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Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: Velobuild VB-R-218
« on: May 31, 2024, 05:03:52 AM »
I use Hutchinson Challenger 700Cx28.
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Pinarello shapes are both highly desirable and recognizable.Exactly this. It's one of the few known brands out there that doesn't look like everything else. Their curved shapes - you either love or hate, there is nothing between. But even the most dogged haters must admit - they are at least unique.
Which frame would you recommend for durability and longevity?Honestly? None. They are all carbon frames. If you seek durability and longevity, you want to ride 15k a year for many years and I guess you preffer lower weight (as you look at carbon frames), go titanium.
Just to clarify: Of course it makes a difference. Tightening down the top cap does nothing if you’ve already clamped your stem to the steerer. The top cap/expander assembly is there to press the stem down whilst pulling the fork up and therefore put preload on the upper and lower headset bearing. If the stem can’t move cuz it’s clamped to the steerer, you won’t get any preload on the headset. And sure, if you then go on and tighten down the top cap more and more, it might even break. Though in almost twenty years of biking I have never managed to kill a top cap like that. You might have had particularly bad quality ones.As I said I was not into headset shenanigans but thanks to kind people like you explaining things I think I finally understand it and it makes sense now.
lol it was meant to simply show a gap between the top of the stem (handlebars in the 218 case) and the steerer tube.I will try the advice of increasing the gap by one 5mm spacer and see how it goes. Also I can't really follow your steps exactly as I would need to disconnect the front hydraulic hose to remove the fork from the headtube but I guess it's fine installing and fully tightening the plug after fork and spacers are already installed.
Yep I would sand down the crap top cap or run the carbon one. Did you try assembling per my steps?
Is there enough of a gap with your steerer tube and top cap? There needs to be a gap so everything can squeeze together. Something akin the my attached image.Your image is not very helpful as it's a star nut inside an aluminium steerer. Carbon steerers use expansion plugs.
I am using a Pinarello compression plug and had to sand the VB top cap to allow enough space for everything to compress.
I think people sometimes use plumber's tape (teflon) for loose bearings, electrical tape sounds ghettoer / maybe too flexy?I wouldn't say the bearing was swimming but without the tape it was loose enough to drop from the frame in Earth's gravitational field... The play was corrected by just one layer of that very thin electrical tape...
Btw, if your bearing really is swimming in its hole, then post a video, you may get a new frame. Some play might be acceptable, but if they botched it, they botched it.
It's safe to try the bike with a little play. Don't over do it, dont take it offroad, dont go down a mountain pass, be sensible.
You might try to add a spacer to check if the fork was not cut too long. It happened to me twice.I don't think my fork was cut too long but just to be sure, how big space should be between bottom of the cap and top of the plug? And should these two touch after fully tightening the top cap?
I use the rime tape which came with the wheels. It is 25 mm wide.Thanks but that's a rim tape. I am a little worried if 25mm rim strip would perfectly fit as well. Don't really want to waste another money. Would be nice if anyone here that uses a rim strip could confirm.
This setup has worked fine, but it was a bit heavy. A few weeks ago I hit a pothole and the computer mount broke, so I ordered the off the shelf variant for a pinarello. It's made from the brand "close the gap" and is currently very popular in germany (probably because germans like rules and there is a rule that you must have a bell on your bike)Thanks. "Close the gap" looks like a very solid and elegant solution but I am not sure if I want to pay 60 euros for a Garmin mount with bell. You can find cheap chinese copies on Aliexpress (like five times cheaper) but sadly I only found versions for either standard aero bars or normal round bars. I cannot find a chinese version for Most iTalon bars.
The frame is on closeout sale. You can only order leftover stock. The disc frames are only available in size S. I know, because I asked. I like my rim brake 218 so much that I thought about building a disc version as well.That's kind of an irony considering you already got the disc version first instead by their mistake and now you can't build a disc version because the only left are too small for you.
Velobuild respect their warranty actually.I know they do but I am still a bit afraid as people say they are stop making this frame and what if I ever need a replacement...
I probably used 4nm, but I'm not sure. I may have been lazy.Thanks for answer but... wow, that's kinda heavy torque. I was expecting the measures would allow you to go much lower. It's the maximum allowed torque for the real Dogma F. Someone here did use less (3,5 Nm) and still got the cracks...