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Messages - Draz

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1
Component Deals & Selection / Re: How I painted my frame
« on: November 01, 2022, 05:21:17 PM »
Looks very nice, obviously quite different than Jannmayer's paint job.
Whereabouts in the world are you and how did you go about it? You sanded, brought a masked frame to them, they did the primer, they painted, they applied the clear coat, and you got your finished frame back?
I quite like the idea of liaising with a car body shop, there's a million of those around me.

Yes, obviously my paintjob is just a getaway. Jannmayer made a masterpiece and really spend time on it, unfortunately i'm a lazy mf.
I did exactly as you described.
I deal with them for 3 stage painting. Acrylic paint, cc, primer are selected.
I used some sort of abrasive sponge and masked it and primed in 1st day.
Second day, i sanded and masked again if needed. Eyeballed a custom paint. (british green race with big metallic flakes and pearlescent paint to blend everything nicely)
Layer of paints are applied 10-20mins apart. Then before it gets dry, CC layers are applied same way.
I waited until everything chemically dries(2-3 weeks).
Then applied automative grade clear protection film myself.
If you supply parts to hang the frame while drying, it is better.

Add one day for each different paint and 2 more day to sand the cc to level it and for the last layer of cc.
I live in Turkey btw.

2
Component Deals & Selection / Re: How I painted my frame
« on: November 01, 2022, 02:59:28 PM »
I only kept partial records of my painting costs, but I estimate it was about $170 USD. I don't know what Carbonda would have charged for a scheme like this buit it probably would have been similar or slightly more.


The paint was the most expensive part:
Primer (2 cans): $21.50
Paint (6 cans): $55.08
Clear (2 cans): $41.99


I didn't keep a log of the tape or sandpaper since I already had much of that. I probably used $15 to $20 worth of tape (basic blue painter's tape and Tamiya masking tape), and maybe the same amount of sandpaper? The polishing compound was maybe $17, and I had the bottle of car wax lying around.


I'm not sure if I would do it again. If so, I would probably simplify the scheme a bit and pick the paint cans out in person to get a better match!

Thats too much IMHO. However that really depends on which part of the planet you live in.
I made a deal with a car body body shop.
Paint cost me under 10$
Primer, CC, labor was like 30$.

I did the sanding but nasty stuff is handled by the shop.
40$ in total.

3
29er / Re: LCFS947 - 160mm 4-bar 27+/29
« on: November 01, 2022, 08:13:11 AM »
sorry for my English, i am Malaysian, bear with it

here i gonna share my build that finish last week, and been participated a DH competition in malaysia mersing,
frame size is M size

Parts :
FOX 36 grip 2 160mm
FOX float X2
Formula CURA 4 4 piston brake
(gonna change to deore 4 pot due to compatibility to frame and deore 4 pot is the best brake and value in my humble opinion)
Shimano m9100 rotors
MULLET setup: entity SLX 29/27.5 (from polygon T8/7)  gonna try LC rim when the bills pile up
Shimano deore 1x12 CS
Shimano deore FC crank
Shimano XTR RD
Shimano pro 50mm stem
Shimano pro handle bar
Shimano pro seatpost
FOX transfer 175mm dropper (not recommend it, too long even with 180cm height)
vinyl wrap Mazda soul red but turnout it more like a charry red

I did printed out the mudguard that shared by Tjhosan to see is it fit float x2,
however it is a blind section, i guess it is ok, as i survive 2 feet drop and huge road gap without cracking the mudguard..

geometry is superb, came from polygon t8 L size 29er user, this bike felt light to control on air, fun, rock garden section became so much controllable compare to T8

to the dropper length, 175mm dropper definitely is a huge NO for m size frame, i barely use 125 of droppers travel, and i am a 180cm height person
the 130mm insert is not enough to make the dropper comfortable either climbing nor moving in the air.
gonna change to 150mm dropper, and i guess it will be perfect as it will lower down at least 25mm length at retreated position.




One of the cleanest build so far, I loved the color. I'm having size large and want to know if anyone tried oneup v2 180mm(maybe shimmed to 170)?
I'm using brandx 150mm it fits only ok a little short when full length.
Wondering if oneup 180 allow enough room or 150 is the only option.

4
29er / Re: LCFS947 - 160mm 4-bar 27+/29
« on: October 24, 2022, 02:55:44 PM »
I have same drivetrain using shimano BB-MT800; better looking than bb52 cost more, last more and thats about it.

5
29er / Re: LCFS958 Build (eventually)
« on: October 24, 2022, 07:46:05 AM »
Update **

Bike is currently broken. Made it three laps down the mountain at my local park and on the final lap the lower mounting bolts sheared off into the shock. I thought at first maybe they didn’t get torqued and fell out but no. It’s a shame I’m having these issue because I do enjoy the bike as a whole.
:o :o

You installed the shock, did you find trunnion side especially tight?
Compared to 947 trunnion bolt seems longer for the 958 also not supported enough?
It was almost impossible for me to install the shock without loosing linkage bolt for 947.

6
29er / Re: Carbonda FM 1003 / Flybike FM 1266 180mm "Super Enduro"
« on: October 17, 2022, 10:54:56 AM »
I'm not sure about this, but I think the linkage design could be following the Canfield Balance Formula. If so, then aside from being heavier, this would be the best climbing bike from Carbonda. Revel has a few CBF bikes. I've always wanted to try it.

I just saw this clip

https://www.instagram.com/p/Cjn9Ho0jhVF/

7
29er / Re: LCFS958 Build (eventually)
« on: October 15, 2022, 11:40:40 AM »
Spot on. Lol.

Getting closer. Ordered a dropper remote incompatible with my post and I need longer shift cable. But it’s 90% there. I will say the clearances on this frame are TIGHT. Putting it back together was hell and I definitely scratched the paint. Luckily in places you can’t see when it’s together. Cable routing isn’t bad, the dropper being the worst to maneuver.

Also waiting on longer riser bars but apparently the train they’re on has mechanical issues. So maybe I’ll button this up in about a week.

I know that feeling, it was quite hard time to assemble again. I actually mentioned that if i recall correctly. Damaged the paint as well, nothing serious but still worth mentioning. It will be chemically bonded in weeks during this season. No frame protection yet!

I used SprayMaxx 2k clear. I shot one coat then wet sanded 800 grit. Then did a heavy coat and let it cure for 24 hours. I could have gone heavier in some spots but from 5ft away the bike looks great and that’s all I was really going for.

My paint guy found this totally unnecessary. I also made a research and went with the less time consuming 3 layer clear coat.
Base coat
30mins
Clearcoat
10mins
another layer
10mins....

I'm pretty sure your method is better with frame tight clearance since it has thinner coating overall.

Let us know the close up results under daylight :).

8
29er / Re: LCFS958 Build (eventually)
« on: October 14, 2022, 01:41:00 PM »
Last day of painting. Going to give it a day or so to fully cure.

Whats your procedure for clear coat? wet or dry?

9
29er / Re: FM1002 / FM1166 - 150mm frame
« on: October 13, 2022, 01:23:04 PM »
I don't intend to do that. I just won't buy paint from them on future builds. The build price on this bike was... hefty. Getting $50 for a paint job that, while chippy, still looks pretty good isn't something I want to bother with.

I don't recommend DIY painting. Especially if you don't own equipment or place to do. Covering every hole is time consuming unless you have a machine for cutting sticker then you can simply measure, print and cover it up. It requires patience, planning and little bit of experience or moderate amount of youtube videos.

Also if you crash and cause chipped/scratched paint, you will understand the real pain. ;D

10
29er / Re: FM1002, ICAN P9 or Lexon Spark?
« on: October 13, 2022, 11:20:21 AM »
Many thanks for the suggestion on FM1002, looks like there is no contest.

FM1003 seems a bit "too much bike" for me.

Yes my 160mm is a 29er fork.

There is no such thing  ;D

11
29er / Re: LCFS947 - 160mm 4-bar 27+/29
« on: October 12, 2022, 05:29:04 PM »


Looks like you need to be extra careful about seat clamp torque.

12
29er / Re: Carbonda FM 1003 / Flybike FM 1266 180mm "Super Enduro"
« on: October 12, 2022, 10:31:33 AM »
 
Just barely had light enough at the end of the day to get it out and try our local trails last night. I can only compare it with my 2017 Diamondback Release aluminum framed bike (similar to a Santa Cruz 5010 in geometry). The FM 1003 definitely did what I needed it to. It climbs at least as well as my diamondback and just smashes through EVERYTHING on the descent. I took a couple of bad lines that put me into rocks that I normally try to avoid and found that I could just ride over them with impunity. I've had more pedal strikes on this bike than with my Diamondback, but I think it's mostly been my line choices. If I can get out of work early enough this afternoon, I'll give it some more seat time. I'm pretty pleased with it and the paint looks great so far.

Such a nice build man, tell us more about the shock linkage if you can.

13
29er / Re: LCFS947 - 160mm 4-bar 27+/29
« on: October 12, 2022, 10:23:22 AM »
Sorry dude. I'm really bummed as well. LC has e-mailed me saying that they will tweak the mold or the pivot for the future. I can't see that happening any time soon.

Imagine they lower the pivot point and clear the dropper insertion for 3-5cm. I wouldn't care about exposed shock at all.

14
29er / Re: Carbonda Fm-1002 vs lightcarbon lcfs947
« on: October 06, 2022, 12:11:24 PM »
I rather deal with 2 bearings than shorter seat tube length. 947 works ok with the oneupv2 but i already have non-oneup dropper and don't want to spend 200+$ for additional one.
So if you are planning to buy a Large frame you can work with oneup v2's dropper(short stack).

15
29er / Re: Carbonda FM-1306A a 69° Hardtail
« on: September 27, 2022, 04:59:39 AM »
Amazon discovered very early that shipping costs were a psychological barrier to buy and optimised about it.
For the budget of a bike and the years you will ride it, it can be relativised.


So its more like a tribute rather than actual service cost?

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