It will make for good (or bad) video content.
Overall I'm not expecting this frame to be mind-blowing. At best it would be similar to my Dengfu R12 (also a SL7 clone) which is by far the stiffest frame I've tested for a budget Chinese frame. At worst it's a noodle like my VB-168 but I doubt it based on the design especially around the bottom bracket and thickness of the seatpost and fork.
I'll report back in a month...
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So I ended up ordering an x38 frameset last night.
Size 56, raw unpainted, 400/120 integrated handlebars. Total was about $700 with UPS shipping and PayPal fees. They quoted me 15-20 days for production time. Lisa from Tan Tan responded promptly to all of my emails and questions. Here are my reasons for the x38:
1. Frame design - I think the x38 looks just unique enough to standout in a world of brands trying to follow the Specialized SL7 design philosophy. This is coming from an Allez Sprint and VB-168 owner. I understand why the Tarmac SL7 is so popular, but it's nice to see an actual aero frame be released (albeit a Scott Foil clone/inspiration).
2. Geometry - The size 56 is both taller in stack and shorter in reach than my typical setup. However, it's clear this frame was inspired by a TT bike. The trend these days is for riders to optimize their bike position more forward over the bottom bracket and on the hoods rather than the drops. Basically a TT position on the hoods. So the geometry makes a lot of sense. My attempt is to replicate this position :o
3. T47 - Threaded bottom brackets on cheap frames have a high chance to be a nightmare. This is part of the reason I ordered the frame unpainted. It will make for good (or bad) video content.
Overall I'm not expecting this frame to be mind-blowing. At best it would be similar to my Dengfu R12 (also a SL7 clone) which is by far the stiffest frame I've tested for a budget Chinese frame. At worst it's a noodle like my VB-168 but I doubt it based on the design especially around the bottom bracket and thickness of the seatpost and fork.
I'll report back in a month...
Awesome, I am very interested in the frame too. Can't wait for the vid!
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So I ended up ordering an x38 frameset last night.
Size 56, raw unpainted, 400/120 integrated handlebars. Total was about $700 with UPS shipping and PayPal fees. They quoted me 15-20 days for production time. Lisa from Tan Tan responded promptly to all of my emails and questions. Here are my reasons for the x38:
1. Frame design - I think the x38 looks just unique enough to standout in a world of brands trying to follow the Specialized SL7 design philosophy. This is coming from an Allez Sprint and VB-168 owner. I understand why the Tarmac SL7 is so popular, but it's nice to see an actual aero frame be released (albeit a Scott Foil clone/inspiration).
2. Geometry - The size 56 is both taller in stack and shorter in reach than my typical setup. However, it's clear this frame was inspired by a TT bike. The trend these days is for riders to optimize their bike position more forward over the bottom bracket and on the hoods rather than the drops. Basically a TT position on the hoods. So the geometry makes a lot of sense. My attempt is to replicate this position :o
3. T47 - Threaded bottom brackets on cheap frames have a high chance to be a nightmare. This is part of the reason I ordered the frame unpainted. It will make for good (or bad) video content.
Overall I'm not expecting this frame to be mind-blowing. At best it would be similar to my Dengfu R12 (also a SL7 clone) which is by far the stiffest frame I've tested for a budget Chinese frame. At worst it's a noodle like my VB-168 but I doubt it based on the design especially around the bottom bracket and thickness of the seatpost and fork.
I'll report back in a month...
Yep, me too, I was ready to buy this frame, but now will wait for your review
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Hey patliean1, i want to make a paint that looks like FOIL RC ULTIMATE, so it looks like Standart UD finish, but with visible parts of the carbon fiber, but i'm not sure since it's looks a little brighter then other parts of the bike which are also have clear coat (you can clearly see on the photo of the seatpost), so any tips to reprodeuce the same finish for TanTan frameset?
(https://img001.prntscr.com/file/img001/HV62wDQeQLW7Tjs9AzQKUA.png)
(https://img001.prntscr.com/file/img001/LJxLMSBQRouTmullYM4ixg.png)
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2. Geometry - The size 56 is both taller in stack and shorter in reach than my typical setup. However, it's clear this frame was inspired by a TT bike. The trend these days is for riders to optimize their bike position more forward over the bottom bracket and on the hoods rather than the drops. Basically a TT position on the hoods. So the geometry makes a lot of sense. My attempt is to replicate this position :o
Are you going to use a separate bar and stem setup?
I’m eyeing this as well. But the stack really is unusually high if you take into account that the integrated bars will require at least the headset bearing top cap to route the brake lines and the other spacer which acts as a cable cover beneath the stem. That will add at least another 3cm of stack making it very high by the looks of it.
Also, Tan Tan is offering this with BSA, BB30 and PF30 bb configuration (under the Ceccotti bike label) on Aliexpress. So if you think you’re taking a chance with T47, presumably you don’t have to.
Really looking forward to seeing how this works for you.
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Are you going to use a separate bar and stem setup?
I’m eyeing this as well. But the stack really is unusually high if you take into account that the integrated bars will require at least the headset bearing top cap to route the brake lines and the other spacer which acts as a cable cover beneath the stem. That will add at least another 3cm of stack making it very high by the looks of it.
Also, Tan Tan is offering this with BSA, BB30 and PF30 bb configuration (under the Ceccotti bike label) on Aliexpress. So if you think you’re taking a chance with T47, presumably you don’t have to.
Really looking forward to seeing how this works for you.
Here is my consideration. The long version. ;D
Yep I will be using the included integrated handlebars which alleviates the need for the very tall FSA no69 bearing cap. 400 width 120 stem. Gonna run SRAM eTap.
-The handlebars have a reach of 84mm with a -10 degree angle. This is about 9-10mm longer than a typical compact handlebar. Also depending how each brand measures their stems specifically for integrated handlebars (usually from the top cap bolt to the center of the top bar, not to the imaginary faceplate and bolts like a standard separate stem) I reckon the stem length is closer to 125-130mm. For perspective, the integrated handlebars on my Winspace T1500 is listed as 125mm, but has an effective reach closer to 135mm-140mm. I'm not joking.
-So the entire reach in totality (frame reach 394 + stem 120 + handlebar reach 84) gives me an overall reach of 598mm. This is only 3-5mm shorter than my typical road setup, and the effective reach of the integrated cockpit will more than compensate for the 5mm delta. Basically....reach wont be an issue.
-The YouTuber Peak Torque made a compelling video a couple years ago, making the case on why slamming your stem isn't a good idea. This is specifically for riders looking to comfortably hold a TT position in the hoods, as studies have proven this is the fastest/most aero position. Elbows tucked in and 90 degrees. His stance is that the larger the difference in saddle height to handlebar height/stack, the more difficult it is to sustain that position. It can really strain the triceps/forearms. And he's absolutely correct. The only reason I slam my stems is for both control and safety in the drops during road races/fast group rides . Don't really wanna be in a TT position on the hoods in a group unless you're pulling at the front or in a solo breakaway.
-Since the x38/Scott Foil looks like a TT bike it makes since for the taller than average stack height. The top tube is practically horizontal and the seat tube is almost vertical. Clearly this frame was intended with TT-whatever in mind. I'm excited to set this frame up in such a manner to investigate if this setup truly is actually faster. And sustainable.
@abdbeg - Those photos are inspiring. Looks like just a couple of thin layers of thin matte black paint and matte clearcoat to replicate that. Gonna do the same but add clear 3D effect sparkle paint.
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Looking forward to your review.
This Seraph branded X38 looks sick
https://www.instagram.com/reel/CsvXP9NMupb/?igshid=MzRlODBiNWFlZA==
https://www.seraphbikes.com/chameleon-paint-full-hidden-cable-disc-road-bike-frame-tt-x38-t47-thread-available-474952545658cm-size-p4773685.html
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Looking forward to your review.
This Seraph branded X38 looks sick
https://www.instagram.com/reel/CsvXP9NMupb/?igshid=MzRlODBiNWFlZA==
https://www.seraphbikes.com/chameleon-paint-full-hidden-cable-disc-road-bike-frame-tt-x38-t47-thread-available-474952545658cm-size-p4773685.html
Wonder if we can order that paint without the ugly logos haha
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Wonder if we can order that paint without the ugly logos haha
Can’t see that being a problem as a custom paint job option.
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Just received UPS tracking for my frame and handlebars. Strangely fast since TanTan originally quoted me 15–20 days for production and it’s only been exactly 7 days since invoice. Maybe they had a spare.
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Just received UPS tracking for my frame and handlebars. Strangely fast since TanTan originally quoted me 15–20 days for production and it’s only been exactly 7 days since invoice. Maybe they had a spare.
Or maybe they know who you are and are aiming for a positive review :) Will be following this. Enjoying your builds/information :)
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I also ordered from AliExpress seller (SEQUEL) because it's cheaper and they sell different type of handlebar (which is the same as The One handlebar), it looks nicer in my opinion, also they included for 10$ ceramic BB.
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Heads up: This frame uses the same front derailleur design as both VeloBuild and Rinasclta/Air Wolfe.
Which is precisely why I chose eTap for my VeloBuild CX-002 build. Having used that FD design with mechanical shifting on 3 previous Chinese bikes, I refuse to ever go back. Like ever ever ever.
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Heads up: This frame uses the same front derailleur design as both VeloBuild and Rinasclta/Air Wolfe.
Which is precisely why I chose eTap for my VeloBuild CX-002 build. Having used that FD design with mechanical shifting on 3 previous Chinese bikes, I refuse to ever go back. Like ever ever ever.
What is the problem with them? I want to use 105 11 speed with this frame
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Heads up: This frame uses the same front derailleur design as both VeloBuild and Rinasclta/Air Wolfe.
Which is precisely why I chose eTap for my VeloBuild CX-002 build. Having used that FD design with mechanical shifting on 3 previous Chinese bikes, I refuse to ever go back. Like ever ever ever.
For the 105 R7000 mechanical front derailleur, what works for me with these frames is running the cable housing all the way to the FD's cable stopper (see attached image for reference). Then I use any of these clips from Amazon or AliExpress for the cable housing/frame body interface.
I use the 105 R7000 FD for all my mechanical build no matter the RD or crankset. Cheap and very easy for me to work with.
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So, seller sent some photos before shipping, looks really good.
https://imgur.com/a/EGcHT7P (https://imgur.com/a/EGcHT7P)
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For the 105 R7000 mechanical front derailleur, what works for me with these frames is running the cable housing all the way to the FD's cable stopper (see attached image for reference). Then I use any of these clips from Amazon or AliExpress for the cable housing/frame body interface.
I use the 105 R7000 FD for all my mechanical build no matter the RD or crankset. Cheap and very easy for me to work with.
Hi, do you have pics of actual builds? Very curious about your method, because i've built 4 chinese frames recently, and the FD has been far the biggest issue every time. I thought the housing had to push against the frame, then comes the cable. But it sounds you're running the housing all the way to the FD.
Please enlighten us, i think a lot of people are having issues with their FDs
Thanks!
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I thought the housing had to push against the frame, then comes the cable.
But it sounds you're running the housing all the way to the FD.
Yes, I am running the housing all the way to the R7000 FD. The cable housing is pushing against the FD stopper (as illustrated in the image documentation in my above post and my attached image here).
This is exactly the same principle as the Rear Derailleur, but the Rear Derailleur has a tension adjuster but works with similar principle; the housing is pushed against the RD cable housing stopper.
You just need to make sure to remove all the slack from the Front Derailleur cable before you tight it down.
Don't think too much about it. Just try it. It works guys!
This only works with Front Derailleur with a built in cable stopper like the Shimano 105 R7000 front derailleur.
Excuse my dirty bike in the images.
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Yes, I am running the housing all the way to the R7000 FD. The cable housing is pushing against the FD stopper (as illustrated in the image documentation in my above post and my attached image here).
This is exactly the same principle as the Rear Derailleur, but the Rear Derailleur has a tension adjuster but works with similar principle; the housing is pushed against the RD cable housing stopper.
You just need to make sure to remove all the slack from the Front Derailleur cable before you tight it down.
Don't think too much about it. Just try it. It works guys!
This only works with Front Derailleur with a built in cable stopper like the Shimano 105 R7000 front derailleur.
Excuse my dirty bike in the images.
Wow, this is awesome. It means that the hole in the frame barely matters anymore. I spent so much time tinkering with the FD on these 4 bikes. Had i known, i'd have used your trick right away, and bought 4 of these 105 R7000 FDs. Also, apparently (as per some YT video), the SPCycle SP-053D has a weird FD hole, so your technique may also help that frame.
Bottom line, thank you, and you may consider posting a dedicated thread on your FD hack, because i believe that a LOT of people on this forum are having issues with setting up their mechanical FD when they get their new chinese frame.
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Yes, I am running the housing all the way to the R7000 FD. The cable housing is pushing against the FD stopper (as illustrated in the image documentation in my above post and my attached image here).
Well done, this is the way.
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Then I use any of these clips from Amazon or AliExpress for the cable housing/frame body interface.
I use the 105 R7000 FD for all my mechanical build no matter the RD or crankset. Cheap and very easy for me to work with.
Where on Amazon can I find those housing clips?
I have a bunch of Ultegra hydro-mechanical groupsets/parts lying around. Would be cool if I could reuse them instead of buying a new SRAM etap groupo for this build.
Sidenote: The Ultegra R8000 FD also has that same FD stopper
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Where on Amazon can I find those housing clips?
Sidenote: The Ultegra R8000 FD also has that same FD stopper
When I was looking for the image of the clip to share here I saw them on Amazon stores (not sure which country) and AliExpress. I got mine on AliExpress.
You can right click on the clip image on my previous post and select "search image with Google" (...on google chrome browser). This should show you links to where to get them.
Ya, as far as the FD has a stopper it'll work.
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It looks like tantan is listing the weight as ~1100g while seraph is listing it as 1300g. Could one of you weigh it when you get it? This is definitely the top of my list right now.
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It looks like tantan is listing the weight as ~1100g while seraph is listing it as 1300g. Could one of you weigh it when you get it? This is definitely the top of my list right now.
Easiest is probably to ask them. I think (I may be confusing manufacturers, so bear with me) they sometimes offer 2 carbon layups, the light version i've seen requiring a MOQ of 10 or more.
So it could be the same frame / mould with different layups.
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It looks like tantan is listing the weight as ~1100g while seraph is listing it as 1300g. Could one of you weigh it when you get it? This is definitely the top of my list right now.
Here are some of the frames I've weighed and tested size 56. Figure add to 200g for paint.
VeloBuild 166 (Unpainted) - 1005g
Rinasclta Granite (Unpainted) - 1042g
Dengfu R12 (Unpainted) - 1112g
Winspace T1500 - 1218g
VeloBuild CX-002 (Matte Black) - 1261g
Yoeleo R12 - 1305g
2020 Allez Sprint (Rim Brake) - 1459g
2022 Allez Sprint Disc - 1521g
My unpainted x38 frame should arrive on Monday or Tuesday. It's a pure aero frame resembling a TT bike with a beefy bottom bracket area. My guess is around 1150g before paint, but weight really should not be priority.
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Here are some of the frames I've weighed and tested size 56. Figure add to 200g for paint.
VeloBuild 166 (Unpainted) - 1005g
Rinasclta Granite (Unpainted) - 1042g
Dengfu R12 (Unpainted) - 1112g
Winspace T1500 - 1218g
VeloBuild CX-002 (Matte Black) - 1261g
Yoeleo R12 - 1305g
2020 Allez Sprint (Rim Brake) - 1459g
2022 Allez Sprint Disc - 1521g
My unpainted x38 frame should arrive on Monday or Tuesday. It's a pure aero frame resembling a TT bike with a beefy bottom bracket area. My guess is around 1150g before paint, but weight really should not be priority.
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I've read somewhere or seen that you paint the bikes yourself with spray cans.
How many do you use there per wheel and does it look reasonably clean?
How does that behave with the extra weight after a paint job?
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I've read somewhere or seen that you paint the bikes yourself with spray cans.
How many do you use there per wheel and does it look reasonably clean?
How does that behave with the extra weight after a paint job?
i did just that a few weeks ago using the best spray cans i could find at the DIY store (aka, ghetto). I ordered my frame with primer only. Bought 1 can of primer because some of the primer was sanded down, then 2 colours, so 2 cans, and 1 can of clearcoat (bought 2, but didn't need 2). 2K clearcoat is what you want for a durable finish, but i couldnt easily find it, and it's rather expensive, so i went with standard car clearcoat in a can. The whole thing cost me less than 30 eur. The clearcoat that many chinese frame sellers use is also not 2K, because the paint scratches very fast. I'm happy with my result but i already scratched it when mounting on a bike rack and not using the clamp properly (my fault entirely). The hardest is to use masking tape to protect stuff. In spring time, everything dries super fast, in 2-3 days your bike is ready to be built. I watched a lot of videos beforehand.
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My frameset has arrived. Unpainted, Size 56 w/ 400x120 integrated bars. The 120mm stem is effectively more like 130-135mm because the stem is measured to the center point of the top bars, rather than to the imaginary intersection of where the metal faceplate on a separate stem would meet. This has been the case with every integrated bar I've used. My 125mm Winspace integrated bars measure more like 145mm stem.
Frame (both hangers installed): 1148g
Uncut Fork: 383g
Seatpost: 209g
Handlebars: 395g
First impressions are it looks and feels like every other unpainted frame I've tested in this price point ($500-$900). There has been some attempt to face the caliper mounts, and the T47 threaded bottom bracket looks okay upon first inspection. I have a DUB T47 BB arriving later this week to confirm no issues.
Will get it painted soon, and best believe I will be slamming the heck out of that integrated handlebar.
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Looks good patliean1, could you please also check if it fits 32c tyre?
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Looks good patliean1, could you please also check if it fits 32c tyre?
Website claims 32c tire clearance. I was only able to fit a 32 in the front, but not the rear. Not even close.
Chinese brands are already notorious for overstating tire clearance. I don't understand why TanTan would claim 32c for such an aggressive aero frame in the first place...
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So it seems that the frame have the same clearance as the OG foil - 30c
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Shame with the tire clearance, but thanks for posting pics and whatnot. Excited to see the build!
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So it seems that the frame have the same clearance as the OG foil - 30c
Real one will fit a 32-34 (depending on rim / tire combo) in sizes 56 or above ..
Very careless power sander with low grit use on that frame.
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This identical frame is being sold under the Ceccotti label on Aliexpress. There the seller states a maximum tire clearance of 28mm.
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This identical frame is being sold under the Ceccotti label on Aliexpress. There the seller states a maximum tire clearance of 28mm.
Yes, but when I asked seller directly, he claimed that 32c tyre will fit to this frame
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Quick dry run photo before I start painting and building this week. With both my saddle height and handlebar drop setup, I'd say it looks pretty aerooooo.
I'm also testing those new Magene EXAR DB508 Ultra wheels. 58mm rear 50mm front, carbon spokes, 36t DT-Swiss style hub. Weight came in at 1366g. 30mm external, 23mm internal.
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Quick dry run photo before I start painting and building this week. With both my saddle height and handlebar drop setup, I'd say it looks pretty aerooooo.
I'm also testing those new Magene EXAR DB508 Ultra wheels. 58mm rear 50mm front, carbon spokes, 36t DT-Swiss style hub. Weight came in at 1366g. 30mm external, 23mm internal.
K, I take it back, frame looks better in that angle. Maybe the seraph pic was a smaller size and non drive side doesn't help
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Quick dry run photo before I start painting and building this week. With both my saddle height and handlebar drop setup, I'd say it looks pretty aerooooo.
I'm also testing those new Magene EXAR DB508 Ultra wheels. 58mm rear 50mm front, carbon spokes, 36t DT-Swiss style hub. Weight came in at 1366g. 30mm external, 23mm internal.
Lookin good!
Too bad about the tyre clearance not being enough for 32 as stated.
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Hey patliean1
I was thinking about tire clearance, i noticed that you are using wheel with 23mm inner width, could it be that it smaller inner width will fit with 32c? Like standard 21mm
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Hey patliean1
I was thinking about tire clearance, i noticed that you are using wheel with 23mm inner width, could it be that it smaller inner width will fit with 32c? Like standard 21mm
The wheels I tested where from my Rinasclta all-road bike which have a 20mm internal and 28mm outer. Coincidentally also from Magene.
Also...my SRAM/DUB T47 bottom bracket arrived last night. Happy to report both BB cups threaded into the frame with no issues at all. I should have the bike built by early next week. 8)
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Quick Update
The bike build is on hold for a few weeks :(
-Turns out T47 requires it's own BB Tool different from other 16-notch BB tools. 52mm versus 50, 48, and 44. So I had to order one.
-I ordered the wrong "T47 for DUB" bottom bracket. Apparently there are two version of this standard: Inboard and Outboard. I ordered outboard. Inboard means the bearings sit inside the frame/cup, while outboard means they sit...outside of the frame. Outboard is (I think) is for MTB/Gravel frames because the road Sram DUB spindle I have did not clear the frame. The outboard T47 I have is too wide for the crankset so I have order the inboard version.
-I leave on holiday for two weeks so the project will have to wait till I return. Shame because the bottom bracket and crankset are the final things left to finish the build. My 2K clearcoat also arrived super late so I attempted to build the bike with plans of spray protecting it later. Do not do this.
-Speaking of the build there were a couple of quirks. The caliper mounting bolt holes on the fork (the bottom of the two) are not as deep to accommodate a standard length caliper bolt. So you will either need a shorter M6 bolt from the local hardware store or include about 1mm worth of washers in order properly tighten the caliper. This is a frame design flaw.
-In my experience, SRAM rotors are far more prone to arrive out of true than Shimano rotors. Rarely are they ever perfectly straight/aligned/true. So when you pair that to not "perfectly" faced caliper mounts..expect to troubleshoot disc rub. Thankfully the issue is mostly the on rotors not the frame.
I do have high hopes for this frame in terms of stiffness. It will probably ride more like early 90's project tuner car than a modern day sports car.
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Photo #1 - Outboard T47 bottom bracket. This why the inboard version is needed. The crank spindle doesn't clear the frame. Also shown is the proper bottom bracket tool from Park Tool
Photo #2 - Showing the bolt washers required to properly tighten the caliper.
Photo #3 - Here is a fork comparison from a different frame (Dengfu R12). As you can see, the caliper mounts protrude further out than on the TanTan x38 in order to accommodate a standard size front caliper bolt. This is why extra washers or shorter bolt is needed.
Photo #4 - Bike is almost finished. Looks pretty legit, I reckon the final weight without pedals/power meter/computer will be somewhere around 7.4kg.
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This frame has been growing on me. First I was considering getting Elves Eglath, but now, not so sure (2022 Falath Pro is another option). Problem is, I want bit more stack height than my current set up (530mm stack frame + 45mm spacers (I bought the bike as is, so I wasn't the one who came up with this)). Would 30mm spacers look utterly ridiculous on aero frame?
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I don't think I've ever had a frame where the stock caliper bolts were a perfect fit. I've always had to source slightly longer/shorter bolts elsewhere or use washers for perfect fitment. I thought this was norm and not the exception. :P
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Would 30mm spacers look utterly ridiculous on aero frame?
Ride what makes YOU happy.
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Ride what makes YOU happy.
+1
If only I hadn't just built up a new bike, I'd probably get this one as well. It's right up my alley and I live in a pan flat area.
This frame + LTWOO ERX and one of the better Chinese wheelsets has the potential to be a budget superbike. I'm super curious to see what you think of it. Also, I'm interested to see how comfy you can get on it. That seatpost looks like it's going to beat you up pretty good paired with that super steep seat tube angle. Maybe one could fit a Scott Foil seatpost with the cutout and elastomer damper in there?
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Captain's Log #7
Good news is my replacement bottom bracket arrived two days early, so I was able to properly install the crank/drivetrain and finish the build. The bad news is it's 90 degree here in Chicago, with rainfall in the area. I went for a quick test drive to make sure everything was in working order before the rain hit.
Weight without pedals/cages/mount/power meter: 7.6kg
I have a 1x aero chainring on order from Ali Express which will easily bring the weight down to 7.4kg once I remove the front derailleur and battery. Still need to add clearcoat ;D
Wheels and tires: These new Magene EXAR Ultra wheels have a 23mm internal width. My 28c GP5000s measure closer to 29-30c when mounted. I typically run 76-78 PSI, but with these wheels I'm running 73-75 PSI.
Ride feel: Thank goodness I can run lower air pressure on these wheels, because the ride is exactly how I expected - STIFF
As stiff as my Dengfu R12, far stiffer than my VeloBuild 168, and it feels "racier" than my new Yoeleo R12. With that said, the frame does not exactly deal with bad pavement gracefully. I probably would not run 25c tires on it. Honestly it ride's like a tuner car from the 90s versus a modern era sport's car.
I'm hoping I can get in a proper ride in the morning, but I leave in the afternoon.
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I think you just sold me on a VB-R-168. I wish there were a way to make a bike with a TT look (near vertical seatpost) but a compliant ride. I guess that's why Scott made that weird seat post.
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-I ordered the wrong "T47 for DUB" bottom bracket. Apparently there are two version of this standard: Inboard and Outboard. I ordered outboard. Inboard means the bearings sit inside the frame/cup, while outboard means they sit...outside of the frame. Outboard is (I think) is for MTB/Gravel frames because the road Sram DUB spindle I have did not clear the frame. The outboard T47 I have is too wide for the crankset so I have order the inboard version.
Regrettably there is more than two now.
The original T47 spec was effectively a threaded PF30 (68mm Width, 46mm ID) bottom bracket shell. You could then run cups for internal bearings if you were using one of the BB30/PF30 specific cranks which had a short spindle or cups for external bearings to run Shimano cranks or "Long Spindle" 30mm cranks. Now I think basically every 30mm (or 28mm DUB) crankset uses a "long spindle" but frame manufacturers realised that they could thread their BB386 (86mm Wide, 46mm ID) bottom brackets and use the T47 cups for internal bearings so that customers could have the threaded bottom brackets they want and manufacturers could continue their shitty manufacturing tolerances.
Then Cervelo and Factor decided to really fuck with everyone and do a half internal, half external variant of T47.
I'm one of the minority that actually likes pressfit interfaces.... It just sucks that manufacturers can't be bother to spend the extra $10 to do it correctly.
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I wish there were a way to make a bike with a TT look (near vertical seatpost) but a compliant ride. I guess that's why Scott made that weird seat post.
-Affordable
-Lightweight
-Stiff
-Compliant
You can probably have three of the aforementioned frame characteristics, but certainly not all four. And you can't cheat physics with such a near vertical TT-like seatpost. This is like expecting an F1 race car to handle well on rough urban streets.
I prefer a stiff and communicative ride because it lets me know what the tires are doing at all times. This becomes important when the pace gets spicy. This past weekend I took both my Yoeleo R12 and Winspace T1500 on back to back long rides. The Yoeleo R12 is comfortable, composed, but doesn't have a sense of urgency. This is subjective of course. The T1500 on the other hand wants to cruise in the fast lane of the Authbahn. All day.
The point is we each have to decide what's important to us in a frameset/wheel combo. And most importantly...how much are we willing to spend to achieve said combo. Godspeed my friend.
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I got my weight weenie build out of my system so an affordable stiff compliant frame sounds great to me!
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Captains Log #8
This will be my final update for a while. Took the bike on a proper ride this morning and I really enjoy it. It certainly "feels" fast and doesn't struggle to maintain speed even with the 10-15mph block headwind on the return home. At 75 PSI out on proper roads the bike maintains its composure. No rattles no creaks and no teeth chattering moments. The stiffness is totally manageable even with my pad-less fully carbon saddle.
I am definitely going 1x drivetrain when the aero chainring arrive. Once I pair that to my set of TPU tubes this should drop the bike down to around 7.3kg. Pretty killer for an all-out aero frame, and even it's current form the bike feels like a go-cart. No flex out of the saddle.
It's still too early tell, but I get the impression this will be the best performing frame I've tested under $900. And this will mostly replace my Allez Sprint as long as no random quirks or catastrophic failures pop up over the summer.
Going back to @St0mpB0x point above about bottom brackets. So this frame has an asymmetrical bottom bracket design similar to the new Cervelo Soloist. The Soloist requires a T47 inboard cup on the non-drive side and an outboard cup on the drive side. The x38 is also asymmetrical but in the opposite inboard/outboard configuration of the Soloist. I was able to use an inboard DUB T47 on both sides, but it requires a specific configuration of crank/spindle spacers on both side. This isn't exactly ideal, as you may get very slight chain rub on the FD when in the two largest cassette cogs out back with out very carefully setting up the FD. Another reason 1x makes more sense for a bike like this anyway.
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The build is coming along nicely. What size chainring/cassette do you plan to use for this build? Still trying to decide between either the Elves or this frame and I was thinking about going with 1x AXS kit myself. And most importantly, I found some (seemingly) genuine Giant Propel bottle cages on ali, that alone is surely gonna give me massive savings (just kidding)
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That sounds like a very unusual bottom bracket arrangement. What is the distances between the faces of the bottom bracket in the raw frame? It should be something between 68mm and 83mm?
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Why the fuck they couldn't just go with BB386 ...
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The build is coming along nicely. What size chainring/cassette do you plan to use for this build? Still trying to decide between either the Elves or this frame and I was thinking about going with 1x AXS kit myself. And most importantly, I found some (seemingly) genuine Giant Propel bottle cages on ali, that alone is surely gonna give me massive savings (just kidding)
Current cassette is a 10-30t. The 1x chainring on order is 52t for the supposed "chain efficiency."
That sounds like a very unusual bottom bracket arrangement. What is the distances between the faces of the bottom bracket in the raw frame? It should be something between 68mm and 83mm?
86.5
Why the f*ck they couldn't just go with BB386 ...
I am with you 100%. The asymmetrical BB is an weird choice because Tan Tan's website says T47 which technically is only half accurate.
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86.5mm is literally a threaded BB386 shell. My previous width specs were a bit wonky. SRAM specify that a T47 BB for internal bottom bracket should be 85.5mm which requires then requires a 3mm spacer on the driveside when installing the crank. In your case a 2mm spacer should work and result in the chainrings being 0.5mm closer to the frame centre line. If you are using more than a single 2mm or 3mm spacer you may have somehow ended up with a "Wide" crankset.
It very much sounds like it does not have an asymmetric bottom bracket.
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As if BB standards weren't complex enough, now they're doing asymmetric BBs.
It's amazing.
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Asymmetric BB standards have been around for over a decade.
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86.5mm is literally a threaded BB386 shell. My previous width specs were a bit wonky. SRAM specify that a T47 BB for internal bottom bracket should be 85.5mm which requires then requires a 3mm spacer on the driveside when installing the crank. In your case a 2mm spacer should work and result in the chainrings being 0.5mm closer to the frame centre line. If you are using more than a single 2mm or 3mm spacer you may have somehow ended up with a "Wide" crankset.
It very much sounds like it does not have an asymmetric bottom bracket.
You caught me LoL. Yup I'm using a DUB Wide crankset. It sort of happened by accident because I didn't realize there were two DUB versions, when the crankset was originally used on my Allez Sprint. Setting up the wide-version crankset on my Allez Sprint worked seamlessly because I (also on accident) was using a DUB BSA wide bottom bracket. No issues using a standard Sram FD.
I do have a standard width crank arms on order which I'll pair with the 1x chainring and spider meter.
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I'm planning a similar 1x build. I assumed a wide crank would be necessary to fit a big chainring (>50)?
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Ha, hopefully I was helpful. I know bottom brackets can be a confusing mess to most people but something sounded extra wonky in this case :o
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I'm planning a similar 1x build. I assumed a wide crank would be necessary to fit a big chainring (<50)?
Probably not. Typically the chainline on the direct mount single rings is wide enough to fit normal dimension chainstays. For instance, Garabaruk varies their chainring offset by size to try get a better chainline.
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@patliean does this frame work with fsa acr stems or other options? I want narrower bars than tantan offers
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@patliean does this frame work with fsa acr stems or other options? I want narrower bars than tantan offers
The frame uses a standard 1.5 bearing upper and lower. FSA/ACR should not be an issue.
I would like to mention Tan Tan sent me an email earlier today saying they seen and appreciated my recent x38 overview video. They want to "work with me" and offer up some sort of discount/affiliate code. Full disclosure I did purchase the frameset with my own money without mentioning to Tan Tan of my channel, because I just think the frame is kinda unique.
Will keep you posted.
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The frame uses a standard 1.5 bearing upper and lower. FSA/ACR should not be an issue.
I would like to mention Tan Tan sent me an email earlier today saying they seen and appreciated my recent x38 overview video. They want to "work with me" and offer up some sort of discount/affiliate code. Full disclosure I did purchase the frameset with my own money without mentioning to Tan Tan of my channel, because I just think the frame is kinda unique.
Will keep you posted.
Oh, that is great! I was about to buy the frame xD
That being said, you were lucky for the thru axle, they want me to pay 10 USD more for each of them.
Can you maybe measure and weigh them to check if there aren’t better alternatives?
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Can you help me with BB please, Ceccotti seller provided me with this bb:
(https://img001.prntscr.com/file/img001/k6zcX1HMTxGHpRSfNKKRCw.png)
Will it fit to the frame or should i buy another one, also I'm very confused about tool, which one should i buy? there's just million variation even for T47 16 tooth.
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Will it fit to the frame or should i buy another one, also I'm very confused about tool, which one should i buy? there's just million variation even for T47 16 tooth.
Ceccotti provided that BB because it's a T47 for Shimano 24 Hollowtech cranks. The frame should be T47 unless you ordered otherwise. If you're are planning to use Shimano cranks that's the one you need.
You will need a specific T47 tool different than BSA or BB386 16 notch BBs. The good news is All T47 bottom bracket tools use the same size 16-notch, with a major diameter (outside of notches) of 52-54 mm
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Final Weight: 7.2kg (7.6kg with pedals, cages, GPS mount, and power meter)
This was not intended to be a weight weenie build, but there are some pretty cheap and easy methods to drop the weight. The most expensive component are the wheels and they come in at 1366g. Both the saddle and aero chainring are AliExpress specials. Going 1x and also adding TPU inner tubes....easily saved 400+ grams.
The bike is fast in a straight line. Once you're above 23-24mph, drafting in a group, or have a tailwind you can tangibly notice how fast it is. You'd think with such a thick seatpost and bottom bracket the ride would be harsh but in fact it's quite comfortable. Cam Nichols' latest video on his Elves Falath Evo explains this phenomenon. My only main criticism is it isn't very composed over bad pavement. You won't be able to really feel any harshness but more so in how the bike handles the bad pavement.
TanTan provided me with a 5% off code if you order via their Alibaba site. Single frame orders are accepted.
https://activity.alibaba.com/promotion/coupon.html?encryptSellerId=8ZMAg%2FgGIq4Qf53DSNy5Vw%3D%3D (https://activity.alibaba.com/promotion/coupon.html?encryptSellerId=8ZMAg%2FgGIq4Qf53DSNy5Vw%3D%3D)
Full review video coming.
P.S. - The gold decals done by a 3rd grader. Myself.
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That is a good looking bike. Kind of bummed that it doesn't come into its own until ~23-24 MPH though...
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Kind of bummed that it doesn't come into its own until ~23-24 MPH though...
Generally speaking, most road bikes perform the same when you're puttering around slower than 23mph on flat roads.
It's why big brands go to unrealistic lengths to describe how their latest frames "are 45 seconds faster over a distance of 40 km compared to their predecessors" at a speed which recreational riders probably couldn't sustain solo
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My ideas for the upcoming bild:
1) 3D print special extender for the fork, i don't know why, but i like thick forks so much, so i want to extend it a little bit, like this:
(https://img001.prntscr.com/file/img001/9OzEj7jSQKKbi_bQp3Jrwg.png)
2) Print storage box (like BMC), aero bottle and saddle cover underneath:
(https://img001.prntscr.com/file/img001/kgsQsp5rRUmyTW7UbvPOgQ.jpg)
I don't know if i will be able to make it look good, but we will see.
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My ideas for the upcoming bild:
1) 3D print special extender for the fork, i don't know why, but i like thick forks so much, so i want to extend it a little bit, like this:
2) Print storage box (like BMC), aero bottle and saddle cover underneath
I don't know if i will be able to make it look good, but we will see.
Very cool ideas. Just ordered the frame. A storage box would be the perfect excuse to finally get a 3D printer.
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(https://ae01.alicdn.com/kf/S83b535853a504e18995b3d2635428881h.jpg)
Can someone identify what color code this might be?
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The more I look at this frame, the uglier it looks to me. It's as if someone asked AI to design a bike to look like a bodybuilder juiced on 'roids with boxy a** muscles.
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(https://ae01.alicdn.com/kf/S83b535853a504e18995b3d2635428881h.jpg)
Can someone identify what color code this might be?
Reminds me of a paint color on Lexus cars, i call it olive green but dont know the exact paint code.
https://images.carexpert.com.au/resize/3000/-/app/uploads/2022/06/2023-Lexus-RX47.jpg
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The more I look at this frame, the uglier it looks to me. It's as if someone asked AI to design a bike to look like a bodybuilder juiced on 'roids with boxy a** muscles.
You're not alone ;D
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Pat, I noticed you had this ring and are running AXS with it: https://pq-bike.com/collections/130bcd
even though the site says: "Standard 9/10/11/12 speed is available, sram axs cannot"
I guess it works though? I need a 46t ring...
EDIT: Woops see you have the direct mount and it doesn't have that spec, my bad!
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Pat, I noticed you had this ring and are running AXS with it: https://pq-bike.com/collections/130bcd
even though the site says: "Standard 9/10/11/12 speed is available, sram axs cannot"
I guess it works though? I need a 46t ring...
EDIT: Woops see you have the direct mount and it doesn't have that spec, my bad!
Yup! I bought mine from AliX which specifies 12 Speed:
PASS QUEST Round Chainring 107BCD for Sram Rival AXS 12S Crankset 107 Bcd MTB Road Bike Chainwheel 36 40 42 54 56 58 T
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256805496424292.html?gatewayAdapt=glo2usa (https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256805496424292.html?gatewayAdapt=glo2usa)
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I need a 130 bcd sadly… bummer
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So, here's my experience with the frame, btw i bought it from Sequel Aliexpress, so they sell it with different handlebar, they also include ceramic BB:
Positives:
1) The frame is super high quality, fork steerer is round, bearing seat stay is also perfect fit without wobble, inside is clean and not bad.
2) It's stiff, responsive as my aluminium frame, but much more comfortable (i'm living in Uzbekistan and our roads are not that good), i'm using 28c tyre btw. But some folks including my LBS master and friend who saw how i ride and tried bike by themselves, said that it wobbles a little bit and they said that it's not a bad thing, but i didn't noticed, coming from Aluminium frame and and i wanted the same stiffness.
3) Handlebar is also stiff, and really good
4) I thought that i need to replace ceramic bearings in BB, but by a spin test, it spins extremely good.
5) TanTan made a really good thing with their seatpost, that have rails like TT bikes, allowing you for wider range of movement.
Negatives:
1) Handlebar, seatpost clamp have such a tight fit, that they need to be polished or you just couldn't insert them.
2) LBS master said that he tried everything, by couldn't route cables internally, they are visible under stem, he said that holes in handlebar are small.
Sorry for my bad english and low amount of photos, i didn't have time to make them :)
*update*
Components and everything else for the bike including prices you can find here: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1NXJkVPyU0gNzbjs-0Z0nKeOFNHTmwJx_35oN1GhVfI0/edit?usp=sharing
The overall weight is 8.3kg
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Still looking forward to a community inspired bike frame, i.e. "ChinerTown" (...to agree on a suitable name) official frame with UCI certification, on which all our needs are met 8)
Have Fusion 360 and a 3d printer will travel....
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Anyone would know the length required for the bottom bracket?
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I'm not exactly sure what you are asking here. Pat's experience was that the width between faces of the bottom bracket shell was 86.5mm if that helps.
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TanTan x38 Review is live.
Youtube Search: TanTan x38 Review - Aero Isn't Everything
https://youtu.be/BO2tW2Wti0A (https://youtu.be/BO2tW2Wti0A)
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Thanks for the review! I'm curious what you meant by it not being refined. Just kinda loose? Doesn't go where you expect?
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Thanks for the review! I like how you are able to contextualize the performance of the frame given its price point.
It is fair to try to compare it to more expensive bike frames, because this is the goal: trying to improve value for the money in the end.
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Thanks for the review! I'm curious what you meant by it not being refined. Just kinda loose? Doesn't go where you expect?
Best way to describe the feeling and sensation is think 1990s Japanese tuner sports car versus their modern day stock counterpart.
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Best way to describe the feeling and sensation is think 1990s Japanese tuner sports car versus their modern day stock counterpart.
Honestly, I'm a little sad that you didn't like that frame, I don't have expensive frame to compare it with, but man this is the best road bike I've ridden in my life, stiff enough and extremely comfy.
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Best way to describe the feeling and sensation is think 1990s Japanese tuner sports car versus their modern day stock counterpart.
Funny. If I had the itch to do another bike build, your review wouldn't put me off, or get me very excited about this particular frame. Not a bad thing. It's just, like you said, nothing too distinguishing other than the polarizing looks. I feel like I could just edit in "TT-X21" for every specific reference to "TT-X38" in your road tests.
Thanks for the review!
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11:00 mark onward - One of the most popular cycling podcast shows Chris Miller/Jesse Coyle shout me out and discusses my TanTan x38 review. They offer up some really good perspective. And honestly their perspective on the x38 might actually be more "reasonable" than mine. Super flattered to see the China Forums being represented.
YouTube Title: Are INEOS Too Soft on Pidcock & We Want a UCI Masters World Champs | The NERO Show Ep. 46
https://youtu.be/imKhoFL8s5s (https://youtu.be/imKhoFL8s5s)
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Hey patliean1,. sorry for too much question, but can you help me understand, I'm really value your opinion, but it's a little bit mystery for me because of language barrier, lack of cycling experience and etc
In the first review you said that x38 is stiff as Dengfu, but in the recent you said that it's not as stiff as Dengfu, but it really shows itself at higher speeds, so I'm confused. So as I understand, do you mean that frame is stiff enough to not loose too much watts while pedaling, but it's not overall suitable for race... Or?
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Hey patliean1,. sorry for too much question, but can you help me understand, I'm really value your opinion, but it's a little bit mystery for me because of language barrier, lack of cycling experience and etc
In the first review you said that x38 is stiff as Dengfu, but in the recent you said that it's not as stiff as Dengfu, but it really shows itself at higher speeds, so I'm confused. So as I understand, do you mean that frame is stiff enough to not loose too much watts while pedaling, but it's not overall suitable for race... Or?
There are some discrepancies/conflicts in what I've said about the frame in the past month. It's one of the reasons the YouTuber "Peak Torque" suggested I be more thorough in my testing before offering up opinions. Or at least be more careful with first impression videos.
A frame does not have to be super stiff to be fast. It's important when sprinting, accelerating, climbing. Not when you are at speed. This is where the Dengfu R12 is better. Keep mind that these differences are only noticeable when pushing the bike to it's limits. Not when you are riding at 20mph/32kph. To be clear, we are talking about very small differences here. So yes the TanTan is stiff, but just not as stiff as the Dengfu.
How a frame handles bad pavement is only really important above 25mph/40kph. The TanTan does not behave as well. Less control and handling when the road is bumpy. It's more bumpy despite not being as stiff as the Dengfu.
Keep in mind that you already have the frame. At this point what I say, good or bad, doesn't really matter if you yourself are enjoying your bike. 8)
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I decided to give this frameset a try.
I ordered it painted from the Ceccotti/Sequel-store on Aliexpress, including a T47/DUB BB.
The stack is rather high for an aero frame but since this bike has a -17 stem/cockpit and the headset cap and spacer add only 15mm, I'm sure it will be low enough for me. I think I could even omit the cable cover below the stem and use only the headset cap for a very slammed look. I prefer a longer headtube with a slammed stem over a super short headtube with a tower of spacers.
I ordered a size 58 bc I'm a big boy.
This will be a full cheapskate China aero build. Not sure yet where I'll source the wheels from. I'm still evaluating options.
Groupset will be LTWOO er9 because I can reuse 11sp components I already have lying around and upgrade to 12sp down the line if I want.
I'll keep you guys updated on how it goes.
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i've ordered a size 52 black from sequel store, shipped in august and i'm waiting for delivery (hope soon)
i'll paint it by myself with a vynilic removable paint in chameleon colors ;D
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So, here's my experience with the frame, btw i bought it from Sequel Aliexpress
The overall weight is 8.3kg
Hey there!
Could you measure the actual clearance in millimeters between the chainstays where the tire sits?
I wonder if the frame will clear 31mm wide rims fine with 28c to 30c tires. Patrick mentionned that the manufacturer overstated the tire clearance with 32c.
Thx!
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Just getting back about my question above: Could any of the owners of this frame confirm how much rim and tire actually fits into the rear end of this frame?
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Hey there!
Could you measure the actual clearance in millimeters between the chainstays where the tire sits?
I wonder if the frame will clear 31mm wide rims fine with 28c to 30c tires. Patrick mentionned that the manufacturer overstated the tire clearance with 32c.
Thx!
I attached some photos of the clearance measurement.
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Thx mate. But I meant the tire clearance down at the chain stays in the rear. So down behind the bottom bracket. That’s usually where tire clearance is the tightest. Could you measure there?
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Sure, it's 44mm
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Sure, it's 44mm
Thank you. That helps a lot. I have a 31mm wide wheelset on order that I have high hopes for and I wanted to make sure it fits the frame.
My frame has not been shipped yet. LTWOO er9 is currently sold out in the official LTWOO store. I don’t really want to order anywhere else.
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Thank you. That helps a lot. I have a 31mm wide wheelset on order that I have high hopes for and I wanted to make sure it fits the frame.
My frame has not been shipped yet. LTWOO er9 is currently sold out in the official LTWOO store. I don’t really want to order anywhere else.
BTW, TanTan claimed on instagram that they tested this frame with 32c tyres .
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Yeah, on a rim that narrow (internally) my guess is that the 32c Continental comes out undersized and is probably narrower than 32mm.
That’s why I’m always asking for actual measured clearance in Millimeters. Just because a tire is labelled 32c doesn’t mean it measures 32mm as we all know. And the rim dimensions also obviously play a huge role in how wide and high the tire will be when inflated. But I’m confident that this frame will have enough clearance for my requirements.
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if you can wait a few days i'll take the measurements
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Can someone please tell me the length of the seatpost? Is a minimum insertion length printed on it or otherwise mentioned?
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Can someone please tell me the length of the seatpost? Is a minimum insertion length printed on it or otherwise mentioned?
Seatpost length is 350mm.
Minimum insertion is usually 1/3 of that.
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@Sebastian: can you also tell me the maximum tire clearance in the rear please?
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BTW, TanTan claimed on instagram that they tested this frame with 32c tyres .
Lol. Continental recommend 22-24mm and 21-25mm is the official compatibility IIRC.
They must have really had to search around for a 15.5mm ID rim to shrink the tire width enough to claim 32 compatibility.
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@Sebastian: can you also tell me the maximum tire clearance in the rear please?
Exact measurements have been posted here a few pages back. I have not received my own frame yet.
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Exact measurements have been posted here a few pages back. I have not received my own frame yet.
Thanks, I found the post: 44mm
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@Admins Can we merge these threads somehow? TanTan TT-X38=DCRF26
Makes no sense to keep both threads.
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Any more long term reviews of this frame? Can pick one up for around $500 USD with the current AliEx sales. I want a stiff bike to race crits. Wondering if this will fit that bill.
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Any more long term reviews of this frame? Can pick one up for around $500 USD with the current AliEx sales. I want a stiff bike to race crits. Wondering if this will fit that bill.
2.500 km on mine. As much as I like this bike, I can't recommend this particular manufacturer - as in Sequel Sports. As I wrote in this thread earlier. User Frank and me we both had forks which looked very unclean inside and were not round in places. The RD cable exit port on my frame was very rough inside. Rough to the point that I had to properly go about in there with a file to put the cable through. The seller's reaction was very telling in that they didn't acknowledge the problem on neither Frank's frame nor mine, saying that all their frames were like that. So if you buy there, you're definitely taking a big gamble with regards to QC.
With all that said: I like the bike. I like the way it rides. I think it's plenty stiff. I think I answered that question already in the TT-X38 thread. We were all posting there for simplicitiy's sake, since it's the same frame. And if you want this frameset, I'd say rather buy it from Tan Tan. It seems their quality is more consistent. Though there are examples of this frame from Tan Tan where the upper headset bearing was sitting too loose.