Chinertown
Chinese Carbon MTB => 29er => Topic started by: cklein on July 04, 2016, 06:30:12 AM
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Hello,
I´m new here and hope you can help me.
I was looking for a frame with appr. 1000g and found a good dealer on aliexpress.
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/2016-carbon-mountain-bike-frame-29-China-Axle-142x12-or-135x9-29er-PF30-UD-matte-mountain/32598237061.html?spm=2114.13010208.99999999.261.G1TB6A
The first contact was no problem, but now I have the probelm wich size I should take.
At the moment I have a Cannondale F29 and the frame is small.
(http://www2.pic-upload.de/img/31105812/Unbenannt.png)
The seat tube is 390mm. It is very comfi to ride, but it looks strange.
Do you think, it is the best choise to take a frame with 400mm seat tube (580mm top tube) or with 429,5mm seat tube (598mm top tube).
I think, with 598mm top tube it would be uncomfi and hard for my back. My back is hurting, when I ride long distance.
I´m 168cm and innerleg is 79cm.
A member here in the forum is 171cm and 80cm innerleg and he is riding a 17"
(https://fstatic0.mtb-news.de/f3/20/2020/2020628-9ui639af24it-20160614_114855-large.jpg)
Maybe I should buy a 17" and than a short steem, or smaller frame and normal steem.
Hard to choose.
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My guess would be a 17", medium frame for you. Seems to me a 15" small frame be more for someone shorter than you are.
You can put in your information into some of the online bike calculators and see what they tell you.
This one: https://www.ebicycles.com/bicycle-tools/frame-sizer/mountain-bike/size-sheet?utf8=✓&u=in&r=man&h=1676.4&i=787.4&b=Calculate (https://www.ebicycles.com/bicycle-tools/frame-sizer/mountain-bike/size-sheet?utf8=✓&u=in&r=man&h=1676.4&i=787.4&b=Calculate), recommends a 17.5" frame for the measurements you posted.
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You´re right, the most calculator said 17". But in the most calculator you can only put in your innerleg and not the complete body size.
And when I take a 17" I´m afraid that the seat post is just a little bit outside...and i´m stretched on the bike
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If you are comfortable with your current bike, you should take it as a reference.
And compare it to the geometry file of the frame you want.
You will be able to see how long the seat post will be out, the stem angle and length, if you need headset spacers.
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So, I ordered a 17" frame and hope everything will be good.
I'll use this thread when I have other questions and show you pictures during building the bike.
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(http://www2.pic-upload.de/img/31121092/Ua6qPrqptvE39sc610pA6DBZUoNGRuWVJUwvfDIZ0SQ-2048x1152.jpg) (http://www.pic-upload.de/view-31121092/Ua6qPrqptvE39sc610pA6DBZUoNGRuWVJUwvfDIZ0SQ-2048x1152.jpg.html)
That´s the 29er with 43,3cm seat tube I rode on my favorite trails and it was a good ride.
So that´s the reason why I decided to buy a 17" and a short stem. Compared to the my other Cannondale it looks "better". What do you think?
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The aliexpress frame looks a great deal and people seem happy in the comments.
I look forward for your feedback.
For the size, you should be fine.
Your seat is below the bar, so the top tube is more the question, but as you say a shorter stem can compensate. Beware that if you put a Lefty the minimum stem length is 90mm.
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I´ll use this thread and show you the process of the bike build.
When I have questions, I´ll ask you and hope you can help me.
Frame: http://www.aliexpress.com/item/2016-carbon-mountain-bike-frame-29-China-Axle-142x12-or-135x9-29er-PF30-UD-matte-mountain/32598237061.html?spm=2114.13010608.0.97.dW2rvA
Fork: http://www.aliexpress.com/item/3K-glossy-Mountain-bike-fork-carbon-fork-mtb-26er-carbon-fiber-fork-bicycle-disc-brake-front/32479455156.html?spm=2114.13010608.0.93.dW2rvA
I ordered handle bar, seat post, and grips also at aliexpress.
I´m thinking about a complet m8000 group and a wheel set under 1500g.
So I hope the weight is under 10kg
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Fork: http://www.aliexpress.com/item/3K-glossy-Mountain-bike-fork-carbon-fork-mtb-26er-carbon-fiber-fork-bicycle-disc-brake-front/32479455156.html?spm=2114.13010608.0.93.dW2rvA
I ordered handle bar, seat post
I buy a lot of things from aliexpress.
But based on the recent post about a bar failure, I would stay away of forks, seatpost, stem and bars from aliexpress.
Unless it is a very good seller, with long term feedback not the usual "I just bought it, and it looks good" kind of comments.
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Fork: http://www.aliexpress.com/item/3K-glossy-Mountain-bike-fork-carbon-fork-mtb-26er-carbon-fiber-fork-bicycle-disc-brake-front/32479455156.html?spm=2114.13010608.0.93.dW2rvA
I ordered handle bar, seat post
I buy a lot of things from aliexpress.
But based on the recent post about a bar failure, I would stay away of forks, seatpost, stem and bars from aliexpress.
Unless it is a very good seller, with long term feedback not the usual "I just bought it, and it looks good" kind of comments.
You´re right, the best is, when there are a lot of "good" comments. When the parts are at my place I will take pictures and test everything extremly. Hope, there is no suprise and I will have fun ;)
I had a good conversation with the dealer, where I bought the frame and fork. So, I´ll let you all know when everything is perfect and of course if not. ;)
EDIT: and just at this moment I got a message from the dealer, that the papers are ready and the frameset will be shipped. Best information service.
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The first parts are at home and I´m waiting for the frame.
Complete new XT M8000 with just 2867g for all mechanical and hydraulical parts.
(http://www2.pic-upload.de/img/31205232/PHOTO_20160712_182946.jpg) (http://www.pic-upload.de/view-31205232/PHOTO_20160712_182946.jpg.html)
(http://www2.pic-upload.de/img/31205218/PHOTO_20160712_182936.jpg) (http://www.pic-upload.de/view-31205218/PHOTO_20160712_182936.jpg.html)
And here is my first question:
How can I get the brake tubes inside the frame? The screw from the caliper off and than inside? So in this case I have to refill the fluid. I think there is no other chance or what can I do?
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You will have to remove the hose from the brake lever assembly. If you are careful, you can do it with minimal fluid loss and you may get away without bleeding them. The bleed kit is relatively cheap at $20 and includes fluid. Here is how I did the routing on my WW 062.
http://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,728.msg8119.html#msg8119
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You should take a look at the manuals on the shimano webpage: http://si.shimano.com/#seriesList/3
Maybe they explain how you can route the brake hose through the frame. With my Magura's it was/is very easy, did not have to bleed the brake.
Do you want to have your bike light or do you have your focus on performance and durability? How about weighing the parts seperatly, so we can see where you could reduce weight?
I could imagine, that for example the brake rotors are heavy..
Is it going to be a 2x or a 1x setup?
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How can I get the brake tubes inside the frame?
On my kid's bike, we installed the XT M8000 set too.
The hose and the lever didn't come assembled totally.
It was easy to unmount and there was even a plug preventing the oil to leak.
However the plug had to be removed from the hose to pass it through the hole on the back of the frame.
Then cut the hose to the right length, turning the bar to the maximum right( as many times on a bike, measure twice, cut once ).
And then assemble the hose with the lever.
Beware to not forget to put the screw first on the hose before inserting it into the lever.
I forgot :-\ and some oil leaked when removing it, for a second try. It works ok though, but I will need to bleed it one of these days.
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Thanks for your comments. I hope it is so like you said. I´ll write here how it was.
My first priority is that it is not to expensive. Second is good mechanical parts and than lightness. So with complete XT M8000 I have a good compromise of everything.
When I have time I´ll will weight all parts separately.
I´ll ride with 2x setup. When the uphill is long and steep I need a good transmission. Last month I was in Italy and had proplems with uphills (700hm at 5km).
But befor I can ride with 2x setup I need a derailleur which fits on my frame. (I think with high clamp, what do you think?)
The frame is at the airport and now I have to pay tax and than I will get my frame.
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Ok, the first order is at home and I show you some pictures :D
(http://www2.pic-upload.de/img/31247128/PHOTO_20160719_142233.jpg) (http://www.pic-upload.de/view-31247128/PHOTO_20160719_142233.jpg.html)
(http://www2.pic-upload.de/img/31247147/PHOTO_20160719_134629.jpg) (http://www.pic-upload.de/view-31247147/PHOTO_20160719_134629.jpg.html)
(http://www2.pic-upload.de/img/31247152/PHOTO_20160719_135826.jpg) (http://www.pic-upload.de/view-31247152/PHOTO_20160719_135826.jpg.html)
(http://www2.pic-upload.de/img/31247163/PHOTO_20160719_143106.jpg) (http://www.pic-upload.de/view-31247163/PHOTO_20160719_143106.jpg.html)
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That's frame is light :o Looks good so far! What seatpost and saddle do you have there?
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It's an old seat post from china. Diameter is to small so the post doesn't fit. And the saddle is also from china and an older one. It's just in the frame for building. The new is on the way.
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Agreed, that frame is extremely light. The bars too (hopefully not too much).
Do you have multiple dropouts for the frame? I see the fork is through axle but the frame is QR.
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Yes, there are also axle dropouts for the frame.
I have the first problem. Today I was looking for the hole where the brake cable comes out.
(http://www2.pic-upload.de/img/31257164/PHOTO_20160720_095140.jpg) (http://www.pic-upload.de/view-31257164/PHOTO_20160720_095140.jpg.html)
sorry for the bad quality.
I need a bigger hole for the cable. What can I do. Can I make with a drill a bigger hole? (the hole in the middle of the picture, where the cable comes out of the frame)
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The brake hose really doesn't fit in the hole? Or is there any plug at the end of the hose? If so, I would remove this instead of drilling the hole wider. But that should work as well...
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There is no plug. Tomorrow I'll show you the problem with another picture.
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Is there just a bit of material that needs to be cleaned out at the entrance/exit of the hole? It's very rare for the brake line not to fit in the intended internal brake routing passage. Make sure you feed the line from the caliper end up to the top tube.
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(http://www2.pic-upload.de/img/31265002/PHOTO_20160721_160620.jpg) (http://www.pic-upload.de/view-31265002/PHOTO_20160721_160620.jpg.html)
(http://www2.pic-upload.de/img/31265021/PHOTO_20160721_160700.jpg) (http://www.pic-upload.de/view-31265021/PHOTO_20160721_160700.jpg.html)
So, on this pictures you can see what I mean. The hose you see is from a normal brake without fluid
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I can't see any problem from this picture. Well, maybe you feed the hose at an angle. I feed mine straight along the chainstay.
Would a smaller tube go through?
Have you tried to blow compressed air into the hole? Is there something stuck in there? Blow 8 bars into it, from the opposite side. Another option is to feed a cable, from the opposite side as well, to push anything that would be in the line.
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Sorry, my english is not the best so I have to describe in my own words.
There is no way to put the hose into the hole. The angle is not the problem, the hole is to small. In the afternoon I´ll try it again.
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It really doesn't look like there is much missing to go through. It's probably just the entrance. I would gently drill, at slow speed, as straight as possible, the first 2 cm.
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Ok, today I spend some time in the garage.
The hose from the shifters to the derailleurs are installed.
My "mechanic" helps me in with the cable for the brake.
No I have the problem that the switching eye don't work with the XT m8000 derailleur :(
I'll ask the Chinese dealer to help me. Maybe he knows which I need.
(http://www2.pic-upload.de/img/31282641/IMG-20160723-WA0012.jpg) (http://www.pic-upload.de/view-31282641/IMG-20160723-WA0012.jpg.html)
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(http://www2.pic-upload.de/img/31282659/Screenshot_2016-07-23-18-55-48.png) (http://www.pic-upload.de/view-31282659/Screenshot_2016-07-23-18-55-48.png.html)
This is screenshot from the workswell thread. This switching eye looks like there is an adaptation. I think I need this. What is it?
(http://www2.pic-upload.de/img/31283024/PHOTO_20160723_191122.jpg) (http://www.pic-upload.de/view-31283024/PHOTO_20160723_191122.jpg.html)
This is my derailleur. Looks different and I think that's the problem.
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http://www.bike-discount.de/en/buy/shimano-bracket-axle-unit-rd-m8000-528568/wg_id-453
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Ok, thanks. I ordered the bracket axle unit ???
Thanks for your help.
It's a nice place here, where other cyclists help each other :D
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What you have is a direct mount derailleur, but that would need another derailleur hanger.
Shimano therefore build an "adaptor", which is the one in the link, to mount shimano derailleurs to Sram derailleur hangers. Makes it easier for the customer to switch between the brands ;)
How did you route the hose from the front brake? Is it final?
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The route from the front break isn't final. The hose is to long and than there is another route for it.
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Hello,
I'm also interested in the frame you ordered. I would like to know of it is possible to mount a di2 groupset. Especially if it is possible to mount the junctionbox in the bottom bracket if there are holes in the bb. I don't get a good answer from the seller. Hope you can help me out when you get the frame.
Thanks
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Tomorrow morning I'll go on a MTB trip for 7 days. Than I'll send you detailed pictures ;)
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Oh, so it's completed! Very good!
Can you tell me what was the problem with the brake hose? How have you finally fixed it? I'm curious.
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The problem was, that the hole for the hose was to small. I took a drill and made it bigger, by hand.
But at the moment the hose is still to long. I'm waiting for my mechanic.
Yesterday I got the wheels, new seat post and bottle cages.
(http://up.picr.de/26338300xj.jpg)
(http://up.picr.de/26338301dy.jpg)
(http://up.picr.de/26338302ot.jpg)
(http://up.picr.de/26338303ai.jpg)
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Nice pair of wheels, are they asymmetric and made from alloy?
They weight about the same as my recent carbon. Were they expensive?
Do you know the model of the spokes?
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The wheels are heavier than with the normal 240s hubs. For the axle they are more heavy. Approximately 80g more.
The rims are asymmetrical and you have to watch how you install the tires. Just from one side possible.
Spokes are Sapim D-light. Cheaper but heavier than Sapim CX Ray.
But for my weight (70kg max) it is a wheel set for do everything I can do. (http://up.picr.de/26339697op.jpg)
I hope next week my mechanic is back from holiday and we can install the rear break. After that I can install the bottom bracket and can ride :D
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I'm almost done with the build. Scale said 8.35k. I have just to do the air out of the brake and to shorten the fork.
Maybe tomorrow I can take pictures.
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Sounds great! I'm curious :)
Think you can/should turn around the seatpostclamp (screw to front), so the dirt doesn't stick to the screw..
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Think you can/should turn around the seatpostclamp (screw to front), so the dirt doesn't stick to the screw..
+1
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I bought a new one in red and the screw is in the front ;)
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The real reason to put the screw in the front is not to protect it from dirt (that's a side bonus). The real reason is to have it opposite from the split in the seat tube, it enables a better distribution of the forces, clamps better.
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My seat tube for example has 2 splits, one front and one on the back ;)
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Put it sideways then :D
That's not common (to me at least!). Not crucial anyway, just make sure to use carbon grip paste.
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Yes, carbon paste is a good idea. I have it in the garage and will use it.
But now I'll show you some pictures.
At first: sorry for the pedals. Just for the test. Tomorrow I'll buy crank brothers. And another stem is on the way. Than I have to refill the rear brake. Front was no problem, rear is completely empty.
(http://www2.pic-upload.de/img/31367220/PHOTO_20160803_151542.jpg) (http://www.pic-upload.de/view-31367220/PHOTO_20160803_151542.jpg.html)(http://www2.pic-upload.de/img/31367223/PHOTO_20160803_151653.jpg) (http://www.pic-upload.de/view-31367223/PHOTO_20160803_151653.jpg.html)(http://www2.pic-upload.de/img/31367228/PHOTO_20160803_151710.jpg) (http://www.pic-upload.de/view-31367228/PHOTO_20160803_151710.jpg.html)(http://www2.pic-upload.de/img/31367231/PHOTO_20160803_151742.jpg) (http://www.pic-upload.de/view-31367231/PHOTO_20160803_151742.jpg.html)
The cable routing is not that good like I want. The hose from the rear derailleur is still to long and anyway it looks not professional.
When I did the first round in the mountains and it is fun to ride the bike (I hope so) I'll buy new axles. They are very heavy. And maybe I'll change all the screws.
What do you think? What do you say to the bike?
Please feel free and say everything.
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make sure to use carbon grip paste.
I never used carbon paste, I always think I should add it to my next online shopping list but then forget.
Maybe as all my parts are generally matt UD, they do not need extra friction to stay in place.
Or is it about carbon on carbon seizing after while?
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I can't tell about seizing (as I always used paste), but people who had a seatpost seize report this is a BIG BIG pain in the... (there).
Also, Chiner's specifications might not be as tight as brand bikes, so the seatpost could be a little loose. Paste helps.
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I did the first ride on the local trails with roots. Nice and fast. Maybe next weekend in the mountains with rough terrain
(http://www2.pic-upload.de/img/31411701/PHOTO_20160805_123611.jpg) (http://www.pic-upload.de/view-31411701/PHOTO_20160805_123611.jpg.html)
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Do you have two garmins? :o ;)
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Yes, two garmins. Was also the test for the new one and I verified the data ;)
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Hello, where you buy the rear axle? have photos?
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Is your rear racesport raceking tubeless? I can't get mine tubeless. 2.2 version
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The axles are part of the frame. Have no pictures.
And yes, is tubeless without problems ;)
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Is your rear racesport raceking tubeless? I can't get mine tubeless. 2.2 version
Continental's XC lightweight tires have always been tricky to set up - the old SuperSport design had paper-thin sidewalls and would leak like a beast until a couple of rides and plenty of sealant finally got it to hold pressure. As for the new RaceSport, they're far better at holding pressure but I still find some of them trickier to get to seal when they're new. I've set up around 7-8 just this year, and some hold fine on the first shot and some need repressurizing - but the key is as long as you've got a good rim with a good seal, just make sure you have enough sealant, air it up and go for a ride. All the shaking of the wheel and bouncing it on the ground helps but sometimes a tire just won't properly seal up until you do a ride on it.
So if you're still having trouble running yours tubeless, put in more sealant than you would normally, air it up, use soapy water to check and make sure there aren't any big leaks, then take it out for a ride. I think you'll find it'll hold pressure much better after that.
HTH
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Is your rear racesport raceking tubeless? I can't get mine tubeless. 2.2 version
If you get a tire that do not want to bed in(it happens more often when trying to put a 2.1"/2.25" on a 30mm rim)
Inflate it with a tube, until it somehow pops and leave it for the night.
Then remove the tube, by trying to keep one side of the tire on.
Put the valve on.
Then inflate.
It generally bed in without effort.
Then remove the core of the valve to put the sealant.
This technique works well even for Rocket Ron that are not tubeless ready.
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Tomorrow I´ll test a fork with suspension ;)
(http://www2.pic-upload.de/img/31550225/PHOTO_20160824_142210.jpg) (http://www.pic-upload.de/view-31550225/PHOTO_20160824_142210.jpg.html)
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It's so Green!
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Light vinyl stickers on the seatpost or the back of the frame, a chain guard, etc. all with the same green should equilibrate :)
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I ordered grips in green and a seat clamp ;)
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What fork is that on your build? What size? 100mm? 120mm? Has it changed the geometry of the bike compared to your carbon fork? Was the carbon fork 80mm? Sorry for all the questions, but I'm looking at different builds to try and figure which frame might be best for me and the components I already have.
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At the moment it is 80mm and approximately the same geometry.
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Thanks for the reply. Is this the seller you used?
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/PF30-Carbon-Fiber-Toray-mtb-Mountain-Bike-Frame-29er-15-17-19-21-inch-compatible-Axle142x12mm/1000001366809.html?spm=2114.01010208.3.10.caxGdD&ws_ab_test=searchweb201556_7,searchweb201602_1_10057_10056_10065_10055_10054_10059_10058_10017_107_9977_10060_10061_10052_414_10062_10053_10050_10051,searchweb201603_4&btsid=0c422e2f-f241-42ec-a539-888500824d8f
The bike looks great! The head angle looks pretty slack with an 80mm front suspension fork. Did you get a PF BB30 with it? How is it holding up?
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Yes, it is the dealer. I have a bb30 to Shimano adapter. Last weekend I rode the bike on very heavy trails and I love it ;)
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Awesome looking project.
I am really close to buying one myself.
Can you tell me what tyre size you use?
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I ordered grips in green and a seat clamp ;)
just ordered an m009, could you tell me what size seat post clamp to get?(I don't want to wait for the frame to order the clamp), thank you.
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The size to take is 31.8mm
I use ones like these in general: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/2015-New-Carbon-Fiber-14g-Mountain-Bike-Seatpost-Clamp-MTB-Road-Bike-Clamp-Bicycle-Cycling-Parts/32655847112.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.HPZpyh
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Awsome thanks again!
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I'm almost done with the build. Scale said 8.35k. I have just to do the air out of the brake and to shorten the fork.
Maybe tomorrow I can take pictures.
Nice build! I'm about to order the same frame, I'm 188 cm tall, inseam 90 cm. Size 21 I think, what size frame is your build? Seems the seat tube on the 21 size frame is only 480mm, I'm worried that the geometry is a bit wrong ?
Thanks for your time!
Cheers,
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just received what I think is an m009 looks sweet 1177 grams! size large 19"
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Sorry,
wasn´t online for a while.
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Hi new to the forum. Just picked up an FM-M009 and am looking to put a suspension fork on it. Were you guys able to use the headset that comes with the frame or did you have to buy a new one? Any information would be great. Awesome forum, keep up the good work.
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I used the headset that came with it but couldn't get the top cap to stop binding so I just tossed it.
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which headset did you end up going with? I think that I am in the same situation. I am having some issues with the upper bearing cup in the headset fitting on my tapered fork. The one that came with the frame is too small.
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which headset did you end up going with? I think that I am in the same situation. I am having some issues with the upper bearing cup in the headset fitting on my tapered fork. The one that came with the frame is too small.
Most bike I've built have these from Aliexpress (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Bicycle-Accessories-headset-1-1-8-1-1-2-for-headset-spacer-bicycle-headset-top-cap/32786785084.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.KTR3xw)
They are cheap( even cheaper the 11.11 ), and work very well for most frames here.
It is a conic interface.
When you press the headset, the conic part of the bearing goes down, and lock itself in the top cone of the frame.
If there is still a play after tightening the nut, you must put some spacers just before the top end cap.
Usually some 0.25mm shims are provided.
2 or 3 are generally enough.
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So then is there a reason why it will not fit down far enough to enter the head tube? Due to the small diameter it will not slide down.
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I used the head set which carbonazza showed in the link.
And there are 3 of these shims (very thin). Without them it doesn´t work.
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Awesome thanks for the tip. Does each shim have a specific spot or do you put them where needed depending on which fork is being used?
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Awesome thanks for the tip. Does each shim have a specific spot or do you put them where needed depending on which fork is being used?
I place the shims between the dust cover and the compression ring.
Not sure if it is the only way, but it works.
Most frame have a headset in that order( from top to bottom ):
Top Cap/Compression nut.
Stem
Spacers[ optional ]
Dust cover
Shims[ optional ] ** here **
Compression ring
Top Bearings
------------
Head tube
------------
Bottom Bearings
Crown Race
Fork
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In the picture you can see, what I meen.
Maybe my English isn´t good enough for clear understanding ;)
The three shims (spacer) I used. Without it doesn´t work.
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In the picture you can see, what I meen.
Maybe my English isn´t good enough for clear understanding ;)
The three shims (spacer) I used. Without it doesn´t work.
Understood ;)
Once 5 shims were necessary. And sometimes none.
Since they are just 0.25mm thick.
I guess we deal with the frame tolerances.
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I was able to use the head set without the spacers given, however, I did use others that I had laying around. Once the bike is complete, I will post some pictures. Thanks for the assistance. Without this forum, it would not have been possible.
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I was able to use the head set without the spacers given, however, I did use others that I had laying around. Once the bike is complete, I will post some pictures. Thanks for the assistance. Without this forum, it would not have been possible.
Don't hijack this topic with your build. I created a new topic for you: http://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,1469.0.html
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Hi!
cklein, could you please tell me what size tyres are you using, and how much clearance do you have at the back? What size chainrings are you using? Is the front derailleur a high clamp one?
Thanks. :)