Chinertown
Chinese Carbon MTB => 29er => Topic started by: Andrewuk5 on January 10, 2023, 02:43:47 PM
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Looking to buy either the Carbonda FM1001 or FM1002.
Is the 1002 a full enduro frame?
I ride mostly black trails with 6ft ish drops, would the 1001 cope with my 120kg, or would the longer travel 1002 suit me ?
I'd like it to be a good climber too.
Any help would be great, I'm new to carbon in general but the geo looks great on these frames.
Thanks
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I'd go for the 1002 if it were your only bike. Both bikes will climb well with the new modern body position. Real climbing differences will moreso come down to the spec choices on each, especially the tires.
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I’d definitely pick the 1002 for what you’re describing. The 1001 might technically handle it but the 1002 is much more specifically suited to it.
Heck, a lot of riders would suggest the 1003 for what you’re talking about…but the 1002 can handle it and is a great all-around AM bike.
If you want “real” enduro, go with a 1003. It can be run at 170/170 if you find that 180 is overkill for you.
I ran my 1002 with a 170 fork last season but will probably run it with a 160 in 2023 along with a 1003 at 170/170.
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As for climbing, the 1001 and 1002 use the same linkage with basically the same kinematics to the 135mm point — the 1002 just puts a longer shock on it. They both climb quite well for a 4-bar linkage.
Nobody has compared the 1001/2 with the 1003 head to head — I hope to be the first, in a few months — but all descriptions are of it climbing very well for a long travel bike. Looking at it, I bet it climbs just as well if not even a little better than the 4-bars. It’s a slick little design, very well balanced in all its attributes.
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I ride the FM1002 and its great, but the FM1003 is going to be a lot more durable and handle weight better. That frame weighs 1KG more than the FM1002 and is probably way stiffer.
I would put the FM1002 as a super aggressive trail bike, but not a full Enduro bike. Kind of like the Transition Sentinel.
With the FM1003, you could have a super capable Enduro bike under 15Kg
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Wow, thanks guys for your advice.
Think I'll go with the 1002 frame, paired with a DVO Topaz shock.
How is the paint from Carbonda? Im debating on just getting the matt black as they said it's clear coated too, will get it a lot faster.
Also do you press the headset in these carbon frames like Al?
Thanks again!
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Wow, thanks guys for your advice.
Think I'll go with the 1002 frame, paired with a DVO Topaz shock.
How is the paint from Carbonda? Im debating on just getting the matt black as they said it's clear coated too, will get it a lot faster.
Also do you press the headset in these carbon frames like Al?
Thanks again!
The matte black has been fine for me. Not the highest quality paint but in most situations there’s no real practical difference from most branded bikes. It just chips, scuffs and gets shiny from rub (bike shorts, shoes brushing the top tube when you mount/dismount etc) a little easily. Emphasis on a little.
Looks awesome though, so few branded bikes are available in matte black.
Headset is drop-in…the Carbonda OEM lets water in a little easily (when washing the bike etc) and becomes creaky within a fairly short time under aggressive riding. Would suggest a third party headset such as Ritchey or FSA no.55R. The 55R is in short supply in the USA so you may have to order one from the EU; I got my latest one for my 1003 build from BikeInn.
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Great thanks for the tips. Will be sure to try pick up an FSA headset.
Will I need additional hardware to mount the Topaz 205x60 shock? Its brandnew.
Cheers
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Wow, thanks guys for your advice.
Think I'll go with the 1002 frame, paired with a DVO Topaz shock.
How is the paint from Carbonda? Im debating on just getting the matt black as they said it's clear coated too, will get it a lot faster.
Also do you press the headset in these carbon frames like Al?
Thanks again!
Currently, paint is a dice roll. Sometimes perfect, sometimes it has a lot of issues
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Great thanks for the tips. Will be sure to try pick up an FSA headset.
Will I need additional hardware to mount the Topaz 205x60 shock? Its brandnew.
Cheers
The trunnion end is all set with the supplied bolts, you just need hardware for the rocker arm end. Because this end rotates so significantly during travel, I used a RWC roller bearing for maximum small bump performance instead of DU bushings. But regular Fox DU bushings or similar (DVO sells their own that is basically identical) will get the job done.
The RWC bearings are great but you also have to get the special RWC installation tool to reliably get them in place. Regular bushing presses aren’t stable enough to do it perfectly straight.
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The trunnion end is all set with the supplied bolts, you just need hardware for the rocker arm end. Because this end rotates so significantly during travel, I used a RWC roller bearing for maximum small bump performance instead of DU bushings. But regular Fox DU bushings or similar (DVO sells their own that is basically identical) will get the job done.
The RWC bearings are great but you also have to get the special RWC installation tool to reliably get them in place. Regular bushing presses aren’t stable enough to do it perfectly straight.
I will probably opt for the bushing to keep costs low for now as I'm already over budget. Could you link me to the correct ones if possible? For 1002 frame & Topaz shock. Its all new to me, lol.
Cheers
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You want 8x30mm (approximate; some tiny fraction of a mm over or under is usually compatible) Fox DU polymer bushings, if memory serves.
(Updated, original misquoted the size. I was probably thinking of the 1003’s yoke mount, since that’s my current project.)
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If I was to order the RWC needle bearings would I need the 8x30 kit? Cheers
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If I was to order the RWC needle bearings would I need the 8x30 kit? Cheers
Yup, that’s the one I ordered.
And I corrected my previous reply, 30mm is the right size for whatever you’re using. Originally I was probably thinking of the hardware for a 1003 since that’s my current project.
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Thanks mate I have ordered it.
What is the chainline on these frames do you know?
Trying to pick a crankset. Can't wait for frame to arrive!
Cheers
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Thanks mate I have ordered it.
What is the chainline on these frames do you know?
Trying to pick a crankset. Can't wait for frame to arrive!
Cheers
Standard Boost — 52-53mm IIRC.
Personally I’m running Atlas cranks and Raceface direct mount rings on both my MTBs. With the way you described your riding style with the emphasis on drops, I’d definitely suggest something equivalent. In contrast, I found Truvativ Descendant/DUB noticeably flexier when trying to steer with the pedals in hectic flow. Even running a good Wheels Mfg BB.
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Great advice mate really appreciate it. Would you say 170mm cranks? Hope your 1003 build is coming on well for you!
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Great advice mate really appreciate it. Would you say 170mm cranks? Hope your 1003 build is coming on well for you!
I’ve always just run 175s because I have a long stride and slightly long legs for being 6’ tall…one of the things I really like about the 1002 with 2.6 tires compared with my previous bikes is that the BB isn’t crazy low so pedal strikes aren’t quite so excessive that I’ve felt the need to get shorter cranks.
Could be a different story with 2.3-2.4.
I haven’t put the money together yet to order the actual 1003 frame, that probably won’t happen for a few more weeks. I learned with last winter’s 1002 build that rushing to get it started around New Year’s left me with a lot of time just staring at it longingly all spring…we have a nasty, lingering mud season here in Maine.
But hopefully that’s imminent once I sell a few of the many parts I’ve been hanging on to, and my 2020 GT Force Pro frame which should pretty easily pay for the 1003 frame all by itself.
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Sorry I have been away. Thanks for your advice much appreciated.
Do you know the order of the drop in headset from Carbonda?
Especially the two thin steel rings. Thanks
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Sorry I have been away. Thanks for your advice much appreciated.
Do you know the order of the drop in headset from Carbonda?
Especially the two thin steel rings. Thanks
They come between the dust seal(the cover just before the stem or spacers)
And the compression ring(the ring that sits on the top bearings)
Only needed if the dust seal is in contact with the frame when you tighten the headset.
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Thanks for that. I seem to have a gap between top of frame and headset, there is also a wobble which i can't seem to iron out. Many thanks
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Thanks for that. I seem to have a gap between top of frame and headset, there is also a wobble which i can't seem to iron out. Many thanks
Both bearings need to be pressed in the headtube cups.
Look calmly and carefully what prevents this at each element.
For instance:
Does the fork makes contact with the bottom of the headtube?
Preventing the bottom bearings to be pressed in.
Maybe you need to put a crown, or the bearings has not the correct height.
Is the dust seal making contact with the frame?
Preventing the top bearings to be pressed.
Add some washers under the dust seal.
Does the top cap makes contact with the steerer tube(cut too long) or the star nut or compression nut?
Preventing the stem/spacers to press on the dust seal.
Add a 5mm or more spacer on top of the stem to test.
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Thank you! Spacer on top of stem wasn't big enough to preload it. Sorted now thanks for your help.