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Messages - TidyDinosaur

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1
Thanks, I will definitely double-check.
My rides felt normal otherwise but the brake power has quite some leverage through the fork, right?
Did you "feel" anything while riding?
I did not feel anything while riding, but the fork began to "stutter" when braking. I also thought it was the brakes, but it appeared to be the play in the headset. It was a very small amount of play.

2
Nice wheels and all, but can I ask about the truing stand? Is that an AliExpress model or rather a Western product?

Good luck with your degree!
It's Ali, I have the same. Works great after a little bit of adjusting. You can't rely on it for your wheel to be perfectly centred though.

3
It has serials - I don't think it's a problem of identifying their own product but rather they've come the decision that the purchasing retailer/channel is who would handle warranty issues.  For my issue with the adjustment screw, the AliExpress seller was happy to deal with it, I just had to get it back to them in China.  I ended up just fixing myself.

Definately will limit acceptance outside of Asia until they can improve servicing globally. Unfortunate.    It will be a small niche of people like the ones in here willing to accept the servicing hassles that will be buying.
Yeah, especially with electronic... When you buy a Chinese mechanical group, a lot of the times you can replace the parts with Shimano or Sram when something is not right... If your Chinese electronic group fails you could be out of a bike for 6 weeks...

4
What they are stating is fair. As far as in Europe (and maybe in other countries as well), it's the store who needs to provide warranty cases with the consumer and not the company of the product. So if you claim warranty, you need to contact your seller rather than directly Wheeltop.
But since they state they do not sell to third party seller there is the real chance there will be no warranty. Certainly not by wheeltop, not even through the sellers.

5
Are you sure it is not a loose headset? I had this with my gravel bike.

6
I've mostly finished my build and opted for mechanical shifting. In hindsight, I wish I'd invested a bit more in wireless, as the process turned out to be quite challenging. The handlebar holes were particularly difficult, and using a soft cable cover (neoprene) only created more issues. Now, I'm dealing with a seized seatpost. It seems there's excess carbon inside the seattube, forming a lip that initially prevented the seatpost from fitting properly. I managed to remove the lip by turning the bike upside down, but now the seatpost is stuck. I've tried WD-40 without success and gently tapped it with a mallet, but I'm concerned about damaging the frame or seatpost.

Any ideas?

I might be wrong, but I think the lip is there to prevent the seatpost from being inserted too far. There is a maximum insertion and you have to cut your seatpost if it is too long. Forcing the seatpost past this ridge probably has gotten it jammed.

Maybe you can install an old saddle and tap it from the bottom?

8


Ah, that is different from the standard spacer-set supplied with the frame

9
Just a regular round spacer/washer/ring, whatever you want to call it (see picture).
As I said, i think that 0.5 would be enough, and searching for thinner spacers I found this from FSA https://www.tradeinn.com/bikeinn/en/fsa-spacers-kit/138244357/p
look at the description:
 "Integrated headsets sometimes require micro-spacers to adjust the depth of the machined headtube in order to ensure correct fit. Micro-spacers should be used between the top cover and compression ring to make sure the top cover does not contact the top of the headtube."
That's exactly what I did, so, from this description, I assume that this is not a problem of this particular Hygge's frames, it's a common issue. Also I just realized that is enough to install the ring as it comes, not necessary to cut it into a C shape. I'll try some day which thickness is the perfect one, for now I'll stay with the 1mm as it works.

What did you do with the round tab in the top cover that fits into the hole on the compression ring? This is where the spacer would be, is it not?

10
Possible solutions:
- Find another suitable compression ring and replace it:
(Hygge told me that they could send me the much higher plastic ring, but that this would leave a huge gap (3mm?) between the frame and the headset cap).
I have found another cone and will explain how to install it in another post.

I have received the new headset spacer assembly with the plastic ring. The difference is not 3 mm but about 1mm when I just put them together on my desk. So when you install it and with some compression it will probably be less (since I expect the plastic ring to compress more). I would think that this is better than the steel ring because the cap that covers the top bearing rubs the frame with this one.
I am not planning to install this ring as long as my current solution stays tight...

11
Purchased the ZTTO DR190 54t ratchet hubs.  The spoke holes are double drilled shaped like a key hole.  Anyone know the purpose of that?  ZTTO says it's for better durability but I'm scratching my chin.
It's for flat spokes like the sapim cx ray

12
The 411/412 are decent hubs. I use them on my gravel and on my roadbike. Have done 1000's of kms with them. They need some maintenance and replacement of the bearings from time to time (I use cheap Ali bearings) but I've not have anything fail on me.
Replacement parts and freehubs are cheap and easy to find.

13
Novatec 791/792 and 411/412 can do what you want I think. Just check the novatec webshop for the conversion parts.

14
In my opinion the seatpost does not sufficiently filter the roughness of the road but the tires compensate (5.5 bar with TPU inner tube at the rear and latex at the front) but I don't like it either when it's too "bulbous".
You could try to lower the pressure... 5,5bar (80 PSI) is pretty high for today's standard. I am 65kg and inflate my 28mm tires to 50 psi in the back and 45 in the front. I ride tubeless though...

15
Can anyone recommend some high quality, light, with solid side entry carbon bottle cages?  Need some for MTB.

I use these. Not carbon, but light and cheap. They work well with 750ml bottles, but not so great for 1l bottles.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002203998370.html

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