Chinertown
Other Resources => Component Deals & Selection => Topic started by: Colt__Seavers on July 08, 2020, 03:05:30 AM
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Hi guys,
These hubs been to be new on AliExpress.
Looking a lot like DT Swiss copycat.
Anyone knows how to calculate spoke length for those?
Data:
Boost
28H
F: 138g
R: 231-250g depending on freehub
end caps interchangeable
freehub Micro Spline / Shimano 11s /XD
freehub detachable
54T Ratchet System like DT
Centerlock
Straightpull
ca. 100$ F+R
https://a.aliexpress.com/_d75gYDS (https://a.aliexpress.com/_d75gYDS)
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Try to contact the seller to ask them the dimensions needed for this calculator:
https://www.wheelpro.co.uk/spokecalc/ (the best in my opinion)
DT-Swiss have changed their ratchet system recently.
This is the old ratchet in a kind of new model skin.
I tried a couple of ZTTO products already, they seem to care.
Their integrated headsets are good.
They make very nice and light flat pedals.
One of their press fit BB(two cups threaded inside together), is on my 062 frame.
Looks like WMFG ones. It is stiff, and the spindle turns freely.
The bearings were not good and I changed them.
And now hubs :D !!
Thank you for the information.
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These hubs look slick! Fovno is making hubs with the star ratchet now as well. I'm wondering if the patent ran out allowing others to make the same design hub and forcing DT to make something new. Either way, I'd like to give these a try but the LBS has already ordered some 350's for me. Maybe on the next build.
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added to the ever expanding alixpress cart :D
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Thanks guys!
Yeah, seems like the "old" ratchet system, but at least the most sophisticated one with 54T instead of 18
Where can I like or thumbs up posts?
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I hate ZTTO. They made me spend more than I should. I got one of those single speed convertion kit (see pic). And ended up changing my bike's color scheme. So extra expenditures includes 2 oil-slick bottle cages, grips, top cap, and I'm still fighting the urge to get purple cranks or pedals. ;D ;D ;D
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Hahaaa, yeah those color schemes are addictive.
Do the colors match from their various products?
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I hate ZTTO. They made me spend more than I should. I got one of those single speed convertion kit (see pic). And ended up changing my bike's color scheme. So extra expenditures includes 2 oil-slick bottle cages, grips, top cap, and I'm still fighting the urge to get purple cranks or pedals. ;D ;D ;D
Get those cranks! Haha
It would look sweet.
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Hahaaa, yeah those color schemes are addictive.
Do the colors match from their various products?
Can't say, I got different brands actually. Couldn't find other purple ZTTO that I liked.
Get those cranks! Haha
It would look sweet.
Sigh... hahaha. I'll think about it again when I'm done with the 29er. Need to focus.
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Pulled the trigger on these.
Anyone knows how to calculate spoke lengths when at hand? Want to double check lengths given by the seller.
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What are your guys go-to for straight pull spokes? I just ordered these ZTTO hubs but haven't built straight pull before. I originally was going to go with Sapim Lasers, but now I'm reading horror stories about non-bladed spokes straight pull spokes, at least when needed to service them they just spin and it takes a ton of clamping force to hold the round spoke.
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What are your guys go-to for straight pull spokes? I just ordered these ZTTO hubs but haven't built straight pull before. I originally was going to go with Sapim Lasers, but now I'm reading horror stories about non-bladed spokes straight pull spokes, at least when needed to service them they just spin and it takes a ton of clamping force to hold the round spoke.
There is something to it. Using round spokes, especially Lasers can be very troublesome. Three very important things you have to comply. Use linseed oil for nippels, destress spokes and Always overturn a spoke and make a quarter turn back. Best is to use bladed spokes like I'll do for this project. You can hold them way better
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added to the ever expanding alixpress cart :D
I recently found that the AliExpress app limits your cart to 100 items. ;D
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I think I might try these hubs on my next wheelset. The price is just too low to ignore. I could even upgrade the bearings right out of the box and still be ahead vs many other brands.
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Believe it or not, hubs already arrived. Pictures tomorrow. Quality from the outside at first look is great. Ratchet seems to be dust dry. Will try to open this evening or tomorrow.
Pictures will come tomorrow.
Weight is almost on point. Rear hub 240g
Anyone knows if I can use motorex bike Grease 2000 in the freehub or should I get DT grease?
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The DT Swiss grease is lighter.
I've put the fluo yellow Motorex grease for a while.
But since I wax my chains, I have plenty of useless chain lube bottles.
I put it now into the freehub, as soon as it gets too loud.
It has less drag, and it stays cleaner.
The best I tried is the NixFrixShun(which is crap, in my experience, for chains by the way).
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Did open the rear hub. There is enough of white grease in the freehub and ratchet. Left side bearing seems to be slightly oiled. End caps, especially the right one, was so snug on the axle that I scratched it a little while pulling it off. But no problem, they are cheap and I have black sharpy. And yes I used cloth and tape covered pliers. Wasn't possible with bare hands. So be sure not to do the same. Build quality is awesome. No sharp edges. Nice black paint. But I might change the color with spray paint if I manage to sort out the color I want.
Any recommendations how to cover the spoke holes from paint?
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It looks they even copied the hard to remove end caps from DT Swiss ???
To remove them without scratching you need a bolt or a cylinder of the same diameter of the axle. You can use the axle too, but you may damage the thread.
Put the bolt a little inside the end cap hole, force the bolt to move on the side, the end cap pops out.
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I’ve found putting a liberal amount of grease on the o-ring helps with removal of the end caps. Doesn’t make it super easy if they’ve been on a long time but it does help.
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It looks they even copied the hard to remove end caps from DT Swiss ???
To remove them without scratching you need a bolt or a cylinder of the same diameter of the axle. You can use the axle too, but you may damage the thread.
Put the bolt a little inside the end cap hole, force the bolt to move on the side, the end cap pops out.
Yeah seems like they've done a great job there also.
Great tip. Thanks! The end cap I scratched sits under the cassette on the final build, so no need to worry for me. And hey, it's not a 250€ hub like DT240, it's 50€.
I’ve found putting a liberal amount of grease on the o-ring helps with removal of the end caps. Doesn’t make it super easy if they’ve been on a long time but it does help.
Thanks, will do so!
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here are the pictures.
Like I said, I ruined the right end cap on the rear hub, when I wanted it to get off the axle.
FH: 139g
RH: 240g
(https://i.ibb.co/kJKmJGq/IMG20200803142817.jpg) (https://ibb.co/m0JN0Rh)
(https://i.ibb.co/Bzz8WHs/IMG20200803142834.jpg) (https://ibb.co/FxxGZk7)
(https://i.ibb.co/RjHJF3T/IMG20200803142850.jpg) (https://ibb.co/Z2TbjBz)
(https://i.ibb.co/ZVr68p5/IMG20200803142900.jpg) (https://ibb.co/hyNRWJb)
(https://i.ibb.co/LhzYcq6/IMG20200803142950.jpg) (https://ibb.co/G3vn81k)
(https://i.ibb.co/58T3zCy/IMG20200803143001.jpg) (https://ibb.co/VSVGhbZ)
(https://i.ibb.co/vhXMQjb/IMG20200803143022.jpg) (https://ibb.co/BGnYrCm)
(https://i.ibb.co/tXY1t2d/IMG20200803143049.jpg) (https://ibb.co/gVtcpWn)
(https://i.ibb.co/DCwsVZP/IMG20200803143102.jpg) (https://ibb.co/fprB1sV)
(https://i.ibb.co/gVx8Fxw/IMG20200803143128.jpg) (https://ibb.co/NSMqnMp)
(https://i.ibb.co/gjTjXPq/IMG20200803143135.jpg) (https://ibb.co/kH8Hr9b)
(https://i.ibb.co/B28pfMs/IMG20200803143218.jpg) (https://ibb.co/pjC71FX)
(https://i.ibb.co/fQTdCBK/IMG20200803143225.jpg) (https://ibb.co/x3rqMPc)
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They are light, look nicely built and good looking.
We'll see how the bearings age.
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I'm assuming they use a standard bearing spec rather than something proprietary? Why not just get some decent ceramic ones from Ali?
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I'm assuming they use a standard bearing spec rather than something proprietary? Why not just get some decent ceramic ones from Ali?
I assume they do. How can I find out? One photo is picturing some lettering in the bearing.
I never changed bearings on a hub. Is that an easy procedure? How do I do that?
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Just hit them gently on the inner crown from the other side, to get them out.
Either with a dedicated cylindrical tool and a mallet.
Or again a bolt, an Allen key or a screwdriver.
I wouldn't change them now, just check if they develop some play in the coming months.
When you feel the wheels moves too much laterally.
Ali bearings are ok for disposable ones like BB and headset ones, they are generally crap and don't last.
For the wheels, I put SKF or NTN stainless ones.
Ceramic are a waste of money on an MTB IMO.
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Just hit them gently on the inner crown from the other side, to get them out.
Either with a dedicated cylindrical tool and a mallet.
Or again a bolt, an Allen key or a screwdriver.
I wouldn't change them now, just check if they develop some play in the coming months.
When you feel the wheels moves too much laterally.
Ali bearings are ok for disposable ones like BB and headset ones, they are generally crap and don't last.
For the wheels, I put SKF or NTN stainless ones.
Ceramic are a waste of money on an MTB IMO.
I never understood why people want ceramic bearings on a bike.
Thanks for the tips. But how do I get the axle out first to make room for the tool to reach the bearings inner ring.
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You can get the axle out with a mallet, like de dt swiss ones.
Here's a video on how to do it: https://youtu.be/1xUWPvWZvOE
Some have threaded end caps, like the Novatec or Carbon Ti.
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You can get the axle out with a mallet, like de dt swiss ones.
Here's a video on how to do it: https://youtu.be/1xUWPvWZvOE
Some have threaded end caps, like the Novatec or Carbon Ti.
It's not possible to get the end caps off like shown in the video as the silver axle has the same inner diameter like the end cap. So you would need to use a screw driver with a way smaller diameter and angle it in the axle to push against the inside of the cap undercut. You would need a tool which extends a little, like the pressfit disassemble tool. But a screw driver will leave marks on the end cap, so any other recommendations?
Looks like DT axles have a bigger inner diameter than the end caps.
Just measured:
end cap rear: 12.4mm
axle rear: 12.2mm
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Once the end caps are off, you should be able to tap on one end of the axle and have come out the other side as it will take one of the bearings with it. My guess would be that the axle has two shoulders on it that rest against the inner race of the bearing. Once the axle and one bearing is out, slide the axle back in and use it to tap out the other bearing.
I obviously don't have the hub in my hand so this is all based off of assumptions.
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Was just wondering and it's for my interest only. I won't do it before riding them. Bearings seaming fine right now.
Still I wonder why the pencil method out of that video is not working. Seems like ZTTO did something different on those hubs and made the inner diameter of the axle slightly smaller than the ones of the end caps.
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I'm assuming they use a standard bearing spec rather than something proprietary? Why not just get some decent ceramic ones from Ali?
Bearings appear to say 6802 RS, standard size.
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Hello
I'm new here, I bought these ZTTO M1 hubs
I need to assemble the complete wheel, but I'm having trouble calculating the length of the spokes.
I did not find the technical drawing with the manufacturer's measurements. To use the spokes calculator
can anybody help me? My Rim has 595 mm ERD.
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I'm very interested in these Hubs, how have they performed. I would be taking them on a large 7 day bike race and would be concerned that they ratchets would just wear out. Has anyone used the AliExpress ratchets in their DT Swiss hubs with success?
Also looking for a light 29er rim with 25mm internal if anyone have suggestions.
Cheers
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...Also looking for a light 29er rim with 25mm internal if anyone have suggestions.
I took the flyweight version of this rim: https://www.lightbicycle.com/XC925-asymmetric-rim-profile-carbon-29-inch-carbon-rims-mtb.html (https://www.lightbicycle.com/XC925-asymmetric-rim-profile-carbon-29-inch-carbon-rims-mtb.html)
With the new DT-Swiss 240 and CX-ray spokes the wheelset ends at 1215g
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What did those bad boys cost you. The rims that is, what kind of XC riding are you doing? I'm pretty aggressive but only 64kg .
Cheers
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https://btlos.com/mountain-bike/m-carbon-rims/32mm-width-mountain-bike-trail-bike-carbon-rims
Here is cheaper option. I ordered some stuff from BTLOS, but it hasn't arrived yet so I can't really comment, but many people seem to be very happy with theirs and the costumer service has been on point.
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What did those bad boys cost you. The rims that is, what kind of XC riding are you doing? I'm pretty aggressive but only 64kg
I didn't ask the pricing split per item.
In total $995 + $155 of XDB shipping.
There was a small discount I think as we ordered 3 wheelsets together.
This is for hard XC riding at 67kg.
I plan to do the Swiss Epic with them next summer, and will put them under heavy testing till there.
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Right before I hit buy now, I am curious about the center lock rotor only option for the boosted hubs. You loose all the weight savings on this hub by going to a heavier center lock rotor.
For the life of me I can't find any center lock rotors even close to the 6 screw.
Can someone point me in the right direction here. I dont want to add an adapter either.
Cheers
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That depends on the brand of rotor you are going with. If your stick with Shimano XT or XTR rotors, the CL option is lighter than the 6 bolt version. However, if you're comparing to the weight of something like the Alligator Windcutter, there is nothing in the CL option that is in that weight range.
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So I ordered these Hubs with Beam 30mm rims and DT Swiss spokes. I'll keep you guys updated
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I've got some built up with i25 SpeedSafe Ultralight rims. Final weight of 1340g without tape or valves. I've been happy with the engagement and sound over about 250 miles. I'll give an update when they have a ton of miles on them or if anything happens. Not much to comment on other than high perceived quality and machining work.
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Anyone saw a road or gravel version of these hubs?
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Did you see the M2 hubs? ZTTO M2 MTB Straightpull Hub Ultralight 28 Hole 54T Ratchet HG XD Micro spline Core fit 12 speed Thru Axle QR 28h Bicycle Hub https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000330007842.html (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000330007842.html)
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Did you see the M2 hubs?
I didn't know them, thank you for the information.
But aren't there some freehub differences between road and MTB ?
I remember vaguely once, planning to swap some and had troubles.
And the front is in general 12x100mm instead of 15mm for road.
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I didn't know them, thank you for the information.
But aren't there some freehub differences between road and MTB ?
I remember vaguely once, planning to swap some and had troubles.
And the front is in general 12x100mm instead of 15mm for road.
Front hub comes with 15x100 and 9x100
Rear hub comes with 10x135 and 12x142
Some info on freehubs here: https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/64079/11spd-shimano-road-mtb-compatibility widths can be different (1.85mm difference, you can get a spacer). Ztto state it works with SRAM PG1130 11 speed. So seems it would work with 10 speed road cassettes but not 11 speed. They do say they have an 11 speed road body available:
"if you need road bike 11speed HG or CP hub body, please contact us and mark on your order."
One user has posted a photo of what they *guessed* were the numbers for M2: https://ae01.alicdn.com/kf/U1db41a811ea74b729a057e86e4ee02bf3.png
Its close to a DT350SP, but still ~2mm less.. so hard to tell if its dimensional clone. I wish they just posted the proper measurements.
Some similar hubs, doesn't have full dimension, looks similar to ZTTO: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000960257550.html and they claim compatability with some DT parts.
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But aren't there some freehub differences between road and MTB ?
Yes, but they have a custom option for a road HG freehub ("if you need road bike 11speed HG or CP hub body, please contact us and mark on your order.")
And the front is in general 12x100mm instead of 15mm for road.
Good point! I'm hoping they have end caps for 12mm axle in the front. I'm planning to build some wheels with these next spring. I'll post here when I have more info.
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There are a few sellers on aliexpress selling "M2 rear hub" for ~$45, normal price on ZTTO official store is $66... hm probably not worth the risk but tempting.
edit: here are the official stores
We also do not have any warranty for them. We provide warranty for 3 stores from Aliepxress, ZTTO Bike store, ZTTO offical store and 100 bike store. Also Amazon US and Amazon CA. We will open our Amazon EU store in this year. I will contact you if I need someone to do the testing.
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Thank you for the research!
Asking directly to ZTTO, is probably the best way to know.
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I like this seller, when discussing 60T:
We are not going to sell 60T yet. because we tried it and it is unstable, most of 60T did not passed the durability test.These teeth are smaller, we tried to improve its stability, but still not as good as 54T, we must be honest about this.Maybe this is why the original is only 54T. anyway, We will continue to improve our products and find new technologies to achieve higher performance.
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Well...We respect everyone's preferences. If you are pursuing the ultimate and want to be different from others, you can choose 60T now, we tried our best, the stability of 60T is still not as good as 54T, but the difference is not so obvious. We will increase the detection time and choose a good quality ratchet to send. please ensure that the hub is well sealed and full of grease, good grease. Some customers reduce grease for noise, and we don't recommend it (no matter how many teeth). Grease not only reduces friction, but most importantly it allows dust and foreign matter to slide out of the contact surface.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000155469723.html
kind of tells you 54T is already on the edge for reliability.
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Got M2 with 11 speed, both the freehub and endcap were marked as "11sp road".
The only grease inside was on the ratchet area. There is a rubber seal in this area but don't see any grease there. The endcaps seem like they could have a rubber seal possibly, but, not installed. So, protection from water getting into the bearing is not the best. Otherwise looks OK.
261g with endcap.
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Has anybody used the M1 hubs long enough to offer feedback on the longevity/quality? Also, did the spoke lengths provided by Ztto seem accurate? They told me 300mm and 302mm spokes for ERD 596mm. I've built two Chinese carbon frame bikes so far and I'm considering venturing into wheel building. I'll probably use these hubs and the BTLOS M-i27AS or M-i30AS. Any feedback or tips welcome. Thanks!
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I've got a set built up on Light Bicycle rims with pillar spokes as my main wheelset.
I'm 100km of off road riding on them in the mud and rocks (servere conditions) with high loads on a 170mm travel bike that has high pedal kick back.
This can load the freehub very heavily.
If they were abnormally weak I would have killed them by now so far so good I'll report back as I get more mileage on them
I break things.
The spoke lengths from ZTTO were spot on.
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Has anyone found O-Rings to work on the end caps?
Looking at https://www.competitivecyclist.com/dt-swiss-240s-conversion-end-caps
It looks like the DT swiss 240's dont have them either.
Cheers B
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FYI:
I heard that ZTTO is to release road disc hubs with ratchet system called R2 - info from Aliexpress Ztto shop.
Maybe it is worth waiting...
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Update: i broke them after about 150km of riding
ratchet mechanism skipping
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Update: i broke them after about 150km of riding
ratchet mechanism skipping
Did you try contacting them?
They seem to care about their clients.
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Update: i broke them after about 150km of riding
ratchet mechanism skipping
Photos of the internals please. I'm guessing it cracked?
Rider weight and max rear ring might also be relevant. I suspect if you have rear 40T vs rear 20T thats going to be half the force hitting the ratchet.
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Photos of the internals please. I'm guessing it cracked?
Rider weight and max rear ring might also be relevant. I suspect if you have rear 40T vs rear 20T thats going to be half the force hitting the ratchet.
Internals are still intact no obvious signs of destruction. very little marring on the teeth and not excessive lubrication, dry parts or contamination present they look good but they slip under torque
I tried pulling the springs to get them a bit stiffer, still skips.
I took the ratchet out and put them into a dt swiss hub....it skips.in the dt swiss hub
I put the DT swiss ratchets out and put them in the ztto hub....the ztto hub works fine with the DT Swiss ratchets.
And naturally the DT swiss ratchets back in the DT swiss hub works fine again.
So it is 100% the ratchet gears.
contacted ZTTO and requested a 36T, they indicated they would send one, haven't received it yet....but it's still within the normal delivery time from Ali parts
in the mean time I purchased a 18T dt swiss set of ratchets and have carried on using the hubs. (18T cause they are cheap as dirt and readily available from people who upgraded)
I'm 180lbs a strong rider and I heard it skip a few times previously on some rocky technical climbs, eventually giving out on a rocky climb that requires some sprinting to clean the obstacles. To the point where it could not sustain enough torque to pedal out of anything.
As mentioned the bike I ride has some high suspension travel chain growth and notable pedal kick back at low speed when it goes deep into the travel. So loads could be considerable...
that stated I've run legit DT swiss hubs for much longer with no issues.
In fact this is the first hub I've ever blown the guts out of. without years and years of use and no maintenance.
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@AliExpress Test Pilot, I got interested with your 'skipping' ratchet. I have actually been testing the ZTTO 54T ratchet upgrade kit on my DT Swiss 350 hub. And I have great success. I've already done a 1,000km review of it here.
http://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,3078.0.html (http://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,3078.0.html)
I am 165lbs. I do a lot of long distance rides (70km or more) and we do have a lot of climbs. Bike is a full-rigid 29er XC.
I'm currently in the middle of a follow up review, going for 2,000km. My trail riding had been somewhat limited the past 3 months because the island I go to for that is closed due to COVID. So the follow up review is mostly paved and gravel roads. I'm also conditioning & training myself for bikepacking and had been adding weight on my bike, incrementally every week. This week, I've been riding with an extra 6kg (13.2lbs) so I'm pretty close to your weight. And my target is lugging 12kg by the end of March. As of today, I'm at 1,362km mark and so far the engagement is just wonderful. Should good weather prevail, I might hit the 2,000km by mid March. Clearly, I can't match the punishment you put on your setup but I will be on the look out for that 'skipping' you exerienced.
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I suspect that the replacement ratchets ztto sells could be different possibly better made than what is in those hubs. The hubs are pretty generic around AliExpress with many different names and logos
Also I could have just gotten a turd.
Reading Mtbr reviews the guys on the German forums didn’t have any luck with these hubs either until they switched to dt Swiss guts
I haven’t heard bad things about the ztto ratchets that are sold separately....course I don’t ride them either
I have 2 wheel sets with these hubs I plan to run the crap out of the other ones (with a set of ratchets in my pocket) and see if they break as well as beat on the ztto ratchets I’ll report back confidence or failures
I really like the idea of good affordable lightweight hubs...and want them to work
lace these with a set of DIY dyneema spokes and carbon rim from Btlos and you can get a 1200g Wheelset for like 500-600 bucks
Buying dt Swiss internals at retail kills the value equation here though
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...lace these with a set of DIY dyneema spokes and carbon rim from Btlos ...
Do you have some more details about this?
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https://www.mtbr.com/threads/make-your-own-polymer-uhmwpe-spokes.1091276/
Look here page 19-20 some guy bent spoke ends and tig welded it.
then put it together using kitesufing line and some fancy eyesplices.
I've tested soldering and it works fine. rope breaks before spoke end does >180kg.
a bit fiddly getting it to stretch out to the correct length. but about 1/2 the weight of a good spoke.
some prestretching is likely neeeded to set the eyesplices properly
inspired by berd spokes. but in my opinion a more elegant solution and a work around their patents.
I've got a few spokes made up like this in my existing wheel build to see if they cause any problems or stretch badly causing out of true scenerio
I'm using regular dyneema kitesurfing line and haven't bothered with the DM 20 cause I have tons of the regular stuff laying around and am wondering if it'll creep badly or if it's good enough.
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https://www.mtbr.com/threads/make-your-own-polymer-uhmwpe-spokes.1091276/
Wow... What a thread.
Thank you!
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Spynergy were doing mountain bike wheels with PBO spokes years ago. I have had a set for almost 9 years with zero issues, they are almost indestructible. Coincidentally, I sold them, along with the Racer-X that had them on it just last week. But we digress.
I am interested to know if these "boost" hubs are genuine boost spacing or if they are made up to boost spacing with spacers?
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I suspect that the replacement ratchets ztto sells could be different possibly better made than what is in those hubs. The hubs are pretty generic around AliExpress with many different names and logos
Ever consider matching these hubs with the ZTTO 56T rachet upgrade kit? Your high-torque & rough-trail ride review would compliment my long-distance & heavy-load review.
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Here's a detailed drawing of this hub.
(https://i.imgur.com/W4jiMEJ.png)
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inspired by berd spokes. but in my opinion a more elegant solution and a work around their patents.
I've got a few spokes made up like this in my existing wheel build to see if they cause any problems or stretch badly causing out of true scenerio
I'm using regular dyneema kitesurfing line and haven't bothered with the DM 20 cause I have tons of the regular stuff laying around and am wondering if it'll creep badly or if it's good enough.
You basically have to use DM20, its going to creep and lose tension over a period of weeks or months. Even if you happen to have SK78 or similar.
But please post a new thread if you have some results showing otherwise, or photos, etc.
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Bearings:
The Rear Hub Driver (Microspline) uses 2x - 6802-2RS bearings.
The Rear Hub uses 2x - 6902-2RS bearings.
The Front Hub uses 2x - 18307-2RS bearings (for DT Swiss Bearings: HSBXXX00N2148S)
I built a wheelset using these hubs, they look great so far but replaced the bearings proactively (Japanese Bearings, EZO, or IJK). I used DT Swiss Spoke Calculator (which was spot on for these as well when I chose DT 240S Straight Pull, 28H for the front hub) to calculate spoke lengths.
Coupled this hub with the DT Swiss EX511 Rims (29er, 28H), Sapim CX-Sprint Spokes, and DT Swiss Squorx Pro Brass Nipples (ProLock). If I were to do it again, I'd go with the SAPIM Double Square Brass nipples instead. The Squorx Pro Brass nipples I got are colored black, I'm assuming the coating DT Swiss used added some thickness to the nipples and it was a pain to get the DT Swiss Squorx Nipple Driver to mate with some of the nipples properly.
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Some feedback on this. Took it for my first ride today, tried to put some power down goingnuphill with the hubs and the star ratchet broke. Maybe I put on too much DT Swiss Grease on the mating surface when I assembled it? Maybe the steel used on the star ratchets ain't up to snuff for the amount of teeth? Anyways, once it slipped, looks like the teeth got damaged and it didn't want to engage anymore.
Had to hunt down a DT Swiss Genuine 54T Star Ratchet (pain in the ass to find in stock at our local bike shop) service kit (117$ ouch), and installed it. Climbed one of our local hills and it looks like it's holding just fine.
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Personally, if I were to build future wheel sets with these guys, I'd proactively replace the bearings, the ring nut with the DT Swiss Metal version (HXDXXX00N1131S) 7$, and replace the star ratchet springs as well (2x of HXDXXX00N1087S) about 3$ each, if you are using ZTTO's star ratchet. Lastly, see if you can snag these with the 36T ratchet instead of the 54T. Or best yet, snag the DT Swiss 24T Star Ratchet kit (HWTXXX00NSKTFS) which comes with new springs, and the special grease for 44$.
as for bearings
It uses 2x 18307-2RS bearings up front hub (DT Swiss sells replacements - HSBXXX00N2148S). DT Swiss calls these 6903-2RS but they aren't. Real 6903-2RS bearings are 17x30x7, not 18x30x7.
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@Funks Do you think the springs are what led to your star ratchets failing?
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Personally, if I were to build future wheel sets with these guys, I'd proactively replace the bearings, the ring nut with the DT Swiss Metal version (HXDXXX00N1131S) and replace the star ratchet springs as well (2x of HXDXXX00N1087S) if you are using ZTTO's star ratchet. Lastly, see if you can snag these with the 36T ratchet instead of the 54T. Or best yet, snag the DT Swiss 24T Star Ratchet kit (HWTXXX00NSKTFS) which comes with new springs, and the special grease for 44$.
as for bearings
It uses 2x 18307-2RS bearings up front hub (DT Swiss sells replacements - HSBXXX00N2148S)
Uses 2x 6902-2RS bearings on the rear hub main bearing (replaced these with EZO Japanese Bearings). The free hub I bought it with is the microspline variant which uses 2x 6802-2RS bearings). The HyperGlide variant of the free hub uses 2x 6902-2RS bearings. Will find out what the XD variant uses.
At that point its cheaper to just buy the DT hub: https://www.bike24.com/p281576.html
but thanks for posting the relevant part numbers.
18307-2RS = 6903-2RS. nm
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Be careful with 6903-2RS bearings as the standards says they are 17x30x7. The 18307 are 18x30x7 The question is, why does the rubber seals on genuine DT Swiss 18307 bearings on them say 6903? Who knows. Good luck trying to use a real 6903-2RS bearing (17mm bore) and making it fit correctly on an an axle that needs 18mm bore.
As for not buying a DT Swiss 350? Well, I got the ZTTO M1's for about 95$ shipped. With better bearings, you are looking at (+57$), the DT Swiss Metal Ring NUT (+10$). 162$ (front and rear set) ain't bad at all specially if you can get the M1 with the 36T ratchet from ZTTO. Pretty sure that's half the price of a DT Swiss 350 pair while being as light as the 240. Money saved can be used to buy actual tools to service the hubs.
The parts that will break on this hub (ratchets, bearings, hub driver) are all replaceable with DT Swiss 240, 350 components and those are available at local bike shops which is what piqued my interest. Good luck trying to find replacement pawls, parts, and etc for other type of hubs out there when something breaks on your bike and you really want to get back riding the next day.
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@Funks Do you think the springs are what led to your star ratchets failing?
Don't really know why the teeth sheared, maybe it's the springs? (those are cheap though at 3$ each). Maybe I put on too much DT Swiss Grease (didn't think so)? Maybe it's the metallurgy of the star ratchets ZTTO sells? Or maybe 54T just might not be reliable enough for someone that weigs 215 lbs.
Either way, the DT Swiss 54T ratchet that I have been holding up so far on the M1. I do carry the genuine 24T (best bang for the back for a genuine star ratchet as it comes with the special grease as well, and 2 springs) one in my bag though as I don't fully trust these 54T ratchets (regardless of them being genuine DT swiss or a clone).
I'm building two more wheel sets with these hubs (one 29er, and another 27.5), and will also re-lace my XC bike's wheel with the ZTTO DR190 which has the same guts as the M1s (for older, non boost bikes, J-Bend, ISO 6 bolt disc). They are all getting bearing replacements, spring replacements, metal ring nut replacement, and finally the 36T clone ratchets (from ZTTO or otherwise). Will post in the future how they hold up.
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Be careful with 6903-2RS bearings as the standards says they are 17x30x7. The 18307 are 18x30x7 The question is, why does the rubber seals on genuine DT Swiss 18307 bearings on them say 6903? Who knows. Good luck trying to use a real 6903-2RS bearing (17mm bore) and making it fit correctly on an an axle that needs 18mm bore.
Thanks for catching that, was just about to order the wrong one. Quote from reddit: "there is no number for 18mm so fulcrum (and DT swiss) choose the closest number possible for their custom bearings." wow.. can they not just print the metric dims instead for all bearings, so much simpler.
Agree that the compatibility aspect of the hub design is great.
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@Aliexpress Test Pilot,
I'll be honest, I had zero interest when you first post about the d.i.y. dyneema spokes. That was until last nite when I saw the review of an Atomic mtb wheel set on YouTube, which was using the Berd's spokes. Actually found Berd's is selling USD8.00 for a single spoke! And I remembered it was discussed here. Very nice topic!
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After some Successful single spoke tests I made a complete wheel
I’m still chasing the weak links I’ve switch to welding the spoke ends as the soldering is too process dependent and caused about 4 spoke ends failures that likely didn’t join well.
Also have some simple to solve issues with spokes pulling out of the hub now that the weak spoke ends are strong enough.
Still trying to source some small diameter 12 strand dm20 They aren’t really holding tension terrible well but I know there is some slippage in the hub interface
So damn light though lighter than the silvertons or bontrager XXX....bike needs a bigger chainring after throwing some light XC tires on these things.
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Has anyone got the correct measurements for spoke calculations?
I can't find the center to flange measurements on the Ali page or on the detailed drawing on the previous page.
Thanks!
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BTW they will send with road body and 36t if you ask ;D
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I've got about 700 miles on my M1 hubs and they've started skipping pretty bad. I opened them up and didn't see anything to note on the ratchets. I may try to clean them up, re-grease, and see if they still skip. But I'm more than likely going to find a 36T replacement. Just trying to decide whether to stay off-brand or go with DT branded parts.
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Did you all contacted ZTTO?
By their official shop on Ali, is a way.
They seem to care about their customers.
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Yeah I did, they respond quickly and have supplied me with spoke lengths etc. But no reaction on the request for the actual measurements.
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Hi folks,
I like buying my wheels from elite on AliExpress because they have great communication and customer service. They offer a ratchet hub that looks similar to the ztto one. I was wondering if anyone here with a better eye and more knowledge on hubs could tell me it these two hubs are the same? I have attached a link to the hub they use:
http://www.yuananbike.com/product/yar-rd14-bike-hub-center-lock-rethcet-system-freebody-36t
Do you think this hub would have the same problems as the ztto? Even with smooth road riding?
Thanks as always!
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Did you all contacted ZTTO?
By their official shop on Ali, is a way.
They seem to care about their customers.
I did contact them, just need to get around to trying to video the hub skipping to show them proof. I have had good luck with them for returns and such before.
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Hi folks,
I like buying my wheels from elite on AliExpress because they have great communication and customer service. They offer a ratchet hub that looks similar to the ztto one. I was wondering if anyone here with a better eye and more knowledge on hubs could tell me it these two hubs are the same? I have attached a link to the hub they use:
http://www.yuananbike.com/product/yar-rd14-bike-hub-center-lock-rethcet-system-freebody-36t
Do you think this hub would have the same problems as the ztto? Even with smooth road riding?
Thanks as always!
Yeah, looks like they're ZTTOs OEM.
I've ridden my M2 non-Boost version for around 100kms now, without any issues.
They're giving a 2 year warranty on the ratchet now.
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Got the M2 hubs in too! Delivered with road body and 36t ratchet :)
Now need to change the front to 12mm. The caps are on really tight, just to be sure: are they pull off type caps too?
Thanks!
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Received another M2 hub today, I'll post my measurements later. Asked for 36T/11s which they put, but did not add any grease.
There is a large amount of bearing friction on the cassette hub portion (bearings pressed together too hard?). This is not an issue for normal riding, only freewheeling you'll have extra resistance. On my first hub if you spin the wheel on the stand, the cranks will sometimes spin forward a bit. So I'm thinking this is the cause there.
Got the M2 hubs in too! Delivered with road body and 36t ratchet :)
Now need to change the front to 12mm. The caps are on really tight, just to be sure: are they pull off type caps too?
Yes they are just pull off, held on with oring friction. Mine are not tight at all.
Where did you source the 12mm caps? I was just going to use a cylindrical 15mm adapter like this: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002107520669.html (36g)
This style looks similar: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32917372157.html
But now that I look at the included 9mm QR caps, could be possible to drill those out for 12mm as well.
edit:
M2 Rear 142mm x 12mm 11s road
- Flange to flange = 53.9mm (LtoC = 36.25, RtoC = 17.65)
- PCD L = 46.5
- PCD R = 53.5
- Spoke offset = 0.8mm
M2 front 100mm x 15mm
- Flange to flange = 58.9mm (LtoC = 23, RtoC = 36)
- PCD L/R = 45.4
- Spoke offset = 0.8mm
The PCD is tough to measure. These numbers are close to the ones I linked (http://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,2961.msg23265.html#msg23265) a few pages back on ali. Only one that might be far off is spoke offset, need to double check that.
https://spokecalc.io/measuring-a-straight-pull-hub.html
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Thanks!
I ordered € 7,25 44%OFF | ZTTO MTB Road Bike Front Wheel 15mm to 9MM QR Skewers 15mm to 12mm Thru Axle Adapter 100x15 to 100x12 or 100x9 Quick Release hub
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mMrvwzL
With the hub, this comes with the caps
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I tapped the 6902 bearing out on the freehub, it was too far in causing binding. Not ideal for the bearing but oh well.
Reassembling with the thru-axle would press it tighter again, but just on the inner race. My guess is when the press it in they used the outer race with too much force.
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I did contact them, just need to get around to trying to video the hub skipping to show them proof. I have had good luck with them for returns and such before.
Had problems with my 54t skipping. ZTTO asked for video OR picture. in my case pictures of the ratchet was sufficient, "ZTTO Official store" responded within 15 minutes and told me that they would send 36t replacement parts. Replacement parts are still in the mail but I will report back once they are here...
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Received another M2 hub today, I'll post my measurements later. Asked for 36T/11s which they put, but did not add any grease.
There is a large amount of bearing friction on the cassette hub portion (bearings pressed together too hard?). This is not an issue for normal riding, only freewheeling you'll have extra resistance. On my first hub if you spin the wheel on the stand, the cranks will sometimes spin forward a bit. So I'm thinking this is the cause there.
Yes they are just pull off, held on with oring friction. Mine are not tight at all.
Where did you source the 12mm caps? I was just going to use a cylindrical 15mm adapter like this: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002107520669.html (36g)
This style looks similar: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32917372157.html
But now that I look at the included 9mm QR caps, could be possible to drill those out for 12mm as well.
edit:
M2 Rear 142mm x 12mm 11s road
- Flange to flange = 53.9mm (LtoC = 36.25, RtoC = 17.65)
- PCD L = 46.5
- PCD R = 53.5
- Spoke offset = 0.6mm? (I need to remeasure with a spoke)
M2 front 100mm x 15mm
- Flange to flange = 58.9mm (LtoC = 23, RtoC = 36)
- PCD L/R = 45.4
- Spoke offset =
The PCD is tough to measure. These numbers are close to the ones I linked (http://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,2961.msg23265.html#msg23265) a few pages back on ali. Only one that might be far off is spoke offset, need to double check that.
https://spokecalc.io/measuring-a-straight-pull-hub.html
Thanks for sharing!
I must admit it is a bit confusing for me, when I put in these numbers in any calculator for a rim with 571 erd I get something in the region of 272mm spoke length. I asked ztto for their suggestions and they gave me 290 and 292mm as suggested spoke lengths.. Miles off so it seems.
I'll go and measure (or try to) myself too and see what gives.
How is the spin on your front hub? It's pretty draggy on mine, I'll see if loosening up the preload does anything otherwise I'll have to replace the bearings too I guess.
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So I followed instructions on the website and get almost identical measurements. Offset is difficult indeed! I get to 0.75mm
7mm across at nipple bed, then 1. 5mm head, 1.25 mm depth.
3.5 - 2. 75 = 0.75mm offset.
Would these be 2cross or 3 Cross?
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So I followed instructions on the website and get almost identical measurements. Offset is difficult indeed! I get to 0.75mm
7mm across at nipple bed, then 1. 5mm head, 1.25 mm depth.
3.5 - 2. 75 = 0.75mm offset.
Would these be 2cross or 3 Cross?
0.75mm seems right, I'll update my post. 3 cross only.
571 erd according to spokecalc or DT gives 288/289 for front hub. You must have entered something like incorrect number of holes, try it again.
290/292 they suggest is close enough it would likely work with a short nipple, squorx, or with washers. But 16mm could be a problem.
For the front hub friction, there is a threaded ring on the non-disc side that sets preload. First undo the m3 screw locking it in place, then turn it clockwise to loosen it. You may have to hold onto the axle, but be careful not to crush it and use the wide section that is the strongest. Turn it back counter-clockwise until its just lightly finger tight. There should be no side to side play.
Quite a bit of friction is expected since there are 5 rubber contact seals inside. So it may already be ok.
While you have it open, can put some grease to protect the bearings, mine was barely greased on just one side only.
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0.75mm seems right, I'll update my post. 3 cross only.
571 erd according to spokecalc or DT gives 288/289 for front hub. You must have entered something like incorrect number of holes, try it again.
290/292 they suggest is close enough it would likely work with a short nipple, squorx, or with washers. But 16mm could be a problem.
For the front hub friction, there is a threaded ring on the non-disc side that sets preload. First undo the m3 screw locking it in place, then turn it clockwise to loosen it. You may have to hold onto the axle, but be careful not to crush it and use the wide section that is the strongest. Turn it back counter-clockwise until its just lightly finger tight. There should be no side to side play.
Quite a bit of friction is expected since there are 5 rubber contact seals inside. So it may already be ok.
While you have it open, can put some grease to protect the bearings, mine was barely greased on just one side only.
You're absolutely right! I must have made a mistake(at least a consistent one since I did try two calculators..)
I get to 288 and 289 for front and 289 with 288 for the rear.
Now waiting for the rim to make sure the erd is correct!
I intend to use sapim 14mm brass nipples, they have a continuous tread as apposed to dt so should be good. And should work well with the pillar 1420 I hope to order ASAP.
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DT 54T have the inner ring of the ratchet milled out.
ZTTO 36T and 54T have this as well.
Quality of the DT ring is obviously much higher, smoothed finish, nicer plating.
But now I see partly why the DT 18T ratchet kit is cheaper (~$40), they left this unmachined, so weight is slightly higher. 24g vs 19g for both ratchets.
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Most people swap out the 18Ts, but they are strong, really quiet and spin with a lot less drag.
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The second hub I got, I noticed they've changed the rear hub design after trying to swap the endcaps and it wouldn't fit. The freehub is the same though.
Not sure why it was done, ztto didn't explain. It brings the NDS bearing closer in to be below the spoke area. So more like a real DT350.
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Here's a detailed drawing of this hub.
(https://i.imgur.com/W4jiMEJ.png)
Hi! Can anyone help me to caculate correct spoke lengh for M1 hub with this rims: https://www.lightbicycle.com/AM927-asymmetric-rim-profile-carbon-29-inch-carbon-rims-mtb.html
Rim ERD is 591mm (not including nipple head dimension).
Thanks!
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So I've built a new set of gravel wheels with these hubs ;D
Im glad I redid the spoke measurements as I ended up with 288+290 in spoke length and these lengths are perfectly tensioned JUST before bottoming out. The advice to get 290+292 would have meant unfinished business. Total weight with pillar 1420 spokes, brass nipples from sapim and 26 internal/32external width gravel rim from farsports is 1479grams.
I look forward to riding them!
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Bearings:
The Rear Hub Driver (Microspline) uses 2x - 6802-2RS bearings.
The Rear Hub uses 2x - 6902-2RS bearings.
The Front Hub uses 2x - 18307-2RS bearings (for DT Swiss Bearings: HSBXXX00N2148S)
I built a wheelset using these hubs, they look great so far but replaced the bearings proactively (Japanese Bearings, EZO, or IJK). I used DT Swiss Spoke Calculator (which was spot on for these as well when I chose DT 240S Straight Pull, 28H for the front hub) to calculate spoke lengths.
Coupled this hub with the DT Swiss EX511 Rims (29er, 28H), Sapim CX-Sprint Spokes, and DT Swiss Squorx Pro Brass Nipples (ProLock). If I were to do it again, I'd go with the SAPIM Double Square Brass nipples instead. The Squorx Pro Brass nipples I got are colored black, I'm assuming the coating DT Swiss used added some thickness to the nipples and it was a pain to get the DT Swiss Squorx Nipple Driver to mate with some of the nipples properly.
I've just ordered these hubs and I'm trying to calculate spoke lengths with the Dt spoke calculator. Is it safe to assume you used DT 240s straight pull CL for the rear as well?
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0.75mm seems right, I'll update my post. 3 cross only.
571 erd according to spokecalc or DT gives 288/289 for front hub. You must have entered something like incorrect number of holes, try it again.
290/292 they suggest is close enough it would likely work with a short nipple, squorx, or with washers. But 16mm could be a problem.
For the front hub friction, there is a threaded ring on the non-disc side that sets preload. First undo the m3 screw locking it in place, then turn it clockwise to loosen it. You may have to hold onto the axle, but be careful not to crush it and use the wide section that is the strongest. Turn it back counter-clockwise until its just lightly finger tight. There should be no side to side play.
Quite a bit of friction is expected since there are 5 rubber contact seals inside. So it may already be ok.
While you have it open, can put some grease to protect the bearings, mine was barely greased on just one side only.
As an update to the friction part: everything runs smoothly after a few rides so it was just the bearing seals that needed some settling.
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Reviving this thread. I have a friend looking to run this hub with a campagnolo freehub. I can't find this hub stock with the campag freehub but dtswiss make a campagnolo freehub for the DTswiss ratchet hubs. Does anyone have any idea if a genuine dtswiss 350 campagnolo freehub body would fit This hub? See pics attached of dtswiss campag freehub.
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Sí encaja perfectamente.
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From Ztto page....
Spoke length for reference
M1 with ERD 596 Front brake side:300 other side:302 Rear brake side:302 driver side:300
M1 with ERD 562 Front brake side: 283 other side: 285 Rear brake side: 285 driver side: 283
M1 with ERD 583 Front brake side: 294 other side: 296 Rear brake side: 296 driver side: 294
M1 with ERD 589 Front brake side: 297 other side: 299 Rear brake side: 299 driver side: 297
M1 with ERD 559 Front brake side: 282 other side: 284 Rear brake side: 284 driver side: 282
M1 with ERD 602 Front brake side:303 other side:305 Rear brake side:305 driver side:303
I just made mine using Spank Flare 24 OC... and it looks sweet.
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Does anybody build a wheelset using ZTTO R2 hubs? I need spoke hole offset measurement. Thanks in advance :)
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Built a pair of carbon hoops using these, came out pretty light for being "all-mountain" rims, just over 1600g. The spoke lengths Ztto provided was pretty much spot on.
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I was getting close to pulling the trigger on a set of these M1 boost centerlock and it says plenty are in stock but they can't be shipped to the United States. I found other AlixExpress stores that will ship and I found them on Walmart but I'd prefer to get straight from Ztto. I sent them a message but time difference means they won't reply. Trying to figure out if I build myself or order full wheels from BTLOS before their free shipping ends. Has anyone in the United States been able to order directly from Ztto official store on aliexpress?
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I was getting close to pulling the trigger on a set of these M1 boost centerlock and it says plenty are in stock but they can't be shipped to the United States. I found other AlixExpress stores that will ship and I found them on Walmart but I'd prefer to get straight from Ztto. I sent them a message but time difference means they won't reply. Trying to figure out if I build myself or order full wheels from BTLOS before their free shipping ends. Has anyone in the United States been able to order directly from Ztto official store on aliexpress?
I just received a set from ZTTO Bike store. I am not sure if that is their official store or not. I guess I assume it was.
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I had the splines on the ratchet drive ring shear off yesterday. The hub started making a sound when ratcheting, kind of a louder gyrating noise every time it clicked, so basically the same sound as the ratchet normally, but every few seconds it would start to get louder, then a few seconds it would get quieter. Turned around and headed back to the car to see what was up, hoping it was just running low on grease or something. Eventually I heard a pop and the cranks could just spin. The hub-side ratchet was stuck in the hub and I couldn't get it free with the tools in the car, so headed home. Pried the ratchet out to find all the splines sheared off. I'm kind of thinking that the splines got too dirty and the ratchet started sticking down in the hub. If the hub-side ratchet can't spring outwards, then the freehub-side ratchet would get pushed further inwards towards the hub, and maybe the weird sound I was hearing was the freehub-side ratchet making contact with the ratchet drive ring. I'm thinking that eventually it got pushed so far inwards that maybe the splines from the freehub ratchet started to mesh with the ratchet drive ring? Making it a fixie for an instant until it broke.
Contacted ZTTO and they are replacing the ratchet drive ring, but I have no idea how I'll get the old one out with stripped splines...
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Just an update, ZTTO offered a warranty replacement on the ratchet ring, but said they couldn't make a shipping label unless I buy something else... wasn't going to use it anyway and was going to keep it as a spare, so I just won't bother. I was surprised I was able to get the old ratchet ring out with how little spline was left, took a bit of heat and a lot of torque. I purchased the OE DT ring (HXDXXX00N1131S) and got it back together, all is good! Comparing the ZTTO ring with the DT ring, the splines on the ZTTO ring are smaller, so a tighter fit with the ratchets. I've got a few ratchet kits laying around, and the Fonvo 54t ratchet actually gets stuck in the ZTTO ring, but slides freely in the new DT ring.
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Stripped my ratchets today in a similar way. Going to see if I can find an 18T set somewhere to replace it with.
Won't be buying "cheap" hubs anymore.
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Hubs, rear hubs in particular (especially on fat bikes!), are one area I’ve consistently regretted not spending more.
Almost every attempt to save money in this area has resulted in me buying twice (or more) and actually cost me more in the long run.
With a lot of ZTTO stuff it will be reliable long term if you replace the key component they cheaped out on: the bearings in their BBs, the ratchet rings in their hubs. But once you do that, most of the price difference is gone.
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Hubs, rear hubs in particular (especially on fat bikes!), are one area I’ve consistently regretted not spending more.
Almost every attempt to save money in this area has resulted in me buying twice (or more) and actually cost me more in the long run.
With a lot of ZTTO stuff it will be reliable long term if you replace the key component they cheaped out on: the bearings in their BBs, the ratchet rings in their hubs. But once you do that, most of the price difference is gone.
I hope that will be the case, the ratchets are not that expensive luckily. (and 18t easily found due to many upgraders). Sucks that my shin is now Al mangled due to the sudden slip and I have to gain some trust in the new setup as soon as I've rebuilt it.
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Inspection, clean, and lube of Ztto M1 rear hub with 36t star ratchets. I installed this hub/carbon rim on a newly built 1Kw ebike. In hindsight I should have checked the degree of lubrication on the ratchets before beginning testing. At around 1,100km I got the impression that the ratchets were a little slow to release sometimes, so it was inspection time. Through out the testing the ratchets never slipped, only complaint is that they were a little loud. For good measure I ordered a fresh set of ratchets, a splined ring, and tool. Found all parts to be kind of dry, cleaned, re-lubed, and back on the bike. Below are some pics of the star ratchet with some visible wear at 1,100km, other one looked new.
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I've had my M1 hubs for 2 years, main bike during the wet winters we get in the UK. Built up with BTLOS carbon rims, sapim d-light spokes for a build of 1600g. I asked for the 36t from ztto as part of the original order. The wheels have been brilliant, they still spin with hardly any drag and with no side to side play... My maintenance on the other hand hasn't been great.
Took them to bits for the first time today, all bearings are still fine except the outer freehub bearing. The ratchet has been fine but it is showing some signs of wear. The splines in the ring nut in the hub have worn through so only 50% thickness remains.
I'll order the steel dt swiss ring nut and I may buy the 24t ratchet, springs and grease kit, while I have the ring nut out, I'll change all the bearings and make the hub like new.
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I've had my M1 hubs for 2 years, main bike during the wet winters we get in the UK.
I just cleaned and lubed my oldest M1 hub with 36t stars, probably the 4th time in a year, and around 7K km on the hub. No ridges on original splines/stars/springs, nor other visible serious wear, the inner ring splines have a chrome like gloss. The inner and outer stars are quietest when matched to their respective spline ring. Lubed only with a light blend of SuperLube/ TFE chain lube, see pic. I ain't paying for that liquid gold stuff they're peddling.
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I just received a set of M1 and R2 hubs and built them up on btlos carbon rims.
I've discovered though that the tolerances of the new hubs are different to the older ones I have used. They no longer fit DT Swiss ratchets, nor do they fit the older ZTTO ratchets. I contacted ZTTO and they send me a new freehub and it has the same problem. The new ZTTO 54t ratchets have a different spring design with a red cap.
Has anyone else had this experience?
This is a bit annoying as now I need to spare different ratchets for these hubs. Might look at goldix or arc hubs next.
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I was getting close to pulling the trigger on a set of these M1 boost centerlock and it says plenty are in stock but they can't be shipped to the United States.
My 2 pair were ordered with an American credit card on AliExpress, but shipment was to my overwintering home in Thailand, duty free delivery. Approaching 10K km on my oldest pair with original 36t stars and other internals, daily 40km rides include advanced climbs with 1Kw mid drive ebike.