Chinertown
Chinese Carbon Road Bikes => Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components => Topic started by: eddietheengineer on November 22, 2023, 09:22:01 PM
-
Hello everyone and happy thanksgiving to the US folks!
I wanted to create a build thread for my Airwolf YFR066 to document my experience with the frameset, as well as all the rest of the Aliexpress deals I have gotten over 11.11 sales (and soon to be black friday sales).
Overall goals:
-Less aggressive geometry (my current bike I don't have steerer tube left and I need a >17 degree stem to get the handlebars up enough)
-Space for larger tires (25c barely fits with my current frame, 28-32C is ideal with room to grow)
-hydraulic disc brakes
-full carbon ~50mm wheels with wide rim width, tubeless compatible
-newer groupset with at least 11 speed
-Compact/semi compact crank with shorter crank arms (and power meter)
-Similar weight or lighter than my current ~2010 era road bike (~18 lbs)
-As many random Aliexpress orders as I can get :)
Here's a link to a Google Sheets with parts list and Aliexpress links: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1y6uIFHe2vutMn3ikGuVbpPe8hX08V3uloqBeOdkRBoc/edit?usp=sharing
I've also attached a screenshot of the document to this post as a reference.
Quick overview:
-Airwolf YFR066 frame without integrated cockpit
-Elitewheels Edge 50mm wheels
-OG-Evkin stem/handlebar
-Shimano Ultegra 11 speed hydraulic disc groupset
-Magene P505 power meter
-GP5000 ~30c tires
Currently rolling up in the 16-17lb range.
Received so far:
-OG-Evkin handlebar
-Shimano Ultegra groupset
-
Super excited to see this build. I also ordered the YFR066 (though I chose painted w/ integrated cockpit) during 11.11 sale for ~$515 inc taxes. Can't wait for your updates.
-
Small update--I ended up getting some more odds and ends during Black Friday:
-Magene P505 power meter (will use my Shimano Ultegra chainrings)
-Brake bleed kit
-Internal housing foam/damper
-Brake hose cutting tool
-ExAid ultralight bottle cages
-OG-EVKIN bar tape
Nearly everything has shown up so far except the frame and power meter (was a pre-buy--shipped yesterday). The frame is still stuck in paint I think--it's taken way longer than I expected to get everything through.
Weights:
-Shimano 160mm rotor - 117g w/ lockring
-Shimano 140mm rotor - 98g w/ lockring
-Elitewheels Front - 635g
-Elitewheels Rear - 731g
-Ultegra cassette - 244g
-
Been running that same combination of OG-Evkin bars+stem for >2yrs now. Very nice finishing, very nice riding too, although I don't have much experience with other bars/stems...
Only issue I had was with internal routing through the bars, lines seem too tight and couldn't make it work, so I ended up routing through the outside anyway, doesn't make that much of a difference
-
Mechanically is doesn't but esthetically it's worth all the frustration of internally routing through the bars
-
I ordered tubeless valve stems since the wheels didn't come with any--and promptly ordered the wrong size. I had selected 80mm, but then picked a different color and it auto selected 60mm instead :D so I had to order another set. They arrived today, so I was finally able to install the tires!
I used the included rim tape from the Elitewheels box--I was debating one or two wraps, but after one wrap on one wheel it looked like there was definitely not enough for two wraps, so I stuck with about 1 1/4 for each wheel.
I was really worried installing the GP5000s since I've heard so many nightmares with tubeless tires on road bikes, but I was able to get them installed by hand. One thing that helped was getting the tire to "straddle" the rim for the first bead so it didn't want to pop off so much.
I was also able to seat the whole rim with a floor pump as well. I didn't put in sealant yet, but pumped up to ~70psi, which is close to the max recommended for 30c tires on these rims. I was surprised that even with the 30c tires, they didn't overlap the external width of the rim too much.
As far as other parts--frame still hasn't shipped, though the last communication I had a few days ago was that it was possibly in paint. There's a few days remaining in the (extended) shipping time, so hopefully I'll see movement yet. At this rate even the power meter will beat the frame here!
-
Update on Airwolf fiasco, I've repeatedly tried to get info from Airwolf on when my frame will get shipped but other than one message "I'm asking the paint factory" I haven't heard anything from them. Today, I asked if the frame was going to ship before the ship time ran out, and they didn't message me back, but marked the frame as "shipped" with no tracking number. Suffice to say, this isn't very confidence inspiring. I'm 35 days into this order--I've definitely given them the benefit of the doubt, but this feels fishy to me.
Hopefully they will update with a tracking number early next week.
-
I'm in the same situation as you but I'm giving them the benefit of the doubt. I ordered on 11.11 (yfr68 frame painted) as well so I think they just had a massive increase in orders (at least that's what I hope). Also, when ordering, Ali gave me an estimated delivery date of 30/01 so I'm not worrying too much as of now.
-
That's helpful context! Mine had an estimated delivery date of 12/2 which seemed unrealistic :D
I really want this order to go through--I really like the YFR066 frame (geometry, specs, etc) and I paid a great price for it, I'm just looking forward to building up my bike :)
-
I asked them once again, will keep you posted if I get an answer (probably after the weekend).
-
They updated it with a number that looks like a tracking number but has no info yet. I'll be curious how long the shipment takes :)
-
Also waiting on my YFR066 from the 11/11 sale (albeit my order was on 11/13 due aliexpress issues). Its marked as shipped on 12/06 but no tracking code. Nice to see theres a community of us waiting on airwolf lol.
-
Ordered on 11.28, estimated delivery of 12.19
On 12.4 I was told it needed 10 days, on 12.14 was told they would check with the factory
I'm guessing mid January
-
Got an answer this morning: 'I have arranged for a logistics provider to transport the goods '. Guess that means it will be shipped soon, we'll see ;D
-
My tracking number got updated to a UPS tracking number, so hopefully that means it will arrive a bit faster than the standard 2 weeks
-
Ordered on 11.28, estimated delivery of 12.19
On 12.4 I was told it needed 10 days, on 12.14 was told they would check with the factory
I'm guessing mid January
On 12.19 my order was changed to shipped so that the timer wouldn't expire, but in messages they said it is just now in paint and needs about another week.
-
Small update--UPS tracking shows the package was picked up in Hong Kong with a weight of 4.2kg, and it has an estimated delivery date of tomorrow ;D. I'm not getting my hopes up that it will actually make it by then since HK -> USA is a long trip! but I do live close to a major UPS hub so it's possible it will be air shipped directly to my city.
The power meter is also in my state! So it should probably be delivered by tomorrow as well.
-
Some initial photos...
Power meter and frame arrived today! I was surprised it included both the bottom bracket and headset (I already ordered a bottom bracket). Note I did pay extra to have both 7x7 and 7x9 seatpost mounts available.
-
Second photo post--some quick early photos trying to take shots inside the frame. I know an elementary level of carbon--I think this is using the air bladder style inside instead of the EPS that newer/nicer frames use? It definitely doesn't look as nice as other internal shots I've seen, but I don't know if it's an unsafe level?
-
Another update today!
Of course I couldn't wait to start putting things together--so I got started with mounting everything I could. Routing the front/rear brake housings and the rear derailleur housing was pretty uneventful; most of the time I didn't even really worry about using a guide to get the housings through. I have some foam vibration dampers in to prevent rattling.
However--the front derailleur mount is being an absolute pain. It feels like it's too small to insert properly with a ferrule on the end of the housing, and if I don't use a ferrule, the housing bends at a sharp angle (see 3rd and 4th photos), isn't secure in the mount, and the cable grinds against the opening of the mount in the frame and is essentially seized up. I'm not quite sure what to do--I may try to get a small tool in there to bend the mount open a bit and see if I can make it round enough to get a ferrule in there.
Finally--I added some more photos inside the frame that I took with my endoscope camera.
-
Finally figured it out--silly mistake :).
1. Unscrew the bolt holding the front derailleur housing stop, you'll need to hold the back side of the "spring clip" by putting your finger into the frame so it doesn't spin freely.
2. Once the bolt is loose, remove the housing stop and retrieve the "spring clip" that fell into the bottom bracket area
3. Route the front derailleur housing out of the opening in the frame
4. Thread the spring clip back onto the bolt--only screw on enough to get the thread started
5. Put the assembly on the end of the front derailleur housing
6. Push the assembly back into the opening as far as you can. It won't fully seat because the spring clip needs to be pushed in far enough to "spring" into the opening in the frame. Use an allen/hex wrench to push the bolt (with the spring clip barely threaded on the end) into the frame--pushing the bolt directly will push the spring clip into the frame enough that it will actually grab
7. Screw the bolt until the front derailleur housing step is secured. Note you may need to put your finger on the spring clip so it doesn't rotate
Hopefully that description plus the photos makes it easier for the next person! I routed all three cables up through the down tube--front derailleur in the center (with foam), then rear brake on the brake side and read derailleur housing on the derailleur side. Everything routed through the headset pretty easily.
My OG-EVKIN stem is really tight on the steerer tube, I had to pry it open a bit with a flat head screwdriver to get it to fit (my aluminum stem had no issues fitting, so it seems like a OG-EVKIN stem issue, not the fork steerer tube issue).
Bike is ~15.4lbs so far, need the chain, pedals, bar tape, and seat yet. I'm not looking forward to routing the derailleur/brake lines through the handlebars or bleeding brakes--I may get the bike set up on my trainer and do a few bike fit tests before everything is completed to try and make sure the handlebar height is in the ballpark before routing everything. I plan on leaving a good bit of steerer tube free to make sure I can adjust more as needed down the road.
-
More progress--got the drivetrain set up (at least temporarily) without running the cables through the handlebars. I wanted to get it set up on my trainer so I could start doing some fit assessment (I still have ~8 months left on a MyVeloFit subscription) and get things in the ballpark.
I'm trying not to freak out too much--but the entire front end of the bike is like a wet noodle. From what I can tell, everything is flexing--frame, headset/steerer tube, stem, handlebar. I'm going to try and swap out for a known good handlebar and stem to isolate those components at least, but I'm really concerned this frame will essentially be worthless.
-
Oof thats rough to hear that the frame is not solid. Thank you for the continued updates.
My frame is expected to arrive in week or so and hopefully I'll be able to tell you if its a defect or if mine has it too.
-
oh that’s bad news.
But it is most probably to a big part just the handlebar.
Wish you luck!
-
With your temporary fork, this may seem normal. To see when it will be cut with a long expander taking into account your number of spacers under the handlebars
-
That's a good point--now that I've done some initial fit testing I should be able to cut it down quite a bit
-
Finally got the brakes bled and everything working so that I could do my first ride today! There are some odds and ends I need to look into still, but the key part is that the handlebar area is incredibly flexy still. I know some of it is due to the handlebars and stem--but a significant portion is due to the frame. I can see it twisting visibly when I push on one side or the other of the handlebar. I don't have a specific deflection amount, but it feels like the shifters are flexing by about 1" down when I push on one side or the other--it's not a small amount and I'm not pushing all that hard.
I did note right before I rode it that it seems like maybe the top cap is rubbing on the frame--when I tightened the headset the whole handlebar becomes stiff turning left/right, but when I loosen it there's visible play. I'm hoping that's it and maybe I just need a shim, but that means that I'll at a minimum have to remove the fork and front brake housing so I can put a shim in there without undoing all of the cable routing :( I'm going to message Airwolf and get their feedback.
Bike as shown is 17.8 lbs.
-
With your current installation, you have no headset compression. I'm not an expert but I would avoid forcing the handlebars until you have compressed the headset with the expander that goes under the stem.
-
100%, at this point the bike is going to just sit there until I can find a shim and get the motivation to spend a few hours undoing and redoing everything
-
I had those same bars from OG Evkin on a bike that I sold. I had them in 42cm width first and then bought them in 40cm. I can confirm that both bars were very flexy. The 42 exponentially more than the 40. It did not bother me hugely and I rode thousands of km on this handlebar, raced it and even crashed it. The flex did add to the comfort. But if you're a sprinter, you should probably look elsewhere.
Also, you got around 6cm of spacers below your stem by the looks of it? That's inevitably gonna add flex. Add a flexy bar on top of that and I can see how this would feel rather disconcerting.
-
100%, at this point the bike is going to just sit there until I can find a shim and get the motivation to spend a few hours undoing and redoing everything
I have an Elves Vanyar which has a low head tube (120 mm). I am 178 cm tall. Rather than adding spacers under the handlebars, I opted for very few spacers with a 0° stem (Easton) and not -6 or -10 as is often the case.
-
Progress update!
Airwolf messaged back and asked for a photo of the assembled bike and I sent them an image this morning--not much there yet. I've tried the following:
Removed the top cap (shown in the image), so the headset spacers contact the 3/4 diameter "doughnut" that seats in the bearing. This 100% removed any chance of interference. I put my old aluminum stem and handlebar on the frame and tried pressing down on the handlebars to compare against my current bike. While the frame still deflected some, it wasn't nearly as bad as it was, and it was roughly similar to my current bike! This is good news, if I can get the interference solved then it's maybe salvageable.
Second test--tried to put a thin shim between the top cap and the "doughnut". This didn't work with any of the shims I had since the outer diameter is too large--it contacts the housings passing through the top cap and I can't compress everything together.
Obviously the tolerance stackup of their heatset cup placement isn't great. I've sent a quick message to them telling them that it is rubbing and contacting and to ask them what to do--I have some hacky ideas I could possibly do myself, but I'd rather them tell me what to do since it's their issue.
-
Another update--FSA no.69 headset came in today! I tried swapping everything out (including the fork headset race), but that didn't work. Using the Airwolf fork headset race, with everything else from the FSA headset works great!
I'll be doing everything hopefully for the final time today--cutting the steerer tube, routing the cables through the handlebar, and bleeding brakes/adjusting derailleurs.
-
Another update--FSA no.69 headset came in today! I tried swapping everything out (including the fork headset race), but that didn't work. Using the Airwolf fork headset race, with everything else from the FSA headset works great!
Fast shipping! I'm happy the FSA no.69 worked out for you. It's such a game changer. I keep multiple spares of that headset around just in case LoL.
-
Should I snag a FSA headset preemptively for my 066 build?
-
Fast shipping! I'm happy the FSA no.69 worked out for you. It's such a game changer. I keep multiple spares of that headset around just in case LoL.
Thanks for the tip! I ended up using the stock lower headset bearings and race, and then the FSA top bearing assembly--it felt like the combination of the FSA lower bearing and stock bearing race was wobbling just a bit so I was conservative there.
I like how the FSA headset cap is matte black and matches the frame!
Tonight I got all the way to where I could ride it again--except with just the front brake bled since I was running out of time. The front end is definitely soft, but not like it was before. It'll be a nice comfortable ride, and I know I can make it a bit stiffer if I swap out the handlebars. Oh--and this time redoing the internal handlebar routing I had a routing kit. I would have saved so much time......
I won't be able to ride this week, but my hope is Saturday or Sunday I can bleed the rear brake and do some minor tuning, and then go on a ride around the neighborhood!
Should I snag a FSA headset preemptively for my 066 build?
I'd defer to Patrick, but if I had to make a guess--if he had an issue with it and then I had the same issue, you're probably going to run into a similar problem (at least if you didn't get the integrated handlebar). I'm not sure if the integrated handlebar top assembly solves some of that
-
I did get the integrated handlebar, guess we will see if I need it! Did you get any grommets for the cable exits or should I order some? Trying to make sure I have all the causes of possible noises taken care of, as well as better waterproofing since I’m in Seattle. Also, my order is finally in the states but it’s been sitting in LA customs for a couple days. Hope it shows up soon.
-
I did get the integrated handlebar, guess we will see if I need it! Did you get any grommets for the cable exits or should I order some? Trying to make sure I have all the causes of possible noises taken care of, as well as better waterproofing since I’m in Seattle. Also, my order is finally in the states but it’s been sitting in LA customs for a couple days. Hope it shows up soon.
I didn't get any grommets for the cable exits, but I did use the foam "sleeving" to go around the internal cable routing specifically from the head tube area, down through the down tube, and all the way to the point where the chain stays neck down. I had rattles with my previous bike without those, so I spent the extra few dollars to pick up some of those from Aliexpress.
I'll be really curious what you think about the integrated handlebar! Depending on how things go with my bike and if I settle on a fit, I may go back and try to buy that depending on your experience.
-
Just received my bike, had 30 minutes so decided to checkout the headset and the one it comes with is absolutely shit. It's plastic and the spacers are cheap plastic too and fairly poorly manufactured where they don't sit perfectly on each other. The photo from the site makes them look like they're not plastic, but these are quiet crappy.
-
Just received my bike, had 30 minutes so decided to checkout the headset and the one it comes with is absolutely shit. It's plastic and the spacers are cheap plastic too and fairly poorly manufactured where they don't sit perfectly on each other. The photo from the site makes them look like they're not plastic, but these are quiet crappy.
That's really disappointing, do you think you'll have to try out a different headset/fork? Or will you be able to make it work?
I did my first ride on Thursday around the neighborhood, and other than tightening a few bolts everything worked okay. I need to work on fit some more, my Velofit seemed to put the seat too far down and with my 165mm cranks it just felt like my legs were "compressed" and I couldn't really get much power out. I did notice that if I brake hard, the fork does "chatter" some front/back, but I haven't ever had a disc road bike so that may be normal?
Overall, I really like the Ultegra mechanical groupset, shifting has been reliable and smooth even with the internal cable routing.
-
Cool! I've been following this thread with the greatest interest, as that bike is pretty much all in my Aliexpress cart (airwolf frame, Magene power meter, Elite wheels)
I even put that same saddle on my Triban today
All in all, as of today, would you advise to buy or to look for something else?
-
Cool! I've been following this thread with the greatest interest, as that bike is pretty much all in my Aliexpress cart (airwolf frame, Magene power meter, Elite wheels)
I even put that same saddle on my Triban today
All in all, as of today, would you advise to buy or to look for something else?
If I could redo--I would not buy the Airwolf frame, but I would get something like the Carbonda CFR1056. I realize that frame only goes up to 32c instead of 38c tires, but the frame/fork/etc quality from Airwolf has been really disappointing. I'll try my best to not think about how I wish I had spent the extra on a higher quality frame, but I wouldn't wish my experience on someone else. In general this frame/fork is not very confidence inspiring.
Otherwise--I would also not get this specific handlebar or stem. The stem barely fit on the steerer tube (I had to use a flat screwdriver to pry the clamp open a bit to get it to fit), and the handlebar is not as stiff as the others I've used.
Wheels, groups, seat, power meter, tires--all of those I've been happy with!
-
That's really disappointing, do you think you'll have to try out a different headset/fork? Or will you be able to make it work?
I did my first ride on Thursday around the neighborhood, and other than tightening a few bolts everything worked okay. I need to work on fit some more, my Velofit seemed to put the seat too far down and with my 165mm cranks it just felt like my legs were "compressed" and I couldn't really get much power out. I did notice that if I brake hard, the fork does "chatter" some front/back, but I haven't ever had a disc road bike so that may be normal?
Overall, I really like the Ultegra mechanical groupset, shifting has been reliable and smooth even with the internal cable routing.
Your bike looks great, so at least you have that going for you!
For the fork and integrated handlebars, I have it lined up with only 2 spacers and it looks a little better with some pressure applied. Plan on finishing the build enough this week to ride it a little, hoping the 2 spacers are enough or that I can even remove one for my fit, then I'll cut the fork and brakes lines down and finish it up.
So far I've routed the brake lines and the di2 cables and battery, which was easy. Installed levers, bottom bracket, crank, crankset, brakes, etc. All of that has been easy and quality has been good on those tolerances on the frame. Synced the di2. Just need to throw on the wheelset and bleed the brakes so I can play with the headset spacers.
Cool! I've been following this thread with the greatest interest, as that bike is pretty much all in my Aliexpress cart (airwolf frame, Magene power meter, Elite wheels)
I even put that same saddle on my Triban today
All in all, as of today, would you advise to buy or to look for something else?
Will let you know my report on it soon, but probably would have been happier spending $200 more for something with higher quality.
-
Thank you both very much, that's a shame as this frame ticked so many boxes in what I would want from an allrounder bike.
Will look for something similar, starting from that Carbonda
-
Your bike looks great, so at least you have that going for you!
Thanks! I think so too :) I was a bit concerned the aesthetics wouldn't turn out but I'm satisfied with that.
-
I'll cover my full story in the main YFR066 thread once it is finished, so as to not hijack Eddie's build, but the short story is that I regret working with Airwolf
-
More integrated handlebar issues... after cutting down the fork and installing the compression plug, I went to install the cap that is fitted to the integrated handlebar and it doesn't sit flush. Basically nothing related to the integrated handlebar is manufactured well enough to have a clean fit.
-
Hello, guys! It's a pity I didn't see your messages last month. I've already ordered the frame, and it's almost here.
I hope I won't be too disappointed, but I'm already choosing a new frame. I'm now afraid to ride on such a frame on gravel. But in any case, I will try to assemble the bike and write here about its quality.
-
Finally got my first short ride in with the bike fully assembled (Seattle and the rainy weather bleh). Bike is very agile, frame is not totally noodley for me, but could be stiffer. If I were to do it again, still would consider throwing a couple hundred more on a different frame.
Anyways thought I'd drop a photo to share the complete build. Happy with the Di2 105 drivetrain too!
Total weight clocked in at 8.1kg including pedals, tires, tape, water bottle cages... everything you see here minus the water bottle itself. Not bad!
-
Looking good there! Tan walled tires with brown tape are going well together. If you ever come ride on Cedar river trail, I'll keep an eye out. Not many open mold bikes in the area.
-
Your build looks great! It's good to hear another opinion on the ride, I bet the integrated handlebar is stiffer than what I have too so that may be part of it!
-
Sorry to sneak into this thread as a +1. I've ordered a YFR066 frameset and integrated bars and have just been told it's been collected by DPD in China. The frameset was ordered on 18th December BTW and communication with Airwolf has been fine. It's going to be a slightly unusual build as I'm speccing the bike for very hilly sportive events (specifically the Fred Whitton Challenge here in the UK). Gearing will be 50/34 11-40, giving a 23" lowest gear. So far I've built the wheels, using Ryet hubs and 38mm rims off Aliexpress (Carbon Beam Store) with Sapim Race spokes - they come in at 1402g for the pair.
If there is interest in yet another YFR066 build, I'll keep the forum posted on how things go.
-
Sorry to sneak into this thread as a +1. I've ordered a YFR066 frameset and integrated bars and have just been told it's been collected by DPD in China. The frameset was ordered on 18th December BTW and communication with Airwolf has been fine. It's going to be a slightly unusual build as I'm speccing the bike for very hilly sportive events (specifically the Fred Whitton Challenge here in the UK). Gearing will be 50/34 11-40, giving a 23" lowest gear. So far I've built the wheels, using Ryet hubs and 38mm rims off Aliexpress (Carbon Beam Store) with Sapim Race spokes - they come in at 1402g for the pair.
If there is interest in yet another YFR066 build, I'll keep the forum posted on how things go.
I would definitely enjoy another take on this frame
-
Well, my frameset turned up today. First signs weren't encouraging...
(https://www.historicff2000.co.uk/Bikes/Box.jpg)
However, it had been packaged well inside the box and there doesn't appear to be any damage
I'm happy with the colour (Red Crystal)
(https://www.historicff2000.co.uk/Bikes/Frame1.jpg)
(https://www.historicff2000.co.uk/Bikes/Frame2.jpg)
The caliper mounts have been painted on the mounting faces so I'll need to sort that but the BB shell is within tolerance and round.
These are the weights...
Frame - Size 54, painted with derailleur mounts and bottle cage bolts 1120g
Fork, uncut 440g
Seatpost assembly 179g
Integrated bars - 400 wide 120mm stem 414g
I'm waiting for a few more bits but I'll post updates in due course.
-
Thanks for sharing and please keep us updated!
-
I'm waiting for a few more bits but I'll post updates in due course.
I registered on this forum because I am about to pull the trigger on a red crystal YFR066 frame, just like yours... And I was wondering if the paint job looks good.
Please do keep us updated!
-
I'm about 10 rides in to owning the frame, figured it makes sense to have an update. I did have one issue with the front derailleur mount bolts getting stripped after tightening them up. Was attempting to get to 5nm and they stripped at around 3nm, which seems really low. When it gets loose next, I'll extract them and replace them with better quality bolts. Not a big deal.
That being said, riding this bike has been excellent. I am happy with the stiffness and agility of the frame and the integrated handlebars.
As Eddie did, here is my build including all the tools I bought to assemble it: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1kxmcrzbgUrXaXckA3jgbMvaOweVeR3Iw0n9Df3uwnoA/edit?usp=sharing
-
I'm about 10 rides in to owning the frame, figured it makes sense to have an update. I did have one issue with the front derailleur mount bolts getting stripped after tightening them up. Was attempting to get to 5nm and they stripped at around 3nm, which seems really low. When it gets loose next, I'll extract them and replace them with better quality bolts. Not a big deal.
That being said, riding this bike has been excellent. I am happy with the stiffness and agility of the frame and the integrated handlebars.
As Eddie did, here is my build including all the tools I bought to assemble it: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1kxmcrzbgUrXaXckA3jgbMvaOweVeR3Iw0n9Df3uwnoA/edit?usp=sharing
Happy to read that!
So it sounds like a good bike, if you accept to face some building difficulties. Would you still advise spending more? (though I'm afraid the Carbonda would end up more than 200€ higher)
-
Happy to read that!
So it sounds like a good bike, if you accept to face some building difficulties. Would you still advise spending more? (though I'm afraid the Carbonda would end up more than 200€ higher)
That's a good question. My frame was $495 w/taxes including painting and the integrated handlebars because of the Aliexpress 11.11 sale which was definitely worth it, even if it did take 7 weeks to show up, but current price would be more like $610 so is that worth it? I don't know.
How much is the CFR 1056 frame (most similar geo)?
Also reading the 1056 build thread, people had headset issues on the carbonda frames too: https://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,2982.msg24577.html#msg24577
-
That's a good question. My frame was $495 w/taxes including painting and the integrated handlebars because of the Aliexpress 11.11 sale which was definitely worth it, even if it did take 7 weeks to show up, but current price would be more like $610 so is that worth it? I don't know.
How much is the CFR 1056 frame (most similar geo)?
Also reading the 1056 build thread, people had headset issues on the carbonda frames too: https://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,2982.msg24577.html#msg24577
Yeah, that's not inviting.
I don't have an exact price as I made an enquiry through their website a couple weeks ago but got no answer.
Reading here and there, it should be in the 8-900€ range including shipment (and possibly handlebar) for the painted integrated cable version.
Once you factor in also having to deal with them outside Aliexpress - so even more wild than it usually is, the Carbonda route is loosing its appeal too.
-
I received a price on carbonda 1056 couple of weeks ago. I almost bought it too, except I can get the painted YFR066 for $650 delivered to EU, while CFR1056 from Carbonda will amount to over $1000 delivered.
CFR1056 : US$650/set includes frame , fork , seat post ,clamp ,CHB1036 ( integrated stem handlebar)
headset: US $15.00
F&R axle: US $26.00
standard matte : free
UD matte , UD glossy : $105
One color: US:$70.00(matte or glossy,solid color )
Two colors: US$ :95.00 ( all matte or all glossy,solid color )
Two colors: US$ :105.00 ( matte and glossy,solid color )
Two color gradient : US$ :115.00 ( all matte or all glossy ,solid color )
Shipping cost(1 set of frame in one box)
195USD with duty paid service,About 15-35 days .
1,Bank transfer (You will bear the bank transaction fees for both sides )
2,alibaba( Alibaba will charge you a transaction fee of 2.99%/$40, and we will charge you a transaction fee of 2%)
3,paypal , 4.5% transaction fees .
-
I received a price on carbonda 1056 couple of weeks ago. I almost bought it too, except I can get the painted YFR066 for $650 delivered to EU, while CFR1056 from Carbonda will amount to over $1000 delivered.
CFR1056 : US$650/set includes frame , fork , seat post ,clamp ,CHB1036 ( integrated stem handlebar)
headset: US $15.00
F&R axle: US $26.00
standard matte : free
UD matte , UD glossy : $105
One color: US:$70.00(matte or glossy,solid color )
Two colors: US$ :95.00 ( all matte or all glossy,solid color )
Two colors: US$ :105.00 ( matte and glossy,solid color )
Two color gradient : US$ :115.00 ( all matte or all glossy ,solid color )
Shipping cost(1 set of frame in one box)
195USD with duty paid service,About 15-35 days .
1,Bank transfer (You will bear the bank transaction fees for both sides )
2,alibaba( Alibaba will charge you a transaction fee of 2.99%/$40, and we will charge you a transaction fee of 2%)
3,paypal , 4.5% transaction fees .
Wow! Nope, I'm not paying that much
Thanks for sharing
-
I registered on this forum because I am about to pull the trigger on a red crystal YFR066 frame, just like yours... And I was wondering if the paint job looks good.
Please do keep us updated!
Yes - the paint job looks good. However, as I said, the caliper mounts were not masked so I have had to remove the paint in those areas. In the absence of a £350 Park Tool that would do the job, I resorted to needle files and Stanley knife blades. My build will have hydraulic brakes but, in order to check that my filing was OK, I mounted a TRP Spyre mechanical caliper with the wheel and rotor in place. By manually adjusting the pad clearance it was possible to make sure that the pads were parallel to the rotor (ie the mounting surface was flat and square). It took me nearly an hour in total to get it right.
My build has stalled slightly as I chose the wrong width/stem length combination for the integrated bar so I've had to order another one- I'd failed to take into account the seatpost setback. I've got a shippping number but who knows when it will arrive with the Chinese New Year looming...
-
I'm about 10 rides in to owning the frame, figured it makes sense to have an update. I did have one issue with the front derailleur mount bolts getting stripped after tightening them up. Was attempting to get to 5nm and they stripped at around 3nm, which seems really low. When it gets loose next, I'll extract them and replace them with better quality bolts. Not a big deal.
That being said, riding this bike has been excellent. I am happy with the stiffness and agility of the frame and the integrated handlebars.
As Eddie did, here is my build including all the tools I bought to assemble it: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1kxmcrzbgUrXaXckA3jgbMvaOweVeR3Iw0n9Df3uwnoA/edit?usp=sharing
I think I'm getting to a similar point to you as well--the weather has gotten a bit nicer here and I've been able to take it out on more rides. With all the assembly woes behind me, the bike is growing on me. It feels fast, I am glad I went with the 165mm crank arms, 30mm tubeless wheels, etc.
I'm more confident with the bike in general, but I haven't had a big "hit" yet on a pothole to be confident that the handlebars won't slip or break, I'll probably put some carbon paste there just to be sure they don't rotate.
-
Right - I've pretty much finished my build and I have to say, it fought back every step of the way...
(https://www.historicff2000.co.uk/Bikes/Completed.jpg)
As I said earlier, it was specced for the hills - hence the dinnnerplate cassette. Despite that and the GRX rear mech it came in at around 7.5kg as pictured (7.9 with SPD pedals, cages and computer mount). I'll do a 20k ride on Thursday or Friday and let you know how it went...
-
Ok so morale of the story: don't buy frames from airwolf.
I have cockpits from them, love them.
-
Right - I've pretty much finished my build and I have to say, it fought back every step of the way...
(https://www.historicff2000.co.uk/Bikes/Completed.jpg)
As I said earlier, it was specced for the hills - hence the dinnnerplate cassette. Despite that and the GRX rear mech it came in at around 7.5kg as pictured (7.9 with SPD pedals, cages and computer mount). I'll do a 20k ride on Thursday or Friday and let you know how it went...
Hi Alan, what's the feedback?
I'm so close to pulling the trigger despite all that's been written here, those Aliexpress coupons are so tempting
-
I haven't ridden it as much as I'd hoped for various reasons. Everything has been fine. No brake rub, comfortable (for me) and it bowls along very nicely. I would give the frameset a cautious recommendation as lonf as you're prepared to do the necessary fettling to make sure everything goes together nicely.
-
I haven't ridden it as much as I'd hoped for various reasons. Everything has been fine. No brake rub, comfortable (for me) and it bowls along very nicely. I would give the frameset a cautious recommendation as lonf as you're prepared to do the necessary fettling to make sure everything goes together nicely.
Thanks for the feedback, that's encouraging and I'm glad your bike once completed is good! For the moment I resisted the urge (well, I bougth carbon wheels and handlebar for my current bike) but I'll see when the next sales comes on
-
So I’m waiting for my frame to be delivered. I’ve ordered this in raw carbon, airwolf wheels, sram axs rival groupset, Selle Italia saddle, and look keo pedals. I’ve got everything but the frame.
How is the frame at this point?
-
How is everyone’s seat post fit? I have a second build (velobuild 268) and the seat post on that one fits perfectly in the frame, good manufacturing tolerances, which made me realize my YFR066 is pretty loose in the frame until the bolt is tightened. Anyone notice this too?
-
How is everyone’s seat post fit? I have a second build (velobuild 268) and the seat post on that one fits perfectly in the frame, good manufacturing tolerances, which made me realize my YFR066 is pretty loose in the frame until the bolt is tightened. Anyone notice this too?
I'd agree with you--the seat post has pretty loose tolerances. FWIW I haven't had any issues with it slipping in the frame, though I did have to crank down the seat post to seat bolt to stop it slipping.
-
Is it even possible to buy a seatpost from another manufacturer?