today first parts of my sram force Etap has atrived...
That is an event in itself. Getting components right now is a pain.
Where did you get them from ?
HI carbonazza, I see you're from Belgium. They still have some groupsets at futurumshop. But they don't have Shimano anymore...
Got my parts from a local bike Dealer to a very competitive Price :)
Didn‘t expected to get it so fast
Does anyone have a list of torque specs for the VB-R-168? I’ve asked but received limited information. Thanks!
Do ya'll think the VB-R-186 will be comfy enough for endurance rides? Weekly 50 milers? I'm not very aware on what makes a frame more comfortable. Aspects like changing the seat to handlebar angle seem to be applicable to all frames.
Update: frame has been shipped today
order placed on 18/02/2021
app. 2 month from order date inc. customized painting
shipped wiht dpd expected arrival in 2 weeks
:) :)
today frame and wheels arrived,
packaging very good
quality also looks goog
the thru axle is Torx 40 which i find not very practically,
especially on tour i don't have iht with me,
but easy to change :)
Hi, how do you lead the cables from the fork and rear brake through the Headset?
the cable from the front brake comes out of the fork on the right side and has to go to the left side,
if i lead the rearbrake on the left side of the fork it scratches when i turn the handlebar
any idea or picture how it works best?
thanks a for an help
added a picture which i think should work best
Hi, how do you lead the cables from the fork and rear brake through the Headset?
the cable from the front brake comes out of the fork on the right side and has to go to the left side,
if i lead the rearbrake on the left side of the fork it scratches when i turn the handlebar
any idea or picture how it works best?
thanks a for an help
added a picture which i think should work best
finished the Bild today
everything fits perfekt, quality of the Painting is top
used a sram force Etap Got it from my local bike dealer, 1 month delivery shorter than the frame
torx for the axle is 40 sorry for the confusion,
hope i can fo for a first ride tomorrow
finished the Bild today
everything fits perfekt, quality of the Painting is top
used a sram force Etap Got it from my local bike dealer, 1 month delivery shorter than the frame
torx for the axle is 40 sorry for the confusion,
hope i can fo for a first ride tomorrow
I'm in the process of buying a frameset VB-R-168. Still some questions need to be answered before I can pull the trigger though.
Chris isn't very clear on the possibility of a different handlebar setup. My wife needs a 70mm stem so all Velobuild options are out. I've been eyeing the Canyon H31 ergocockpit (70mm/380mm). Difference in numbers which worries me are 1-1/2' headset spec on Velobuild site and 1-1/4' fork shaft diameter on the Canyon part.
If this won't be a match, does anyone know which integrated handlebar (or seperate stem/bar system) would actually fit properly?
Theoretically, you could take a FSA NS ACR stem and matching FSA ACR handlebars,
then you have a normal stem handlebar combo.
https://www.bike24.com/p2367619.html
https://www.bike24.com/p2422380.html
i realy love the handlebar from velobuild,Of course this would be my first solution, it looks great and I hear good things about it. But she is tiny. Smallest frame (size 49) and 70mm stem length is perfect in terms of stack and reach. Next problem was almost all integrated cockpits are a minimum of 80mm.
what about taking a smaller frame and a 90mm stem,
depending on the stack/ arm length of your wife this could fit
I'm sure you thought about moving the saddle to the front with the 80mm?Well first of all I love the idea, thank you for thinking with me! However she came fresh from a bike fitting session which put the cleats in the right place for best power transfer and so these settings and the stack and reach numbers are what we have to go with. Just one small piece of the puzzle left: a compatible stem/handlebar :).
i have an ergon saddle with approximately 3cm space, that would be enough to compensate, maybe not so good for her knees
in combination with moving the cleats on the shoes i'm sure you get 10mm out
Well first of all I love the idea, thank you for thinking with me! However she came fresh from a bike fitting session which put the cleats in the right place for best power transfer and so these settings and the stack and reach numbers are what we have to go with. Just one small piece of the puzzle left: a compatible stem/handlebar :).
Have you asked Velobuild if they can do a "custom" cockpit with the dimensions you requested? Maybe they can to more sizes then are actually on the website.Unfortunately Chris told me the website sizes are the only ones available.
Unfortunately Chris told me the website sizes are the only ones available.
For the ACR combo I'll have to change the headset or am I wrong there?
finished the Bild today
everything fits perfekt, quality of the Painting is top
used a sram force Etap Got it from my local bike dealer, 1 month delivery shorter than the frame
torx for the axle is 40 sorry for the confusion,
hope i can fo for a first ride tomorrow
After the first rides incl. climbs one tip from my side
the handlebar is curved to the front, more than expected after the pictures,
would recommand to take 2 cm shorter stem
Received my frame yesterday. Darker than it's supposed to be but it's lighter than the photo shows, depending on the angle.
Think it would look good in direct sunlight though. Is this the purple/red chameleon?
...
I’m doing a (almost) full Ali build, and didn’t expect the frame to be the last thing to be received.
I have had the exactly same experience. I have been told a few times it would be shipped a week or so ago. The first delay was due to handlebars not being available. Next they have said the frame needed to be repainted and they were still doing that. No tracking numbers just yet. Im in the same boat. All my components have arrived, just need frame now. Fingers crossed :)
Similar experience. My order took 3 months and 1 week from order being placed to receiving it and the delay I was told (in addition to Lunar new year) was due to the unusual size of the bars. Also experienced that the tracking number I was given didn't seem to be updating for a number of days after it was created to the point where I also asked if the the package had actually been shipped.
Working on the build now and it's going relatively smoothly. Managed to figure out the internal cabling without too much issue. Only trouble I ran into last night related to the frame was that the bolts on the fork where the caliper screws into seemed to have some hardened residue on the inside which made mounting the bolts a bit hard. To the point where I was questioning whether they choose a different size other than the standard whatever that is but eventually with a bit of force they went in.
When I was reading that the back brake mounts could take a 160 rotor I thought this meant without the adapter, as in the caliper mounted directly to the frame as I've seen this before but maybe only for 140? Had to mount it with the adapter like my previous frame.
Frame looks really good!
It looks your installing Di2 if I'm looking at the photo properly.
Where and how are you installing the battery?
Your build looks incredible! I went with the handlebar junction so hopefully all fits well. I will post photos once I’ve received the frame set. I have purchased a different set of integrated bars because I was a little bit worried about the single bolt wedge system used in the bars included however I’m not sure which set I’ll use.
Crazy awesome build man! Hopefully will get my frame in the beginning of next week. What size frame did you get?
Anything clamping on carbon: incrementally increase torque up to max. The goal is to make sure it’s tight. You may not need to go up to max torque for that.
On my seatpost, for example, I’m around 4Nm with some carbon paste on the post (take a look at the recent canyon aeroad threads of why perhaps that’s not always a good idea, depending on the design). Go very easy on bottle cages / computer mounts (rivnuts in carbon). Use loctite so that you can stay under 2Nm without risking losing a bottle cage mid ride :-)
Any clamp with multiple bolts: make sure to tighten both bolts evenly and gradually.
Otherwise, I follow these torque specs: https://www.bikeride.com/torque-specifications/
You got it. I shoved the battery and wireless transmitter both in the seatpost without issue. The cockpit is so clean that my junction box sticks out like a sore thumb now. In retrospect I would have spend the extra money for an internal handlebar junction A.
Build is 97% complete as I'm just missing a couple of parts but took it for my first 70k ride this am! Felt awesome. Definitely a better fit for me personally. The bars weren't as flexible as I thought although they aren't suuper stiff. I also liked the curved shape of them and wasn't sure about them at first. Climbs well, very responsive. Overall very happy so far.
Lovely build! I like the personalization you did!
What size tires have you fitted?
You got it. I shoved the battery and wireless transmitter both in the seatpost without issue. The cockpit is so clean that my junction box sticks out like a sore thumb now. In retrospect I would have spend the extra money for an internal handlebar junction A.
Build is 97% complete as I'm just missing a couple of parts but took it for my first 70k ride this am! Felt awesome. Definitely a better fit for me personally. The bars weren't as flexible as I thought although they aren't suuper stiff. I also liked the curved shape of them and wasn't sure about them at first. Climbs well, very responsive. Overall very happy so far.
When I was reading that the back brake mounts could take a 160 rotor I thought this meant without the adapter, as in the caliper mounted directly to the frame as I've seen this before but maybe only for 140? Had to mount it with the adapter like my previous frame.
Did you use the SM-MA-R160D adapter? https://si.shimano.com/pdfs/si/SI-8NU0A-001-00-ENG.pdf
Wondering whether I should use a 140mm rotor or an adapter.
Did you use the SM-MA-R160D adapter? https://si.shimano.com/pdfs/si/SI-8NU0A-001-00-ENG.pdf
Wondering whether I should use a 140mm rotor or an adapter.
Thanks! I'm on 28 size tires. The back is currently set up tubeless while I had to put a tube in the front due to a cut that has outlasted its repair. Will be fitting on new Schwalbe Pro One Evo setup tubeless for back in front soon. I think the frame says it can handle up to a 32 tire and it's clear there is ample room now.
Thats great news! I was planning on fittings as big a tire as the frame would allow.
What out-front mount are you using for your Wahoo?
Last night I finally mounted a new pair of Schwalbe Pro One tubeless after a visit to the compressor at my local gas station. They seem to run more narrow than the previous generation Pro One's I had on prior but they may just need some more air and to get settled better.
The mount I got is the one below. I like it because it has one long cut out for the bolts instead of two which may give you more options in terms of how far forward or backward you want to mount it. Downside is that if you don't plan on using the Garmin/light mount below which is on the heavier side, you may not have anything to screw the computer mount top piece above, unless I'm missing something as the mount does come with a number of pieces.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001849052644.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.4e034c4d4FiaD8
I am looking for a jig to cut the steerer tube. Anybody knows the diameter of the tube? Tx!
Thanks for the feedback - I actually need a light mount, so its perfect.
About the tires - my experience is that old tires balloon 1-2mm over time from holding pressure over a couple of months. So it sounds very normal.
I'm currently planning on running two wheelsets. One LB WR45 wheelset with 30c Pro Ones for the road, and one wheelset with 33c cyclocross tires for the beaten path. It looks like the cutout in the seattube is the limiting factor in the back. How about the fork? Do you think such a tire could clear?
There are some nice specialty jigs out there, but, unless you're cutting steerer tubes on multiple bikes multiple times, it was difficult to justify the price. I had one of these in.my tool box so I tried it.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00XAK72Q2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_7RYW9ET805XHCBWYMMYN
Worked fine. Probably took a bit longer to cut, but after some sanding and clear nail polish, it looks great.
Ah good to know about the tires widening a bit more over time. My older 28c were used and were quite a bit wider than the new 28c I mounted (which already have a cut in the sidewall I'm not sure I'll be able to fix :( )
Here are some photos of the clearance on the fork and back. Mounting 33c cx tires sound really interesting. Would love to see photos once you get that set up.
Build is 97% complete as I'm just missing a couple of parts but took it for my first 70k ride this am! Felt awesome. Definitely a better fit for me personally. The bars weren't as flexible as I thought although they aren't suuper stiff. I also liked the curved shape of them and wasn't sure about them at first. Climbs well, very responsive. Overall very happy so far.
Nice build! Can I ask what handlebar size is it?
Bummer with the sidewall cut :( - I HATE puncturing brand new tires. Feels like such a waste.
The pictures show some pretty damn decent clearance I have to say. I have seen a Tarmac SL7 mounted with tires that measure 34mm and this looks every bit as capable. I am thinking about buying a set of Vittoria Terreno Zero 32c since they are very puncture resistant and still works well on the tarmac. Should be great as a winter wheelset too.
I will definitely show the result here.
Thanks! 400mm x 90mm bars
Someone on this forum pointed out that the bars seem to flare up quite a bit extending the reach more than they expected. I ordered a shorter stem length anyway without knowing this and have been happy with the fit. Bars have been pretty stiff so far and not terrible to wire internally.
Intrigued about the ability to put thicker cx/gravel like tires on this frame!+1
... with Pillar 1420 spokes...
+1
BTW, It's the first time I buy a bike in parts and I'm planning to have it mounted in a bike workshop, but I'm not an expert and maybe I'm missing something. Could you help me? That's what I'm looking at:
- Whole SRAM Rival group 140/160 Diameter Disc Brake Rotor
- Elitewheels SLT 50MM * 29MM, RD12 XDR hub (with Pillar 1420 spokes?)
- Continental GP5000 25/28mm tyres (not sure, yet)
- Saddle (already bought)
Would you change bottom bracket? Would you change anything?
Any incompatibility, missing thing or simply advice will be appreciated.
I would have a look at: https://roadmeister.cc/. Complete report on building his Velobuild bike, and includes his shopping list.
Few questions from my side:
1. Considered tubeless? I'm planning to go for the pro-one TLE from Schwalbe.
2. I would add foam liners to prevent rattling from the brake lines
3. I think you will need an adapter (FM 160>140) to fit the 140mm disc
4. Make sure to match mounting system of the discs to the rims (either centerlock or 6 bolt)
5. Bottle cages, rim tape, bar tape, tubeless valves ...
6. Start looking for the rival set soon, as all the Sram parts are really hard to find.
And finally, why not build it yourself, really great to do and will make maintenance a lot easier!
I've asked for Rival to local retailers and no stock till 2022. It's crazy...
I bought Rival Etap online not to long ago - it seems like delivery times are between 2-3 months. So not 2022. More like August-September.
I've asked for Rival to local retailers and no stock till 2022. It's crazy...
...
3. I think you will need an adapter (FM 160>140) to fit the 140mm disc
...
Where did you buy it?
I live in Denmark and bought from r2-bike based in Germany.Thanks I'll order there, too. Did you buy one of the SRAM bottom bracket options? I'm a bit lost with some parts of the bike and its compatibility...
https://r2-bike.com/sram-rival-axs-road-bike-group__Groupsets
the internal routing for the rear break will work with the alligator cable housing, just insert the cable befor the bottom bracket, than it's very easy and enough place
the fork definitly will not work as the normal breaking cables (Hydraulic) just fits in
handlebar and stem depends what you have, if you go for internal cable routing you need a stem with a hole to get the cables out
you need a big cover cap (hope thats the right definition in english)
if you want i can measure it up today evening
Hey Zoc,
I also have a few questions and see you already have a VB-R-168 if you wouldn't mind helping :)
Does the seat post come with a rubber cover that sits over the post and frame to stop any dirt/liquid seeping in to the seat tube?
Do you know what the offset is on the seat post that is supplied or if they have the option of a 0mm offset seat post? Also on the seat post, does it come with fixings for standard 7mm x 7mm saddle rails and 7mm x 9mm oval saddle rails?
Like Tiny_pina I'm also planning on building this frame with mechanical disc brakes (105 shifters with TRP HY/RD callipers - I already use these on my current bike and will just be moving all parts over to the new frame). Can you definitely not use the internal cable routing with mechanical discs through the forks? I wonder if Velobuild would be able to increase the diameter of the hole to accommodate a larger outer cable?
I ordered a VB-R-168 frame back in May, apparently it has been painted and they're just waiting for the bar (integrated 420/100) but should be ready to ship next week. I got a message about shipping suggesting to use XBD-DPD as EMS is not working at the moment, and also cost an extra 60 USD. Has anyone else received something similar? What's the difference between the two methods? This is shipping to the UK.
Thanks
Regarding the handlebar please be aware that it is curved,
depends how sensitive you are to this, i calculated a 440/120 which fits perfect next to the stem,
but if i grab it next to the breaks its 2-3 cm to long due to the curve
you can see it on the picture i added
That is a little strange, I ordered mine on April 17th and mine is apparently still being painted according to Chris...
I chose to use XDB shipping anyhow as this guarantees I won't need to pay additional customs fees. I used the same for my wheels and these took two weeks to arrive once they were shipped. I am not sure if the customs part applies to UK since Brexit, I live in The Netherlands and there it worked out just fine.
Regarding the handlebar please be aware that it is curved,
depends how sensitive you are to this, i calculated a 440/120 which fits perfect next to the stem,
but if i grab it next to the breaks its 2-3 cm to long due to the curve
you can see it on the picture i added
That is a little strange, I ordered mine on April 17th and mine is apparently still being painted according to Chris...
I chose to use XDB shipping anyhow as this guarantees I won't need to pay additional customs fees. I used the same for my wheels and these took two weeks to arrive once they were shipped. I am not sure if the customs part applies to UK since Brexit, I live in The Netherlands and there it worked out just fine.
Lately they are all over the place with deadlines and deliveries mistakes (from other forums' users).
I returned a vbr099 back in February, been waiting for a 168 since then, which clearly is not a great customer service. If I'm lucky, I'll receive it by the end of the month, and that'll make it a 4.5 months wait. I understand there were some handlebars shortages which Chris let me know of, but still, my 56cm vbr168 frame 'has been' in the painting shop for 4-5 weeks now ;D oh well
PS: when I previously ordered my vbr099 I also used XDB to get it to the UK, for the pre-paid import duties included in the cost. Hope that still applies now after brexit
Why did you return the VBR099? I just got informed by Chris that mine is painted as well, and that he is indeed waiting for the handlebars.
It had a a play in headset which I couldn't seem to be able to remove, so after a while I disassembled the bike, packed it and sent it back for a replacement. Loads of hours and some cash wasted in parts and return shipping, but I hope the vbr168 will be worth it
I suppose we are both waiting for the handlebars, even though to me he said that my frame is being painted (since the second week of may :-X) and should be ready by next week (same as your handlebar). Really hope there won't be any more delays
From the ones already built and tried, any more feedbacks and pics?? ;D
It had a a play in headset which I couldn't seem to be able to remove, so after a while I disassembled the bike, packed it and sent it back for a replacement. Loads of hours and some cash wasted in parts and return shipping, but I hope the vbr168 will be worth it
I suppose we are both waiting for the handlebars, even though to me he said that my frame is being painted (since the second week of may :-X) and should be ready by next week (same as your handlebar). Really hope there won't be any more delays
From the ones already built and tried, any more feedbacks and pics?? ;D
Just to add information on how my delivery is going for people to compare.
Ordered a size 58 painted on May 17th.
According to Chris:
Frame is painted, but there is a delay on the handlebar 420/110. He expects to have the handlebar in 10 days and then ship the package soon thereafter.
Is this issue unheard of? Hows the quality of these frames, have a lot of people had to return it? Im always weary of frames that have to be sent back. Whst part of the headset had play?
Oh okay so it was more vertical play rather than lateral play? It wouldnt be good to be wanting to turn and the wheel doesn't turn lol. What i meant by unheard of is out of how many frames bought (or so youve seen) has this problem been encountered
I had the same issue with my R11, but quickly fixed it with a few micro spacers thanks to your post.
Edit: I don’t actually think this is an issue with the frame design/production. It seems logical (in retrospect) that you need some spacers with an integrated headset design like this.
Does anyone have an update from Chris on their frame?
Mine was supposed to be ready this week, but it seems like there'll be more delays as I didn't receive an update
I just installed the tubeless tire, added the tire sealant, and was pumping it up when the wheel sidewall ruptured at around 60psi. Has anyone seen this before?The red tape was not intended for tubeless, you need a tubless rim tape
The installation was straightforward otherwise. I did use a tire lever for the last bit, but that was over the presta valve (opposite side of this photo). Is there something I could have done to cause this? I'm using a floor pump (Topeak), not an air compressor, and my pumping wasn't excessive, so I don't think the pressure gauge could have been far off.
Hopefully I can get a replacement though I am a bit concerned about the safety now...
Anybody who heard from Chris?
Anybody who heard from Chris?Just keep reminding him/them, they will get back to you eventually.
Hello
Yes ,we will finish bar weekend and send out the order
Chris
My frame and bars were shipped last Thursday, it was the 420/100 bars so I think it was slightly delayed being sent out. Shipping through XBD/DPD, on the website it says 5-10 days but what's other peoples experience with delivery timeframes? I'm assuming longer as the DPD tracking number says they have the details but not the package.
It's the last piece to arrive, I've got everything else waiting to built up.
Congrats! Lucky you :). It's weird though, I ordered mine on April 17th (so almost two weeks before you did) also with 420/100 bars and mine is not shipped yet.... :o. It's good to hear that they are shipping orders though!
I'm reading on other forums that people that ordered later got the frame shipped earlier for some reason, bit all over the place. As Chris originally put it, mine was meant to be ready by the end of March and delayed ever since, which is frankly ridicolous. Who knows what they're up to, but for sure I'll watch myself from recommending Velobuild for customer service, aside from Chris being overall responsive ;D
Does anyone know of other websites/companies where the vbr168 is sold, even under other name, in a similar fashion of the vbr099/Workswell WCB-R-268 Disc / Tantan ttx21?
I'm not sure if I should change the size I ordered. I'm 171 cm tall and 80cm inseam.
Velobuild recommend me size 52 and 400/90 handlebar.
Specialized size calculator recommend me 54 size that comes with 420/100 handlebar.
What size would you choose?
I'm planning to swap the headset for a FSA ACR headset and put a stem and bar of my choice on (probably not an integrated cockpit because I would need 80mm)Sounds like there are a few of us in the same boat. I'm 170cm with 80cm inseam and am debating between the 49 and the 52 VB-R-168. Both of which I would get with a 400/90 bar stem combo.
I prefer the reach of the 49 but the stack is super low and I don't think it would be very comfortable, so will most likely opt for the 52 if I choose the 168 and hope it doesn't feel too stretched out. If only they did an 80mm stem option then the 52 would be perfect!
I much prefer the look of the 168, but the reach and stack numbers of the VB-R-099 in a 49 size would actually fit me better than either the 49 or 52cm 168. The rational choice would be the VB-R-099 in a 49, just a shame that the 168 is a nicer looking bike in my opinion.
Is anyone able to confirm the following figures which will help determine overall reach for both the VB-R-099 and VB-R-168.
- What is the seat-post offset on both frames (from the pics the 099 looks to have more of an offset than the 168)
- Both bars look to have a forward sweep (similar to the Vision Metron 5D bars), are the sweeps the same for both bars or are they different to each other i.e. is the reach longer on the 099 bars vs the 168?
- I'm also curious to know if the bar sweep is more of an illusion if that makes sense, in that the reach is the same as a normal 'straight' bar, and that the only thing that is different is the space around where the hoods sit
I'm planning to swap the headset for a FSA ACR headset and put a stem and bar of my choice on (probably not an integrated cockpit because I would need 80mm)
Here's my build! Just a plain black matte because I was already over budget with the 105 R7020 groupset :) It's my first ever build but because of all the redos from self-inflicted errors it feels like I've built three bikes already. Rides great (especially compared to the commuter bike it replaced) though I think the headset bearings are loose.
(https://i.imgur.com/wu1oOkP.jpg)
Great resources:
- All of you here
- Niels and his blog: https://roadmeister.cc (https://roadmeister.cc)
- Free To Cycle YouTube channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCyyUYmKcskySTZh6Cf2blhg (https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCyyUYmKcskySTZh6Cf2blhg)
- GCN & Park Tool YouTube videos.
Chris + Velobuild were great at being responsive and answering questions (pre & post sale), but there were a few issues:
- I think we'd all appreciate timeline transparency and realistic estimates. Waiting for months is a part of the process, but they don't have to obscure what's going on.
- My VB wheels ruptured dangerously. I've since purchased ICAN wheels.
- Chris & VB have gone radio silent after my VB wheels ruptured.
- The weight of the frame was incorrect. For a size 52/S, it's actually 1100g for the frame, 473g for the fork, and 244g for the seat post. They had said: "Frame 168 M about 1000g ,fork 400g ,seat post 180g ."
I think the headset bearings are looseFor one potential solution, search the forum for “micro spacers”. They create space for the spacers to compress the bearings before hitting the frame.
Could you elaborate on the issues you faced when building it up?
If you don't mind me asking, how tall are you and what width bar/length of stem did you go for? Does it feel comfortable to ride, not too stretched out?
Super interested to hear how you get on with this! Have you already got your frame and are in the process of building or are you waiting for your order?Still waiting for the order to ship.
I've just had a quick look and the official FSA ACR stems come in as short as 70mm so this could be an option (https://shop.fullspeedahead.com/en/type/stems/stems/road-gravel/ns-acr-stem (https://shop.fullspeedahead.com/en/type/stems/stems/road-gravel/ns-acr-stem)). If you buy the full ACR set-up (headset, stem and bar) it would cost almost as much as the frame ::)
Here's my build! Just a plain black matte because I was already over budget with the 105 R7020 groupset :) It's my first ever build but because of all the redos from self-inflicted errors it feels like I've built three bikes already. Rides great (especially compared to the commuter bike it replaced) though I think the headset bearings are loose.
(https://i.imgur.com/wu1oOkP.jpg)
Great resources:
- All of you here
- Niels and his blog: https://roadmeister.cc (https://roadmeister.cc)
- Free To Cycle YouTube channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCyyUYmKcskySTZh6Cf2blhg (https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCyyUYmKcskySTZh6Cf2blhg)
- GCN & Park Tool YouTube videos.
Chris + Velobuild were great at being responsive and answering questions (pre & post sale), but there were a few issues:
- I think we'd all appreciate timeline transparency and realistic estimates. Waiting for months is a part of the process, but they don't have to obscure what's going on.
- My VB wheels ruptured dangerously. I've since purchased ICAN wheels.
- Chris & VB have gone radio silent after my VB wheels ruptured.
- The weight of the frame was incorrect. For a size 52/S, it's actually 1100g for the frame, 473g for the fork, and 244g for the seat post. They had said: "Frame 168 M about 1000g ,fork 400g ,seat post 180g ."
Please please please dont clamp the seat tube! Lol
How much does the bike weigh with pedals? I habe the dengfu r12 with force etap and farsports 50 classics, i think its 19.2 with pedals. Wheels were 1650g so that attributes a bit of extra weight. that and a 61 cm frame
i build frame size 58
sram force etap disc
wheels from velobuild
http://www.velobuild.com/products/road-amp-cyclocross-wheelset-disc-brake-carbon-deep-38mm-width-23-25mm
total 18.5 lbs or 8.4 kg
Is the seat tube that fragile? You're referring to the bike stand clamp, right? Is it a convention not to? It's a rubber grip.
Just weighed it with everything but the bottle cage holders and it's exactly 19.0 lbs. Not as light as I had hoped, but I'm on a full 105 groupset (including the pedals) and the wheels are 1681g.
While I'm not obsessed with reducing weight, out of curiosity, I've been meaning to do an analysis of what upgrades would have the best ROI for weight reduction. Anyone want to fill me in? How much does ultegra or dura-ace / di2 shave off?
Ultregra and Dura-Ace are squarely in the realm of diminishing gains
Marginal performance improvement and weight savings / dollar
Typical cheaper weight savings areas would be bars and seatpost, but that's not possible with the 168 (I suppose you could cut some excess seatpost for free...)
Tires are a good place to save some weight, especially since they are a consumable part that will need to be replaced anyways.
Depending on your current saddle, that is another cheap place to save weight (especially with Chiner parts)
If you are including pedal weight, and if you don't mind speedplay, there are light Chinese Speedplay compatible titanium pedals out there.
Finally wheels and spokes. But this is where diminishing returns start kicking in, even with Chiner parts
As I was trying to investigate my bearings issue, I discovered that my preload bolt hasn't been correctly clamping / compressing the headset!
(https://i.imgur.com/YebSz2G.jpg?1)
If I keep tightening the preload bolt, it pulls completely out of the fork with the expansion contraption. The expansion contraption doesn't seem to be expanding properly to secure itself. Because everything is a pretty snug fit, it didn't come apart on me while riding it.
Any ideas?
I treat my bikes with care, id assume seat tubes arent meant to be clamped, probably not what the manuf made it for. Rubber definitely probably helps but still, ill always use a seatpost.
If you really want to be a stickler about it then clamping at the seatpost isnt isn't good idea either. Both the seatpost and the seat tube have a layup that promotes stiffness vertically. Clamping either of them can cause damage while working on the bike. I would have to assume if anything, clamping at the seat tube would be better if theseat post was inside to give it extra rigidity where you clamp.
On a carbon fiber frame you either want a stand with hanging hooks or the best option is to use one with where you remove the front wheel and the frame rests on the bottom bracket like this one from feedback Sports
i build frame size 58
sram force etap disc
wheels from velobuild
http://www.velobuild.com/products/road-amp-cyclocross-wheelset-disc-brake-carbon-deep-38mm-width-23-25mm
total 18.5 lbs or 8.4 kg
I never could get that compression plug to work. I swapped it out for this one. No problem with slipping since.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/274059545505
So I've started the build this weekend and have a couple of questions. How did you route and secure the gear cable to the FD? The bend from the down tube over the BB to the cable exit is quite tight and there doesn't seem to be anywhere to clip/secure the outer cable to the exit grommet.
Also I have a slightly different handlebar to you guys. Mine has two stem bolts that at the back, however, I cant seem to tighten them together (similar to this handlebar setup at 18:27 [url] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IQWYPxGicjU] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IQWYPxGicjU][url] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IQWYPxGicjU (http://[url=https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IQWYPxGicjU)[/url]. When positioned on the stem the two parts don't engage fully so I can't tighten against the stem.
So I've started the build this weekend and have a couple of questions. How did you route and secure the gear cable to the FD? The bend from the down tube over the BB to the cable exit is quite tight and there doesn't seem to be anywhere to clip/secure the outer cable to the exit grommet.
Also I have a slightly different handlebar to you guys. Mine has two stem bolts that at the back, however, I cant seem to tighten them together (similar to this handlebar setup at 18:27 [url=https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IQWYPxGicjU] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IQWYPxGicjU][url] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IQWYPxGicjU] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IQWYPxGicjU] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IQWYPxGicjU][url] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IQWYPxGicjU (http://[url=https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IQWYPxGicjU)[/url]. When positioned on the stem the two parts don't engage fully so I can't tighten against the stem.
Are you using housing for the shifter cable? I didn't do that at first, but you really have to. Once I added compressionless housing to the cable (including in the internal routing, but right before the exit hole), it all was pretty straightforward. There wasn't a need to clip/secure the outer cable to the exit grommet since it's secured to the FD.
No idea about the handlebar, but I find it funny that we have different ones.
I have the same handlebars. It is essentially a nut and bolt so you need to put a hex head in one side while you tighten the other side.
Mine have been fine. Also make sure you put carbon paste on the steerer where the stem sits.
In my (limited) experience with carbon handlebars and stems: replace all (metal) hardware. I couldn’t get my Yoeleo H9 handlebar to stay out (carbon paste and loctite in all the right places). Got some new M5x20mm bolts at the hardware store and hasn’t budged since (still using 243 loctite of course).
PS: since got these https://a.aliexpress.com/_mNXMRTr
Only took about 8 days from the order until it arrived at my door in Canada.
i run Pirelli 28 mm
and there is still enough space 32mm should be no problem
Another question about the FD routing, did you route the cable above the bottom bracket or under and back up? There's no routing guides for this like I've seen on other frames.
Just got back from my first 50-miler with climbs on the R-186. It rides great, and someone even asked if it was a Tarmac. At a cafe, another person told me that Barry Bonds (former baseball player) rides the same bike; I just checked him up and he has a Tarmac SL7.
I did have issues with my FD and RD, which didn't appear during my short daily commutes. I had trouble shifting into my large chainring, and my four larger cogs had issues. Is it normal to require a tune up so early on or did I do something fundamentally wrong? I'm guessing that it's too early for cable stretching so perhaps I did not tie the fasteners for the cables sufficiently and they've slipped ever so slightly?
Grats on the ride. Did you have brake rub at all? My r12 has the slightest rub and im a perfectionist, im probably losing a 50th of a watt but i can see the screws are slightly misaligned and tilted by maybe 1mm in relation to the rotor. Can you relate on your frame?
Anyone else waiting for the frame to be shipped as it is still waiting for the handlebar? Got any update?
I did have issues with my FD and RD, which didn't appear during my short daily commutes. I had trouble shifting into my large chainring, and my four larger cogs had issues. Is it normal to require a tune up so early on or did I do something fundamentally wrong? I'm guessing that it's too early for cable stretching so perhaps I did not tie the fasteners for the cables sufficiently and they've slipped ever so slightly?
There's a very slight rub once per revolution on both wheels. From videos I've watched on alignment, they appear to be within tolerance.
On the R-186, the brake mount holes are oversized. I imagine that's to fit varying sizes & brands of disc brakes. I have been frustrated by a slight 1mm movement as I torque up the screws which is the root cause of this chafing, but I think if I take another stab at it, I can get it perfect. One other detail is that as the rotor spins, I observe it getting closer and further from the brake pads. I'm wondering if there's an issue with the alignment of the disc rotor, rotor mount, wheel, or center lock.
Has anyone tried to fit an SL7 silicon seat post cover to a 168? Something like this: https://www.lordgunbicycles.co.uk/specialized-tarmac-my2018-seatpost-clamp-cover (https://www.lordgunbicycles.co.uk/specialized-tarmac-my2018-seatpost-clamp-cover). I know the 168 doesn't come with one and I'd like to have a bit more protection from water if possible.
Placed my order for a VB-R-168 on Friday last week. I ordered the 52cm Frame with a 400/90mm bar stem combo and had confirmation from Chris before ordering that both the frame and bar was in stock.
I'm 170cm tall and according to the Specialized SL7 size chart I'm right in the middle of the 52cm and 54cm frame sizes so decided to go for the smaller option.
I am a cm shorter than you, with 77cm inseam. The Specialized sizing tool and chart suggested to go for size 52, and instead, I've ordered the size 49 with a 400/90 bar.
I used my current bike as my sizing reference. It's a 20er folding bike, but I've installed a drop bar on it. I've played around with the stem lengths, handlebar heights, and brifter angles, to find the right geometry for me. From those experiments, I've concluded that the horizontal distance between the seatpost and the horizontal part of the handlebar, center-to-center, is around 60cm. Now, the shortest stem they have for the integrated bars is 90cm. 600 - 90 = 510. That's the size 49's effective top-tube dimension, give or take.
There's also a note in this thread that their integrated bar is curved forward. I assume that the curvature is already factored in the 80mm reach of the handlebar, but if it's not, then I'd have a minimum additional stretch. Other than that, the seatpost has a setback (2cm?). If the frame is indeed too small, I can move the saddle back and it will then have the ideal effective seat tube angle.
Also, I'd probably get an option to slam it, if my back allows.
Let's see if indeed I've ordered the right size when I finished the build.
The problem is, although I ordered it as a plain frameset, it's still waiting for the 400/90. In the last contact with them, they said that they will send it out at the beginning of this week.
I have ordered the SL7 cover, but have not yet received the frame. Once I have the frame I can confirm if it fits or not.
Amazing, would be great to hear if it does!
Out of interest where did you order from?
I've been debating the exact same issue for the last few weeks and have been going round in circles over the frame size.
Strange that you've been waiting for the bars as Chris said they were in stock, hope they actually are :).
I ordered from this shop in The Netherlands (where I live :) ). https://www.stouwdam.nl/en/specialized-stp-my21-tarmac-sl7-seatpost-wedge-513
When did you get the info? I asked it last Saturday (GMT+7), and they said that the bar will be ready starting this week or something.
Directly from Chris via e-mail, he confirmed on Thursday 1st July that both the 168 frame in a 52cm size and the bar in 400/90mm were both in stock, as I wanted to make sure before I confirmed the order.
Seatpost cover specialized Tarmac
does this work?
don't think so, as the bolt to fix the seatpost at the tarmac is on the upside therefor the cover has a small nipple which fits in the bolt
the VB-R 168 has the bolt below the top tube
I'm having some problems briefing VeloBuild on the paint scheme of my frame, can someone verify if what I'm trying to explain to them is correct?
I would like a Chameleon paint job with three different colours and a gloss finish. My very basic understanding of a chameleon paint job is that you overlay one layer of paint on top of the other, and at certain angles/in certain light of of the colours becomes more prominent?
I am using this for reference which I think is someone's frame on here that is currently being shipped? http://www.velobuild.com/products/vb-r-168-light-weight-carbon-road-bike-frameset-glossy-green-chameleon-fading-paint (http://www.velobuild.com/products/vb-r-168-light-weight-carbon-road-bike-frameset-glossy-green-chameleon-fading-paint)
The frame in the link above looks mostly black (primary colour) and green (secondary colour), then it has a dark purple (accent colour) at certain angles.
I would like to copy this style for my frame, with the colours being black (primary colour) and dark purple (secondary colour). My accent colour will then be Giro d'Italia pink, which should only show at certain angles in the same way the purple does in the reference frame.
My brief is not clear to VeloBuild (probably my fault), and they are asking which areas of the frame I would like painting in each colour. Is the answer not just all of it? As I don't want just the down tube in black, and the just the top tube in purple for example.
I'm having some problems briefing VeloBuild on the paint scheme of my frame, can someone verify if what I'm trying to explain to them is correct?
I would like a Chameleon paint job with three different colours and a gloss finish. My very basic understanding of a chameleon paint job is that you overlay one layer of paint on top of the other, and at certain angles/in certain light of of the colours becomes more prominent?
I am using this for reference which I think is someone's frame on here that is currently being shipped? http://www.velobuild.com/products/vb-r-168-light-weight-carbon-road-bike-frameset-glossy-green-chameleon-fading-paint (http://www.velobuild.com/products/vb-r-168-light-weight-carbon-road-bike-frameset-glossy-green-chameleon-fading-paint)
The frame in the link above looks mostly black (primary colour) and green (secondary colour), then it has a dark purple (accent colour) at certain angles.
I would like to copy this style for my frame, with the colours being black (primary colour) and dark purple (secondary colour). My accent colour will then be Giro d'Italia pink, which should only show at certain angles in the same way the purple does in the reference frame.
My brief is not clear to VeloBuild (probably my fault), and they are asking which areas of the frame I would like painting in each colour. Is the answer not just all of it? As I don't want just the down tube in black, and the just the top tube in purple for example.
i think there is a mistake
chameleon is not achieved by mixing two colours or three
Good choice ;). That is actually the frame which is on it's way to me. My paint job was put together as follows, I asked Chris to paint the frame as much as possible like:
(https://www.2wielerspecialist.nl/uploads/9/3/2/9/93297632/94920-03-tarmac-sl7-sw-etap-grntnt-spctflr-chrm-hero_orig.jpeg)
Which translated to the following mockup made by Chris:
(https://i.ibb.co/HF3YXT5/Jan-168.png) (https://ibb.co/kHv0M2N)
Mine is made up out of two colours: gloss black and gloss green chameleon. The gloss green chameleon is green / purple based on the angle. I had to pay for 4 colours (1 for gloss black, 3 for gloss green chameleon).
Good choice ;). That is actually the frame which is on it's way to me. My paint job was put together as follows, I asked Chris to paint the frame as much as possible like:
(https://www.2wielerspecialist.nl/uploads/9/3/2/9/93297632/94920-03-tarmac-sl7-sw-etap-grntnt-spctflr-chrm-hero_orig.jpeg)
Which translated to the following mockup made by Chris:
(https://i.ibb.co/HF3YXT5/Jan-168.png) (https://ibb.co/kHv0M2N)
Mine is made up out of two colours: gloss black and gloss green chameleon. The gloss green chameleon is green / purple based on the angle. I had to pay for 4 colours (1 for gloss black, 3 for gloss green chameleon).
Is it possible to ask velobuild to put the same decal, S-works on the frame ??
In other news, it seems that VB bumped their shipping costs. It was $80 and now it is $112 for US, and from $64 or something to $95 to my country. That's pretty steep.
I don't know about the decals, I explicitly asked to only follow the color scheme and not add the decals as I don't want it to be a fake s-works.
I'm a bit stumped with what I'd like now and might go the complete other end of the spectrum, and just get raw carbon with a high gloss clear coat like the Cervelo example below. Would expect this to also be a few grams lighter than a painted frame ::)
Nah, iirc they always put on some sort of finishing coat. Haven't seen a bare frame yet.
Correct, they don't offer a completely raw carbon frame as they are all coated.
In the end I've gone with a very similar paint job to Wijmaar with chameleon purple fading down to gloss black. Should be receiving my mock-up of the paint job later today.
Nice! I will share some better pictures (in daylight :D) once I have received the frame.
I just stumbled upon these pictures on the Velobuild website, really like the look of the Chameleon frame in daylight! (Not so sure about the saddle and the pedals though :-X)
(https://i.ibb.co/CnTLmrH/ce5d7063ef.jpg) (https://ibb.co/MR3dZXC)
(https://i.ibb.co/D9hJ4v7/c63fa21134.jpg) (https://ibb.co/48zqWXj)
Nice! I will share some better pictures (in daylight :D) once I have received the frame.
I just stumbled upon these pictures on the Velobuild website, really like the look of the Chameleon frame in daylight! (Not so sure about the saddle and the pedals though :-X)
Ugh. The more I saw the builds, the more I can't wait for my frame which is... still awaiting shipping.
Been waiting long?Not that long :D . prob it's just me getting impatient (and whinny). It' my first time ordering a frame.
(https://i.ibb.co/CnTLmrH/ce5d7063ef.jpg) (https://ibb.co/MR3dZXC)
(https://i.ibb.co/D9hJ4v7/c63fa21134.jpg) (https://ibb.co/48zqWXj)
Beautiful! Does handlebar include computer mount?
Is anyone running 140mm on front? Looks like I need to use the 160mm adapter..
Edit: nvm my dumb ass probably overlooked the double orientation of the adapter
Ugh. The more I saw the builds, the more I can't wait for my frame which is... still awaiting shipping.Finally. Mine is being shipped just now ;D
Finally. Mine is being shipped just now ;D
Chris just informed me that DPD is not available for shipping to the UK since mid june, and therefore EMS will be used.
Does anyone have experience with it, in terms of shipping time and duties+vat?
Correct, they don't offer a completely raw carbon frame as they are all coated.
In the end I've gone with a very similar paint job to Wijmaar with chameleon purple fading down to gloss black. Should be receiving my mock-up of the paint job later today.
I wanted to custom paint mine and wanted to be able to inspect the carbon, and so made a special request for the raw carbon frame. It was no issue and I even got it super fast. Carbon looks well done as well.
Chris just informed me that DPD is not available for shipping to the UK since mid june, and therefore EMS will be used.
Does anyone have experience with it, in terms of shipping time and duties+vat?
Hi,
What is the weight of the frame with the handle bar and fork ?
It is not shown on velobuild.
Thanks
Hi guys,Yes, there is a small hole in the bottom of the frame.
Question about this frame, do the bottom of the frame, under the bottom bracket,
does it have a smal hole to let the water sip in case some water get into the fram when riding in rain or when washing the bike ?
just at a curiosity, why is everyone picking the 168 over the 177? the 177 is lighter and they almost look identical. is the 168 marketed as aero while the 177 is lightweight? i mean putting the two together they look ALMOST IDENTICAL so im curious what everyones thought is. the geometry numbers are all within .5 degrees and under 10 degrees. stacks 5mm shorter. both come with an integrated bar and the only noticeable difference is the cutout for the rear wheel.
It is aero vs climb (according to Chris) but just marginally so.i do agree, the bike looks identical to an sl7.
Presumably part of the weight gain comes from aero shaped tubes. The seat tube appears narrower from front, with a elongated profile resulting in the cut-out.
The stack is slightly lower, and reach slightly longer for a more aggressive riding position.
The smaller rear triangle contributes to better aerodynamics from airflow passing over the rear wheel.
In the end, marginal aerodynamics are harder to achieve than than marginal weight losses (unless you are already optimal weight for the sport). And let's face it, most of us (not all) who can afford this hobby could always lose a pound or two. Instant watts!
Reality: I kinda liked the look of the 168 a bit more. I was sold when I found out the geometry is exactly the same as the Tarmac SL7. Also, I could put the $50 saved towards a fancy schmancy chameleon Paint job.
just at a curiosity, why is everyone picking the 168 over the 177? the 177 is lighter and they almost look identical. is the 168 marketed as aero while the 177 is lightweight? i mean putting the two together they look ALMOST IDENTICAL so im curious what everyones thought is. the geometry numbers are all within .5 degrees and under 10 degrees. stacks 5mm shorter. both come with an integrated bar and the only noticeable difference is the cutout for the rear wheel.
For me, it's all about the size. From the geo, the XS 177 is about a size up (https://bikeinsights.com/compare?geometries=604d98c2d7c8240017c37232,604f80108f67120017f7cdf6,) of the XS 168, and I am not quite sure about my size yet, and I am being totally safe. My logic is that I can fix a frame that's 'a bit too small' but not with a frame that's 'a bit too big'. And it's good thing that 168 comes with a lowerbetprice.
On the looks department, I personally prefer the 177. I can't resist those sexy Addicts and Filantes.
Did anyone manage to route their front brake cable through the top of the steerer? It looks like the fork has a side hole with a liner, but the FSA headset adapter ring doesn't leave much space for a fourth cable.
Finally received my frame today, just got this picture from my neighbour who accepted the package because I'm not at home today. I'm a bit shocked by the state of the packaging to be honest:
(https://i.ibb.co/2tLdfQb/Screenshot-2021-07-21-12-32-15-681-com-whatsapp.jpg) (https://ibb.co/2tLdfQb)
Anybody else experienced something similar? Really anxious to see what it looks like when I open it tonight.
It's quite tight but having 4 cables past the steerer is possible. I set mine up with the rear brake on the right shifter, standard in the UK, and that made it easier as the cable just keeps right into the fork. I'm also using Jagwire compressionless so the cables are quite stiff.I did manage to route all four cables into the tiny ACR hole. Looks to be a bit of friction when turning the steering, but I need to test it better later.
Did you manage to sort out the FD cable too? I ended up using a cable ferrule similar to this https://www.wiggle.co.uk/token-tk680-alloy-gear-nose, to clip inside the exit hole and position the outer cable inside. But it doesn't full clip into velobuild port so the cable tension is keeping it together. It's fine for now but in the future re-cabling with the BB installed is going to be a nightmare.
It is aero vs climb (according to Chris) but just marginally so.
Presumably part of the weight gain comes from aero shaped tubes. The seat tube appears narrower from front, with a elongated profile resulting in the cut-out.
The stack is slightly lower, and reach slightly longer for a more aggressive riding position.
The smaller rear triangle contributes to better aerodynamics from airflow passing over the rear wheel.
In the end, marginal aerodynamics are harder to achieve than than marginal weight losses (unless you are already optimal weight for the sport). And let's face it, most of us (not all) who can afford this hobby could always lose a pound or two. Instant watts!
Reality: I kinda liked the look of the 168 a bit more. I was sold when I found out the geometry is exactly the same as the Tarmac SL7. Also, I could put the $50 saved towards a fancy schmancy chameleon Paint job.
Fwiw my dengfu bike box came beat up like that too. Took pics and videos, frames fine.
Hopefully velo packaged it well, dengfu packaged mine well as well. I think the sellers know the boxes get thrown around so they package them very securely with wraps and stuff. That dent is probably because it got pushed up against a conveyer belt entrance or somethingn, but i bet its fine. Let us know :)
the inside looks pretty decently done! is that 3k twill or 12k? that doesnt look like uni at the head tube.
Velobuild is great (or so i read) but how do they send the wrong bearing size?
website says both top and bottom are 1 1/2.
hope they cover the cost to ship those bearings and such. id be unhappy but not pissed.
it also does look very nice. looks pretty shiny too! i notice with a lot of open molds sometimes you dont get a shiny finish that youd see on expensive frames, this looks like a 7/10 while my dengfu was like a 4/10 for shininess. yoeleo would be like a 8-9/10 and a 10/10 would be like a factor one for example.
when you can, can you send a flex test of the handlebar, oz cycles did one with his yoeleo bars where he put his legs on the sides of the front wheel and rocked/flexed the handlebar in the drops.
kinda wish i was in the market for a new frame because the 168 and 177 i cant take my eyes off.
https://www.airevelobearings.com/product/specialized-tarmac-sl7-headset-kit/
these look like the bearings, just google tarmac sl7 headset size and do a bit of digging.
They did send me the wrong headset bearings... Anybody knows the correct size?
Managed to find the correct bearing based on measurements of the one that was supplied, seems to be a standard 1,5" bearing.
Also, does anyone know who actually makes velobuilds frames? Curious if anyones gone direct from manuf.
I am trying to find out how to secure the seatpost. Is there a clamp or something that keeps it from sliding down?
Here is my VBR 168 I am finally building. It is a dark metallic red but the pictures do not do it justice due to a lack of light. I will take more pictures in the daylight outside to show it off when I am done.
I went with a size 56 which is down a size so hopefully it fits. I am on the line between 56/58.
Thanks a lot! Not sure about the 3k or 12k, not really my field of expertise :).
Managed to find the correct bearing based on measurements of the one that was supplied, seems to be a standard 1,5" bearing.
OD: 52mm
ID: 40mm
Thickness: 7mm
Angle: 45/45
Furthermore I quickly test fitted the SL7 seatpost cover, fits perfectly:
(https://i.ibb.co/7XTRLW2/IMG-20210721-221900.jpg) (https://ibb.co/7XTRLW2) (https://i.ibb.co/D5JnVTv/IMG-20210721-221911.jpg) (https://ibb.co/D5JnVTv) (https://i.ibb.co/YcM6mWJ/IMG-20210721-221920.jpg) (https://ibb.co/YcM6mWJ)
Nice one btw still waiting mine to be shipped from chris but chris still hasn't answer it yet
Be patient. Stick to their estimates. A day or two after the promised date, if there's still no shipping, check again with them.
Is your frame still waiting anything? Mine was waiting for the bar and it got shipped 2 weeks later than the initial estimate.
Thanks a lot! Not sure about the 3k or 12k, not really my field of expertise :).
Managed to find the correct bearing based on measurements of the one that was supplied, seems to be a standard 1,5" bearing.
OD: 52mm
ID: 40mm
Thickness: 7mm
Angle: 45/45
Furthermore I quickly test fitted the SL7 seatpost cover, fits perfectly:
(https://i.ibb.co/7XTRLW2/IMG-20210721-221900.jpg) (https://ibb.co/7XTRLW2) (https://i.ibb.co/D5JnVTv/IMG-20210721-221911.jpg) (https://ibb.co/D5JnVTv) (https://i.ibb.co/YcM6mWJ/IMG-20210721-221920.jpg) (https://ibb.co/YcM6mWJ)
is the seatpost the same design too with SL7?
maybe can reduce some weight with sl7 seatpost if it's swabable
Btw did you weight the frame and fork?
Nice one btw still waiting mine to be shipped from chris but chris still hasn't answer it yet
There is a light seatpost by Darimo for Tarmac SL7 https://r2-bike.com/DARIMO-CARBON-Seatpost-T1-Aero-UD-matte-black-for-Specialized-Tarmac-SL7-from-2021-15-mm-Offset-Di2 (https://r2-bike.com/DARIMO-CARBON-Seatpost-T1-Aero-UD-matte-black-for-Specialized-Tarmac-SL7-from-2021-15-mm-Offset-Di2), but expensive ??? ???
But, I've not idea if it's fit on our VB-R-168 ??
Thanks a lot! Not sure about the 3k or 12k, not really my field of expertise :).
Managed to find the correct bearing based on measurements of the one that was supplied, seems to be a standard 1,5" bearing.
OD: 52mm
ID: 40mm
Thickness: 7mm
Angle: 45/45
Furthermore I quickly test fitted the SL7 seatpost cover, fits perfectly:
(https://i.ibb.co/7XTRLW2/IMG-20210721-221900.jpg) (https://ibb.co/7XTRLW2) (https://i.ibb.co/D5JnVTv/IMG-20210721-221911.jpg) (https://ibb.co/D5JnVTv) (https://i.ibb.co/YcM6mWJ/IMG-20210721-221920.jpg) (https://ibb.co/YcM6mWJ)
There should be a wedge included which you slide in the seat tube from the top, this wedge can be tightened using a hex bolt from the underside. I will share a picture of the wedge later today if needed.
Thanks a lot! Not sure about the 3k or 12k, not really my field of expertise :).
Managed to find the correct bearing based on measurements of the one that was supplied, seems to be a standard 1,5" bearing.
OD: 52mm
ID: 40mm
Thickness: 7mm
Angle: 45/45
Furthermore I quickly test fitted the SL7 seatpost cover, fits perfectly:
(https://i.ibb.co/7XTRLW2/IMG-20210721-221900.jpg) (https://ibb.co/7XTRLW2) (https://i.ibb.co/D5JnVTv/IMG-20210721-221911.jpg) (https://ibb.co/D5JnVTv) (https://i.ibb.co/YcM6mWJ/IMG-20210721-221920.jpg) (https://ibb.co/YcM6mWJ)
Yes show me a picture - this is the only thing I seem to be missing.
Where did you buy your SL7 seatpost cover? Thanks in advance
Btw did you weight the frame and fork?
Sorry mine is still in the bike, which is currently hanging in the stand. Closest I could find is this:
(https://www.bikesnbites.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/05/P-Series-Seatpost-Wedge.jpg)
Mine was in the bag with headset parts.
I did:
Frame 1110g
Seatpost 234g
Fork (untrimmed) 417g
Axles 82g
Handlebars 332g
Thanks man
+200 gr from what chris told me (Frame : 980 gr unpaintted)
thats quite heavy , thinking about how to make it lighter ;D
Thanks! All seems to be okay on first sight, I checked with Chris and he asked to unpack and make pictures. Have checked and all seems okay, frame was packed really well indeed.
They did send me the wrong headset bearings... Anybody knows the correct size?
So far really happy with the paintjob and the quality of the frame. Will do a more thorough check in daylight tomorrow. Some first pictures:
(https://i.ibb.co/dr6zL9x/IMG-20210721-205208.jpg) (https://ibb.co/dr6zL9x) (https://i.ibb.co/wpWKHHz/IMG-20210721-205104.jpg) (https://ibb.co/wpWKHHz) (https://i.ibb.co/xg8WXzW/IMG-20210721-205049.jpg) (https://ibb.co/xg8WXzW) (https://i.ibb.co/Ptv6vCf/IMG-20210721-205026.jpg) (https://ibb.co/Ptv6vCf) (https://i.ibb.co/pKXFvsW/IMG-20210721-205008.jpg) (https://ibb.co/pKXFvsW) (https://i.ibb.co/QXNSMPy/IMG-20210721-204954.jpg) (https://ibb.co/QXNSMPy) (https://i.ibb.co/XjfQpgn/IMG-20210721-203952.jpg) (https://ibb.co/XjfQpgn) (https://i.ibb.co/D4TTHcs/IMG-20210721-204338.jpg) (https://ibb.co/D4TTHcs)
Sorry mine is still in the bike, which is currently hanging in the stand. Closest I could find is this:
(https://www.bikesnbites.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/05/P-Series-Seatpost-Wedge.jpg)
Mine was in the bag with headset parts.
Ive never ridden an sl7 but im genuinely curious if you put a 168 and an sl7 next to each other, would you feel the difference? You could say the sl7 is stiffer due to layup, but i have a hard time distinguishing that. I think the price comes from name and weight, to which the weight part comes from a better layup. I think theres more to the comfort of a bike than just the frame. Handlebars, wheels, seatpost, tires, etc etc
Did my first 50km ride today! Love it!! Build went pretty smooth, only real pain was setting up the rear caliper without disc rubbing, but I managed to get it right in the end. Will post some more details later.
(https://i.ibb.co/DDRch4x/IMG-20210724-130129-2.jpg) (https://ibb.co/DDRch4x) (https://i.ibb.co/rmRDTVD/IMG-20210724-130020-2.jpg) (https://ibb.co/rmRDTVD) (https://i.ibb.co/mhP6043/IMG-20210724-130013-2.jpg) (https://ibb.co/mhP6043)
Did my first 50km ride today! Love it!! Build went pretty smooth, only real pain was setting up the rear caliper without disc rubbing, but I managed to get it right in the end. Will post some more details later.Nice looking!
(https://i.ibb.co/DDRch4x/IMG-20210724-130129-2.jpg) (https://ibb.co/DDRch4x) (https://i.ibb.co/rmRDTVD/IMG-20210724-130020-2.jpg) (https://ibb.co/rmRDTVD) (https://i.ibb.co/mhP6043/IMG-20210724-130013-2.jpg) (https://ibb.co/mhP6043)
Sorry mine is still in the bike, which is currently hanging in the stand. Closest I could find is this:
(https://www.bikesnbites.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/05/P-Series-Seatpost-Wedge.jpg)
Mine was in the bag with headset parts.
Ordered mine here: https://www.stouwdam.nl/en/specialized-stp-my21-tarmac-sl7-seatpost-wedge-513
I did:
Frame 1110g
Seatpost 234g
Fork (untrimmed) 417g
Axles 82g
Handlebars 332g
Looking good
mind to share the spec and weight?
still waiting mine to be shipped :'(
Did my first 50km ride today! Love it!! Build went pretty smooth, only real pain was setting up the rear caliper without disc rubbing, but I managed to get it right in the end. Will post some more details later.
(https://i.ibb.co/DDRch4x/IMG-20210724-130129-2.jpg) (https://ibb.co/DDRch4x) (https://i.ibb.co/rmRDTVD/IMG-20210724-130020-2.jpg) (https://ibb.co/rmRDTVD) (https://i.ibb.co/mhP6043/IMG-20210724-130013-2.jpg) (https://ibb.co/mhP6043)
One thing I noticed straight away though, the bar's drops have a slight odd inward curve, see pic. Did anyone notice it? (400/100 with screws)
While building it seemed on the small side for a 56cm frame, so i measured it: I believe it's a 54cm :o seriously though..
Gonna ask for a confirmation, but if it's a 56cm the geometry is completely off.
(https://i.postimg.cc/RWxNr7QV/IMG-4472.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/RWxNr7QV) (https://i.postimg.cc/WtKd8LdZ/IMG-4480.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/WtKd8LdZ) (https://i.postimg.cc/62p8jBVr/IMG-4481.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/62p8jBVr) (https://i.postimg.cc/9r7rN89n/IMG-4482.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/9r7rN89n)
I haven't received mine but I was totally aware about it when ordering.
For 400, it should be 390mm C-C at the furthest reaches and 410mm C-C at the ends. So, they are actually flared.
(http://ueeshop.ly200-cdn.com/u_file/UPAB/UPAB004/2012/products/30/941849c0de.jpg)
I am welcoming it as they don't have the 380 option. I mounted my brifters inward on my current bike's 400 bar. For me, it's more comfortable that way.
Try measuring as a straight line parallel to the ground to the seatpost.
I couldn't find the answer to this here. Does anyone know why some of the 168 handlebars are now coming with external bolts/screws? Is the wedge design not good? That's what I have and so far it's been ok.
Hi, yes I did that looking at the geometry table, although from the pic it does look like I measured the top tube and non the effective. Also the head tube and seat tube measure like a 54cm, 13cm and 47.5cm respectively, and not 15cm and 49.6cm.
I'm glad I'm in between sizes and was originally undecided between the two, so as much it is not ideal, it's okay, but it shows lack of precision while having waited that long.
Back in mid February, when I asked for a replacement, they suggested a two bolt system: looks like they moved completely to this system since May, not sure for what reason, but it looks solid. Maybe a bit soft, as the one I had on the 099. Surely not looking as sharp with those bolts (which I'll black out), but I remember the vbr099 handlebar expander being really heavy. For comparison sake, what's the weight of that handlebar+plug?
I couldn't find the answer to this here. Does anyone know why some of the 168 handlebars are now coming with external bolts/screws? Is the wedge design not good? That's what I have and so far it's been ok.
My personal guess, it's probably cheaper.
What kind of weights are your guys’ bikes coming in at? The 168 with mid level groupset is probably in the 18 lbs category right?]
Received mine. I believe that I received all the components. With the 2-bolts bar.
Size 49, frame + axle is 1060g. Other components are around the same weight as others'.
The only disappointment is the computer mount on the bar that is not well aligned.
What kind of weights are your guys’ bikes coming in at? The 168 with mid level groupset is probably in the 18 lbs category right?
is it painted ? so 80+- gram for paint?
i'm about 167-168 cm height will size 49 good for me? if you don't mind how tall are you?
;D
It's plain matte finish. I didn't ask for any customizations. Note that it included the axle and 4 cage bolts which all are already installed when I opened the box.
I am 169cm with an inseam of approx 77cm, saddle height 66-67cm. The sizing tool from Specialized suggested me to go for the 52 but I decided to get the 49. My decision was primarily based on the effective-top-tube length. Fixing a stack that is too low should be easier than fixing a reach that is too far.
I haven't actually started my build, but I've already temporarily set them up to check things in the box and to get some idea of the finished build.
Reach-wise, with the 400/90 bar, I am pretty much satisfied with it. I am pretty sure that I won't need to stretch my upper body to access the hoods, and it doesn't feel too small. I'd get a bar with a longer stem if so.
The stack might be the one that is not ideal. It's simply aggressive* even with all of the provided spacers. If it's preferred to get more of an upright position, you might want to ask for extra spacers (it's probably ugly, but...).
I can't provide any real confirmations for now.
Hope that helps.
Edit: by aggressive I mean that there will be ≥5cm diff between top of the bar and top of saddle.
If it's preferred to get more of an upright position, you might want to ask for extra spacers (it's probably ugly, but...).That’s not a good idea, as far as I’ve read. For safety, there’s a maximum stack of spacers you can put under the stem. Usually 30mm of spacers is the max for a carbon steerer.
That’s not a good idea, as far as I’ve read. For safety, there’s a maximum stack of spacers you can put under the stem. Usually 30mm of spacers is the max for a carbon steerer.I didn't know. I thought that the spacers add structural strengthening to the steerer. Thanks for the info.
Thanks & appreciated for the info, maybe mine will be 1080-1100 (I ask to paint it light metallic blue) hope it will lighter though
but Chris haven't shipped it yet , its almost a month where he said he can finished it in 2 weeks :'(
can't wait to see other final build and yours *cheers
Same boat here. 2 weeks behind. I even asked for a realistic ship date, understanding they might be busier than usual.
Also, my status still shows as "Awaiting Payment" which is a bit annoying.
Could anyone chime in if Chris actually sends you a notification once it is shipped, or do you just get a courier notification one day?
Yeah VB lately are being funny about deadlines, which wasn't the case when I ordered my 099 at the end of October as I got it the first week of December. I guess they are working with a different manufacturer/supplier which may be running behind, the 168 being a really popular design from how many frames they sold. Mine was supposed to be shipped by the end of March, but got shipped last week. Savage lol
In autumn last year I got an email notification of shipment, while last week they texted on skype the tracking number but no other notifications whatsoever. I guess texting them and ask is the better way
Could anyone chime in if Chris actually sends you a notification once it is shipped, or do you just get a courier notification one day?
In my case, I've got an automated email from their site which says that the shipping process has started. It was at the 'Awaiting Shipping' status while it was waiting for the bar.
I kindly told him that I would like the original bar
If you want it to be perfect, and you can wait, definitely try to get the original version. The clamp of the two-bolt version is noticeably smaller compared to the spacers and the cap. While from the photos I can find, the original seems to be matching them really well. It doesn't affect the functionality in any way, but it does irritate my eyes.
Chris emailed me saying he could ship Monday, but with the 2-bolt bar and in 440/110
I kindly told him that I would like the original bar, in the requested size (420/110), and that it was OK if I had to wait - I am in no rush.
Let’s see what the response is.
I’d rather wait for the correct order, than rush to have my wrists and shoulders jacked by the wrong sized bars.
If you want it to be perfect, and you can wait, definitely try to get the original version. The clamp of the two-bolt version is noticeably smaller compared to the spacers and the cap. While from the photos I can find, the original seems to be matching them really well. It doesn't affect the functionality in any way, but it does irritate my eyes.
I hope mine can be shipped in monday also
Hey guys, quick update on my build, which I hope might help who still need to start:
After managing the internal routing, I realised that I couldn't eliminate the headset play without locking the steering. After quite a few trials, I realised that the problem could be that the compression ring that sits above the top bearing, is sitting too low for the dust cover to compress it down once the top cap is tightened, which result in the dust cover pushing on the frame instead of the headset (as it has downward lip), while pulling up the fork excessively. As I put some cardboard/plastic strips on top of the compression ring as spacers (didn't have nothing better on hand), it seems fine, although some paint paid the price while figuring this out.
Obvs is not a solution but I intend to redo the wiring in a few weeks, once I remove the spacers and re-cut the fork, so i'll fix all that at once with some spacer-half-ring or something. Maybe a 1-2mm extra height in the top bearing could do, need to do some research on that. If anyone has ideas, fire away ;D
Hope it helps if anyone has/will have the same issue ;)
(https://i.postimg.cc/py7D73Hn/IMG-4502.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/py7D73Hn) (https://i.postimg.cc/Mfc1HmyT/IMG-4504.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/Mfc1HmyT)
On a traditional headset those microspacers would help. In this case the cables get in the way so the spacers don't cleanly slide over the steerer.
Bike has been well tested, beautiful.
(https://i.ibb.co/bRZvb5W/IMG-20210801-123822.jpg) (https://ibb.co/fG5NDd1)
Bike has been well tested, beautiful.
(https://i.ibb.co/bRZvb5W/IMG-20210801-123822.jpg) (https://ibb.co/fG5NDd1)
Apparently I will receive the correct bars, and it will still be shipped Monday.
For reference, design was finalized and payment received by VB on June 24.
So, that’s 5 and a half weeks.
He says 2 to 3 weeks, but 4 to 6 weeks fell within my expectations.
Dont know how long shipping will take.
On a traditional headset those microspacers would help. In this case the cables get in the way so the spacers don't cleanly slide over the steerer.
Bike has been well tested, beautiful.
(https://i.ibb.co/bRZvb5W/IMG-20210801-123822.jpg) (https://ibb.co/fG5NDd1)
Bike has been well tested, beautiful.
(https://i.ibb.co/bRZvb5W/IMG-20210801-123822.jpg) (https://ibb.co/fG5NDd1)
I still promised to share some specs of my build, so hereby :).
(https://i.ibb.co/DDRch4x/IMG-20210724-130129-2.jpg) (https://ibb.co/DDRch4x) (https://i.ibb.co/rmRDTVD/IMG-20210724-130020-2.jpg) (https://ibb.co/rmRDTVD) (https://i.ibb.co/mhP6043/IMG-20210724-130013-2.jpg) (https://ibb.co/mhP6043)
Frameset: Velobuild VB-R-168 (O RLY? ;D), Size 56
Wheelset: Farsports Kaze 35, 23mm (ext) width, DT Swiss 350, Sapim CX ray with brass nipples
Tires: Schwalbe Pro One EVO TLE (set-up tubelss with Schwalbe valves and Orange Seal endurance)
Bar: Two bolt Velobuild bar 420/100
Bottle cages: Tacx Ciro (Matt black)
Seat: Specialized power expert 155mm
BB: Shimano Dura Ace BB92
Crankset: Rotor ALDHU24
Chainrings: Rotor Q Rings Sram AXS, 48/35
Groupset: SRAM Force eTap AXS 2x12, 160mm discs, 10-28 cassette
I love the ride so far, the bike feels really fast and gives a great sense of control.
I do have one issue, even though I have tightened the seatpost to 7nm it somehow is making a sort of knocking sound if I stand up and sit down. It seems like the post has too much room to move in the seat tube... Anybody else experencing this?
Those microspacers are easy to snip to fit an integrated headset.Sometimes the simple solution is easy to miss. Woops :-[
Great paint design!Thanks!
Nice oneIt is ridden by my girlfriend with near to no technical bike knowledge. She mentioned it feels fast, stable and comfortable.
how's the ride feels? any huge different with branded one?
Looks very nice indeed!My first attempt at internal cabling resulted in a stripped and damaged outer layer of most cables. The FSA ACR stem (70mm) and bar (36cm) have a lot of -very- tight bends. These places also have sharp metal edges so in my second attempt I carefully guided the cables to make sure they didn't chafe on those sharp edges. Treat it as a one-way job because pulling cables back results in catching and damage. Also, I noticed the Velobuild bearings had a different angling compared to my ACR headset ones, so I switched those back on the second cabling-pass. The ACR headset is designed to take the front hydraulic brake cable through the top of the expansion plug and steerer, but that is not possible in the Velobuild fork. So I routed everything trough the just big enough gap in the compression ring, and tried to route it as logical as possible (left/right and minimal cable crossing). The brake hose enters the fork about halfway into the steerer and neatly exits above the brake mount. There's a few mm too big of a gap between frame and headset cover for my liking, but there's no play in the headset whatsoever so I'll gladly deal with it. When angling the handlebar in extreme positions the cable housing shorten and lengthen through the frame which could result in unwanted shifts, but with full internal cabling I imagine that is unavoidable as there is no place to loop excess housing. Shifting and breaking is working fine. I tightened the seatpost wedge to 6nm and put on a thin layer of carbon paste. There is no slippage, but it's at 55kg rider weight.
Would love to hear more about it, how did the rest of the build go, any issues? How did you end up routing the cables? Did the FSA headset/stem work okay etc.?
And how is the ride which is probably the most important part :)
Beautiful indeed. I believe that's the size 49. First time seeing a completed one.Ding ding ding, you are right. It's the size 49 frame.
How's the access to the bottle? I am thinking of getting cages that allow access from the sides.
Hi guysTry putting the number in here:
i wanna ask about the tracking number from Chris
He said the EMS already picked the item and will update the tracking number but the tracking hasn't show up
is anyone had the same situation?
cheers*
Try putting the number in here:
http://www.wxy-express.com/index.php/home/TrackingResult.html?l=en-us
It's shown me the first part of the journey.
sorry, i mean Chris hasn't give me any tracking number yetAh. I also ordered wheels and they were a bit delayed. So got paint pics first and frame was send a bit later together with the wheels.
and he promised to give me a photo after painting process
but he kinda dodge it and said already sent it to me also the EMS already picked up the package
is it normal with velobuild process?
I actually requested the stem and flats be painted.
I only tape just past the shifters, which will leave the flats exposed (I almost never ride on he flats)
Unless by some miracle it was just some trickery of the light, I will send the bike right back and ask for it to me repainted. I mean, it won't affect the ride obviously, but I chose things like brake calipers, rotors, bar tape, heck even my bike computer based on a red colour scheme.
I don't mind waiting. At this point I don't mind missing riding my new bike during this year's riding season due to waiting for.
But I do mind not getting what I ordered.
When ordering mine, I thought about making it red, but after seeing other frames on the custom paint page I realised the name red chameleon is completely misleading. Even if this is different from the purple chameleon, this one looks like an aubergine purple/burgundy. I think it looks good, but yeah, it does not look red.Yea, he showed me that bike too, to which I said "Can you do this" and provided an appropriate chameleon paint chip. He said it'd be more black than red, but should be possible. Apparently it wasn't. Confirmed, per your suspicion, this is their "Chameleon Red", which is not any sort of red in chinese or english
I think is like this one http://www.velobuildmall.com/products/vb-r-086-chameleon-redurple-look-carbon-bike-frame-aero-road (http://www.velobuildmall.com/products/vb-r-086-chameleon-redurple-look-carbon-bike-frame-aero-road)
I understand if theres paint issues you want to return it, but theres no way you wouldnt be paying for shipping to and from, at that point, itll be like $200 and you can get it done at an autobody shop!
I had similar issues with the paint job in that I requested this chamaleon purple http://www.velobuildmall.com/products/2020urple-chameleonaint-carbon-road-disc-frame-vb-r-099-hidden-cables
Does anyone know split spacer that is compatible with 186's bar & headset? I want to play around with the bar height, but provided spacers require me to reinstall all the cables each time I reconfigure the spacers.
Edit: just checked their site again. They have a new bar (HB011). And it seems that it comes with split spacers and probably compatible with 168's / HB010. I just sent a message to them asking if I can get those spacers.
Does anyone know split spacer that is compatible with 186's bar & headset? I want to play around with the bar height, but provided spacers require me to reinstall all the cables each time I reconfigure the spacers.
Edit: just checked their site again. They have a new bar (HB011). And it seems that it comes with split spacers and probably compatible with 168's / HB010. I just sent a message to them asking if I can get those spacers.
Confirmed. I was told I'd get the HB011 instead of the HB010, but in 440mm
Although, on my pic it looks like I was sent the HB010 (but in the correct size
EDIT: Anyone ever get the impression that "Chris" is actually a team of reps, all just signing emails as "Chris"?
Yeah I agree with Schumo. That first one you linked looks like a straight purple. Maaaaaybe it has the slightest shift to red at high angle.
On a separate note, tonight while out on a ride and changing a flat, the thread from the rear hanger on my 168 stripped. I don't believe I had been overtoqueing it. When ordering the frame I specifically asked for spare hangers for situations like this but looking at them now there isn't a thru axle one and now I can't tighten my back wheel...
Will be asking for a couple of more. In the meantime if anyone has any tips on getting a stripped thread on a hanger to hold better, please let me know!
Arg! I don't know if I can accept this!
It's so far from red I am speechless! I've emailed Velobuild, but not hopeful for a happy resolution.
On to stuff you want to hear:
56cm frame with HB010 bars
Frame weight w/axle: 1160g
Fork w/axle: 466g
Handlebars: 322g
Seat post: 244g
Hardware pack: about 260g (I still had it in the box balled up with shipping tape)
Arg! I don't know if I can accept this!
It's so far from red I am speechless! I've emailed Velobuild, but not hopeful for a happy resolution.
Finished the build last Saturday.
My first proper road bike, my first carbon frame. Nothing fancy.
I didn't build it myself. I brought most of the components to a bike shop in the neighborhood, and let the pro do it for me.
Everything is within expectation. I am satisfied with it, although I wish I had the patience to get the frame painted and to wait for some deeper wheels.
I had a concern that it would be too aggressive for me. It turned out that, with all of the supplied spacers, it's within my comfort. I could probably afford to remove the 0.5mm spacer.
Finished the build last Saturday.
My first proper road bike, my first carbon frame. Nothing fancy.
I didn't build it myself. I brought most of the components to a bike shop in the neighborhood, and let the pro do it for me.
Everything is within expectation. I am satisfied with it, although I wish I had the patience to get the frame painted and to wait for some deeper wheels.
I had a concern that it would be too aggressive for me. It turned out that, with all of the supplied spacers, it's within my comfort. I could probably afford to remove the 0.5mm spacer.
That's a really nice picture. How are the Juin brakes? I'm still debating between the full hydraulics of the R7020, or going with a set of Juin.
Finished the build last Saturday.
My first proper road bike, my first carbon frame. Nothing fancy.
I didn't build it myself. I brought most of the components to a bike shop in the neighborhood, and let the pro do it for me.
Everything is within expectation. I am satisfied with it, although I wish I had the patience to get the frame painted and to wait for some deeper wheels.
I had a concern that it would be too aggressive for me. It turned out that, with all of the supplied spacers, it's within my comfort. I could probably afford to remove the 0.5mm spacer.
Wow, it looks like the stem is twisting, or, even like the stem hasn't been tightened.I confirm you that the stem and the expander are correctly tightened.
I confirm you that the stem and the expander are correctly tightened.
I sent a mail to Chris to have his point of view.
If you have any suggestion for good and stiff integrated stem/handlebar with internal cable routing from Aliexpress, please tell me
"The One" Handlebar is very well reviewed, but very pricey by Chinese carbon standards.Thank you 1Sigma for this proposition, but the integration of the cables in the top headset will not be the best, it should be necessary to have an hole under the stem to have a perfect integration.
I've seen if often compared to the Metron Vision
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001836181533.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.132d632fQqjrZ9&algo_pvid=50e85bd8-aa39-4b84-9719-4dbf9305ed32&algo_exp_id=50e85bd8-aa39-4b84-9719-4dbf9305ed32-1&pdp_ext_f=%7B%22sku_id%22%3A%2212000017799246471%22%7D
Hello, I received yesterday my VB-R-168 and all was great.
Today, I started the build and I'm totally disappointed with how the handlebar is soft / flex
Take a look at the video https://www.casimages.com/v/lc6oMb-20210813-131911.mp4.html (https://www.casimages.com/v/lc6oMb-20210813-131911.mp4.html)
For sure, personally and for my security, I will not ride with this handlebar.
So now, I should find and buy another handlebar more stiffer (Specialized / FSA / ???)
Hello, I received yesterday my VB-R-168 and all was great.
Today, I started the build and I'm totally disappointed with how the handlebar is soft / flex
Take a look at the video https://www.casimages.com/v/lc6oMb-20210813-131911.mp4.html (https://www.casimages.com/v/lc6oMb-20210813-131911.mp4.html)
For sure, personally and for my security, I will not ride with this handlebar.
So now, I should find and buy another handlebar more stiffer (Specialized / FSA / ???)
Thank you 1Sigma for this proposition, but the integration of the cables in the top headset will not be the best, it should be necessary to have an hole under the stem to have a perfect integration.
I saw that you have also received your frame, did you notice this flex on the handlebar?
Unfortunately I have not assembled it yet, so I cannot report.Hahah I just saw your post in the other section. I was tempted to click but glad I didn't as I'm at work. Very weird side project for them
I hate to say this, and please do not take offense, but it almost looks as though the compression plug for the steerer was set too low, making the handlebars clamp to hollow carbon (which would allow it to get crushed).
If you remove the handlebar, can you see the condition of the steerer tube?
Also, did anyone else notice the bizarre link to a cross-dressing store on the site? BTW, I clicked on it so you don't have to. If you have little ones or at the office, don't do it...
Unfortunately I have not assembled it yet, so I cannot report.
I hate to say this, and please do not take offence, but it almost looks as though the compression plug for the steerer was set too low, making the handlebars clamp to hollow carbon (which would allow it to get crushed).
If you remove the handlebar, can you see the condition of the steerer tube?
Also, did anyone else notice the bizarre link to a cross-dressing store on the site? BTW, I clicked on it so you don't have to. If you have little ones or at the office, don't do it...
I would like to say that I'm not at my first build, almost 10 bikes (road, MTB, chinese, branded, Dengfu, Cannondale, OPEN Cycle, etc...)
To resume, I cut the fork steerer under the top of the stem and when I put the expander there is more or less 3mm free, to the top of the stem, so enought to compress the headset.
There is no spacer installed under the stem.
(https://nsm09.casimages.com/img/2021/08/13//21081308060820397117528119.jpg) (https://www.casimages.com/i/21081308060820397117528119.jpg.html)
For me this flex is coming from the stem
Apart from that, a photo of the bike under construction (size 56cm, color blue chameleon)
(https://nsm09.casimages.com/img/2021/08/13//21081308060920397117528121.jpg) (https://www.casimages.com/i/21081308060920397117528121.jpg.html)
And a little hack on the seat post (gain 28gr)
(https://nsm09.casimages.com/img/2021/08/13//21081308060920397117528120.jpg) (https://www.casimages.com/i/21081308060920397117528120.jpg.html)
I would like to say that I'm not at my first build, almost 10 bikes (road, MTB, chinese, branded, Dengfu, Cannondale, OPEN Cycle, etc...)
To resume, I cut the fork steerer under the top of the stem and when I put the expander there is more or less 3mm free, to the top of the stem, so enought to compress the headset.
There is no spacer installed under the stem.
(https://nsm09.casimages.com/img/2021/08/13//21081308060820397117528119.jpg) (https://www.casimages.com/i/21081308060820397117528119.jpg.html)
For me this flex is coming from the stem
I would like to say that I'm not at my first build, almost 10 bikes (road, MTB, chinese, branded, Dengfu, Cannondale, OPEN Cycle, etc...)
And a little hack on the seat post (gain 28gr)
(https://nsm09.casimages.com/img/2021/08/13//21081308060920397117528120.jpg) (https://www.casimages.com/i/21081308060920397117528120.jpg.html)
Apart from that, a photo of the bike under construction (size 56cm, color blue chameleon)
(https://nsm09.casimages.com/img/2021/08/13//21081308060920397117528121.jpg) (https://www.casimages.com/i/21081308060920397117528121.jpg.html)
I wonder if its to do with the lack of head tube spacer, did you try it with spacers before you cut the steerer?I didn't try with the spacer, because it was not necessary for my position. But from my point view, the spacer will not change the stem flex.
Which Juin tech brakes did you go for? I can't decide between the F1 or the GT's, not sure if 4 pistons are a bit overkill for a road bike or not.
Also what did you do to tune the seatpost?
My bad dude. Didn't mean to insinuate you didn't know what you're doing. Was just giving my observation.No worries Snacks, i understood ;) ;). My goal was to explain my situation and my experience in bike building, just to say I'm not a noob ;D ;D
I did, however, go check my own bike, velobuild r099 , and actually I have a pretty similar amount if flex in the stem too. I guess it's been fine but for some peace of mind looks like I'm taking my own advice and getting the FSA ACR headset and stem now
Clearly you know what you are doing. Since it's a new build, might as well as VB for a replacement under warranty.
Also, sure 28g from the seatpost, but just think how much weight you are saved by not installing the drivetrain!
Your "flexed" handlebar issue is really strange, so there is no flex from the fork ? Only the handlebar ?For me the flex is coming form the area of the stem.
Thanks for the photo, this color looks so nice ! I am about to order the same frame soon and will probably ask for the same color, is it just blue chameleon or is there a more specific color ? Is it the same as this one : http://www.velobuildmall.com/products/vb-r-099-chameleon-blue-aero-road-carbon-bike-frame ? (it looks a bit different but that might be due to the lights).
Regarding the wheels, is it the lightbicycle AR465 model ? I guess you haven't tested them yet but if you have some feedback that would be nice :)
Hello
We are checking with the customer ,his bar seems expander lock one ,now our bars two bolts lock
Chris
Hello was only a silent reader until now. I ordered 2 frames 168 from Curis are on the way. The video with the handlebars and that it is an experienced self-builder scared me. I already got an answer from Chris
I don't even know what that means exactly, I don't even see how it goes on
Hello
Thanks for the bar picture
Please rest assured the bar tested .The moving from video seems not locked tightly enough ,not bar flexibility
Chris
Have you tried it without the top triangle cover? The bolt might not be going down enough to push out the expanding sleeve.
I've just received my 168 yesterday so the build starts this weekend. I noticed I've got a different handle bar to you. Mine seems to be this one (http://www.velobuild.com/products/carbon-fiber-road-bike-integrated-handlebar-with-spacers-for-hidden-cables-routing), notice there's the two bolts on the side for tightening, rather than that bolt insert. It only came with the spacers and expander too.
Dream including pedals?
Can you put the table online
Thank you :)
Has anyone ever tried to install the seat post from the Tarmac SL7,
it fits, the rubber cover fits perfectly
I just bought one, when my frames are there I'll report, but that may take a while :)
I am having a small issue with the seatpost and the expander/wedge.
I just realized that crank arm length, cleat system, sole height, and certainly the saddle rail-to-top are the determining factors for the seatpost insertion depth.
I've cut my seatpost a bit shorter than my target saddle height because I miscalculated the insertion depth -- it's primarily because I used 165mm crank instead of my usual 170mm. It became an issue as the seatpost is slipping on every ride even with reasonable tightening on the expander. I haven't applied carbon paste though.
After I checked the seatpost, I noticed that the contact area of the expander to the seatpost is too small. The contacts are mostly on the edges. Each slippage, the expander digs into the seatpost leaving two parallel scratch lines along the seatpost.
The solution should be to increase the contact area. Will carbon paste a solution here?
Other experiences with seatpost so far:
On each slippage, the seatpost became stuck around the wheel cutout area. I had to pull the seat system with a reasonable force. I used a bar around eye-level height, cover it with some clothes, hook the saddle on to it -- after I loosen the expander, and then jerk the bike down. I hope that this force is still within the designed operating force window.
I also noticed that the seat tube doesn't have uniform thickness along its run. It became thinner a few cm in. This might be the cause of some knocking sound someone noticed before.
1) steerer is nice and smooth most of the way, but contains a nest of loose ends at the bottom.
Hard to capture without a scope, but is this normal?
2) There appears to be a void or delamination at the top of the tube (right by my thumb)
I mean, this will be cut, but is that an indicator of overall quality?
3) These weird irregularities near the fork. Not gouges, but indents. Probably nothing.
4) looks like a bit of a hack job drilling the brake line hole. Probably not an issue. Just ugly
Yeah the wait for the frame is a killer, I think I'm coming close to 2 months now and it's still awaiting paint and custom decals.
Which seatpost did you order? I can't find any chiner ones and the official SL7 posts are upwards of €200!
i don't recommend about using the current seatpost, some guy in my town broke apart their seatpost because he doesn't fulfill the minimum seatpost insertion dept, but it takes a year for it to be happen, clearly its better to have a replacement and contact Chris for solution.
Steerer tube question. This is my first time working with carbon.
Most of the carbon work on this looks pretty good for my untrained eye.
However, a few things caught my attention on the steerer.
Any care to weigh in?
1) steerer is nice and smooth most of the way, but contains a nest of loose ends at the bottom.
Hard to capture without a scope, but is this normal?
2) There appears to be a void or delamination at the top of the tube (right by my thumb)
I mean, this will be cut, but is that an indicator of overall quality?
3) These weird irregularities near the fork. Not gouges, but indents. Probably nothing.
4) looks like a bit of a hack job drilling the brake line hole. Probably not an issue. Just ugly
Steerer tube question. This is my first time working with carbon.
Most of the carbon work on this looks pretty good for my untrained eye.
However, a few things caught my attention on the steerer.
Any care to weigh in?
1) steerer is nice and smooth most of the way, but contains a nest of loose ends at the bottom.
Hard to capture without a scope, but is this normal?
2) There appears to be a void or delamination at the top of the tube (right by my thumb)
I mean, this will be cut, but is that an indicator of overall quality?
3) These weird irregularities near the fork. Not gouges, but indents. Probably nothing.
4) looks like a bit of a hack job drilling the brake line hole. Probably not an issue. Just ugly
Of course ;) ;)
(https://nsm09.casimages.com/img/2021/08/15//21081503475720397117529236.jpg) (https://www.casimages.com/i/21081503475720397117529236.jpg.html)
The futures evolutions will be to change:
- the saddle for GELU E1 (https://gelucarboncreation.com/product/gelu-e-1/)
- Ligther expander (https://fr.aliexpress.com/item/32848007493.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.13661d63bhocu4&algo_pvid=2e8a8fdd-5c75-40b2-bfbc-2ce4332ca191&algo_exp_id=2e8a8fdd-5c75-40b2-bfbc-2ce4332ca191-21&pdp_ext_f=%7B%22sku_id%22%3A%2265607362064%22%7D) and top (https://fr.aliexpress.com/item/4000185056194.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.13661d63bhocu4&algo_pvid=2e8a8fdd-5c75-40b2-bfbc-2ce4332ca191&algo_exp_id=2e8a8fdd-5c75-40b2-bfbc-2ce4332ca191-28&pdp_ext_f=%7B%22sku_id%22%3A%2210000000686823694%22%7D)
- Lighter thrue axles (https://fr.aliexpress.com/item/1005002813771223.html?spm=a2g0o.detail.1000060.1.17b64e8fBbtOaQ&gps-id=pcDetailBottomMoreThisSeller&scm=1007.13339.169870.0&scm_id=1007.13339.169870.0&scm-url=1007.13339.169870.0&pvid=7722115b-4379-4fee-9400-9ecc4bbaf414&_t=gps-id:pcDetailBottomMoreThisSeller,scm-url:1007.13339.169870.0,pvid:7722115b-4379-4fee-9400-9ecc4bbaf414,tpp_buckets:668%230%23131923%2343_668%230%23131923%2343_668%23888%233325%231_668%23888%233325%231_668%232846%238109%231935_668%235811%2327174%2318_668%236421%2330825%23465_668%232717%237558%23148_668%231000022185%231000066058%230_668%236808%2332771%23226_668%233468%2315616%23791_668%232846%238109%231935_668%235811%2327174%2318_668%236421%2330825%23465_668%232717%237558%23148_668%233164%239976%23882_668%236808%2332771%23226_668%233468%2315616%23791&&pdp_ext_f=%7B%22scene%22:%223339%22%7D)
- Bottle cage (https://fr.aliexpress.com/item/10000410662996.html?spm=a2g0o.detail.1000014.15.27e33859DYhNy8&gps-id=pcDetailBottomMoreOtherSeller&scm=1007.13338.183346.0&scm_id=1007.13338.183346.0&scm-url=1007.13338.183346.0&pvid=098f6a00-5423-4d01-8d90-ce928d981b85&_t=gps-id:pcDetailBottomMoreOtherSeller,scm-url:1007.13338.183346.0,pvid:098f6a00-5423-4d01-8d90-ce928d981b85,tpp_buckets:668%230%23131923%2394_668%23888%233325%231_3338%230%23183346%230_3338%233142%239890%234_668%232846%238109%231935_668%235811%2327174%2318_668%236421%2330825%23465_668%232717%237558%23148_668%231000022185%231000066058%230_668%236808%2332771%23226_668%233422%2315392%23346&&pdp_ext_f=%7B%22scene%22:%2223416%22%7D)
- Tubes by wolfpack (https://wolfpack-tires.com/produkt/tpu-schlauch-ventillaenge-aktuell-40-mm/)
I should win 250gr
so i received my frame today
okay here's my review so far :
The color is bad ( its not even resembling even an inch from what i request ) i request laser blue metallic and come blue pastel :'(
i'm disappointed , and going to paint it later after a few rides
except from the paint the frame is good
I have XS size
Frame with hanger come in 1101 gram (quite heavy paint around 100gr)
Here is my frame and will build it with other handlebar , i do find the bar is flexy and i don't like it
Should i sell it or keep it ?
My Build may weight around 7,4 - 7,7 Kg
Yes, it's not the best finish compared to a branded one like Cannondale or Specialized, but that is common for this type of production. From what we can see on our pictures and from my experience there is no risk in use.
Exactly as I received. I was also concerned but didn't put much thought into it, and the shop guy who helped me build the bike didn't put any comment on the fork -- he praised the frame though. I just assumed that they use a less sophisticated method compared to the frame.
1. I do found this in some low quality carbon part like seatpost and handlebar, and i have had some carbon bike with big brand, they doesn't has this but pretty sure it won't be problem but correct me if i'm wrong
2 & 3 . shouldn't be problem hopefuly , i will get back at you later, i'm getting mine today let me see mine
4. Thank God it's hidden
so i received my frame today
okay here's my review so far :
The color is bad ( its not even resembling even an inch from what i request ) i request laser blue metallic and come blue pastel :'(
i'm disappointed , and going to paint it later after a few rides
Do you have a link to the Chinese Ti Speed Play pedals you're using? Do you recomend them?I bought these pedals https://fr.aliexpress.com/item/1005002304240956.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.25176c37RuykzV (https://fr.aliexpress.com/item/1005002304240956.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.25176c37RuykzV)
so i received my frame todayFor sure, this color is not close to laser blue metallic, I'm sorry for you :(
okay here's my review so far :
The color is bad ( its not even resembling even an inch from what i request ) i request laser blue metallic and come blue pastel :'(
i'm disappointed , and going to paint it later after a few rides
except from the paint the frame is good
I have XS size
Frame with hanger come in 1101 gram (quite heavy paint around 100gr)
Here is my frame and will build it with other handlebar , i do find the bar is flexy and i don't like it
Should i sell it or keep it ?
My Build may weight around 7,4 - 7,7 Kg
Such a shame it doesn't match what you asked for! Did you send over a colour picture reference to Chris or just request the colour via e-mail? Did you receive a mock-up of what the colour was meant to look like? Personally, I really like the look of what you have been sent but can imagine you're disappointed!
Aside from the colour, how is the quality of the paint job itself? Have you also inspected the frame and bars, are they also okay quality wise?
Thanks for sharing!
A shame about the paint. I am still in discussions with Chris to try to find a mutually agreeable solution (although within rights, there is no way they will send a new frame. But asking me to ship it back at my expense is also not fair)
If the paint is off, for instance, the metallic blue was a little light or darker than expected, I would consider this an acceptable deviation.
In your case, it looks like they used the wrong Pantone code and you ended up with something like Relucent Blue (which has a very similar number)
Up to you how worth it is for you to put up a fight I guess, but at the very least you should get exactly what you ordered in terms of parts, and very close in terms of paint.
For sure, this color is not close to laser blue metallic, I'm sorry for you :(
I am a little surprised at the weight announced in your spreadsheet, especially for the seatpost and the headset. Did you change something?
I am also interested to know which model of handlebar you will use.
I installed this handlebar on my colleague's house. Here, too,
I have to say a lot of flex. I would also be interested in what kind of handlebars you build
https://de.aliexpress.com/item/33021843997.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.13bb4c4dzIvwe4
(http://abload.de/img/clipboard-hp84449pjck.jpg)
i did buy this one https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001962258266.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.2c5e5ae45g7bjb&algo_pvid=6b819c2b-75f0-4fb2-bf80-e10a682aa628&algo_exp_id=6b819c2b-75f0-4fb2-bf80-e10a682aa628-1&pdp_ext_f=%7B%22sku_id%22%3A%2212000018240190316%22%7D
and more stiffer than the velobuild one but i will get back to you after my build finished
just drop it at mechanic and will be finished around thursday or friday
That bar looks nice, however I don't think you're able to route the cables down through the headset spacers and in to the frame, is that right?
Chris has confirmed that they will ship my order this Friday, and that if I do not want the bar he is happy to refund me cost of the bar.
So...do I proceed with the HB011 bar, or do I ship without and look for an alternative?
Can anyone recommend a good, fully integrated/hidden cable bar (most likely off AliX) that is going to work with the VB-R-168? I've got until Thursday this week to decide.
I have my own paintshop actually and the cost its' the same as velobuild to paint it but i decided to have Chris painted it because i don't want to do the extra work but somehow it doesn't satisfy me, in my opinion you should take it to your local paint shop instead arguing with Chris, even Chris never respond to my email again, and he assume he already sent the picture of finished frame which he never sent me and just send the frame to me
That bar looks nice, however I don't think you're able to route the cables down through the headset spacers and in to the frame, is that right?
Chris has confirmed that they will ship my order this Friday, and that if I do not want the bar he is happy to refund me cost of the bar.
So...do I proceed with the HB011 bar, or do I ship without and look for an alternative?
Can anyone recommend a good, fully integrated/hidden cable bar (most likely off AliX) that is going to work with the VB-R-168? I've got until Thursday this week to decide.
You are probably right, but as I do not have my own paint shop, and in my locality a paint job will cost more than the frame (any good recommendations in Toronto, anyone?) I think I would kick myself for not trying to come to a resolution with Chris.
OR....I could just lean into it. I recently purchased some vinyl unicorn stickers for my daughter's bike. Maybe I'll just embrace my purple sparkle bike and let her slap a few stickers on.
What do you think?
As for handlebar flex - is this under load, as in out of the seat sprinting and climbing, or even is low wattage conditions?
I have the dengfu bar that came with my r12. Its stiff, comparable to oz cycles flex test of his yoeleo bars. $110. Getting an all in one is $80 from ali so you should pay the extra $30 for a two year warranty and guaranteed quality.
There are many retailers but only a few manufacturers ...
that says it all, that's the same handlebar
left Velobuild right Dengfu
(http://abload.de/img/clipboard-hp4800z2jnx.jpg)
You are probably right, but as I do not have my own paint shop, and in my locality a paint job will cost more than the frame (any good recommendations in Toronto, anyone?) I think I would kick myself for not trying to come to a resolution with Chris.
OR....I could just lean into it. I recently purchased some vinyl unicorn stickers for my daughter's bike. Maybe I'll just embrace my purple sparkle bike and let her slap a few stickers on.
What do you think?
As for handlebar flex - is this under load, as in out of the seat sprinting and climbing, or even is low wattage conditions?
There are many retailers but only a few manufacturers ...
that says it all, that's the same handlebar
left Velobuild right Dengfu
(http://abload.de/img/clipboard-hp4800z2jnx.jpg)
Has anyone ever tried to install the seat post from the Tarmac SL7,
it fits, the rubber cover fits perfectly
(http://abload.de/img/clipboard-hp7776e0k4k.jpg)
definitely doesn’t fit
are there any ways to reduce the weight from seatpost ?
definitely the metal parts. those are massive contributors.
I've weighted my build and I've got it around 8.3kg including the pedals, bottle cages, and a Topeak racerocket 120. Should be 7.8-7.9kg without them.
I am also planning to remove 15mm or 20mm of the headset spacers.
Hello
Yes the headset spacers are heavy planning to buy a plastic one from aliexpress
just finished my build
it weight 7,7 kg with look keo blade pedal and bottle cage
Happy with 7,7 kg for now
Thanks for sharing.
Been thinking about this and want to swap it but fortunately it doesn't fit.
are there any ways to reduce the weight from seatpost ?
Did you manage to internally route the cables using your handlebar?
(https://i.imgur.com/gJ0xzmo.jpg?2)
(https://i.imgur.com/epYparm.jpg?2)
The bird has (crash) landed ;D
Amazingly it looks to be unscathed. Only a slight paint notch at the seatpost hole.
Paint is Cameleon blue with a matt finish. From other angles its dark purple - I'll add more pictures later.
Order date: 17-05-2021
Arrival date (in Denmark): 19-08-2021
Will be building it up this weekend.
(https://i.imgur.com/gJ0xzmo.jpg?2)
(https://i.imgur.com/epYparm.jpg?2)
The weight is great with the equipment. what kind of wheels do you have ... hubs rim weight
thanks
Question on the Handlebars and seatpost.
Did any of you require carbon paste for them or not
This can vary build to build, so just curious how the 168 fares in this regard
Thanks :)There's an info in the specification section here: https://www.winspace.cc/hyper-2020 it's 26mm external, 19mm internal
I couldn't find the inside width of the rim on the website
Question on the Handlebars and seatpost.
Did any of you require carbon paste for them or not
This can vary build to build, so just curious how the 168 fares in this regard
My seatpost is still slipping even with carbon paste. Is there any trick to apply the paste?
Hmm, never seen a piece like that. Looks like a thick micro spacer. Where it is now, it looks like it will it will interfere with your internal cablelibg through the head tube.
1 question to those who have already assembled.
The saddle elevation on the handlebars is extreme due to the negative stem. How are you coping with it? Otherwise it was 9 cm, with a spacer I am 15. I also don't want to undercut that extreme.
2nd question .. do you have a disc in between or was that how it was?
1 question to those who have already assembled.
The saddle elevation on the handlebars is extreme due to the negative stem. How are you coping with it? Otherwise it was 9 cm, with a spacer I am 15. I also don't want to undercut that extreme.
2nd question .. do you have a disc in between or was that how it was?
I think the 3.5cm of spacers that the frame comes with are about enough for the steerer safety - if you need more, it may be that the frame is too small, or that the frame's geometry is not good for you/your needs. For instance, I ordered a 56cm (182cm), which would have been aggressive but still "friendly", but I received a 54cm by mistake, which is fine but with a 2cm shorter head tube making it much more aggressive.
About the disc, it doesn't look like it belongs there. What's the purpose of it?
Assembly from the bottom-up: fork, fork race, bottom bearing, head tube, top bearing, compression ring, headset cover, (spacers), handlebar. Obvs the expander plug goes in the fork steerer ;)
I feel like I’m turning into “micro spacer guy” :-)
It’s a common issue with these builds it seems. Easily solved luckily with some micro spacers to create a little gap between the stem and the frame so that you can preload the bearings.
It’s a common issue with these builds it seems. Easily solved luckily with some micro spacers to create a little gap between the stem and the frame so that you can preload the bearings.
it is exactly like that
Something like this is what you want: https://shop.fullspeedahead.com/en/spacers/road-mtb/micro-spacer (https://shop.fullspeedahead.com/en/spacers/road-mtb/micro-spacer)
1. Steerer tube length. You have to cut the tube at least a few millimeters below where the bottom of your top cover is going to sit. They say a couple of millimeters below the top cover, but it really does depend on the depth of your top cover. If you don't have enough room under the top cover, you can't load the headset because the top cover will bottom out against the top of the compression plug. In the video, I seriously doubt he cut the tube short enough.
you can test that very quickly, the Ahead cap never comes into contact with the expander
(http://abload.de/img/clipboard-su9148xvjvu.jpg)
Is your expander that far down the steerer tube below your spacers? Is the top of your steerer tube above the top of your stem? How long is your top cap bolt?
I have exactly the same measurements you know and drive a Tarmac in 56 and the 168 I also ordered in 56. My friend has the same measurements but a long upper body who drives 58..is not that easySo I can suppose 58 would be more comfy and 56 more racing, but both should fit me
I have exactly the same measurements you know and drive a Tarmac in 56 and the 168 I also ordered in 56. My friend has the same measurements but a long upper body who drives 58..is not that easy
I have now put all the spacers underneath. I see that quite often in the photos.what you mean for extreme? Do you know how much drop you have between saddle and bar?
The geometry is from Spezialized so I can handle it well, but the HB 11 handlebar is extreme.
the HB 10 is not as steep as the HB 11Thank you so much! I'll go with 56, Chris suggest 56 as well, I hope it will be all right
the HB 1 is more aero
(http://abload.de/img/clipboard-mv9928dwkmm.jpg)
56 is correct, it is not due to the frame
in color or matt blackMatt Black, i dont want to wait for the paint job, and Matt black is lighter and cheaper, I opened a thread about the bike, I'll post picture when I'll have it at home
So, I was dry fitting parts, and noticed that the tiny holes on the stem designed to line up with the spacers are set too close.
This means I cannot get my handlebars flush with the spacer.
Has anyone else experienced this?
So, I was dry fitting parts, and noticed that the tiny holes on the stem designed to line up with the spacers are set too close.
This means I cannot get my handlebars flush with the spacer.
Has anyone else experienced this?
Make sure the bolts on the handlebar are completely loosened up. If they are tightened just a bit it will be much harder to mount.
A quick return of experience after some rides, during the last one I lost one part of the bike who is holding the derailleur hanger >:( >:(
(https://nsm09.casimages.com/img/2021/08/25//21082506455220397117541096.png) (https://www.casimages.com/i/21082506455220397117541096.png.html)
I imagine there was not loctite on this scerw, so it is essential to put some on it to prevent this problem.
(https://nsm09.casimages.com/img/2021/08/25//21082506455220397117541095.png) (https://www.casimages.com/i/21082506455220397117541095.png.html)
I've ask to Chris to send me this set of spare parts, I'm wating his reply.
The exact same issue was raised in the VB-R-099 thread a few days ago. Definitely going to loctite mine when the frame arrives! I also asked Chris to ensure there were spares in the box with the frame and he charged me 5usd for this.Just bought this frame, should I do something before using it?
Just bought this frame, should I do something before using it?You should apply some loctite on the thead of the screw, surrounded in red on the previous picture.
A quick return of experience after some rides, during the last one I lost one part of the bike who is holding the derailleur hanger >:( >:(
(https://nsm09.casimages.com/img/2021/08/25//21082506455220397117541096.png) (https://www.casimages.com/i/21082506455220397117541096.png.html)
I imagine there was not loctite on this scerw, so it is essential to put some on it to prevent this problem.
(https://nsm09.casimages.com/img/2021/08/25//21082506455220397117541095.png) (https://www.casimages.com/i/21082506455220397117541095.png.html)
I've ask to Chris to send me this set of spare parts, I'm wating his reply.
You should apply some loctite on the thead of the screw, surrounded in red on the previous picture.Thanks!
A quick return of experience after some rides, during the last one I lost one part of the bike who is holding the derailleur hanger >:( >:(
(https://nsm09.casimages.com/img/2021/08/25//21082506455220397117541096.png) (https://www.casimages.com/i/21082506455220397117541096.png.html)
I imagine there was not loctite on this scerw, so it is essential to put some on it to prevent this problem.
(https://nsm09.casimages.com/img/2021/08/25//21082506455220397117541095.png) (https://www.casimages.com/i/21082506455220397117541095.png.html)
I've ask to Chris to send me this set of spare parts, I'm wating his reply.
My suspicion is that if you change the wheel enough that thing will loosen up without Loctite, since I get a lot of flats in my region and I use a smart trainer, I remove the rear wheel many times a week.That's not my case, I never removed the rear wheel since I built the bike.
Finally finished my build, and of course it a rainy day ;DSoo beautiful!!
After a couple of rides I'll give some impressions and specs, with some better pictures.
(https://i.imgur.com/MKwL5nj.jpg?1)
Soo beautiful!!
I'm looking forward to receive mine :)
How tall are you and what's the size of the bike? It looks how you have a huge drop between saddle and bar
Thank you! :)I ordered 56 with 420/100 handlebar, I am 183cm with 88.5cm inseam, hope it's gonna fit well
This is a size 58. Handlebar is a 420/110.
I'm 191cm with longer limbs and shorter torso. Drop is quite deep and it has taken some years of cycling to achieve it but its also helped by my longer arms.
I ordered 56 with 420/100 handlebar, I am 183cm with 88.5cm inseam, hope it's gonna fit well
58 would almost certainly have been to long.So happy to hear that :)
Reach is almost non-adjustable. You can slide you seat back a forth a bit but its the wrong way of doing it. The only real solution is a new handlebar.
Stack is more flexible with spacers. You can start high and remove a few over time if you feel more confident.
Im pretty sure 56 was the right choice.
Finally finished my build, and of course it a rainy day ;D
After a couple of rides I'll give some impressions and specs, with some better pictures.
With my Tarmac I have a saddle elevation of 8 cm size 56 here it is 12 cm because the handlebar angle is negative
(http://abload.de/img/clipboard-hp9928o9kxk.jpg)
My build is going great but I realize I do not have quick release axles. The axles that came with the frame appear to need an allen wrench. Is this what you all got? How do I find the right size quick release to order?
(http://abload.de/img/clipboard-af5660p6jaa.jpg)
That's pretty cool, who sells those?
Hi,
With the integrated handlebar, which phone support do you use ? ? ?
I'd like to have a garmin like mount in order to use my 6 inch phone. and the support
I currently use cannot be installed on the integrated handlebar
The one I currently use is this one. So I basically glue a garmin adaptor to my phone case in order to use that support
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001525669781.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.27424c4dsZ6Ndd
(https://ae01.alicdn.com/kf/Hefb4ad21360b4037a06a8da49563b09b1.jpg?width=1000&height=1000&hash=2000)
Thank you! :)
This is a size 58. Handlebar is a 420/110.
I'm 191cm with longer limbs and shorter torso. Drop is quite deep and it has taken some years of cycling to achieve it but its also helped by my longer arms.
You aren’t kidding! I saw that saddle height and thought maybe it was a smaller frame.
But at 191 with
With a 58 frame, that’s an insanely high saddle height! Even at 191cm
Have you had the first ride yet?
With my Tarmac I have a saddle elevation of 8 cm size 56 here it is 12 cm because the handlebar angle is negativeHi <I noticed from your photo that you have the Seatpost Wedge Cover. Did you buy it or was it already included in the frame?
(http://abload.de/img/clipboard-hp9928o9kxk.jpg)
A quick return of experience after some rides, during the last one I lost one part of the bike who is holding the derailleur hanger >:( >:(
I've ask to Chris to send me this set of spare parts, I'm wating his reply.
I ordered a vb-r-168 frame this week with custom paint light metallic silver.
Size 58cm, my saddle height is 79cm.. I had doubts between 56 or 58, but my current bike has stack 586 and I also use spacers, so I prefer to go with 58. Also, I think it would be too much exposed seatpost in size 56 (only 496mm of seattube).
Chris told me that the frame is in stock and he is arranging for the paint, 10-14 days. Will see the times :).
Thanks all for sharing your experiences, amazing info!
Mine has been shipped on 28th of August, the tracking is still giving no information about it, it just says "info transmitted to DPD" that's it
Same with mine, I spoke to Chris and he explained that part 1 of the shipping, out of China, is managed by WXY Logistics (I think), he gave me a separate tracking code for WXY which showed a more detailed tracking process.Thanks so much for explaining, mine has to arrive in Italy, so probably I will see it next week, I'm looking forward to receive it
DPD only took charge of the package once it had cleared customs here in the Netherlands, once they had the package the DPD link was updated with relevant tracking info.
**EDIT**
For comparison my frame was shipped on 23/08 and delivered to the Netherlands 07/09 with no additional customs to pay via WXY/DPD. Unfortunately I'm out of the country so have not actually seen the frame yet, I get back on 14/09 and can't wait to unpack it.
In my case is for Spain.I got it ud black, cheaper, lighter, and shipped faster
But I’ve to wait before for the custom paint… by your comments the paint could be 10 days or 2 month
In my case is for Spain.
But I’ve to wait before for the custom paint… by your comments the paint could be 10 days or 2 month
Thanks to this, I've got mine checked before it's too late. They are quite loose, so I applied some threadlocker just now.
Interestingly, I've got a spare inside the frameset package box. Probably a bonus?
the question is : is it the same thing : BBR60 and BB86 ????
Hi,
On the page of velobuild, the spec for VB-R-168 Frame show a bttom bracket : BB86
I want to build with the ultegra groupset, that comes with the BBR60.
the question is : is it the same thing : BBR60 and BB86 ????
If not what bottom brakcet I have to buy to fit the Shimano Ultegra R8000 Chainset - 11 Speed ?
note: why bottom bracket so complex for no reasons !?
Thanks
finished the Bild today
everything fits perfekt, quality of the Painting is top
used a sram force Etap Got it from my local bike dealer, 1 month delivery shorter than the frame
torx for the axle is 40 sorry for the confusion,
hope i can fo for a first ride tomorrow
Question.
Noticed a couple lines within under the paint on the left side of the fork.
Is this an issue or not? Is it maybe excess carbon to reinforce the area around the brake? Do you 168 forks have something similar?(if you do, I am assuming it is part of the manufacturing)
Yo can use the Shomano SM-BB7241 bottom bracket for the R8000 in BB86
In fact i just notie this frame is press fit.
I am not really into press fit and really prefer threaded.
Does this frame has an option for threaded ?
Just checked my fork and can't see anything on the left hand fork leg that looks like 2x lines on yours.
Hi there,Slipping seatpost!! My problem for quite some time.
what do you do against the sliding seat post ???? ::)
Slipping seatpost!! My problem for quite some time.
I've tried carbon paste, but it didn't work because the problem was that there's not enough contact area between the wedge and the seatpost.
My current solution is using a pure aluminium plate. I cut the plate so it's covering the wedge with enough margins and slip it between the wedge and the post. The plate increases contact area. And I use pure aluminium as it's pretty soft so it reduces the chance to damage the seatpost.
Great idea,mine is 0.3mm. 0.5mm should work.
how thick is the sheet ... 0.5 mm ?
mine is 0.3mm. 0.5mm should work.
Slipping seatpost!! My problem for quite some time.
I've tried carbon paste, but it didn't work because the problem was that there's not enough contact area between the wedge and the seatpost.
My current solution is using a pure aluminium plate. I cut the plate so it's covering the wedge with enough margins and slip it between the wedge and the post. The plate increases contact area. And I use pure aluminium as it's pretty soft so it reduces the chance to damage the seatpost.
Are you all using integrated handlebar of velobuild?
I ordered without handlebar because I prefer to use stem+handlebar… I’m 85kg and I think is a more rigid option.
My idea is use or FSA SMR stem with ACR system or Deda Superbox stem.
https://www.bike24.es/i/mb/b3/58/d2/fsa-smr-stem-6-degrees-932944.jpg
https://hollandbikeshop.com/img/prod/deda-superbox-potencia-a-head-1-1-8-o31-7mm-90mm-alu-negro-8052783488041-11-l.jpg
Are you all using integrated handlebar of velobuild?
I ordered without handlebar because I prefer to use stem+handlebar… I’m 85kg and I think is a more rigid option.
My idea is use or FSA SMR stem with ACR system or Deda Superbox stem.
https://www.bike24.es/i/mb/b3/58/d2/fsa-smr-stem-6-degrees-932944.jpg
https://hollandbikeshop.com/img/prod/deda-superbox-potencia-a-head-1-1-8-o31-7mm-90mm-alu-negro-8052783488041-11-l.jpg
Yo can use the Shomano SM-BB7241 bottom bracket for the R8000 in BB86
By installing and uninstalling a pressfit BB, I am convernaned that the fit will become loose with the time ??
Something like this?
Interesting. How is that working for you?
I can't say I've had any issues with slipping. I am running quite a high post, and I am not particularly light (85kg). I have the bolt torqued to just over 2NM
I've marked it with crayon to pick up any slippage.
However, my seatpost is painted. Almost wondering if that thin layer of paint is enough to put the post within tolerance. Seems like slipping occurs more often than not
Have you seen VeloBuild have released a separate Bar/Stem combo that works with all their frames? It was only released in the last 2 days and is on their site here: http://www.velobuild.com/products/2021-new-carbon-handlebar-with-separate-stem
Hi! I'm new here. I have ordered this frame from velobuild, and it is going to arrive any day. My question is for any of you guys who did a sram etap axs build. What bottom bracket did you use? I am reading that bb86 frames mixed with dub crankset is less than optimal do to the necessity of using thinner bearings. I'm looking at the token ninja vs the sram dub. Any negative experience with the dub cranksets in this frame? Thanks
Hi! I'm new here. I have ordered this frame from velobuild, and it is going to arrive any day. My question is for any of you guys who did a sram etap axs build. What bottom bracket did you use? I am reading that bb86 frames mixed with dub crankset is less than optimal do to the necessity of using thinner bearings. I'm looking at the token ninja vs the sram dub. Any negative experience with the dub cranksets in this frame? Thanksyou need this for dub https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07NP2GCNN
Hi! I'm new here. I have ordered this frame from velobuild, and it is going to arrive any day. My question is for any of you guys who did a sram etap axs build. What bottom bracket did you use? I am reading that bb86 frames mixed with dub crankset is less than optimal do to the necessity of using thinner bearings. I'm looking at the token ninja vs the sram dub. Any negative experience with the dub cranksets in this frame? Thanks
Hey guys, first post. Looking for a size recommendation with this frame before I order. I am 5'8" on a 54 Cannondale Supersix Evo right now, with 100mm stem, 0 offset seatpost.
VBR-168 has a 4mm longer reach, but effective top tube is 4mm shorter. Good there. However VBR-168 has that 20mm offset seatpost, so that will throw things off. Contemplating ordering a 52, but not sure how the much lower stack height on the 52 will come into play. Appreciate the advice!
Geo Comparison:
https://geometrygeeks.bike/compare/cannondale-supersix-evo-2013-54,velobuild-vb-r-168-2021-54,velobuild-vb-r-168-2021-52/
However VBR-168 has that 20mm offset seatpost, so that will throw things off.
Hey guys, first post. Looking for a size recommendation with this frame before I order. I am 5'8" on a 54 Cannondale Supersix Evo right now, with 100mm stem, 0 offset seatpost.In my opinion, your size is 54
VBR-168 has a 4mm longer reach, but effective top tube is 4mm shorter. Good there. However VBR-168 has that 20mm offset seatpost, so that will throw things off. Contemplating ordering a 52, but not sure how the much lower stack height on the 52 will come into play. Appreciate the advice!
Geo Comparison:
https://geometrygeeks.bike/compare/cannondale-supersix-evo-2013-54,velobuild-vb-r-168-2021-54,velobuild-vb-r-168-2021-52/
my Velobuild with SRAM etape
(http://abload.de/img/clipboard-gc8352y3k80.jpg)
Are you all using integrated handlebar of velobuild?
I ordered without handlebar because I prefer to use stem+handlebar… I’m 85kg and I think is a more rigid option.
My idea is use or FSA SMR stem with ACR system or Deda Superbox stem.
https://www.bike24.es/i/mb/b3/58/d2/fsa-smr-stem-6-degrees-932944.jpg
https://hollandbikeshop.com/img/prod/deda-superbox-potencia-a-head-1-1-8-o31-7mm-90mm-alu-negro-8052783488041-11-l.jpg
that's perfect
(http://abload.de/img/clipboard-hp8352q2jzn.jpg)
my Velobuild with SRAM etape
(http://abload.de/img/clipboard-gc8352y3k80.jpg)
Actually nothing special. The SRAM RED etape is expensive and light
FRAME 56
(http://abload.de/img/clipboard-dl26085djei.jpg)
I’ve received my frame and started the build. However, I’m having a lot of trouble with the internal routing. My specific question is whether I have to get the shifter cable housing inside the frame or not?
Yes, the shifter cable housing is internally routed in the frame.
You may be best served starting with the handlebar routing first, then routing through the headset and frame.
I did it the other way around, which equates to a lot of time faffing around with the handlebars.
Others may have better advice, but using inner cables as a guide worked really well for me
For the front derailleur, I would thread the cable through the shifters and housing once you’ve routed the housing through the handlebars and dry fitted the shifters
Then the inner cable can used as a guide to get the FD housing in position
Ok, thank you! I'm assuming the brake housing goes through as well? I'm having a hard time clamping down the handlebar with all four cable housing coming out of the spacer hole. I'll be trying again soon.
Yep! The housing (brake and shifter) run the entire length from shifters to their respective spots.
So, in the frame you will have 3 cables running down the headtube, then down the downtube, and one cable running down the head tube and through the fork
The handlebars gave me a headache as well. That 90 degree bend…
Ok thank you so much! One last question I’m having is whether I need to get the housing out of the front derailleur hole. It seems rather small and I’m wondering if only the cable needs to go through.Just the cable. The housing stopped inside the frame.
Hi,
I very much enjoy the experience and knowledge shared on this thread. This is my first time posting on here.
I recently purchased a VB-R-168 frame, VB 60mm wheels, and 105 disc groupset. It has been coming together nicely, however, I installed the press fit BB and went to install the cranks but noticed a slight rubbing on the chainstay from one of the chainring bolts on the drive side of the crank. I purchased a kit of (10) 1mm spacer rings to hold the crank away from the frame (I hope to only need 2-3 of the spacers). Has anyone else had this issue? Is the method I am using the best option to remedy the situation?
Thanks in advance!
(I am looking to do a complete review once it all comes together and I get some riding time in)
Picture? I am having a hard time visualizing the chainring bolt rubbing the chainstay. With a standard part like a 105 crank their ought to be no need for a spacer
are these 3 chainrings?
I recently purchased a VB-R-168 frame, VB 60mm wheels, and 105 disc groupset. It has been coming together nicely, however, I installed the press fit BB and went to install the cranks but noticed a slight rubbing on the chainstay from one of the chainring bolts on the drive side of the crank. I purchased a kit of (10) 1mm spacer rings to hold the crank away from the frame (I hope to only need 2-3 of the spacers). Has anyone else had this issue? Is the method I am using the best option to remedy the situation?
Of course ;) ;)
(https://nsm09.casimages.com/img/2021/08/15//21081503475720397117529236.jpg) (https://www.casimages.com/i/21081503475720397117529236.jpg.html)
The futures evolutions will be to change:
- the saddle for GELU E1 (https://gelucarboncreation.com/product/gelu-e-1/)
- Ligther expander (https://fr.aliexpress.com/item/32848007493.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.13661d63bhocu4&algo_pvid=2e8a8fdd-5c75-40b2-bfbc-2ce4332ca191&algo_exp_id=2e8a8fdd-5c75-40b2-bfbc-2ce4332ca191-21&pdp_ext_f=%7B%22sku_id%22%3A%2265607362064%22%7D) and top (https://fr.aliexpress.com/item/4000185056194.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.13661d63bhocu4&algo_pvid=2e8a8fdd-5c75-40b2-bfbc-2ce4332ca191&algo_exp_id=2e8a8fdd-5c75-40b2-bfbc-2ce4332ca191-28&pdp_ext_f=%7B%22sku_id%22%3A%2210000000686823694%22%7D)
- Lighter thrue axles (https://fr.aliexpress.com/item/1005002813771223.html?spm=a2g0o.detail.1000060.1.17b64e8fBbtOaQ&gps-id=pcDetailBottomMoreThisSeller&scm=1007.13339.169870.0&scm_id=1007.13339.169870.0&scm-url=1007.13339.169870.0&pvid=7722115b-4379-4fee-9400-9ecc4bbaf414&_t=gps-id:pcDetailBottomMoreThisSeller,scm-url:1007.13339.169870.0,pvid:7722115b-4379-4fee-9400-9ecc4bbaf414,tpp_buckets:668%230%23131923%2343_668%230%23131923%2343_668%23888%233325%231_668%23888%233325%231_668%232846%238109%231935_668%235811%2327174%2318_668%236421%2330825%23465_668%232717%237558%23148_668%231000022185%231000066058%230_668%236808%2332771%23226_668%233468%2315616%23791_668%232846%238109%231935_668%235811%2327174%2318_668%236421%2330825%23465_668%232717%237558%23148_668%233164%239976%23882_668%236808%2332771%23226_668%233468%2315616%23791&&pdp_ext_f=%7B%22scene%22:%223339%22%7D)
- Bottle cage (https://fr.aliexpress.com/item/10000410662996.html?spm=a2g0o.detail.1000014.15.27e33859DYhNy8&gps-id=pcDetailBottomMoreOtherSeller&scm=1007.13338.183346.0&scm_id=1007.13338.183346.0&scm-url=1007.13338.183346.0&pvid=098f6a00-5423-4d01-8d90-ce928d981b85&_t=gps-id:pcDetailBottomMoreOtherSeller,scm-url:1007.13338.183346.0,pvid:098f6a00-5423-4d01-8d90-ce928d981b85,tpp_buckets:668%230%23131923%2394_668%23888%233325%231_3338%230%23183346%230_3338%233142%239890%234_668%232846%238109%231935_668%235811%2327174%2318_668%236421%2330825%23465_668%232717%237558%23148_668%231000022185%231000066058%230_668%236808%2332771%23226_668%233422%2315392%23346&&pdp_ext_f=%7B%22scene%22:%2223416%22%7D)
- Tubes by wolfpack (https://wolfpack-tires.com/produkt/tpu-schlauch-ventillaenge-aktuell-40-mm/)
I should win 250gr
Tahnks for the table very interesting !!
What is the currency of the price of your table ?
| Parts | Price |
| Kit VB R 168 | 599€ |
| Wheelset AR465 Flyweight | 1247€ |
| Tires CONTINENTAL GP 5000 | 90€ |
| Brakes Juin Tech GT F | 220€ |
| Brake Discs ASHIMA Ai2 | 40€ |
| Saddle TUNE Speedneedle | 180€ |
| Pedals Chinese SPEEDPLAY Titanium | 70€ |
| Groupset mix of SRAM | ≃ 650€ |
Hello all,mine will arrive in a couple of days, I've order it the 27 august
Chris told me yesterday that my frame is finished, but we have to wait for the stem, I hope he can ship all on monday.
This is mine: http://www.velobuild.com/products/vb-r-168-light-weight-carbon-road-bike-frame-pearl-white-glossy
Can't wait for it :( ... hope the shipping will be fast.
It's difficult to give you a precise price, because a lot of parts come from my previous build or second hand.
Parts Price Kit VB R 168 599€ Wheelset AR465 Flyweight 1247€ Tires CONTINENTAL GP 5000 90€ Brakes Juin Tech GT F 220€ Brake Discs ASHIMA Ai2 40€ Saddle TUNE Speedneedle 180€ Pedals Chinese SPEEDPLAY Titanium 70€ Groupset mix of SRAM ≃ 650€
Thus in this configuration, little bit more of 3000€
Thanks.
I was asking because in your original table, you wrote Cadre Velobuild VBR168: 1225
I was wondering why the frame cost so much : 1225
That table shows the weight of items in grams, not the cost :)
I've just spent a bit more time weighing mine and checking what was included in the delivery, and the breakdown is attached for reference. Note that my frame is a size small (52) and is gloss painted. I would assume a simple UD matte finish would come in a bit lighter.
In my spares bag I had 1x rear derailleur hanger inc. bolt, 2x rear axle threaded inserts and 1x front axle threaded insert (charged additional $5 USD), 2x large plastic computer mount spacers (around 6mm long), 1x small computer mount spacer (around 3mm long).Would have liked a few more extras but hey ho.
Hi everyone! I was very close to finishing the build today. All was left was the press fit bottom bracket. As I don’t have a tool, I used a bolt, nuts and washers. However, as I was pushing it in, the bracket was misaligned and now it crooked. I do not know how to realign it. Do I need to remove it and try again? If so, how do I remove it without damaging the frame? I heard I need to hit it quite hard and im afraid it might crack the frame.
Thanks!
Hi everyone! I was very close to finishing the build today. All was left was the press fit bottom bracket. As I don’t have a tool, I used a bolt, nuts and washers. However, as I was pushing it in, the bracket was misaligned and now it crooked. I do not know how to realign it. Do I need to remove it and try again? If so, how do I remove it without damaging the frame? I heard I need to hit it quite hard and im afraid it might crack the frame.
Thanks!
Hi everyone! I was very close to finishing the build today. All was left was the press fit bottom bracket. As I don’t have a tool, I used a bolt, nuts and washers. However, as I was pushing it in, the bracket was misaligned and now it crooked. I do not know how to realign it. Do I need to remove it and try again? If so, how do I remove it without damaging the frame? I heard I need to hit it quite hard and im afraid it might crack the frame.
Thanks!
hope you will be able to correcct it !
the BB press fit is the main reason i am still hesitating to buy this frame !!!
Threaded is so simple are full proof
Just get one of these, it's a BB86 press fit bottom bracket, however the BB shell threads into itself, so works in the same way as a normal threaded BB. Problem solved.
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mLzfSFV (https://a.aliexpress.com/_mLzfSFV)
Hi,
Does this frame had a drain hole at the bottom of the bottom bracket to let water drain ?
On the pictures of velobuild website, I dont see any hole in the close up picture of the BB hole .
Tanks
My build is about 90% complete! I'm at the step of cutting the seatpost since it's way too high for me right now. I was wondering if its bad to have the seatpost sit on its maximum depth. Meaning the seatpost is all the way down in the tube. Would it cause damage to the frame over time?
I ordered a vb-r-168 frame this week with custom paint light metallic silver.
Size 58cm, my saddle height is 79cm.. I had doubts between 56 or 58, but my current bike has stack 586 and I also use spacers, so I prefer to go with 58. Also, I think it would be too much exposed seatpost in size 56 (only 496mm of seattube).
Chris told me that the frame is in stock and he is arranging for the paint, 10-14 days. Will see the times :).
Thanks all for sharing your experiences, amazing info!
I have the same issue... my preferred saddle height is 77cm. I am afraid of being beyond the minimum insert line on a 56 .. anyone have a solution?
Hey All!I ordered with separated handlebar-stem option, but I’m waiting delivery
New member and first post in this forum. I've done my best to research this entire thread prior. Thanks for all the details.
Has anyone built up a 168 frame using the "2021 Handlebar With Separate Stem" combo instead of the supplied integrated handlebars?
The integrated handlebar options don't work me, as I need longer stem and narrow width bars (120mm / 40mm). Just wondering if internal cable routing will still work.
I plan to order a size 56 frame. For reference I am 6 feet tall (183cm). Long legs/arms, short torso. Wingspan is 6'3" (190cm)
Currently I own an Allez Sprint size 56 running a 130mm -17 stem 8)
Thanks in advance!
I ordered with separated handlebar-stem option, but I’m waiting delivery
You will definitely tell us the weight, the aero handlebar is very, very lightSure! . This aero handlebar is very nice, problem for me is the -17 degree
(http://abload.de/img/clipboard-cc8512vwkyg.jpg)
Sure! . This aero handlebar is very nice, problem for me is the -17 degree
Sure! . This aero handlebar is very nice, problem for me is the -17 degree
I finally did it! I was sweating bullets but managed to tighten it correctly. I heard three loud bangs that scared me a little but I believe nothing was damaged
Hey All!
New member and first post in this forum. I've done my best to research this entire thread prior. Thanks for all the details.
Has anyone built up a 168 frame using the "2021 Handlebar With Separate Stem" combo instead of the supplied integrated handlebars?
The integrated handlebar options don't work me, as I need longer stem and narrow width bars (120mm / 40mm). Just wondering if internal cable routing will still work.
I plan to order a size 56 frame. For reference I am 6 feet tall (183cm). Long legs/arms, short torso. Wingspan is 6'3" (190cm)
Currently I own an Allez Sprint size 56 running a 130mm -17 stem 8)
Thanks in advance!
Does anyone know which integrated bar or bar/stem has the eleast amount of flex?
I have the HB011 on the Flex doesn't bother at all. that is overrated
Are we talking about the HB010 and HB011 from OG evkin, or vélo build?
I can't seem to find them on the velobuild website
I just purchased one of these smaller headset expander plugs in an attempt to save a few grams https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002091371858.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.78e74c4d2cuvam and then noticed that in the info circulating about the upcoming SL7 headset recall, one of the pieces they are going to be providing is a new expander plug.
I know the 168 has a different headset design however is there a reason for concern with these smaller plugs?
https://www.cyclingnews.com/news/specialized-set-to-issue-stop-ride-and-recall-on-tarmac-sl7/
I’m trying to find this seatpost clamp cover:
https://www.stouwdam.nl/en/specialized-stp-my21-tarmac-sl7-seatpost-wedge-513
Problem is thatin this page the shipping for spain is 39€ ☹️.
Do anyone knows other website to buy it? I cannot find ..
I'm all for losing weight and am trying to do it as much as possible with my 168, however there is no way I'd trust such a small and light expander on a carbon steerer tubed fork, especially for the sake of 30g of weight saving.
There's no science behind this and its my opinion only, however I'd put the longer, stock expander back in if only for peace of mind.
I'm all for losing weight and am trying to do it as much as possible with my 168, however there is no way I'd trust such a small and light expander on a carbon steerer tubed fork, especially for the sake of 30g of weight saving.
There's no science behind this and its my opinion only, however I'd put the longer, stock expander back in if only for peace of mind.
I used the Spezialized expander, it is sufficiently long and light and serves as counter pressure for tensioning.
The recall relates to the inner rings on the SL7 which are too sharp-edged
(http://abload.de/img/clipboard-hp45849hjmw.jpg)
(http://abload.de/img/clipboard-uk4584vzjcy.jpg)
I used the Spezialized expander, it is sufficiently long and light and serves as counter pressure for tensioning.
The recall relates to the inner rings on the SL7 which are too sharp-edged
(http://abload.de/img/clipboard-hp45849hjmw.jpg)
(http://abload.de/img/clipboard-uk4584vzjcy.jpg)
Is included a expander in the vb-r-168 frameset? or do I need to order one?
Still waiting my frame.. I ordered 29th sept and tracking shows that now is in Belgium and custom clearence is ended. If is in europe, hope I’ll have at home (spain) in a few days..
Hah, I ordered 15th of Sept and the shipping number (DPD) still shows nothing. What shipping method did you pick?DPD. You don’t view anything in DPD tracking until the parcel is in you area, after customs clearing. Before that, you can track in wxy-express, but note that is a different tracking numbre. You can ask Chris for both numbers.
I'm all for losing weight and am trying to do it as much as possible with my 168, however there is no way I'd trust such a small and light expander on a carbon steerer tubed fork, especially for the sake of 30g of weight saving.
There's no science behind this and its my opinion only, however I'd put the longer, stock expander back in if only for peace of mind.
Hi all! I have been lurking this thread for the past few months while deciding if I should go ahead with building my own bike, and whether to get it from Velobuild. Really helpful tips so far and definitely helped with my decision to make the purchase! I finally decided order a VB-R-168 from Chris, in Matte Chameleon Green colour. I thought it would be useful to share my experience and two-cents on the bike building process. It was one rewarding experience to finally be out riding on your self-build bike!Really nice build !
Size: 52
Groupset: Ultegra R8000 Hydraulic
Disc: RT800 140mm Front and Rear
Handlebar: 400mm/90mm
Wheelset: From Taobao 60mm Depth with Hubsmith hubs
Tires: GP5000 TL
Saddle: AliExpress power saddle lookalike
Pedals: AliExpress Lollipop pedals
Weight: 8.2+Kg there about
The building of the bike was not too difficult, just gotta do research and watch youtube for bike building process, tips and tricks, note the torque settings of the various components. The most tedious of all would be the internal routing. I routed the cables through the handlebars first, followed by the rest of the routing through the frame. Used an old brake wire to help with the guiding of cables through the respective cable holes.
The FD cable stop was some what tricky, I had to file off the edges to get the cable to fit in to the hole. There is a small bracket to secure the FD cable stop into, it is rather flimsy and mine broke off. I had to fit it back into the frame from the bottom bracket hole, and screw the cable stop into the bracket. (sorry i didnt have pictures to explain it better).
Another problem I had was that the headset compression ring not being able to sit squarely into the bearing, I had to squeeze the compression ring inwards a little (with a lil force) for it to sit properly into the bearing. Otherwise there would be large gap between the headset spacer and frame.
Otherwise, rest of the installation was rather smooth!
This is my first full carbon bike with deep wheels, so I cant exactly do any comparison. In general the bike rides really well, with much better handling, and maintains speed better. Overall very happy with the whole build!
Really nice build !The wheels are from this Chinese seller on Taobao, Timibike. They are able to customise various combinations, went with them as they were the only few offering the hubsmith hubs (really loud hubs) so far they are rather smooth. Can't attest to its logetivity yet.
What are the wheels ?
I also have a question around cable routing, specifically on the HB011 bar, how are you guys doing this?
- Are you using the exit holes that are to the left and right of the computer mount (Example A image)
- Are you using the single hole that is near the steerer tube (Example B image)
- Are you using a mix of both, such as gear cables exit the steerer tube holes, brake cables (I'm running cable discs) exiting the computer mount holes
I'm just collating all of the parts I need for the build and am trying to visual how I'm going to put it all together :)
I will make full build post. hopefully within a week.
I ran the 4 cables via the large opening of bars. I figured there would be less tight bends. Plus I wanted fully internal.
Fork
I ran two housings left and two right of fork. One housing on right going into the fork. If you run housings same direction around fork it wants to pull and or pinch. I ran cables into housings before fully compressing everything.
I slammed the stem no spacers needed and I used jagwire keb-sl and lex cables.
I had no clue a 9t sprocket top gear was compatible with Shimano 11-Speed. Lovely build!Yeah, it works.
Finished!! All was fine, but the internal cabling thru the stem-handlebar is not easy…at the end looks great. I’ll ride tomorrow to test it, will see how it works.
Info: this bike shares geometry with SL7, but the seatpost has little seatback.. have in mind to fit.
- Velobuild frame VB-R-168 size 58.
- Velobuild integrated stem+handlebar 110/440
- Ultegra 8020-8070
- Crankset Rotor 3D+ 1x (42t)
- Cassette leonardi 9-36
- wheels serenade 45mm (28mm witdth) tubular
- 7,6kg with pedals and bottle cages.
Nice build! The 1x idea for road is starting to intrigue me more.Oh my god! really? :(. Didn’t have idea it can happen
The reason I completed a168 build recently is because I cracked my aero Workswell frame by clamping down the top tube on a work stand and feel obliged to mention this as I've learned that you should clamp at the seat post always to avoid this eek!
Finished!! All was fine, but the internal cabling thru the stem-handlebar is not easy…at the end looks great. I’ll ride tomorrow to test it, will see how it works.
Info: this bike shares geometry with SL7, but the seatpost has little seatback.. have in mind to fit.
- Velobuild frame VB-R-168 size 58.
- Velobuild integrated stem+handlebar 110/440
- Ultegra 8020-8070
- Crankset Rotor 3D+ 1x (42t)
- Cassette leonardi 9-36
- wheels serenade 45mm (28mm witdth) tubular
- 7,6kg with pedals and bottle cages.
very very nice bike !!I have to say that I ordered the stem+handlebar woth doubts, because it looks strange in the velobuild photos.. but I’m very very happy how looks the bike with this option.
Can you take photos of the stem with handlebars again because of the optics and how you laid the cables?
thanks
I have to say that I ordered the stem+handlebar woth doubts, because it looks strange in the velobuild photos.. but I’m very very happy how looks the bike with this option.
I am 189cm (6´2"-6´3") tall and i really have doughts if the 58cm frame will be to small for me.What’s your saddle height? In this bike is one of the most important.
For the SL7 they do recommend a 61cm frame.
Any advise from you guys?
Regards
What’s your saddle height? In this bike is one of the most important.
I’m 185cm, saddle height 79, I’ve a 58 frame with 110 stem, but still have margin to make it bigger; there is seatpost margin, my saddle has margin to go back and you can put a stem of 120 or more.
In my opinion, the 58 is ok for you.
BTW, today 80km. All issues adjusted.
Very satisfied with this buid :)
Looks great! Is there another way to attach the Garmin besides a stem mount in this new handlebar? Handlebar in the middle looks round enough to still a traditional mount.I guess the traditional mount fits ok, but I prefer to have it in the stem.
BTW, today 80km. All issues adjusted.
Very satisfied with this buid :)
Finished!! All was fine, but the internal cabling thru the stem-handlebar is not easy…at the end looks great. I’ll ride tomorrow to test it, will see how it works.
Info: this bike shares geometry with SL7, but the seatpost has little seatback.. have in mind to fit.
How much Setback does the velobuild seatpost have?
Thanks
Lovely build, and great to hear you're happy with the ride!East of Spain, a small village in the Castellón province (valencian comunity). Mountains of Serra d’Espadán, is a beautiful place for ride, for sure.
Very nice setting as well, could do with some of that weather right now! Guessing it's a nice village in southern Spain?
20mm, it's the only option they have. I wish they offered a 0mm set back option.
Hey guys.. how are going your builds?
I put it the sl7 seatpost cover that I read in some posts. It fits perfect.
https://www.stouwdam.nl/en/specialized-stp-my21-tarmac-sl7-seatpost-wedge-513
Do you have a link to where you ordered the sl7 seatpost cover
Common saddle rails should have enough space to neutralize the setback, no?Yes, you could solve with saddle rails, positioning the saddle to the front.. you can correct this 2cm.
But yeah, it makes me unable to mount some saddle-rails-attached accessories like lights or something like Topeak's bags.
Hey guys.. how are going your builds?
I put it the sl7 seatpost cover that I read in some posts. It fits perfect.
Finished!! All was fine, but the internal cabling thru the stem-handlebar is not easy…at the end looks great. I’ll ride tomorrow to test it, will see how it works.
Info: this bike shares geometry with SL7, but the seatpost has little seatback.. have in mind to fit.
- Velobuild frame VB-R-168 size 58.
- Velobuild integrated stem+handlebar 110/440
- Ultegra 8020-8070
- Crankset Rotor 3D+ 1x (42t)
- Cassette leonardi 9-36
- wheels serenade 45mm (28mm witdth) tubular
- 7,6kg with pedals and bottle cages.
Very curious about this cassette, and if anyone knows where to find an aliexpress version! $429 for the Leonardi is quite steep for me, unfortunately. :o
I was looking at the 10-36 one from SROAD but I'd have to run a 48t single front chainring to get the gearing I want. Furthermore I plan to run an oval so the size will be more like a 50-51t, it's quite tough to find a frame that can clear that size chainring as a 1x setup, unless anyone has some ideas to tinker with the chainline to make this possible.
I bought a Leonardi in an ocasion semi-new, but yes, is expensive.
You have also the E Thirteen cassettes 11v of 9-34, 9-39, cheaper than Leonardi.
Have in mind that with the 9 cog you can go with chainring 42 or 44. the 42-9 is aprox the same relation that the 52-11. The 44-9 is more than 53-11. In the low side, the 42-36 is like 34-29 (more than a compact).
https://www.alltricks.es/F-11911-cassettes/P-1652017-casete_sram_xd_e_thirteen_xcx_plus_de_11_velocidades?gclid=Cj0KCQjwt-6LBhDlARIsAIPRQcJpKPx5VETc_aqRwXO5eTPD5mb9WQlIu5NLcKe7-AHAX8Ie_X0PNfAaAuouEALw_wcB
Hi Noodleshop,
So, I run a 48T, 0 offset, Narrow-Wide 1x chainring, with about 25mm of clearance (50mm of clearance in terms of chainring diameter) before the chainring would rub the chainstay.
A 48T chainring has a diameter of 200.8mm, and a 50T has a diameter of 208.8mm (delta of 8.8mm), so there would be ample room.
In terms of chainline you should be OK except in the lowest gears. I am guessing the chainline between a 48T and 50T chainring will be very similar.
I currently run a 12S 11-32T cassette. The chainline sweet spot is on the 7th gear, 48x15 (this yields 36.8kph at 90RPM)
The chainline deviation is acceptable for me (no discernable friction, no drivetrain noise) between 4th and 9th gears (25T and 14T). 3rd (28T) and 11th (12T) gears feel fine, but the deviation starts to look a bit excessive. 2nd (30T) and 12th (11T) gears have clear deviation, but does not generate any rubbing noises. 1st gear (32T) clearly is excessive, and rubbing can be heard.
I didn't actually measure anything - this is all just based on eyeball and on-the-road experience
Thanks so much 1Sigma, great to hear from someone running a similar setup! Appreciate the really detailed numbers. Sounds like there will be ample room to run the 50t oval in there!
The chainline deviation info sounds acceptable to me, where I'm at is pretty flat and I rarely find myself in the top gears. 36.8kmph at 90rpm with four gears to spare, sounds pretty ample for my speed range.
May I ask about what crank/chainring setup you are running? Still shopping around for those. I was thinking about the Zrace cranks but heard some unhappy reviews of them around here. I'd prefer the SRAM-style direct mount chainrings without a spider, but would love to hear what you're using.
ou can't really do anything wrong the whole thing is relatively simple and can be solved with an intermediate spacer ring ...
therefore the question was whether I am too stupid :-\
(http://abload.de/img/clipboard-ye91481mkhq.jpg)
Hi,
you can order this from Aliexpress. I have now put 2mm in between. There is a lot, so you have a crack. Probably 1.5 mm is enough.
https://de.aliexpress.com/item/33056428213.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.3f864c4d5ooMFw
Hi all! I have been lurking this thread for the past few months while deciding if I should go ahead with building my own bike, and whether to get it from Velobuild. Really helpful tips so far and definitely helped with my decision to make the purchase! I finally decided order a VB-R-168 from Chris, in Matte Chameleon Green colour. I thought it would be useful to share my experience and two-cents on the bike building process. It was one rewarding experience to finally be out riding on your self-build bike!
Size: 52
Groupset: Ultegra R8000 Hydraulic
Disc: RT800 140mm Front and Rear
Handlebar: 400mm/90mm
Wheelset: From Taobao 60mm Depth with Hubsmith hubs
Tires: GP5000 TL
Saddle: AliExpress power saddle lookalike
Pedals: AliExpress Lollipop pedals
Weight: 8.2+Kg there about
The building of the bike was not too difficult, just gotta do research and watch youtube for bike building process, tips and tricks, note the torque settings of the various components. The most tedious of all would be the internal routing. I routed the cables through the handlebars first, followed by the rest of the routing through the frame. Used an old brake wire to help with the guiding of cables through the respective cable holes.
The FD cable stop was some what tricky, I had to file off the edges to get the cable to fit in to the hole. There is a small bracket to secure the FD cable stop into, it is rather flimsy and mine broke off. I had to fit it back into the frame from the bottom bracket hole, and screw the cable stop into the bracket. (sorry i didnt have pictures to explain it better).
Another problem I had was that the headset compression ring not being able to sit squarely into the bearing, I had to squeeze the compression ring inwards a little (with a lil force) for it to sit properly into the bearing. Otherwise there would be large gap between the headset spacer and frame.
Otherwise, rest of the installation was rather smooth!
This is my first full carbon bike with deep wheels, so I cant exactly do any comparison. In general the bike rides really well, with much better handling, and maintains speed better. Overall very happy with the whole build!
My frame finally arrived today, ordered on the 14th of September and shipped out the 16th.Great! you will show us the result
The frame looks good! Just need to order some wheels and a groupset so I can start building!
some weights for reference, my frame is a 54 with no paint.
frame: 1150g
fork (uncut): 448g
seatpost: 237g
handlebar (400 x 90): 344g
bottlecage: 20g
Can anybody who has built up this frame with di2 shoot up some pics of how they've installed the FD cable through the cable stop?
I'm in the process of building mine up but looks like i'll either have to forgo the fd cable stop altogether (not ideal) or drill out a bigger opening to fit through the di2 cables (not ideal but probably the better option)
I drilled out the cable stop so it could pass the wire and it worked pretty well. I seems to get a lot of water that comes in to my frame when I wash it and have a feeling it may be that hole so will probably plug it with a small rubber bit soon.
The 168 will not clear 35c comfortably. I'll probably rotate but it will be very limited in clearance. The fork is the main limiting factor
33-34c is max.
Here shown with 32c WAM all-road tires
(https://i.imgur.com/3TRc0wf.jpg?1)
(https://i.imgur.com/IVXQNnw.jpg?1)
Consider the CFR-1056 as it weighs about the same, has external cable routing, and will importantly clear a 35c tire comfortably.
Hi everyone! I've been meaning to give a proper review of my build but I had to fix some issues first. Mainly, my headset was too loose and I ordered an extra spacer (didn't feel like cutting the fork again). It finally arrived and I was able to complete my first proper ride this morning (40km). I'm hoping I'll be able to enjoy it a few more times before it gets too freezing. Anyways, here is the list of parts I used for this build along with a few comments.
Ordering
- Chris from velobuild is not very quick to answer but he's helpful. I used Skype, I heard other people have better experiences by email.
- Elite Wheels take a while to ship since they build the wheels for every order. Ordering is easy and they respond quickly.
- Ordering groupsets on Aliexpress is surprisingly reliable. All parts look legit.
Building the bike
- Installing the press fit bottom bracket was a nightmare. I definitely recommend going to a bike shop for this part.
- The rest of build is fine. The hidden cable routing is honestly not that hard to complete. Just be patient. The cabling in the handlebar is probably the step that'll have you swearing the most.
- Getting the optimal tightness on the headset is not easy. I still have +-1mm of play, not sure if that's normal.
- I managed to fix the slipping post issue with a TON of carbon paste and some hockey tape. It's an annoying problem but it's definitely fixable.
Riding the bike
-My first impression is that this bike is sooo light. My reference is an aluminum Scott Speedster 10. I'm definitely faster with this bike
- The semi-hydraulic disc brakes are honestly garbage. Worse than rim brakes. I read that I needed to use compressionless housing. I might switch to that later down the road and see if it makes a difference. For now my recommendation is too spend an extra 300-600 for proper shimano hydraulic brakes. It is however manageable and you can safely brake.
- The bike feels solid and I hear no creaking or weird sounds.
- The Elite Wheels are LOUD. People are legit startled when I lay off the pedals and let the hub roll. Quite obnoxious but at least people get out of my way.
I'm definitely satisfied overall considering the price I paid. I can see myself building another Chinese carbon bike later down the road. For now I'm gonna take a break from building bikes ;D
This community is extremely helpful, I can not overstate this. I'm gonna try and give another update once I accomplish some longer rides.
The paint is the 'blue chameleon' with a matte finish :D Glad you like it.
The semi-hydraulic disc brakes are honestly garbage. Worse than rim brakes. I read that I needed to use compressionless housing. I might switch to that later down the road and see if it makes a difference. For now my recommendation is too spend an extra 300-600 for proper shimano hydraulic brakes. It is however manageable and you can safely brake.
hey guys!
i am really looking into a 168 for my new bike. But I want to be sure it's the right one for me.
I want an 'allroad' like frame, so I'd like room for bigger tires. Anybody tried 35c on they 168 ?
Also I don't like the weight and non adjustability of their handlebars. Do you think I can run an FSA 069 'SRS' headset, to have an almost full integration, with the ability of tweaking everything if I feel like it. (I attached a picture of the routing). I saw somebody do the same with their carbonda fm1056.
Of course if you see a better option that fits my criteria I'm open (road-ish geo, fits up to 35c (measured size), good cable integration (for bikepacking purposes) and good weight.
I'll keep you updated on my purchase!
For those considering a budget braking system, might want to watch Trace Velo's on the subject (link's somehow not showing. Just go to his YouTube channel and go to his latest video). https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qrD1Ln7H8H8
Here's thinking on getting a 105 full hydraulic upgrade...
Have you considered their proper all-road option, the GF-002 (http://www.velobuild.com/products/2021-velobuild-carbon-fiber-integrated-gravel-bike-frame-hidden-cables)? Especially as it got extra mounting points for panniers and extra bottle cages.
Also, I just noticed that Winowsports is also selling the same frames.
The 168 will not clear 35c comfortably. I'll probably rotate but it will be very limited in clearance. The fork is the main limiting factor
33-34c is max.
Here shown with 32c WAM all-road tires
(https://i.imgur.com/3TRc0wf.jpg?1)
(https://i.imgur.com/IVXQNnw.jpg?1)
Consider the CFR-1056 as it weighs about the same, has external cable routing, and will importantly clear a 35c tire comfortably.
Hi all, I'm new to the build. Excited to begin!
Are these the correct headset parts? Is this gap normal? I also have this other compression ring which seems to fit better with the silver spacers. I may have mixed up parts with another frame build. Oops!
Last question - Can I source this handlebar bolt assembly anywhere? Long story short, my toddler was playing around with it and stripped the threads :(
Thanks for checking!
I can't comment on the parts, however for the bolt you may be able to use:
https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/33051125724.html?spm=a2g0s.8937460.0.0.64082e0eSyQUwB (https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/33051125724.html?spm=a2g0s.8937460.0.0.64082e0eSyQUwB)
or
https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/32972924030.html?spm=a2g0s.8937460.0.0.64082e0eSyQUwB (https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/32972924030.html?spm=a2g0s.8937460.0.0.64082e0eSyQUwB)
I have measured the bolt itself and it's an M5 x 18mm with washer, and has 17mm of threads. I haven't measured the threaded nut unfortunately however I'm pretty confident the Risk option above will work.
Anyone with the separate bar/handlebar combo...
Can you please provide photos of how the internal cable routing works from the handlebars into the steer tube? The photos on the website aren't exactly clear. Is there a cable opening at the center of the handlebars, where the stem bolts attach?
Thanks...
In the separated stem handlebar option, the cable goes inside the handlebar, the handlebar has a hole to route the cables tru inside the stem and the stem has a hole also to route cables tru the headset. Like ACR system, see picture.Is it a stem provided by Velobuild ?
Anyone with the separate bar/handlebar combo...
Can you please provide photos of how the internal cable routing works from the handlebars into the steer tube? The photos on the website aren't exactly clear. Is there a cable opening at the center of the handlebars, where the stem bolts attach?
Thanks...
Is it a stem provided by Velobuild ?Yes, velobuild provides stem+handlebar.
Is it carbon and did you weight it ?
I was watching a few more video on the SL7 recall issue and decided to take the bars off my 168 to see how the steerer looked out of curiosity.
Although the SL7 issue may not apply to the 168 because it has a different integrated design (I'm not certain it doesn't apply), what did get me thinking is that the HB10 bars I received are one of the first I think and use the wedge system for tightening instead external bolts. I can see that where one of the wedge pieces tightens agains the steerer, it has created a mark/small indent. Although this part doesn't really move once fastened, I'm wondering if it's only a matter of time until a bad enough mark is made and it weakens the steerer and it fails. Is this why the HB10 moved to external bolts? ugh...
I used the Spezialized expander, it is sufficiently long and light and serves as counter pressure for tensioning.
The recall relates to the inner rings on the SL7 which are too sharp-edged
(http://abload.de/img/clipboard-hp45849hjmw.jpg)
(http://abload.de/img/clipboard-uk4584vzjcy.jpg)
Hello everybody,
thank you admin of the forum for accepting my registration, i am writing from Italy, I apologize for my non perfect English.
I ordered the frame VB-168 size 52 handlebars integrated 40/100, and are in stress, for waiting. :o
I will set up the bike with a sram group Red Etap AXS 12V, ordered in Germany and in a few days coming ::)
I can't wait to assemble everything.
I read all the pages, and thank you for all suggestions.
I ask for help to those who have already mounted brake DISC SRAM FORCE or RED:
Have you detached the pipe from the caliper or lever?
And inserted pipe from the rear frame towards fork or on the contrary?
Did you spurge?
Thanks in advance
Davide
p.s. I'll keep you updated and I'll do photos.
Hi,
mounted sram AXS force disc
detached it from the lever, you will have to shorten it anyway
started at the rear,
attention don't install the bottom bracket before finishing the brakes
use a noise protecting housing damper like this
https://www.bike-discount.de/de/capgo-noise-protection-schaumstoffhuelle-fuer-schaltzugaussenhuelle
hi
i discussed it with my mechanic, and tomorrow will show you the result.
planning to drill the steel spacer but going to buy hard plasctic one from the aliexpress which weight less
the one which comes w the frame is quite heavy
Hi everyone,
I would like to replace the screws of this brakes by titanium screws:
https://a.aliexpress.com/_uJeTee
Could someone please tell me how long should be the M6 brake's screws? I don't have access to my bike now to check.
I've replaced most of my bolts with black Ti ones, what you need is:
Steerer Clamp Bolt M5 x 18mm x2
Steerer Clamp Bolt M5 Washer x2
Front Brake bolt M5 x 16mm x2
Front Brake washer M5 Washer x2
Rear Brake bolt M5 x 35mm x2
Rear Brake washer M5 Washer x2
Seat post bolt M6 x 30mm x1
Seat post nut M6 x 20mm x1
Seat post nut M6 x 13mm x1
Seat post bolt M6 x 35mm x1
Computer MountBolt M4 x 25mm x2
Computer MountBolt M4 Washer x2
Hope this helps.
I think nobody understands what you mean
Sorry
With a drawing I can make me understand.
Sheaths or tube brake, passage right is the red up or brown down?
thank in advance
Hi all. Just want to add as a note for anyone looking to get the TT-X21 / vb-r-099 frame set. Make sure to put the seat post setback into account when measuring the top tube / reach / Handlebar length.
This also goes for any frame with a seat post that is proprietary to the frameset.
Ya, my 099 / TT-X21 seat post setback is so backward that my knees does not track with the center of my pedals at 3 O'clock pedal position. Not to mention the fact that the seat post setback makes me stretch too far forward to reach my handlebars. This was an expensive oversight when measuring the top tube and reach based on my previous road bike frame which had a zero setback seat post. Not to mention that these frames have no resale value because they are none branded. You just have to get a new frameset.
TanTan and Velobuild do not have zero setback seat post for this frame or any of their frames with a proprietary seat post.
So I am looking at getting the BXT-ROAD-115 or VB-R-177 because you can run a standard 27.2 seat post with a zero setback if you want.
Nope. No problems, but YMMV. It's a great frame. One of those "would be nice if" issues with a Chinese frame is not being able to get a bike fit before purchasing. I should probably have gone with a 54 instead of a 56, but even being on the big side, there's plenty of range to get a decent fit, for me anyway. /shrug
May I ask how tall you guys are / what’s your inseam measure?
I am also between 54 and 56 and still undecided.
168/5'6" 81/32". 49cm.how is the saddle to bar drop for you? I considered a 52 but went with 54 because of that very low stack.
I have the vb086 in 52cm and the vb168 in 49cm. Both have 100mm integrated stems.
I measure my bikes from tip of saddle to hoods. Both bikes are within .25in 5mm. The 168 handlebars have a larger drop (is it 17*?).
For the ones, that are still unhappy with the offset, an option could be to buy the original seatpost with 0 offset from Specialized.
I'm not sure about the compatibility though (anyone?):
I've tried it doesn't fit!!
Hello Davide,
this is my Velobuild 168 with SRAM RED. Like the arrows, you need to guide the cables. And as already written that first of all !!
Greetings Werner
I can't speak to whether it is safe or not to do this but I ran mine like this for a good few months and it seemed ok. Some of my di2 components may have been squished but they also seem to be ok now.
When I attempted to take out the seat post to cut it shorter for minimal weight savings, it was a bit hard to get out initially but not too difficult in the end.
Hello Werner,
Hi, did you use the one in the center of the photo for the front derailleur?
Thanks in advance
Greetings Davide
Hello Werner,
Hi, did you use the one in the center of the photo for the front derailleur?
Thanks in advance
Greetings Davide
Hello,
I just got my VB-R-168 frame and everything goes perfect except the seatpost.
It slides all the time.
http://We put 7nm but I have no idea what is the torque I should use. Tomorrow I will put some carbon paste and go a bit lower in the torque, or I will use some alloy layer from a beer can.
Do you know exactly what torque is specified for this frame?
Has anybody had the need to replace the seatpost because it didn't work well?
Thank you in advance por your help.
In my case, the seatpost fits perfect. I used a little bit of carbon paste and I haven’t had any problem.
There's so many bars on Ali express
C$ 113.76 56%OFF | 2021 NEW Aero Integrated Road Bicycle Handlebars T800 UD Carbon 380/400/420/440mm x 80/90/100/110/120mm
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mLKXMW0
Question on the integrated handlebar:
I aim for something like 90-100 stem length and 420-440mm bar width.
Problem:
The vbr168 standard integrated bar is curved and additionally enlarges the reach - this I want to avoid. Unfortunately it's also not available in e.g. 420/100.
HB011 would have come in handy at the 420/100 spec, however, Chris told me they discontinue HB011 and only have few non-420/100 left.
So what can I do to realize my dream of an integrated handlebar at 420/100?
An option could be the DengFu HB015 which seems to be identical, but I am not sure about its compatibility?
Any other ideas that are compatible with the vbr168 and are integrated (bar and stem as one mold)?
Maybe you've already noticed this but from the Velobuild geometry drawings, the reach of the curved bars (HB010) is actually 5mm shorter than the HB011 bars. So the only part that will have a longer reach is the bar tops. The break levers and the drop section should have a slightly shorter reach.
I guess it depends which part of the bars are most important to you.
Hey,
Question about the compression of the headset Do you feel the headset moving and not stable when braking?
I'm having a hard time compressing the headset on my bike. Everytime I try to compress it, the compression plug slips up. I've tried a lot of things:
* Deda and the FSA compression plug after the one that came with the bike failed. Deda seems a bit better, but still slips when compressing.
* Cleaning the steerer tube with iso alcohol
* Carbon paste
* Sanding the inside of the steerer tube a bit
* I tighned the compression plug up to 7.5N (I'm afraid of going higher as 7.5N feels quite a lot already).
No matter what I do, the compression plug slips before the bike feels stable when braking.
Should I keep riding the bike even whenthe headset doesn't feel fully compressed?
I wonder if the issue is with the compression plug, or the headset has some play even when tightned enough.
Ps.: This is my second Velobuild build. The first one feels very stable and I didn't have any issues with the headset.
When you tighten the headset, does the steering feel perfectly smooth? On mine, without the spacers, I could feel some friction, because the headset cover was rubbing slightly against the top of the frame, and no matter how much I tightened the top cap, there would still be a small amount of play in the steering.
Interesting.. I feel a little bit of play in the steering.. but is very small, so I dont care about it.
Someone has asked to Chris?
When I tighten the headset, it doesn't rub with the frame. There's actually a few millimeters between the headset and the frame. I've had that issue you mentioned with my previous Velobuild and I fixed with the same type of thin spacers.
The problem now seems like no matter how much I tighten the headset, there's some play in the steering when braking. And if I keep tightning it up, the compression plug slips up.
So I guess that's not a common occurrence for this bike? hm, I'll keep investigating what could be the issue.
Perhaps you could try a different/longer compression plug, which might have less chance of slipping? Maybe this one:
https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/deda-elementi-expander-bung/rp-prod171842?utm_source=customer-emails&utm_medium=stock-email&utm_campaign=backinstock
Or have you tried using carbon past where the handle bars clamp to the steerer tube to give some extra grip?
Another thought: Have you tried using some sort of retaining compound on the headset bearings in case they are moving within the frame?
Might be worth trying something like in this video:
https://youtu.be/IQWYPxGicjU?t=268
This is beast assembled :)
Very happy with the results. This is my second time building a fully integrated bike, and this time the process went a lot smoother. Totally worth over exposed cables. It looks stunning.
Happy biking everyone. May your builds finish without issues!
Interesting.. I feel a little bit of play in the steering.. but is very small, so I dont care about it.
Someone has asked to Chris?
Has anyone replaced the stock headset bearings with some 'premium' bearings, such as NTN, NSK, SKF, Enduro etc.? Or can you advise how your stock bearings are holding up?
I'm about to begin building my bike up and am debating swapping the bearings out in the hope that more premium bearings would last longer as I don't want the hassle of having to re-do all of the cable routing due to the stock headset bearings wearing out.
The problem is, I can't find any from a named manufacturer online in the size I need (P16 52x7x45 degrees).
Any advise would be appreciated :)
Hi guys, thank you for all your advice, here is finally my bike mounted.
Very happy final weight:7 kg pedals.
Two exits the first two hours per setup, the second over 4 hours and a drop 1600 meters, excellent sensations.
Hi all, just building up my frame and was wondering what the best way would be to fit a DI2 battery in the seattube?
I saw many solutions like wedges or rubbel plug type thingies to even just bubblewrapping the battery and stuffing it in the tube.
Any suggestions?
Thanks!
Hi guys, thank you for all your advice, here is finally my bike mounted.
Very happy final weight:7 kg pedals.
Two exits the first two hours per setup, the second over 4 hours and a drop 1600 meters, excellent sensations.
How the heck are you able to get 7 kg? WITH PEDALS what do the wheels weigh?
Nice build Dalon!Stickers I made them do, purchased in Italy. UCI it's a fake, I wrote my name 8) ;D :)
Any more details on price/weight of your components?
Did Chris put the UCI sticker?
Is the font color white or is there also some metallic in there? Can’t really tell from the photo
I've replaced most of my bolts with black Ti ones, what you need is:
Steerer Clamp Bolt M5 x 18mm x2
Steerer Clamp Bolt M5 Washer x2
Front Brake bolt M5 x 16mm x2
Front Brake washer M5 Washer x2
Rear Brake bolt M5 x 35mm x2
Rear Brake washer M5 Washer x2
Seat post bolt M6 x 30mm x1
Seat post nut M6 x 20mm x1
Seat post nut M6 x 13mm x1
Seat post bolt M6 x 35mm x1
Computer MountBolt M4 x 25mm x2
Computer MountBolt M4 Washer x2
Hope this helps.
Here you go Greenred.
Legend, Ollie. How much weight did you safe in total?
Hello Dalon,
great bike Can you post a table of your weights.
Thanks Werner
Hi guys, thank you for all your advice, here is finally my bike mounted.
Very happy final weight:7 kg pedals.
Two exits the first two hours per setup, the second over 4 hours and a drop 1600 meters, excellent sensations.
Hi guys, just an update.
I’ve solved the little play of the steerer with this expander.
https://www.lordgunbicycles.es/expander-direccion-specialized-road-mtb-carbon
BTW, more than 1.500km, still very happy!
Posted this in the VB-R-177 thread but thought I'd replicate it in here. I'd love to know the below torque settings and I'm sure it would help other users going forwards :)I like old and good mechanical of bicycles, as when the dinanometric keys did not exist, I narrowed everything without key. Just a little attention and manual skills.
If someone could fill in the blanks and/or verify my assumptions it would be greatly appreciated:
Shifter Bar Clamps - ??Nm
Steerer Tube Compression Plug - 8Nm
Steerer Tube Top Cap - ??Nm
Steer Tube Stem Clamp - 6Nm
Computer Mount - ??Nm
Front Brake Calliper - ??Nm
Front Axle - 10Nm
Front Dropout Aluminium Insert - ??Nm
Seat Post Wedge - 6Nm
Seat Clamp - 6Nm
Front Derailleur Braze On Mount - ??Nm
Rear Derailleur - ??Nm
Rear Brake Calliper - ??Nm
Rear Axle - 10Nm
Rear Dropout Aluminium Insert - ??Nm
I think that would cover everything, however if there are others you think would be helpful please add them to the list :)
Thanks in advance!
I have a couple of road races coming up with significant amounts of gravel sections, so I have been trying to maximize the tire space in the frame. The split for one race is around 15% tame gravel/85% asphalt and 45% tame gravel / 55% asphalt for the other.
I have been looking for high volume road tyres with lower rolling resistance compared to gravel tires.
I currently have Vittoria Terreno Zero's in 32c and they are very puncture resistant but noticeably slower than a road tire (as it probably should be). Very good if there is a high risk of punctures or a need for more grip.
Schwalbe have a 34c model of their Pro One Evo TLE which I picked up. I mounted them on Light Bicycle WR45's which are 25mm internal (hooked). They measure 33,5mm.
Surprisingly there is still a bit of space. Obviously they are narrower than advertised but it probably also has to do with the lack of knobs and that the wide rim gives the tire a lower profile.
I would say if you have wide rims the bike could probably handle a 35mm WAM slick tire if you can live with minimal mud clearance. Anyone wanna sponser me some Rene Herse Bon Jon Pass ;D ?
Hi guys,
Why in the Topic of the Chinese frame Velobuild VB-R-168, we talk, write about tires??
Write a new Topic, for gravel tires, so it is more visible and not hidden in that of the frame.
thanks in advance
Hi guys, thank you for all your advice, here is finally my bike mounted.
Very happy final weight:7 kg pedals.
Two exits the first two hours per setup, the second over 4 hours and a drop 1600 meters, excellent sensations.
Hi Olie, nice list. It takes some patience listing it out on that level, I know it from experience.
Now let me tell you the obvious: the more you list and measure (the more detailed it gets), the heavier your bike gets.
While some are interested in the actual weight, others are interested in impressing ppl on the internet and only measure some parts, instead of all actual parts of the bike. And: not everyone takes actual weights but many use claimed weights from what I have seen.
The handlebar tape would get lighter when cut.
Btw, wondering, which top cap replacement did you use for the integrated bars?
I'm actually still on the hunt for another top cap as I want a UD Matte finish to match the bars, as the one I bought only comes in 3K weave. I can't for the life of me find a UD Matte top cap which is a bit annoying haha.
Zdrenka89
What is the name of the color of your build?
It is this paint but in a Matte finish.
http://www.velobuild.com/products/vb-r-168-light-weight-carbon-road-bike-frameset-blue-chameleon
There is a lot of lying about the weights. Peter Sagen's bike weighs and that's important Ready to ride 7.33 kg My Velobuild weighs exactly the same size 7.49 kg. There are 50 mm high rims on it.
I only believe the 7 kg when I see an exact listing :)
(http://abload.de/img/clipboard-hg9900urkdn.jpg)
(http://abload.de/img/clipboard-sg9900mek2q.jpg)
Hey Greenred,
For sure I agree with everything you've said :)
I'm still interested to know that if they have managed to build the bike at only 7kg how they managed to do that, as I may copy some of their build ideas to try and reduce the weight of mine.
At the end of the day I'll still be more than happy with my build if I can get it down to the around the 7.8kg mark, which should be achievable with the parts I still need to order.
From what I have read, a 1kg weight saving on the bike is the equivalent to around 3-5watts. As I always ride solo I'd be better off just adjusting my body position to be more aero which would yield better gains ;)
For my top cap, I've bought this one from AliExpress: https://aliexpress.com/item/33026362844.html? (https://aliexpress.com/item/33026362844.html?)
It's the 32mm size and I bought the unbranded top cap which weighs 3g and the black bolt which weighs 7g. I think you can drop another 2g if you choose the gold or rainbow bolt as they are Ti (when I bought it I didn't really read the description and though the black was also Ti). I got the black as I've replaced all of the bolts on my 168 with black Ti bolts so wanted this to match the rest.
I'm actually still on the hunt for another top cap as I want a UD Matte finish to match the bars, as the one I bought only comes in 3K weave. I can't for the life of me find a UD Matte top cap which is a bit annoying haha.
you gotta factor in the mount, pedals, ect. i can see a few ways to shave a couple grams. one, lighter pedals. the 9100 pedals are 228g listed and you can probably shave some if you run time or look carbon keos, speedplays, while equaling weight to the system, bike weight is less. pm adds a tiny bit of weight, 140mm stem is freaking long, normally its like 110-120. mirror evo is 185g, which you can find seats for 100-125 and youre very comfortable on. so its listed at 6.8kg out of the box, but 7.1 is more realistic ready to ride. frames 800g for the sl7. its 1050 or something from velobuild? fork and seatpost are gonna be less and more respectively, so probably looking at 325-350g difference in frame weight. 51/60 wheelset so 55-56 weight, which is gonna be 1500g from any wheelset company from china, so thats like 100g there extra. also his bike is duraace di2 and yours is red etap, which red weighs more, like 150g maybe?
he bike weighs exactly 7.6kg in 58 with the pedals (weighed it myself) buddy rides it. even professionals don't rip out the last gram because they have to DRIVE it)i know! but specialized boasts "6.8 kg out the box" pedals are 200-250g either way you look at it, computer mount, bottle cages, tubeless, add another 100-200 grams. now you can only get 7.2 kg if youre a real weight weenie. can probs shave down to 7-7.2 tops if you do a lot of modifications, but like you said, you have to ride it.
(http://abload.de/img/clipboard-ar7876l1kdf.jpg)
(http://abload.de/img/clipboard-fx78762hji8.jpg)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oSl3A8tHj6U
i know! but specialized boasts "6.8 kg out the box" pedals are 200-250g either way you look at it, computer mount, bottle cages, tubeless, add another 100-200 grams. now you can only get 7.2 kg if youre a real weight weenie. can probs shave down to 7-7.2 tops if you do a lot of modifications, but like you said, you have to ride it.
speaking of which, have any of you guys bought a full carbon hard shell saddle? any reviews?
I'm not finished but see alot of debate on weight. So throwing in my 168 current weight. This is with pedals, metal cages, mounts. I can maybe shave 150g more but that's as far as I'm willing to take this build.
Quick question on building the bike. When installing the anti-vibration foam, do you run it full length down the downtube and through the chainstay, or do you tend to run it in the downtube only?
I'm asking as I'm struggling to run it through the chainstays with how tight the space is, it keeps bunching up and not running the full length.
My bike is fully built, but i forgot to install the foam to prevent the rattling noises. Is it possible to install it without having to recable the entire bike?
My bike is fully built, but i forgot to install the foam to prevent the rattling noises. Is it possible to install it without having to recable the entire bike?
Here's one way of doing it:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oBWhBM7KEoQ (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oBWhBM7KEoQ)
I bought one of the new SL7 super long expander plugs only to find out that it won't fit in my 168 steerer! I could barely get a few millimetres of the metal part on the bottom to go in. Anyone experience this if you're tried one of these?
For reference the middle one is the stock VB one and the one of the left is a lightweight option I was gonna try, chickened out, and now may try after all.
I bought one of the new SL7 supper long expander plugs only to find out that it won't fit in my 168 steerer! I could barely get a few millimetres of the metal part on the bottom to go in. Anyone experience this if you're tried one of these?
For reference the middle one is the stock VB one and the one of the right is a lightweight option I was gonna try, chickened out, and now may try again.
Did you loosen the stem?
Also.... What do you want to achieve with this exchange? There will be no discernable benefit from doing this from my point of view.
I actually took off the stem so am confident there was no force compressing the steerer.
At first I just wanted to switch to something "safer", however now it's more out of necessity as the stock expander is not gripping well internally and slipping up when I compress the headset (using carbon paste as well).
Quick question on building the bike. When installing the anti-vibration foam, do you run it full length down the downtube and through the chainstay, or do you tend to run it in the downtube only?
I'm asking as I'm struggling to run it through the chainstays with how tight the space is, it keeps bunching up and not running the full length.
My bike is fully built, but i forgot to install the foam to prevent the rattling noises. Is it possible to install it without having to recable the entire bike?
I actually took off the stem so am confident there was no force compressing the steerer.
At first I just wanted to switch to something "safer", however now it's more out of necessity as the stock expander is not gripping well internally and slipping up when I compress the headset (using carbon paste as well).
I used one of these in my VB-R099 - Quite a tight fit (Needed to tap it with a rubber mallet to get it in) but it works very well:
https://dedaelementi.com/expander-70
If I remember rightly, it was lighter than the stock plug, despite being considerably longer.
I switched to this one. Works a lot better, no slipping issues.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/274059545505?hash=item3fcf38cba1:g:dJMAAOSwuShai4Wg
I have a question for those who have installed mechanical shifters. How or where did you put the adjuster for the derailleur?
I'm using full mechanical shifting (Shimano 105/Ultegra) and brakes (Juin Tech GT-Fs) but am not sure what you mean about the adjuster for the derailleur?
Are you referring to the front or rear derailleur? The only adjuster I can think of is the barrel adjuster on the rear derailleur however on my 105 this is part of the derailleur itself?
Thanks for the answers. I meant the front one. I know until now only those who have this adjuster in the line.
If it has newer with an adjuster on the derailleur itself then my question is settled.
Start with the bad. I'm doing a big gamble on these cranks. They are hollow arms and 7075 spindle. I figured if my 63kg body brakes them no one should ever use these. The inside chainring is yellow not color changing.
Onto the fun part. The crankset is 650 gram and the bling rings. Bike is now 7.38kg 16.25lbs.
Start with the bad. I'm doing a big gamble on these cranks. They are hollow arms and 7075 spindle. I figured if my 63kg body brakes them no one should ever use these. The inside chainring is yellow not color changing.
Onto the fun part. The crankset is 650 gram and the bling rings. Bike is now 7.38kg 16.25lbs.
Anyone knows the THREADING of the thru axles front and rear?
Planning to get some J&L thru axles from ebay with an expecting weight of 46g together, which would be a saving of around <40g if I'm not mistaken to the stock ones.
Link for the lazy: https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2047675.m570.l1313&_nkw=J%26L+Thru+Axle&_sacat=0
==> Just unsure which size to select.
My plan is to preorder all parts until hopefully soon my frame arrives, but who knows when that will be.
i was wandering the same question then realised the details have been printed on the axles haha
i was wandering the same question then realised the details have been printed on the axles haha
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2047675.m570.l1313&_nkw=J%26L+Thru+Axle&_sacat=0
I don't understand, I would like to buy them ,what are those with the right size, someone gently puts me two links, the front and rear axle.
thanks in advance for help
I'm thinking about ordering one of these but not sure if I should order size 54 or 56, I'm 178 cm tall (5' 10") with 84cm inseam, saddle height just under 75 cm. Anyone around that height have an opinion? I'm leaning towards 54, but specialized sl7 says 56.It depends on many things (arms lenght, flexibility, etc) but IMO you are closer to a 56. But, have in mind the seatpost has setback. In my case I could solve it with this saddle. I could be 1’5cm closer to handlebar with this saddle than with standard ones, and my surprise.. is ver confortable and cheap
Order a 54. I'm about the same size as you, got a 56. Regret it.
I'm thinking about ordering one of these but not sure if I should order size 54 or 56, I'm 178 cm tall (5' 10") with 84cm inseam, saddle height just under 75 cm. Anyone around that height have an opinion? I'm leaning towards 54, but specialized sl7 says 56.
What size bars/stem do you have on your 56? Slammed?
I have extremely long arms. Yoeleo h9 handlebars with a 110mm stem. I think they measure more than 110mm.How is the compatibility to the vbr 168? Does it look off or seamless? Maybe a photo would speak best for itself :).
Interesting responses to the sizing so far!
I am 180cm / 5'11 tall with an inseam of 85cm or so.
I tested the original SL7 comp yesterday in 56cm variant and it fitted very well, so I am thinking about going ahead with the VBR 168 in 56 as well.
Only modification I have in mind will be a different straight handlebar (HB011) instead of the curved standard bar.
Before my testing I erroneously had thought that the VBR would come with a larger seatpost offset than the original, but that's not the case.
EDIT// Replacing the VBR168 seatpost with the original specialized seatpost does not work - they are not compatible and differ significantly in form - thanks to @renrew.
Regarding the setback see above + additional experience I had with a real SL7. The 54 would have been too small for sure.
Where would the bike feel too small?
Here is a picture of my bike. my lbs mixed and matched spacers by mistake.
Where would the bike feel too small?
Here is a picture of my bike. my lbs mixed and matched spacers by mistake.
How have the mechanical brakes been treating you, and which brand of calipers are you using?
Just under 3,000 km on the 168 I built in May last year and so far it's great.
New additions include the 50mm Velobuild wheels and the recently installed HB-011 bars. I previously had the HB-010 with the internal fastening wedge instead of the two outside bolts. Had some play/flex on the HB-010 and not sure if this was related to additional spacing because of the wedge or just how I had it mounted them, however I've been really happy with the HB-011 bars and I did cut off some of the steerer when I mounted them.
Looks really nice! Is the angle more aggressive, or is it just an illusion?
Has anybody tried one of the SL7 direct mount mech hangers?
Something like this?
https://www.pedaleur.nl/product/specialized-tarmac-derailleurhanger-my18-my19/ (https://www.pedaleur.nl/product/specialized-tarmac-derailleurhanger-my18-my19/)
Had a bike fit on my 56cm Canyon Ultimate CF SL disc and was told I round my lower back a little but the sizing was correct for me (~5'11 179cm) and with slightly longer torso I would be good with a longer stem or else I'd be too scrunched up so 54cm 168 likely not an option and I'll choose the 56cm 168 in the future.
Where would the bike feel too small?
Here is a picture of my bike. my lbs mixed and matched spacers by mistake.
Just under 3,000 km on the 168 I built in May last year and so far it's great.
New additions include the 50mm Velobuild wheels and the recently installed HB-011 bars. I previously had the HB-010 with the internal fastening wedge instead of the two outside bolts. Had some play/flex on the HB-010 and not sure if this was related to additional spacing because of the wedge or just how I had it mounted them, however I've been really happy with the HB-011 bars and I did cut off some of the steerer when I mounted them.
Okay, now I am thoroughly confused. I emailed Chris and he says that the included integrated bars are the HB010 and that they have -17 angle.
I looked at http://www.velobuild.com/products/carbon-fiber-road-bike-integrated-handlebar-with-spacers-for-hidden-cables-routing (http://www.velobuild.com/products/carbon-fiber-road-bike-integrated-handlebar-with-spacers-for-hidden-cables-routing)
These bars (HB010) appear to have a two bolt clamp system. Was the HB010 updated at some point? It still has some forward sweep, I'm also not sure it is actually -17 deg...
-Lightbicycles ar46 wheels with Sapem spokes and ti carbon hubs.
-conti gp5000s tl
If I mount the rear caliper without adapter, then fits on the rear wheel a 160mm disc or only a 140mm?
Has anybody tried one of the SL7 direct mount mech hangers?
Something like this?
https://www.pedaleur.nl/product/specialized-tarmac-derailleurhanger-my18-my19/ (https://www.pedaleur.nl/product/specialized-tarmac-derailleurhanger-my18-my19/)
This is such an oversight by Velobuild tbh. The 168 and 177 are clearly homages to Specalized designs so why not make the forks, seatposts and hangers the same as their name brand counterparts? it'll save a lot of hassle in the future when they're no longer produced and you need to find spare parts.
How is the 177 a homage to a specialized?
The 168, sure. But a der hanger isnt normally something one would break imo lol
How did you find fitting those tires? I have the same setup (AR46 + GP5000 TL), and lost some skin mounting them :PYeah I struggled a bit myself to. But with the help of some plastic tyre irons I was able to get them on.
Metallic Dark Blue
Nice looking bike! Looks familiar ;D
Mine: https://i.imgur.com/MKwL5nj.jpg?1
ahahha yeah, pretty sure I sent Chris one of your photos for painting purposes. When I saw your build, it was one of the reasons I ordered the frame and wheels.
Question for everyone who is running a mechanical front derailleur, how the f**k did you manage to get the outer cable in the cable stop behind the bottom bracket?
Did you figure out how to route this yet? There were some posts about this earlier in the thread, and at least one person routed theirs above the BB. http://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,3147.msg28515.html#msg28515 (http://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,3147.msg28515.html#msg28515)
Hey Bamboo!
It took a bit of filing to take some material off the inside of the frame stop where the cable enters, this opened up the angle a little bit and allowed me to fit the cable and ferrule into the stop, routing it underneath the bottom bracket. It means that there is no tight bend inside the frame as the cable is not going to run almost vertically from under the bottom bracket directly up to the front derailleur.
Honestly it took a good few hours and MANY attempts to get it to sit properly but I'm happy with how it's turned out.
My next challenge is the bars, I'm now finding it pretty hard to sort the internal cable routing out which I'm guessing is going to take many more hours and attempts to get the cables through. I may just file a little bit of material away from where the cables exit close to the shifters to create a slightly bigger hole, as the problem I'm having is the hole is SUPER tight to get both a shifter cable and a brake cable through.
Any other suggestions?
Hey Ollie, it is punish to go get those cables in through the headset, I'm not sure if this is a good idea or not, but I lightly put some grease on the cable housing to get it to slide through nicely.
ahahha yeah, pretty sure I sent Chris one of your photos for painting purposes. When I saw your build, it was one of the reasons I ordered the frame and wheels.
Zdrenka89 this is your bike right? https://www.instagram.com/p/Ca3IkZBvkNm/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link
Juin Tech F1's arrived
build list :
54 VBR-168 Frame with Painted Dark Metallic Blue
50mm VeloBuild Wheels
25 Conti GP5000 with Transparent sidewalls
Full 105 Groupo with Juin Tech F1 Calipers
Some random saddle I had sitting in a draw
Previous bike was a Triban RC500. Riding this 168 is so damn quick
Very nice!
I've also just received my Juin Tech's so am finalising my build. Also went from a Triban RC520 to a VB-R-168 so am very much looking forward to (hopefully) going a bit faster!
If you have any questions on the build, fire away!
Great looking build, for a first time you did really well, very smart component choices! How is the ZTTO BB?
Had my first ride on my VB-R-168 today and absolutely LOVE it.
Nice build! Is that a faded paint job or chameleon?
It's purple chameleon fading down to gloss black. It makes the bike look almost all black until the sun catches it, and then the purple chameleon starts to sparkle :)
Hi all,
Had my first ride on my VB-R-168 today and absolutely LOVE it.
The build went together really well, with the only issue being that I needed to file around 2mm of material off the inside of the front derailleur stop so the cable and ferrule could sit in correctly when routing under the bottom bracket. I did experience difficulty in routing the cables through the bars but it's my first time building a bike so it was to be expected.
In general I would say the overall quality of the bike is great, especially when considering how much the frame is!
For context, I'm coming off a Triban RC520, a full aluminium, relaxed geo, 9kg beginners road bike, and up until today was the only road bike I had ridden.
Compared to the RC520, the 168 is much stiffer, accelerates faster, transfers power better and holds speed very well once you get going, however it also seems very comfortable and compliant with no issues on the cobbles I rode today. My 35km ride today was a local loop I know very well and I managed to get a number of Strava PR's (smashing some of my previous times). I haven't ridden/trained for the last 6 weeks so fitness wasn't great and there were some hellish headwinds, which shows just how fast the bike is.
Without a power meter I can only go off avg. speed, and based on todays ride I think I've gained between 4 to 5km/h with the 168 which is more than I expected if I'm honest - I was averaging 32km/h on my ride and it felt pretty straightforward to maintain 37km/h, when pushing I was hitting between 44 to 52km/h which I could get nowhere near on my RC520 - all of this was on flat roads so no benefit from going downhill ;) it's a VERY fast bike.
I got the frame with the HB011 bar, when static and you test the bar for flex there is a small amount which I was a bit disappointed with, however when you're actually on the bike and sprinting in the drops I couldn't feel any flex at all, which was a very pleasant surprise.
Aside from the frame, the other Chiner components I have are the Juin Tech GT's which are great, much better than my previous TRP HY/RDs, and the SROAD SLR2 cassette which shifts very well and is super light!
Overall, super happy and would highly recommend the frame!
A full parts list and weight per part for my build is here: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1JRhus6SxSn-_OqfEiuNH-_bxQrsS67ouus0gICANTKk/edit#gid=704196738 (https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1JRhus6SxSn-_OqfEiuNH-_bxQrsS67ouus0gICANTKk/edit#gid=704196738)
I'll put some better pictures of the bike up when I have time. If you have any questions on the build, fire away!
Olie
How do those rotors work for you? I keep thinking about getting ultralight rotors, but always chicken out
How do those rotors work for you? I keep thinking about getting ultralight rotors, but always chicken out
. I also live in Amsterdam so all of my riding is on the flat, I only really use the brakes when coming up to traffic lights etc. so will never be able to test them on a long descent.
seat post slipped towards the end of a ride, now it seems like its stuck real good in there, didnt hear a crack or anything, any ideas on how to get it out?
Did anyone replace their stock spacers for the 168 with plastic ones to save a few grams? Looking for ones that match the shape of the HB011 which seems to be quite different than the HB010 spacers.
Found these so far https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002038330933.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.7d7dbf5aOF0oka&algo_pvid=95d97a8f-3682-4d70-bc32-4280a3cafed2&algo_exp_id=95d97a8f-3682-4d70-bc32-4280a3cafed2-3&pdp_ext_f=%7B%22sku_id%22%3A%2212000018504838752%22%7D&pdp_pi=-1%3B9.78%3B-1%3B-1%40salePrice%3BCAD%3Bsearch-mainSearch
I finally received my my frame, and my initial impressions are pretty negative. I don't know if this is an outlier but there seem to be quite a few little issues.
1. There seems to be some sort of delaminated layer in a complete circle around the inside of the downtube (see pic). I don't know if this is normal or not (first carbon frame).
2. Generally poor paint quality with a few large blobs, including one right on the fork where the lower bearing race sits.
3. Little surface voids, including on the inside of the stem clamp, and one where the lower headset bearing sits.
4. Sketchy looking brake hole in fork steerer with a small hole right next to it.
5. Serial number on inside of headtube was half peeled off.
6. Ugly fork brake hole (this seems normal for VB).
7. Is it just me or does the front thru axle seem a little too short?
8. Lower seatpost rail clamp doesn't seem to fit the curvature of seatpost. Maybe it is the wrong part?
Thoughts?
Have you sent these photos to Velobuild? that kind of looks pretty rough to me, does the front thru axle screw in all the way? and the seat post sits flush on mine.
I haven't sent them pics yet, still deciding what I want to do. The thru axle doesn't screw in all the way when a wheel is inserted, it is maybe 2-3mm short of being flush with the outside edge. That is probably not a big deal and I'm more worried about the other obvious problems.
I finally received my my frame, and my initial impressions are pretty negative. I don't know if this is an outlier but there seem to be quite a few little issues.
1. There seems to be some sort of delaminated layer in a complete circle around the inside of the downtube (see pic). I don't know if this is normal or not (first carbon frame).
2. Generally poor paint quality with a few large blobs, including one right on the fork where the lower bearing race sits.
3. Little surface voids, including on the inside of the stem clamp, and one where the lower headset bearing sits.
4. Sketchy looking brake hole in fork steerer with a small hole right next to it.
5. Serial number on inside of headtube was half peeled off.
6. Ugly fork brake hole (this seems normal for VB).
7. Is it just me or does the front thru axle seem a little too short?
8. Lower seatpost rail clamp doesn't seem to fit the curvature of seatpost. Maybe it is the wrong part?
Thoughts?
The carbon quality on mine looks actually similar, definitely not what you would expect from EPS foam in the process. However, according to my LBS it’s mostly cosmetic, although pretty ugly indeed.
After cutting my steerer tube we also found a small bubble on the inside, it shouldn’t be critical however.
The paint imperfection at the forks cable entrance seems to be a thing.
The thru axle however seems way too short.
Your seatpost clamp issue also surprises me tbh.
Have you seen anything like ridge I have all around the inside of the downtube? I can literally flake it off with my fingers and it wraps all the way around.
Have you seen anything like ridge I have all around the inside of the downtube? I can literally flake it off with my fingers and it wraps all the way around.
Unfortunately yes. I tried to peel it at some part and it seems to be more like a production residue.
A good eps cf production would not allow that to happen.
I just feel like it’s good enough, but then again we’re taking about a low price product.
You appear to be implying the 168 is EPS, and badly done EPS. According to VB only the 177 is EPS.
Looking to build another R-168. Have a few questions for all the people who've recently done it (my finished build is on page 12).
- How long does it take from order to shipping for the R-168 these days? I ordered early last year before it got super backed up.
- Are people still using the Wheels MFG BB86/92? Is there a cheaper solution that's still better than pressfit?
- I'm 5'8" and am really happy I got the 52cm. Next bike is for my wife who is 5'5". I'm thinking to get a 52cm again, but wondering if anyone has any thoughts about the 49cm (SL7 sizing chart would still recommend 52cm).
- How's the new integrated handlebar? Does it regress in any way? Once I figured out the old one, it's been smooth sailing, and I actually prefer the lack of exposed bolts.
- I got matte last time, but plan to get that awesome blue paint job that @zdrenka89 and @memebike have. Is there anything to watch out for?
- Non-VB wise, I got a 25mm width wheelset (ICAN) last time for 28mm tubeless tires. Was that wrong? Should I have instead bought a 23mm width wheelset?
-Running 28 tubeless on the vb 25wides and they seem fine
Thanks for the info! I had an issue where my LBS and I inflated the VB wheelset (configured for tubeless) without rim tape and the side delaminated (exploded carbon shards everywhere) at ~50psi. Just wondering, did you experience any issue like that? It's why I switched to ICAN.
And they still haven't refunded me for the missing bottle cages (the least of my worries at this point).
Looking to build another R-168. Have a few questions for all the people who've recently done it (my finished build is on page 12).
- How long does it take from order to shipping for the R-168 these days? I ordered early last year before it got super backed up.
- Are people still using the Wheels MFG BB86/92? Is there a cheaper solution that's still better than pressfit?
- I'm 5'8" and am really happy I got the 52cm. Next bike is for my wife who is 5'5". I'm thinking to get a 52cm again, but wondering if anyone has any thoughts about the 49cm (SL7 sizing chart would still recommend 52cm).
- How's the new integrated handlebar? Does it regress in any way? Once I figured out the old one, it's been smooth sailing, and I actually prefer the lack of exposed bolts.
- I got matte last time, but plan to get that awesome blue paint job that @zdrenka89 and @memebike have. Is there anything to watch out for?
- Non-VB wise, I got a 25mm width wheelset (ICAN) last time for 28mm tubeless tires. Was that wrong? Should I have instead bought a 23mm width wheelset?
just finished mine, not 100% happy about it to be honest.
The integrated bar in scaring me, it flexes a lot. plus the holes for the spacer's pin are misalligned.
the bb30 holes look a little loose.
idk if that happen to the other as well, but when i get up and push on the pedal you can feel some flex cause at every push you can hear the front disc touching the brake caliper
Quick question, is anyone running mechanical Ultegra on this frame? I've been looking for a DI2 groupset but they are $$$. I'd love to get away with a mechanical set if I could.
not only carbon bikes.
The problem comes from wheels lacking lateral stiffness.
Could you elaborate on what you mean here? Because at first (and second) glance this doesn't seem to make sense to me.
Hello men,
Has anyone bought wheels from Chris?
How are the experiences. The price is OK.
Quick question, is anyone running mechanical Ultegra on this frame? I've been looking for a DI2 groupset but they are $$$. I'd love to get away with a mechanical set if I could.I am alsi running a mech Ultegra. It works fine. The routing of the Cables was not that complicatet as i thought.
I picked up the 50mm Disc wheels, no issues, had them for a month of so, done 400kms. Running tubeless Pzero 28's
Lateral stiffness is important because during a sprint, the wheels are no longer constantly vertical. So the force pushing the wheels can cause flex if the wheels aren't stiff laterally enough.
Imagine a wheel angled at 45 degrees, and the force from the cyclist pushing that wheel straight downward at 90 degrees.
what was your inner width
I picked up the 50mm Disc wheels, no issues, had them for a month of so, done 400kms. Running tubeless Pzero 28's
Do you ride it on Gravel or RR.
25 mm inner width is huge, 22 mm would be normal
send me details of what you bought
Here's the seat post clamp I've used on my vbr086 and vbr168. I'm pretty sure someone else on here found it.
https://a.aliexpress.com/_m0j1Eoe
Hello everybody, here my first post!
First of all thank you all, the many tips are very helpful, but first I have the size question...because I'm still not sure!
Should I order the size 52 or 54 when choosing the VB-R-168 model with separate stem and handlebar?
My measurements are:
Inseam 825-830 mm
Hull length 610-615 mm
Shoulder width 400 mm
Arm length 590 mm
Size chart from Spezialized says: Size 54 width 400 mm Handlebar and 100 mm stem, maybe (90mm)?
Is that OK or which stem and which size is needed?
Best regards, Sammy
25
@memebike
(https://abload.de/img/clipboard-p1079224jr1.jpg)
Update on my situation:
I opened a PayPal dispute after Chris wasn't much help resolving my problems, and they have requested that I send the frame back to China, at my expense. I looked up how much it would cost, and the cheapest option with tracking from Canada to China is over 500 CAD! More than half the original cost...
Does anyone know if there are any third party sources for the seatpost hardware? Chris denies that there is anything wrong with the one I received but I have no doubts they sent the wrong parts. If I can fix the seatpost, I can at least use it as an indoor trainer bike.
And they still haven't refunded me for the missing bottle cages (the least of my worries at this point).
Hi all, I apologize in advance, but I'm just now getting into bike building and I really would love to build my wife a new bike. Right now she rides an aluminum Giant Liv with Sora group and she really deserves an upgrade. Comfort is a priority but I do like the extra aero look you get from the 168 frame.
I am currently looking at the velobuild 168 or 177 frames with some custom paint. If I buy a frame from them do I need to ask for anything else in addition? Does it come with all the hardware that I need? Like spacers, maybe an extra derailleur hanger, seat clamps, headset or whatever. I have wheels already and plan on sourcing 105 group parts from ebay, going with mechanical disk brakes to save some extra dollars.
Also, do you think they would have an issue copying this paint job?
(https://ae01.alicdn.com/kf/Hed1a507b728a453689f708bc37106bfbv/AERO-Direct-double-mount-brake-frame-Full-Carbon-bicycle-New-design-paint-frame-SERAPH-brand-cycling.jpg_Q90.jpg_.webp)
In other news, the 168 makes an appearance on GCN during the bike vault segment.
https://youtube.com/clip/UgkxPP9UE-5DOvxTgI_OMKjzXAUz5oYpxIAG (https://youtube.com/clip/UgkxPP9UE-5DOvxTgI_OMKjzXAUz5oYpxIAG)
Looks like just shy of the vault based on technicalities.
I propose we flood GCN with Velobike bike vault submissions. Heck, let’s flood GCN with vault submissions for all our Chiner bikes!
hahah totally!
One of the presenter seems to not be a fan of Chinese based brands from what I've seen in the past and the reaction in this video haha - Just you wait!
They're a fan of what ever they're paid to promote (or exclude).Slap an Orbea decal on it. Lol
In other news, the 168 makes an appearance on GCN during the bike vault segment.
https://youtube.com/clip/UgkxPP9UE-5DOvxTgI_OMKjzXAUz5oYpxIAG (https://youtube.com/clip/UgkxPP9UE-5DOvxTgI_OMKjzXAUz5oYpxIAG)
Looks like just shy of the vault based on technicalities.
I propose we flood GCN with Velobike bike vault submissions. Heck, let’s flood GCN with vault submissions for all our Chiner bikes!
They look so conflicted.
Hi all,
I need some help since I want to get prepared for when my frame arrives - size 54:
What is the frame thickness at the rear break caliper, or what ist the correct length of the Brake caliper mounting bolt C? See bottom rigth of page 40
https://si.shimano.com/api/publish/storage/pdf/en/dm/RADBR01/DM-RADBR01-09-ENG.pdf (https://si.shimano.com/api/publish/storage/pdf/en/dm/RADBR01/DM-RADBR01-09-ENG.pdf)
SHIMANO FIXING BOLT C - 25MM THICK CHAINSTAY
Hi all,
I would like to share my experience with Velobuild with you. I ordered two frames a VB-R-168 and a VB-R-066. Both show quality problem, the VB-R-168 actually is a disaster. Here are the reasons:
Hi all,
I would like to share my experience with Velobuild with you. I ordered two frames a VB-R-168 and a VB-R-066. Both show quality problem, the VB-R-168 actually is a disaster. Here are the reasons:
- Scratches all over
- Cable outlets are a mess
- On bar second hole missing to match spacers
- Holes for Garmin mount way off, it not perpendicular
- color of frame and fork are different
- Front derailleur hanger does not match frame
There seems to be no quality control at all. To me, buing from Velobuild is a jeopardy. Be warned and consider shopping there very carefully!
What has Chris/VeloBuild offered to resolved all those issues, when you contacted him?
Hi all,
I would like to share my experience with Velobuild with you. I ordered two frames a VB-R-168 and a VB-R-066. Both show quality problem, the VB-R-168 actually is a disaster. Here are the reasons:
- Scratches all over
- Cable outlets are a mess
- On bar second hole missing to match spacers
- Holes for Garmin mount way off, it not perpendicular
- color of frame and fork are different
- Front derailleur hanger does not match frame
There seems to be no quality control at all. To me, buing from Velobuild is a jeopardy. Be warned and consider shopping there very carefully!
No response so far :(
... I just ordered a VB 168 and am very much hoping it comes out better than my Workswell did a few years ago. I am now a little nervous I decided to go with a three color design… :-\
What a mess. And those aren't scratches. They're large chips. Scratches you could buff out.
Dunno wtf they were thinking letting those forks / bars and a clearly mishandled frame leave to a customer
Makes me a bit nervous about receiving my 099.
Hi all,
I would like to share my experience with Velobuild with you. I ordered two frames a VB-R-168 and a VB-R-066. Both show quality problem, the VB-R-168 actually is a disaster. Here are the reasons:
However while your cases surely suck it looks like everything is kinda fine for most of the people - including me.
So its a gamble you are in the lucky 50% everything is fine, rather lucky 40% - get the dremel we are fixing this or the fucked 10%. At least thats how it feels like reading here.
Hello all
We are sorry for the troubles some of you have been experiencing with your Velobuild frames. We want to let you know that we are working on resolving these cases. If you still need help please get in touch at info@velobuild.com and we will do our best to resolve the problem.
The feedback shared in the thread is being reviewed and taken into account to improve our QC processes. We appreciate your understanding as we strive to offer the best quality products while keeping costs down.
Hello all
We are sorry for the troubles some of you have been experiencing with your Velobuild frames. We want to let you know that we are working on resolving these cases. If you still need help please get in touch at info@velobuild.com and we will do our best to resolve the problem.
The feedback shared in the thread is being reviewed and taken into account to improve our QC processes. We appreciate your understanding as we strive to offer the best quality products while keeping costs down.
The better alternative is to order from Longteng bikes.
tantan x33 also
Someone on the WW forums said longteng/seraph/tantan are the same people. A few months ago, their skype link on their respective websites redirected to the same person.
Hello all
We are sorry for the troubles some of you have been experiencing with your Velobuild frames. We want to let you know that we are working on resolving these cases. If you still need help please get in touch at info@velobuild.com and we will do our best to resolve the problem.
The feedback shared in the thread is being reviewed and taken into account to improve our QC processes. We appreciate your understanding as we strive to offer the best quality products while keeping costs down.
Thank you for responding. I think if you ask people here, QC is probably the most important aspect Vb needs to focus on.
Anecdotally, most of the issues seem to be around:
1) missing or incorrect hardware
2) poor machining of hardware or mounting points on the frame
3) incorrect or sloppy paint job
4) “bait and switch” specifically around handlebars
5) poor after sales service
The frames themselves are fine.
The customer expectation is that they will receive exactly what they have ordered, and not have to contact for after service support.
Because, let’s be honest, after sales support is weak and aside from receiving a broken frame in the mail, the VB warranty is almost useless.
It is also in VBs interest to take the extra time to ensure an order is correct and free of defects.
Consider how much time and money is wasted dealing with after sale complaints, as well as the loss of reputation when these complaints are shared on forums?
Ideally, VB wants to be in a position where you will never hear from a customer again, unless it is to buy another frame.
I am not saying this to complain. Rather, I say this because I would like to see VB succeed. And these QC issues are seriously harming your business
Almost done with a new VB-186, but while working on the rear derailleur, I realized that instead of shifter cable housing I used brake cable housing. Anyone done this before? Is it no big deal or should I redo all my cabling?
Almost done with a new VB-186, but while working on the rear derailleur, I realized that instead of shifter cable housing I used brake cable housing. Anyone done this before? Is it no big deal or should I redo all my cabling?If you used compressionless housing, you 'll be fine.
I'll take a look at the dealer, thanks for the tip
Wish I woulda read this all sooner. My frame has not shipped which is fine, but the answers I’m getting from Chris are very deflective for simple queries.
Wish I woulda read this all sooner. My frame has not shipped which is fine, but the answers I’m getting from Chris are very deflective for simple queries.
I am currently interested in the TT-X33 model, communication with TanTan Cycling support is good and fast. Questions are answered in detail.
Maybe you can still cancel the order?
Anything I can answer? I’ve now built two of these about a year apart. I had minimal QC issues with the frames but I did get a somewhat defective wheelset that I abandoned.
No response so far :(
keep us posted on how it's going
Handlebar considerations – a hint
Along with the 168 frame I ordered a 100/400mm fully integrated handlebar. I also ordered the VB-HB-021 (2021 New Carbon Handlebar with Separate Stem) with a 110mm stem and a 400mm bar. With the VB-HB-021 option I intended to have a longer cockpit compared to the fully integrated one. However, it turned out that the VB-HB-021 option is shorter than the fully integrated one, although number wise the stem is longer.
Did they do a good job of supplying the little frame bits for entry/exit ports and for different drivetrains like mechanical vs electronic? Has anyone slapped a real FSA ACR headset on one of these? How good are the bearing seats in terms of finish?
@planet_sammy @braincore @hazzer19
Has anyone slapped a real FSA ACR headset on one of these?
Hello all
We wanted to provide an update on the recent issues some customers have experienced with their frames and let you know we have been working closely with those affected to find a resolution.
We are implementing additional QC/QA steps to our process prior to frames being sent for painting and multiple checks before shipping to ensure no issues or parts are missed and can be corrected if needed.
We appreciate everyone's feedback and are committed to improving the quality of our products by listening to what you have to say.
Happy building and riding!
VeloBuild Team
Only done mechanical 2x. The derailleur cables have exit ports: cover for front, plug for rear. I've only used the integrated handlebar, no FSA ACR headset.
If you are asking about the entire FSA ACR set-up (bearings, compression plug, lock ring, top cover) then that would be difficult, and I would say damn near impossible to pull off if you want the actual FSA ACR front hydraulic hose route through the top of the steerer. That being said, on my TanTan TT-x21, I've used everything except the top cover, and routed the hoses as usual through the fully integrated handlebars and through the head tube without too many issues. Everything works fine with the stock Chinese top cover, which allowed me to keep the stock spacers and handlebars that came with the frame.
Hope this helps.
Stupid question - but where were these covers packed?
I somehow did not get any and cannot find them even with all the packaging still there. (Used some flexible glue mass type of thing to cover them for now)
Totally helps! :-) My half baked plan so far is to just route both brake hoses through the headset since I’ll be running electric. But I’ll see how I like the VB parts before I get crazy! ;)
Chris responded and said that if I agree to cancel the dispute he will send me the correct part and refund for the missing bottle cages, hopefully he follows through. Good thing I have another bike to ride in the mean time... I will probably end up making this a dedicated winter trainer bike anyways.Thanks for this hint,
Anyone have any ideas on bottom brackets that would suit this frame but are compatible with SRAM Rival 12 Cranks?
This is the only one i've found but wanting to know what others have used.
https://www.tradeinn.com/bikeinn/en/sram-dub-pf86-road-wide-bottom-bracket-cup/137670786/p?utm_source=google_products&utm_medium=merchant&id_producte=11316256&country=au&gclid=CjwKCAjw46CVBhB1EiwAgy6M4sR3bTW2h1MubRB7CYriTzXteEBhn2rsweYmOk_0asO28CU95xth9RoCmaEQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds&fbclid=IwAR1vYjEYiOyjW7zVDm-w22b31AogAdI_PlAiW1AmZ9RykXH9TSDNERr8EXI
Thanks for this hint,
My velobuild rear wheel blew after 350Kms of asphalt, on a 10% downhill. There are cracks starting from the nipple
VB Customer support is denying any warranty, insisting in a supposed accident when the I sent pictures of the bike from both sides.
I don't trust the front wheel either, so I guess I will go down this Paypal dispute (or Credit card otherwise) tomorrow at the latest.
Do you have a wide crank? If yes this is the BB for you otherwise look for this one in non "WIDE". This is the right one - however be advised that DUB with the frame is not recommended by VB. and in general not the best combination PF and DUB, but this used by e.g. Movistar with Canyon and SRAM.
Also I did not have any issues with creaking in this combination until I had a minor chain drop (pretty compact rival power crank combined with force FD and forgot to double check limit screws)... no I got a new install on my plate. I printed some bigger spacers to try have less pre-load and minimize variables.
Sucks to hear that - this is the reason I do not trust anyone but the known quantities regarding wheels... that's just too dangerous. I got myself some Farsports wheels for my 168 build. I am more relaxed with frames, because usually carbon frame failures are a more soft process like delaminating and not blowing up in my face. I was thinking about getting some very cheap carbon wheels for my gravel beater, but stories like this will see me dropping serious money on a full carbon proper gravel setup.
I am currently interested in the TT-X33 model, communication with TanTan Cycling support is good and fast. Questions are answered in detail.
Maybe you can still cancel the order?
Did you purchqse the x33?
Build a mechanical tt bike!
So a few updates, managed to score a good deal on a Rival Etap grouppo without a cassette. Basically there are no cassettes in stock in Australia until Sept, all the local bike shops have inventory though for complete groupset purchases :(. I didnt want to wait that long to test it out seeing as I'm using 105+Juintechs and this is Rival Etaps with Hydro. I also needed the XDR free hub to arrive so in the mean time, I purchased the new 12sp ultegra cassette and installed the sram shifters and deraileurs with the 12sp flat top chain in a set up I call SRAMANO.
Have taken it out for a few rides now, no issues. handled 1100w+ efforts but the biggest thing was the full hydro brakes. Juin Techs are great but man full hydro brakes are awesome.
I think you'd actually be better off running the XT or XTR chain, as you're running Shimano cassette and rings. Usually you match the chain to the rings and cassette, not the derailleurs. It's certainly what you do on MTB SRAMANO - and it works well.
Sorry if this question is answered somewhere in the thead but do anyone have the real weights of frame, fork, seatpost and handlebar?
Asking in this thread as it's bigger and the 099 and 168 share the same thru-axle thread that's attached to the fork dropout with that small screw.
Has anyone had a problem with it? Hex size seems to be the very rare 2.25mm. 2mm is too small and 2.5mm is too big. Can't get the screw fully threaded as a result.
Just tagging along here because the 177 also has that small screw and I've always wondered about it. Does anyone know if it serves any purpose other than to hold the end cap in place? I removed the little end cap on mine and stuck the screw back in just to simplify removing/replacing the axle.
Just tagging along here because the 177 also has that small screw and I've always wondered about it. Does anyone know if it serves any purpose other than to hold the end cap in place? I removed the little end cap on mine and stuck the screw back in just to simplify removing/replacing the axle.
P.S. I know the screw serves no purpose with the axle in. But I can imagine the fucking thing falling down a drain when I take the front wheel out to transport the bike, if I leave the screw off.
When I tighten the headset, it doesn't rub with the frame. There's actually a few millimeters between the headset and the frame. I've had that issue you mentioned with my previous Velobuild and I fixed with the same type of thin spacers.
The problem now seems like no matter how much I tighten the headset, there's some play in the steering when braking. And if I keep tightning it up, the compression plug slips up.
So I guess that's not a common occurrence for this bike? hm, I'll keep investigating what could be the issue.
Anyone else freak out when having to remove a pressfit bb? just took mine out and installed a dub BB so SRAMANO is no more. So nerve wracking hitting a bb out of the frame lol.
100% After installing a pressfit BB in my new 168 frame I had to hammer it out only two days after because I accidentally disconnected some wires. Threaded pressfit BB's after that!
Hello. I realized that my steering has a little clearence.
I can feel it if I press the front brake and moving the bike back and forward.
I fix it but after few rides comes again. I know some of you had same issue. How did you solve?
I've had issues with headset play too. The expander plug would come up after some bumps, but I didn't want to put more torque on it as it is a carbon fork. I bought a longer expansion plug that has more contact surface with the fork. Problem seems solved now, I can preload the headset and remove any play. This is the plug I ordered (dutch webshop): https://www.futurumshop.nl/pro-gap-cap-expander-long-carbon-50-mm-1-1-8.phtmlI changed the expander also with one longer, and I checked that the expander is well fixed. I think something is not ok in the headset or spacers. I’ve to apply too much torque in the top cover to eliminate the play, and after some rides appears again.
Has anyone else experienced this?
I heard from another 168 owner that he is having shifting issues due to tension of the cables or something to that effect, not quite sure what he means.
I'm about 95% sold on buying one but everytime Im about to buy, I hear something that stops me.
It's important to differentiate between user error, and actual bike frame defects / customers being sent the wrong hardware.
Plenty of folks in here including myself have built up multiple bikes this year with none of the aforementioned issues.
Keep in mind the majority of folks in here are DIY home bike mechanics. Experience comes from user trial and error.
Hi all,
I finished my build in june and have driven it 1300 km since then. I really like the bike in general :). Luckily I am one of the persons without one of the common quality problems, beside the following issue.
As some other guys i have to use micro spacers, to get get enough space between the top cover of the headset and the head tube. Otherwise the top cover would touch the head tube when compressing the headset.
Unfortunalely my microspacer arrangement slips out of place form time to time, which leads to a loose headset. I attached two photos, to illustrate the problem.
Maybe you can share picutes of your microspacer arrangement or any other advice on how I can address the problem would be very much appreciated. thanks in andvance
Did you cut these micro spacers yourself? Or were they already that shape? ? I cut mine myself and cut them to be the same C shape as the c clip. Yours look like they might be cut too much? So they dont stay around the steerer tube?Thanks for your answer. I cut them myself to end right at the connection pins. How did you cut them, not covering those pins?
nicely done @pigdog ! what size tires did you squeeze in there? they look like 32c?
Kinda want a 168 now lol
Finally thinking about building my frame, got out the handlebars that came with it and test fit the computer mount I bought. Check out how misaligned the mounting holes on the bar are! Yet another VB QC fail...
Finally thinking about building my frame, got out the handlebars that came with it and test fit the computer mount I bought. Check out how misaligned the mounting holes on the bar are! Yet another VB QC fail...
Thanks for your answer. I cut them myself to end right at the connection pins. How did you cut them, not covering those pins?
Thanks for your answer. I cut them myself to end right at the connection pins. How did you cut them, not covering those pins?
Finally thinking about building my frame, got out the handlebars that came with it and test fit the computer mount I bought. Check out how misaligned the mounting holes on the bar are! Yet another VB QC fail...
I think it's a general problem since on the picture on their website its somehow seem to be misaligned...
... What solution did you come up with in your case?
Too bad that these kind of problems (still) exist. Same issue as with mine: http://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,3147.msg36515.html#msg36515 (http://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,3147.msg36515.html#msg36515).
I think it's a general problem since on the picture on their website it somehow seems to be misaligned...
(https://ueeshop.ly200-cdn.com/u_file/UPAB/UPAB004/2204/products/14/fcbe496362.jpg.640x640.jpg)
Hi all,
I finished my build in june and have driven it 1300 km since then. I really like the bike in general :). Luckily I am one of the persons without one of the common quality problems, beside the following issue.
As some other guys i have to use micro spacers, to get get enough space between the top cover of the headset and the head tube. Otherwise the top cover would touch the head tube when compressing the headset.
Unfortunalely my microspacer arrangement slips out of place form time to time, which leads to a loose headset. I attached two photos, to illustrate the problem.
Maybe you can share picutes of your microspacer arrangement or any other advice on how I can address the problem would be very much appreciated. thanks in andvance
Here’s a pic of my completed build.
No big issues for me. Front disc brake caliper mounting points I think need to be faced, as no matter how much adjustments I do, there remains a tiny bit of rub.
Unfortunately the part for facing that is very expensive.
And otherwise, I thought the port where the front derailleur cable leaves the frame was fiddly and a pain, but I got it in the end.
Got them to send me the frame in bare carbon and I did the paint myself. Also added the Winspace Lun wheels which I really like.
Damn. This is a serious issue. I was seriously contemplating purchasing one of these framesets. Too many issues to be sorted yet. Any attempts to rectify the problems just seem to be mostly lip service from VB.I think most problems are caused by unskilled assembly of the bike or can be solved with a clever work around. In my case the customer support of velobuild assured me to send a bigger compression ring, which should solve the problem.
Did you still have to pre-sand your raw carbon frame with wet sandpaper or could you apply the primer straight away?
Is it just me, or has there been an increase of new Chinertown members mainly looking for confirmation bias against purchasing from VeloBuild?
Is it just me, or has there been an increase of new Chinertown members mainly looking for confirmation bias against purchasing from VeloBuild?
That is why I prefer to work with Carbonda.
I don't remember any issue. Even once the customs here screwed a 2 frames delivery, and shipped them back.
In that case it is by boat. They never arrived back.
Carbonda did send me 2 other frames, no question asked.
For me, that build bikes for others for years now, this is gold.
The same with lightbicycle.com for wheels.
I'm all for trying other brands too, but in the end high quality and after sale service is what matter.
I'm not sponsored at all but if you can't stomach the ups and down of importing they are a safer bet.
It always saddens me when I read someone on the forum having a bad experience when building their bike.
Is it just me, or has there been an increase of new Chinertown members mainly looking for confirmation bias against purchasing from VeloBuild?
I guess I fall into this category.
I have had issues with other frames failing on me in the past (including some expensive "western" brands), but never like with Velobuild where they supplied incorrect or obviously bad parts from the start.
Most people here, including myself are okay accepting some risk that they wont receive the same warranty buying direct from China, but I feel it is in the interest of everyone to push for better QC at least.
I do wonder if there was simply a bad production run that got out around the time China was experiencing the worst of the Omicron wave, Chris mentioned to me that there were delays at that time and maybe pressure caused bad results. It does seem somewhat localized around a group of us who purchased around that time, and recent builds have looked a bit better to me.
In any case, I do hope that Velobuild can succeed, and do not want to seem overly harsh in my critique. I just think that it is important to share the bad with the good so that buyers can make an informed decision.
Is it just me, or has there been an increase of new Chinertown members mainly looking for confirmation bias against purchasing from VeloBuild?
Okay so I finally pulled the trigger on a 168 frameset. Should arrive eventually, and I'm interested to see if I win the quality control + fit/finish lottery ;D
Truthfully I only have one general reason for wanting the 168, which breaks down into smaller sub-details: 2022 Allez Sprint
#1 Geometry - The new Allez Sprint/SL7 is my ideal geometry. Long and low. But the 168 shares the identical geometry.
#2 Weight - However, the Allez Sprint is HEAVY. A size 52 weighs like 1400g. I imagine a 56 is around 1500-1600g.
#3 FSA/ACR/DEDA - Being able to use a handlebar/stem combo of my choice is a total game changer, and no longer restricts me certain frames. Huge thanks to the Chinertown community for putting me on to these headset options.
#4 Price - I was initially drawn to the new Allez Sprint mostly because of the way the frame and headset handles cable routing. But spending $1700 for cable routing sounds silly, knowing what I know now about headset options.
#5 Comparing to my 177, Dengfu R12, and Winspace T1500 - Lots of people have asked me about this. Will be interesting.
Having owned the previous Allez Sprint in rim brake, I'm not exactly expecting an identical ride feeling. And while I like my 177, at the end of the day I live in a flat city where being aero is king. Both in optimizing your position on the bike and your frame/wheel setup. On my weekly club rides we are regularly hitting speeds on the flats around 35mph/56kph. Yikes
Anyone in here using a Tarmac SL7 stem? And if so...
Can I use the SL7 stem cover, spacer, transition kit, and cable bat/bolt? I'm thinking about building a 168 and I already have a set Prime Components aero handlebars that allow for routing through the bars.
https://www.performancebike.com/specialized-sworks-tarmac-sl7-stem-black-31.8mm-120mm-12-20021-1116/p1258782?v=1249585 (https://www.performancebike.com/specialized-sworks-tarmac-sl7-stem-black-31.8mm-120mm-12-20021-1116/p1258782?v=1249585)
https://www.performancebike.com/specialized-tarmac-sl7-stem-cover-spacer-transition-kit-black-s202500009/p1249661 (https://www.performancebike.com/specialized-tarmac-sl7-stem-cover-spacer-transition-kit-black-s202500009/p1249661)
https://www.performancebike.com/specialized-tarmac-sl7-stem-cable-clamp-bolt-black-s204800003/p1245584 (https://www.performancebike.com/specialized-tarmac-sl7-stem-cable-clamp-bolt-black-s204800003/p1245584)
Okay so I finally pulled the trigger on a 168 frameset. Should arrive eventually, and I'm interested to see if I win the quality control + fit/finish lottery ;D
Truthfully I only have one general reason for wanting the 168, which breaks down into smaller sub-details: 2022 Allez Sprint
#1 Geometry - The new Allez Sprint/SL7 is my ideal geometry. Long and low. But the 168 shares the identical geometry.
#2 Weight - However, the Allez Sprint is HEAVY. A size 52 weighs like 1400g. I imagine a 56 is around 1500-1600g.
#3 FSA/ACR/DEDA - Being able to use a handlebar/stem combo of my choice is a total game changer, and no longer restricts me certain frames. Huge thanks to the Chinertown community for putting me on to these headset options.
#4 Price - I was initially drawn to the new Allez Sprint mostly because of the way the frame and headset handles cable routing. But spending $1700 for cable routing sounds silly, knowing what I know now about headset options.
#5 Comparing to my 177, Dengfu R12, and Winspace T1500 - Lots of people have asked me about this. Will be interesting.
Having owned the previous Allez Sprint in rim brake, I'm not exactly expecting an identical ride feeling. And while I like my 177, at the end of the day I live in a flat city where being aero is king. Both in optimizing your position on the bike and your frame/wheel setup. On my weekly club rides we are regularly hitting speeds on the flats around 35mph/56kph. Yikes
VB168 isn't long by any means in any of the sizes, though it is definitely low in all but the 58. If you wanted long and low, I think there are definitely better options around @patliean1
Good news, Chris is going to replace those bars with the separate stem+bar combo, now I pulled the front thru axle out and noticed this...
Should I fill this chip with some sort of epoxy? Not sure if the TA is supported by the carbon here or if the threaded insert bears the weight. I missed this when I first received the frame.
What ever happened to the dropout thread that fastens to the frame?
My Winspace T1500 is a Speeder SC-R49D. Not sure who developed the frame first, or if Speeder is the frame supplier for Winspace.
This is why this community is so cool!
It's a great bike :)
(http://abload.de/img/clipboard-hp7688s7jip.jpg)
It's a great bike :)
(http://abload.de/img/clipboard-hp7688s7jip.jpg)
VB took it out of the program because it was criticized for being too soft. But that's not the case for me. You go through the thread.
Having owned the previous Allez Sprint in rim brake, I'm not exactly expecting an identical ride feeling. And while I like my 177, at the end of the day I live in a flat city where being aero is king. Both in optimizing your position on the bike and your frame/wheel setup. On my weekly club rides we are regularly hitting speeds on the flats around 35mph/56kph. Yikes
On most bikes you can easily insert the bearings. But if you can easily move it back and forth, sideways, you can't.
...
Photo #5 - The blue headset bearing from VB. As you can see the bearing is recessed.
Photo #6 - The black headset bearing is from FSA. Ever so slightly more recessed.
Question: The black headset bearing is slightly more recessed. This preferred in order to better close the headset "gap" when using the FSA C-ring/clip. However, this bearing is very slightly loose in the headtube cup despite being a standard bearing size. Will this be an issue in overall headset play? The included VB headset bearing seats very snug in the headtube.
Be aware that you will find these bearings with different hight, e.g.
- 7mm (https://www.kugellager-shop.net/mh-p16-mhp16-45-45-kugellager-steuersatz.html)
- 8mm (https://www.kugellager-shop.net/mh-p16h8-mhp16h8-45-45-kugellager-steuersatz.html)
I finally went for the stainless steel 7mm version (https://www.kugellager-shop.net/mh-p16-ss-45-45-edelstahl-lenkkopf-kugellager-52x40x7mm.html) to avoid immediate rust and to extend the maintanence period of a fully integrated headset. These bearings are sitting snug but less recessed compared to yours.
My size 56 VB-168 has arrived safely. Unpainted raw carbon. The matte color looks identical to the unpainted Dengfu R12 I built up last winter.
I opted out of handlebars since I'll be using an FSA headset along with my own stem and handlebar (Prime alloy aero bars).
Photo #1 - Everything included
Photo #2 - Frame (incl derailleur hangers and plastic grommets, without water bottle bolts) - 1005g
Photo #3 - Uncut Fork - 412g
Photo #4 - Seatpost w/ Saddle Clamp - 245g
Photo #5 - The blue headset bearing from VB. As you can see the bearing is recessed.
Photo #6 - The black headset bearing is from FSA. Ever so slightly more recessed.
Question: The black headset bearing is slightly more recessed. This preferred in order to better close the headset "gap" when using the FSA C-ring/clip. However, this bearing is very slightly loose in the headtube cup despite being a standard bearing size. Will this be an issue in overall headset play? The included VB headset bearing seats very snug in the headtube.
Photo #5 - The blue headset bearing from VB. As you can see the bearing is recessed.
Photo #6 - The black headset bearing is from FSA. Ever so slightly more recessed.
Question: The black headset bearing is slightly more recessed. This preferred in order to better close the headset "gap" when using the FSA C-ring/clip. However, this bearing is very slightly loose in the headtube cup despite being a standard bearing size. Will this be an issue in overall headset play? The included VB headset bearing seats very snug in the headtube.
I had the same problem with my VB-099.
Unless we both ordered the wrong FSA headset, then the bottom bearing / bearing seat is slightly oversized for VB 099 / 168. The FSA bottom bearing won't work. Way too loose. Top is fine. Also the FSA c-clip is too thin ... there's play on my 099. Going to have to re-do with the fatter new VB one.
As already mentioned i don't like the handlebar and ordered a new shorter straight one
new on has arrived, like the packaging :)
hope i have time on the weekend for mounting and testing
keep you posted
Just uploaded my 168 intro video. There really isn't any "new" information in this particular video that hasn't already been shared in this thread between all of us. However, in the video I do provide evidence that 32c (road) tires fit with no problem. Something that both my Dengfu R12 and VB-177 also claim but is incorrect.
Here in the Midwest of America there are plenty of "Paris Roubaix-style" road races where the roads are too crappy for 25/28c tires but a gravel bike with 38c tires is complete overkill. I'm really looking forward to the versatility of this frame.
YouTube Title: VeloBuild 168 First Look - Allez Sprint Killer?
https://youtu.be/nksJX4KVleQ (https://youtu.be/nksJX4KVleQ)
Just uploaded my 168 intro video. There really isn't any "new" information in this particular video that hasn't already been shared in this thread between all of us. However, in the video I do provide evidence that 32c (road) tires fit with no problem. Something that both my Dengfu R12 and VB-177 also claim but is incorrect.
Here in the Midwest of America there are plenty of "Paris Roubaix-style" road races where the roads are too crappy for 25/28c tires but a gravel bike with 38c tires is complete overkill. I'm really looking forward to the versatility of this frame.
YouTube Title: VeloBuild 168 First Look - Allez Sprint Killer?
However, in the video I do provide evidence that 32c (road) tires fit with no problem. Something that both my Dengfu R12 and VB-177 also claim but is incorrect.
Did that FSA ACR top cap come with the frame?
Otherwise, the problem is that the top cap/compression ring you have is made for recessed bearing frames.
Same issue with my frame as the bearing sits too close to the top. I am not sure which frames are using the recessed method but as FSA is pushing hard and is so popular I will assume there are lots of frames :D
ugh, anyone. want to trade their 168 L frame for my 177 L frame? :)
ahhh now i remember, i wanted a straight seatpost...
Wasting my money...so you don't have to. I ordered a Cane Creek 40 x 52 x 6.5mm thick headset bearing.
https://www.jensonusa.com/Cane-Creek-40-Series-Replacement-Bearing-7?loc=usa&pt_source=googleads&pt_medium=cpc&pt_campaign=&pt_keyword=&gclid=Cj0KCQjw0JiXBhCFARIsAOSAKqD5KiavDmlyikXy-rnS8JT42wdheK8OkTFBk4T1o2HT03GAJOiNRBUaAp8rEALw_wcB (https://www.jensonusa.com/Cane-Creek-40-Series-Replacement-Bearing-7?loc=usa&pt_source=googleads&pt_medium=cpc&pt_campaign=&pt_keyword=&gclid=Cj0KCQjw0JiXBhCFARIsAOSAKqD5KiavDmlyikXy-rnS8JT42wdheK8OkTFBk4T1o2HT03GAJOiNRBUaAp8rEALw_wcB)
Photo #1 - How the 6.5mm thick bearing looks with the FSA top cap. The gap still exists but is less noticeable.
Photo #2 - As you can see, the new headset bearing is nicely recessed into the headtube cup.
Photo #3 - A thickness comparison of each headsets: FSA, VeloBuild, and Cane Creek respectively. I'm not sure if a 6mm or even 5.5mm thick bearing exists on the market, but that would an even better option.
I should also note as others have mentioned, when replacing headset bearings it's important that the diameter is 52mm rather than 51.8mm (like the FSA bearing). This is new Cane Creek is 52 and bearing fits snug without any play whatever so ever in the cup.
VeloBuild put a post up on Instagram not too long ago saying they were going to produce a 0mm offset post for the VB-R-168 after the demand they've seen for the VB-R-099 they recently released.Nooo don't tell me this...I don't have space for another bike! I really want a 168 and a 0 offset post would seal the deal... :D :D :D
I'm sure if you send them a message they'll let you know when it's going to be available.
VeloBuild put a post up on Instagram not too long ago saying they were going to produce a 0mm offset post for the VB-R-168 after the demand they've seen for the VB-R-099 they recently released.
I'm sure if you send them a message they'll let you know when it's going to be available.
I finished my vbr 168 some time ago and have around 500km on it so far.
Great bike, love the looks, and simply the fact that I built it with my bare hands.
Weighting in at 7.3kg incl. pedals, I’d like to review a bit more in detail once I find time.
Question: anyone using the vbr 168 in a Hometrainer? I'm considering getting the Tacx Neo 2T. Preparing for the colder seasons before they get potentially sold out again.
I finished my vbr 168 some time ago and have around 500km on it so far.
Great bike, love the looks, and simply the fact that I built it with my bare hands.
Weighting in at 7.3kg incl. pedals, I’d like to review a bit more in detail once I find time.
Question: anyone using the vbr 168 in a Hometrainer? I'm considering getting the Tacx Neo 2T. Preparing for the colder seasons before they get potentially sold out again.
| Seat post clamp | 6.0Nm |
| Seat post saddle | 8.0Nm |
| Front Derailleur | 4.0Nm |
| Rear Derailleur | 2.0Nm |
| Handlebar mounting | 5.5Nm |
| Shifters on handlebars | 5.0Nm |
| Axle | 10.0Nm |
| Inner width | 38.1mm |
| Outer width | 52mm |
| Height | ???mm |
| Outer Angle | 45deg |
| Inner Angle | 45deg |
Great idea
Ive attached a picture of the axles with the specs. I believe you can get j&l lightweight axles with these specs from ebay
Also, i think the inner diameter of the headset bearing is 40mm, not 38.1mm
Do you have a spec for your build? Mine is 7.9kg's and I'd like to try and loose a bit of weight on it :)
I've also used mine with no problems on my Wahoo Kickr Core trainer. Did maybe 300 km's on it before the weather improved and I've been outdoors since with around 3,500km's clocked so far this year on my 168.
For the headset i requested the specific specs and if the top and bottom are the same. Do you know if the fork is also 31.8? Do you then need a shim or does the compression ring make the fork stay in place? I never had a bike with internal cable routing and i was wondering, why you would want space between the fork and the bearing.
Yes, both top and bottom headset bearings are the same size(if im not mistaken). Sorry, im not sure what the fork diameter where the bearing sits is, but im pretty sure it isnt 31.8 if the bearing is 40mm ID. I think its closer to 40mm. And the fork steerer is 1-1/8" (28.6mm)
You can refer to this video from velobuild for the rest of the headset assembly parts. Btw, this isnt a 168 in the video and some pieces are different different
What are people using for seat post covers, and does the provided saddle clamp also work for 7x9 oversized cable rails?
@Patliean1
Weight? And/or part list with specified weights? :)
~7.8kg without pedals.
The handlebars are pretty heavy, and I've started to prefer aluminum again.
I used A LOT of paint which certainly adds up:
4 coats of paint, 3 coats of clear glitter paint, 4 coats of 2K clear coat. Probably overkill but I wanted to ensure the frame actually turned out white (not grayish) and I wanted the added gloss and protection.
Frameset: VB 168, Size 56
Alloy Aero Handlebars: Prime Doyenne Aero Handlebar (I sold the carbon version of these. It's not worth it in my opinion.)
Stem: Zipp 130mm -17
Headset: FSA NO.69/SRS
Saddle: Specialized Power Expert 143
Wheels: Magene EXAR DB Pro 58
Tires: Conti GP5000s 28 w/ Vittoria Latex Tubes
Cages: Bontrager Carbon
Power Meter: PowerTap P2 Pedals
Ceramic Jockey Wheels: Kogel Bearings
Bottom Bracket: Wheels MFG BB86 Threaded (BEST value and ease of install/service BB on the market)
Groupset: Shimano R8020 (Never had an issue routing mechanical shift cables internally. Park Tool routing kit 8))
My longterm plans for the bike (once this freakin seat post clamp arrives) is for use as my backup fast/race bike, but mostly for long endurance and explore rides. I'm interested to see how it stacks up against my T1500, Allez Sprint, and Dengfu R12.
...just waiting for my saddle clamp to arrive >:(
The seat post is being propped up by cardboard inside the frame for photo purposes LoL
For people who have recently received their frames, how are the disc-brake installation areas faced?
I bought mine awhile back, but the brake mounting points were definitely not faced. And it’s been a bit of a pain. Brake calipers are a nightmare to align and even when you get it, it won’t last long.
The tool to face them is crazy expensive, so I plan to just spend the cash and take it to a local shop and pay them to do it. Don’t really have another option haha
My caliper mounts are not faced either.... Nightmare!
There is NOT ONE single shop in Sweden that carries these tools required. 2 shops have the Park tool DT 5.2 but they are missing the crucial part, the diamond cutter accessory, meaning they can only face alloy and steel frames and NOT carbon.
I mean sure it is expensive, but for a shop buying at much lower prices and not a single shop carrying these precious items... Real bummer! Will have to use a file and do it manually.
The same thing happened to my VB99, a forum user was nice enough to send me the cap faster than Velobuild, will probably receive the thing by the end of this week.Hey Liter,I have the same problem,but can’t get any reply from velobuild,any idea if there is anywhere else I can get this retaining washer?
My suspicion is that if you change the wheel enough that thing will loosen up without Loctite, since I get a lot of flats in my region and I use a smart trainer, I remove the rear wheel many times a week.
Also as promised, i collected all the specs and products from reading every page that i thought matter to collect here: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1NpMFVEhRhZikKWWa3ZGyseyyIX_4spwQJXQ4DVVXCTA/edit#gid=0 (https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1NpMFVEhRhZikKWWa3ZGyseyyIX_4spwQJXQ4DVVXCTA/edit#gid=0)
It includes torque specs, bearing specs, alternative headsets + stems, SL7 parts, bolt specs, geometry table and links for the loctite that i used
Just returned from my VB-168 maiden voyage. Hooray seatpost clamp finally arrived. Did a quick 45km jaunt and here are my initial thoughts. Naturally my opinion will probably change over time...
1. As a "complete" build, I consider the 168 an "everyday" aero bike. It doesn't punish you by being too harsh, and neither is it flexy.
2. No creeks, rattles, or headset play. This is a combination of using a quality threaded BB, cable sound insulation, and the FSA headset working as intended. I also used light thread-locker on both derailleur hanger bolts.
3. No brake rub issues. I purchased brand new Shimano Ultegra rotors and aligning the calipers to them was super easy. Shimano is known to sell rotors that still need to be slightly "trued" upon arrival, but in this case I suppose I won truing lottery. I haven't been so lucky in the past...
4. I am still an advocate that quality wheels are more important than a frame. But I will also include having a proper bike fit and really paying attention to the decision of components at the contact points (saddle and handlebars). A frameset is only one aspect of the complete ride experience, albeit a critical one. As a complete bike with my current components, and assuming everything continues to work as intended, the 168 is a solid value if budget is really tight and if you can only have "one" bike. It doesn't have the same feeling of "urgency" as my Winspace T1500 or Allez Sprint which want you to go fast all the time, and that's okay. Those frames cost 3-4x more and wheels/tire/tube selection also play a huge role. The 168 frame wont be the reason your performance suffers I can assure you...
Regarding the topic of facing the caliper mounts (and subsequently the bottom bracket and headset opening) I spoke to a professional bike mechanic earlier today, who mostly deals with high-end bikes for competitive racing of all disciplines. He says it's very common for new frames from major brands to arrive needing to be faced. Do what you want with this information LoL
Of course my personal experiences and industry conversations are purely anecdotal. I've been fortunate not have any brake rub issues on any of builds due to caliper facing issues. And this is regardless of whether or not a brand actually faced the mounts from the factory. I was concerned my 168 would have facing issues, but the brand new set of trued rotors immediately solved that issue.
I'll follow up in a couple of weeks. Probably.
Just returned from my VB-168 maiden voyage. Hooray seatpost clamp finally arrived. Did a quick 45km jaunt and here are my initial thoughts. Naturally my opinion will probably change over time...
1. As a "complete" build, I consider the 168 an "everyday" aero bike. It doesn't punish you by being too harsh, and neither is it flexy.
2. No creeks, rattles, or headset play. This is a combination of using a quality threaded BB, cable sound insulation, and the FSA headset working as intended. I also used light thread-locker on both derailleur hanger bolts.
3. No brake rub issues. I purchased brand new Shimano Ultegra rotors and aligning the calipers to them was super easy. Shimano is known to sell rotors that still need to be slightly "trued" upon arrival, but in this case I suppose I won truing lottery. I haven't been so lucky in the past...
4. I am still an advocate that quality wheels are more important than a frame. But I will also include having a proper bike fit and really paying attention to the decision of components at the contact points (saddle and handlebars). A frameset is only one aspect of the complete ride experience, albeit a critical one. As a complete bike with my current components, and assuming everything continues to work as intended, the 168 is a solid value if budget is really tight and if you can only have "one" bike. It doesn't have the same feeling of "urgency" as my Winspace T1500 or Allez Sprint which want you to go fast all the time, and that's okay. Those frames cost 3-4x more and wheels/tire/tube selection also play a huge role. The 168 frame wont be the reason your performance suffers I can assure you...
Regarding the topic of facing the caliper mounts (and subsequently the bottom bracket and headset opening) I spoke to a professional bike mechanic earlier today, who mostly deals with high-end bikes for competitive racing of all disciplines. He says it's very common for new frames from major brands to arrive needing to be faced. Do what you want with this information LoL
Of course my personal experiences and industry conversations are purely anecdotal. I've been fortunate not have any brake rub issues on any of builds due to caliper facing issues. And this is regardless of whether or not a brand actually faced the mounts from the factory. I was concerned my 168 would have facing issues, but the brand new set of trued rotors immediately solved that issue.
I'll follow up in a couple of weeks. Probably.
How did you manage with routing the mechanical front derailleur cable?
I am still struggeling with my rubbing headset. Is someone using the FSA No.55R headset? if not, do you think it is possible to use with the integrated cockpit of VB after removing the connection pins?
https://shop.fullspeedahead.com/de/prodotti_1/steuersatze-ersatzteile/no-55r-1-5-acr
Regarding the topic of facing the caliper mounts (and subsequently the bottom bracket and headset opening) I spoke to a professional bike mechanic earlier today, who mostly deals with high-end bikes for competitive racing of all disciplines. He says it's very common for new frames from major brands to arrive needing to be faced. Do what you want with this information LoL
VeloBuild put a post up on Instagram not too long ago saying they were going to produce a 0mm offset post for the VB-R-168 after the demand they've seen for the VB-R-099 they recently released.
I'm sure if you send them a message they'll let you know when it's going to be available.
Was asking Chris and they don't have such plans. Not sure where you have seen this, but it was either not Velobuild or they dumped the plans.
Sounds like the geometry of the 168 isn't for everyone. And that's okay. However, you should probably consider yourself lucky...
I have the opposite problem in that most frames simply aren't long and low enough for me without requiring some extreme length stem.
Not sure which is more extreme: Needing to push the saddle far forward to reduce reach over the bottom bracket, or using a 140mm+ stem to accommodate reach while keeping the stack low.
Thanks @eucalyptus! This really means a lot and I owe the majority of my overall Chinese frame intrigue (and troubleshooting) to the lovely folks in this very forum.
Here is a link to my latest 168 follow-up video. There's probably not a lot of new information in the video if you've spent time in this particular 168 forum/thread. But sometimes it's still nice to see a visual representation.
YouTube Search Title: Velobuild 168 Review - Answering Life's Toughest Question
I finally received my replacement handlebars from Velobuild, check out this creative packaging, no box just a label taped to this!
Received my frame today, something must have gone wrong with the fork I think, as it is not spaced 100mm between the dropouts (see picture).
In contact with Chris already so I'm sure this will get sorted. I'll update when it happens
Other than this it looks good. I'll have an update once I built it up
I seem to be getting nowhere with Chris.
Did Chris stop responding? Did VB refuse to refund or send out a new fork?
What a complete crap shoot...
Chris is replying, but he doesn't seem to acknowledge the issue. He told me that this axle is right for a 100mm hub (something that I agree on), and that I should just try to put my wheels in the fork. The wheels haven't arrived yet (and I have no spare set of 100mm hubbed-wheels lying around, so I can't do this) but I don't know how I could place a 100mm hub wheel in a dropout that measures 82mm. I feel that we've gone in circles in that area for a few emails now, so I've asked him to escalate the issue to his manager or at least acknowledge that I have a problem. I've also mentioned that if this doesn't happen that I will have no other option than to go to Paypal to start the refund claim process. If that's succesful, then I have no idea who will have to fork over the 170USD for shipping the frame back.
Something to add: there was no visible damage on the box when delivered. The fork also has no cracked paint or anything, which I would expect if the fork was bent in transit. I have honestly no clue how this happened, as their mold will be correctly spaced. In the end, it should not be my problem either. I just want a replacement fork.
Will keep everyone up to date.
This entire discussion about questioning the safety/integrity of the fork could have easily been avoided if:
Priority #1 - VeloBuild would have spent 5 extra seconds double checking the thru-axle hardware prior to shipment. Or if customer service (Chris) would have actually inspected the photo the customer provided to clearly see the axle being used.
Priority #2 - We as DIY bike builders evolve to quickly recognize these simple errors as soon as they pop up. Much time and frustration could have been saved on both sides.
Obviously that thru-axle is the wrong size. And I was sent a 168 frame without a seat post clamp, so I empathize with you.
It becomes problematic and dismissive when we quickly default to the "this is a safety concern / all Chinese bikes are dangerous" mentality whenever issues arise. Most times it's simply an issue of hardware (headset bearings/covers, axles, derailluer hangers)
I don't think the problem is the tru axle size. Its the fork spacing that is wrong. If you check most wheels require a 100x12 tru axle spacing of the fork (at least from my quick google search).
I seem to be getting nowhere with Chris. Did anyone have their forks being bent 2cm inwards? I don't think this carbon fork is to be trusted anymore, right? The TA is a standard 130mm TA, and it's fully threaded in on one side. So the fork is just too narrow.
did you measure the inside face to face of the fork? it seems more like the through axle is mismarked for OLD of 130 rather than overall length of 130mm?
Also, a carbon fork cannot be bent or crushed in shippingThat's also the reason I would't try to put a wheel in that fork, even if it fits. Best case scenario it puts tremendous amount of pressure on the wheel and severely degrades the lifespan of the hub and bearings. Worst case, it snaps in half without warning.
A carbon fork either flex a little and goes back to original position
or breaks in half. I cannot be bent like alloy.
In my experience you have to be very clear with what you need an answer to, and be very proactive in the communication. Once shipped I got my order quite quickly: it was delivered in 9 days from Hong Kong to London. I went with XDB shipping and had a tracking code, all in all a good shipping experience.
As for my situation with the fork, Chris has forwarded the pictures I already shared here, as well as a short video I had of the fork to the engineers. I hope it can get resolved that way. Best case scenario they would send me a new fork, I can return the one in my posesssion if they would like that.
How long did it take for them to ship the order?
- The brake mount surfaces are not machined and need facing. One more trip to the bike shop.
What do you mean? Did it affect the installation of the brakes?This will better explain what i'm talking about: Park Tool DT 5.2 https://youtu.be/7EY15jtA6yA (https://youtu.be/7EY15jtA6yA)
I believe what @vTuga is ultimately asking is whether or not the fact the brake mount surfaces aren't faced, actually prevented the brake calipers from being properly aligned.
Ah, yes. They are rubbing constantly on one side and i tried to remount the brakes multiple times. I also use a rotor shim that i put between the brakes and the rotor for spacing. But no matter what, it still rubs. Only thing i can imagine is, that the surface is uneven and therefore there is a tilt in the caliper that is causing the rub.
Have you tried truing the disc rotors with a rotor truing tool or long nose pliers?
I get this issue with the 177 and 099 with some brand new rotors. After truing no more rubbing.
Also check for wobbling wheel hubs / wheels etc.
Anyone else had problems like this here in the forum?
Yeah I had this issue, was impossible to get the calipers to align properly as they were kinda twisted at an angle. I could get it so close, but never right. This week I took it in and got the mounts faced (cost $70 cad) and completely fixed it. Then I had the calipers set up and aligned in minutes.
At first I was a touch annoyed at Velobuild for not doing it at the factory. But since I have talked to a bunch of bike mechanics and they basically all said it’s just part of building up a brand new frame - regardless of price.
I think sometimes maybe we assume things aren’t done cause it’s a cheap frame from china. When in reality a lot of these things and little issues are just industry wide. But when buying a complete bike, someone has already dealt with a resolved them. Obviously that’s just my opinion haha
Do you think an unpainted frame has less chances of getting such problems? Maybe its related to the paint? I'm tempted to change my order to unpainted, if it solves these issues.
I think it exaggerates the issue for sure, but i don't think these surfaces were ever treated during production after they come out of the mold. They probably are roughly prepared for paint and then leave the factory as is.Are you using those flat adapters for 160mm rotors, or are you using 140mm, mounting the calipers directly on the frame?
Do you think an unpainted frame has less chances of getting such problems? Maybe its related to the paint? I'm tempted to change my order to unpainted, if it solves these issues.
Are you using those flat adapters for 160mm rotors, or are you using 140mm, mounting the calipers directly on the frame?
I had my fair share of issues:
- Headset is absolute trash, you can still see the bearings underneath what they call a "seal". Give this 1 ride in the rain and you will grind this down. I will replace those.
Here is my final build now. 8.1 kg including everything, bike computer, bottle cages (with hidden multitool), pedals, mount etc.
I think it turned out great.
I'm going to build my 168 with a SRAM Force AXS groupset, with a DUB crankset. What kind of bottom bracket would you choose? I was leaning towards the official Sram BB86 DUB BB, but I'm worried about the durability. Maybe I should go for a more premium BB, like Kogel, C-Bear or Ceramic Speed? What do you think?
If anything and what also Hambini recommends: try to stick to 24mm axles, they will actually be stiffer and give you more clearance. I know there are rotor aldhu cranks, with 24mm axles, that might be compatible with Sram? Maybe they even have 24mm versions?
From what i heard, C-Bear, Ceramic Speed, Kogel are all shit and overprized. Either go for Sram itself, Hambini or Token. Not sure Hambini has one, but they are also coming with quite a price tag. I heard good things about the token ones (https://www.tokenproducts.com/bottom-brackets/item/546-BB4129) tho, but that was for the thread together design. the DUB diameter is a bit too big for the diameter of BB86.
If anything and what also Hambini recommends: try to stick to 24mm axles, they will actually be stiffer and give you more clearance. I know there are rotor aldhu cranks, with 24mm axles, that might be compatible with Sram? Maybe they even have 24mm versions?
Interesting. I didn´t know of Token. But from a quick search, I haven't found it for sale in Europe.
About the 24mm axles, I could try a Sram crankset with a GXP axle. I don't know if other options exist compatible with 12s sram axs groupsets.
I have a BB92 on my FM-936(same as BB86 but 6mm wider) while I had ordered it as BSA.
Being heavily Hambinized at the time, I was very disappointed(big spindle in small hole = very bad ;D)
But installed a DUB spindle anyway as I had it already.
After a year plus with the SRAM BB86/92 DUB and a heavy usage, races and mud, it is still surprisingly smooth.
On other bikes I tried GXP, BBinfinite(similar to Hambini), BB30, PF30, Wheels mfg and some Aliexpress PF by screw.
On all of these I was changing the bearings once or twice a year.
Moral of the story... for a DUB I would go every time with the SRAM, it is cheap and reliable.
And maybe look for something else only if unlucky, but probably the frame is then the problem (not concentric, or not circular holes) and any alternative won't probably work either.
It's Chinertown's favorite know-it-all, reporting for duty...I've also looked Wheels MFG as a good option, but the price for the BB86 DUB BB is very close to the C-Bears with ceramic bearings (120-140€). Don't know it the Wheels MFG are worth it at that price, it starts to go into premium territory.
-So I had a Kogel Bearings ceramic DUB to BB30 bottom bracket on my Allez Sprint for 6,500mi/10,500km before I sold the bike. The bearings still ran super smooth just as the first day I installed it. No issues with durability. The original reason for installing the Kogel BB was because the standard $50 SRAM DUB bottom bracket completely crapped out on me in less than 500 miles. I was actually warned by a few peers not to use the SRAM DUB BB and..well...$60 down the drain.
-I also now run a Kogel BB86 on my Winspace T1500. So far 1,700mi/2,700km and no issues. Kogel Bearings almost always offers a "free" set of oversized ceramic pulley wheels with every purchase of a ceramic BB. If not for the visual bling bling, this at least mitigates some of the cost of the BB.
-I also run Wheels MFG outboard BBs on all my other bikes (road/gravel/trainer). This in my opinion is the BEST value in bottom brackets on the market today for the price. One thing to note: People have a tendency to over-torque the pre-load adjuster on their crankset which not only prevents the bearings from running as smoothly as they should, but also will destroy the bearings faster than you realize. Just barely finger tight is all you need. Only just enough to remove any crankset play and not a degree turn more.
-Is a $200 bottom bracket worth it? Probably not, and especially not without a "free" set if pulley wheels. But you can actually feel the difference in smoothness when pedaling, albeit marginal. You can't go wrong with Wheels MFG though. They really specialize in that sort of thing.
I'm going to build my 168 with a SRAM Force AXS groupset, with a DUB crankset. What kind of bottom bracket would you choose? I was leaning towards the official Sram BB86 DUB BB, but I'm worried about the durability. Maybe I should go for a more premium BB, like Kogel, C-Bear or Ceramic Speed? What do you think?Like the other person said, your best option would be a Hambini bottom bracket+24mm crank. That being said, if you're a cheap skate like me, i'd get a Thread-fit design BB for 24mm spindle from aliexpress (from brand like GUB, ZTTO,...), swap out the original bearings, change it to NSK/SKF bearings (i forgot the dimension, but just make sure the inner race diameter is 25mm), get a plastic shims for 24mm spindle like for Shimano BB (you can also get this from Aliexpress) and done, you'd get the best bang for buck BB imho. Although Hambini doesn't like that design because of its stiffness (or lack thereof and i agree with him), i dont really care. It works.for me lol.
Here is my final build now. 8.1 kg including everything, bike computer, bottle cages (with hidden multitool), pedals, mount etc.
I think it turned out great.
I'm going to build my 168 with a SRAM Force AXS groupset, with a DUB crankset. What kind of bottom bracket would you choose? I was leaning towards the official Sram BB86 DUB BB, but I'm worried about the durability. Maybe I should go for a more premium BB, like Kogel, C-Bear or Ceramic Speed? What do you think?
I'm going with the sram rival axs, wanted to upgrade to the red crankf or the same reason, but it comes at a heavier pricetag than I wanted to pay. it does look so sharp though!In terms of weight its probably the biggest upgrade you can make, apart from wheelset. Rival AXS crankset weight is 877g (48/35, 172.5). Red crankset is 577g. That's 300g diference. Thats a lot of times the difference in weight between a 5.000$ bike and a 10.000$ one.
In terms of weight its probably the biggest upgrade you can make, apart from wheelset. Rival AXS crankset weight is 877g (48/35, 172.5). Red crankset is 577g. That's 300g diference. Thats a lot of times the difference in weight between a 5.000$ bike and a 10.000$ one.
Yeah I know, it would be the first upgrade I do. I just need to hold out a bit to find a deal on a red 46/33 or 48/35 power crank on ebay.
Headset question: the compression-ring of my headset ends up quite high, and as a result the headset cap does not sit flush with the frame (between 1 and 2mm gap). I've seen others talk about getting a less high bearing, but mine already measures 7mm. Does anyone know if I could find a less high compression ring? My google-skills let me down.
Yeah I know, it would be the first upgrade I do. I just need to hold out a bit to find a deal on a red 46/33 or 48/35 power crank on ebay.
My 168 raked more than 9000km outdoor and indoor now. No issues other than creaking headset.
And recently, I've tried to change its attitude. And it worked! Here it is.
Conti Terra Speed 650x35B on Hunt Adventure Sport wheels.
My 168 raked more than 9000km outdoor and indoor now. No issues other than creaking headset.
And recently, I've tried to change its attitude. And it worked! Here it is.
Conti Terra Speed 650x35B on Hunt Adventure Sport wheels.
Anyone tried to fit "The One Pro" Handlebar to the 168?
I don't think that would be an issue at all looking at how easy it is to fit any headset to the Velobuild
I would recommend to buy directly from the manufacturer instead of all the resellers on Aliexpres.... I bought one and it feels pretty decent. TOP NOTCH finish, looks like any $3-400 handlebar
https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/T1000-Carbon-Bike-Handlebar-Fully-Internal_1600457733782.html?spm=a2756.order-detail-ta-bn-b.0.0.3acc2fc2w9Nt1I
Note* that a 400 bar measures 400mm C-C drop to drop and actually is 385mm C-C hood to hood.
Weight is 350g for a 400x100mm bar, 337g without screws and the heavy clamping plate (cast iron or something)
Stripping the thin layer of paint saves you 5 gram.
Finally done. Took it for a quick 10 mile ride and it feels faster than my CAAD 7. Still need to put on the bar tape.How on earth did you built with such a good price? Nice job
Total Cost ~$1,900 USD
Frame (http://www.velobuild.com/products/2021-vb-r-168-carbon-fiber-road-frame-disc-version-integrated-hidden-cables) VeloBuild VB-R-168 (56)
Wheels (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/-/2255801178837438.html?spm=a2g0s.8937460.0.0.816c2e0eAo5LYi) CSC 55mm x 25mm
Brakes (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/2255799928780428.html) Juin Tech F1
Cranks Shimano Ultegra 52/39
Shifters Shimano 105
Front Derailleur Shimano 105
Rear Derailleur Shimano 105
Rear Light (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/2255800443488685.html) ROCKBROS Bike Light LED Bicycle IPx6
Cassette Sunshine 11/32
Bottom Bracket (https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/2251832835484740.html) ZTTO BB86
Chain Zrace
Bottle Cages (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/2255800060566674.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.0.0.21ef1802CAk1mM)
Garmin Mount (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/2255800767579734.html) OG Evkin CM-005s
Tires Continental ULTRA SPORT III 700*28c
I don't think that would be an issue at all looking at how easy it is to fit any headset to the Velobuild
I would recommend to buy directly from the manufacturer instead of all the resellers on Aliexpres.... I bought one and it feels pretty decent. TOP NOTCH finish, looks like any $3-400 handlebar
https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/T1000-Carbon-Bike-Handlebar-Fully-Internal_1600457733782.html?spm=a2756.order-detail-ta-bn-b.0.0.3acc2fc2w9Nt1I
Note* that a 400 bar measures 400mm C-C drop to drop and actually is 385mm C-C hood to hood.
Anyone tried to fit "The One Pro" Handlebar to the 168?The headset cover provided with the OEM bar (which looks like is the samE top cap provided with THE ONE PRO bar) does not fit the 168. The headset covef is far too narrow for the 168's headtube. I had to drill allignment holes into the one set of provided spacers to make it fit with the original 168 top cap. Then I wrapped the spacers and topcap in electrical tape to cover the exposed gaps. Its not the prettiest solution but it will do for now. I will one day glue together the top cap and spacer then use a filler to fill in and make a smooth join between the two pieces
Can you actually get single items from Alibaba? And if so, how? I thought that’s only wholesale and for retail you have aliexpress.Its possible but it depends on the seller. Some sellers offer minimums of 1 whereas others may require higher minimums. You just have to check. Also some sellers (like in this case) offer samples. Just message the seller and request a sample and they will send you an invoice
Does anyone know the type of screw for the seatpost clamp?
It's getting colder and wetter here and i've seen the bottlecage, seatpost and seatpost clamp screws already starting to rust. For the bottlecages it's an easy replacement. For the seatpost i think i got the specs already in my sheet. However for the clamp i cannot figure out the style. I'm german, so i cannot really tell on how you would call the screw, that is basically only a thread and has a hex inserted in the screw.
Another thing is about the handlebar screws. Seems like it's M5 or M4, that has a nut that you need to put in another hex key at the other side to tighten it. I had a handlebar from china before and it had the same style. All my other stems just have threads inside of them. I cannot figure out the name of the screw either. I found one handlebar screw on Aliexpress that is titanium from "Risk", but in case that ever fails i don't want to order stuff that takes 30 days+ to eventually arrive. So if anyone knows the type of screw on the handlebars, i would greatly appreciate the name and specs!
I can't remember, but not that long for me.
I was in contact with Chris recently and they did have some covid-related delays for sending my replacement forks, it might've affected you to? Although my forks were shipped September 7th, so that's after you got your code (implying yours should be shipped to). just contact Chris.
I can't remember, but not that long for me.
I was in contact with Chris recently and they did have some covid-related delays for sending my replacement forks, it might've affected you to? Although my forks were shipped September 7th, so that's after you got your code (implying yours should be shipped to). just contact Chris.
Chris changed it for free?
Yes, replacement forks are on the way for free. Was going to post an update on the whole process when they arrived. The gist of it is that after some back and forth by email (it did take me a week to get my point accross), they sent me a new fork free of charge. I did get quite frustrated with the process, since I'm not sure why it took them so long to see that my fork was clearly not up to spec. In the end, if the new replacement fork is fine, it was not that bad.That is great news. Nice to see that velobuild came through and solved the issue. That actually makes me much more confident in them.
I missed a cycling trip because of it (or actually this bike on a cycling trip), but that wasn't the end of the world.
Question....I am going to build a 218 and use SRAM Rival etap. Someone stated that the DUB BB is not recommended per VB, is that correct? I will reach out to VB.
Allright, my replacement fork finally arrived and looks fine, going to start building the bike over the next few days. Does anyone have a list of how torque specs for the handlebars, seatpost, etc?
The handlebars have this grippy bit to attach the levers, but it doesn't reach high enough, I guess I'll just put some carbon paste (and maybe even a soda can shim) a bit higher. has anyone had the same issue?
today first parts of my sram force Etap has atrived
unforunately no news on the frame and wheels
What BB did you get?
Not the person you were asking, but I got a similar setup (full sram rival), and it's the sram dub pressfit BB.
I keep reading mixed things about it, some say it's not reliable in theory because of smaller bearings, some say it lasted them forever. I'm expecting it wont last me as long as a BB for a 24mm spindle, but whatever.
Yep they are the goldix 24mm crankarms. Ordered before tracevelo video was posted. Before his video I was concerned with the hollow cranks. He just added another layer to be cautious about.
Once I get replacement crankarms, if these suck, or they fail I'll post up. I have 7000 crankarms so I'm can swap at any point.
Hi Everyone - tall rider question here.
I have spoken to Chris/Chris's regarding frame sizing (VB 168/199) - as i'm quite tall (1,96) with most of the height in my legs. My current bike has a seat rail-to-crank distance of 84 CM. With the VB 168 (56cm) frame the 40cm seatpost will have to come out to the max (10cm left in the seat-tube). It also means it will stick out by a good 30CM + saddle.
That might look quite odd but not technically an issue.
Any other tall riders on a 168? I might have to look at other frames that come in larger sizing/longer seat tubes.
Thanks - yeah, quite the opposite here. Inseam of 96 cm or so. Really like the look of the 168 though, but wish it was slightly larger - especially the seat tube.
It's done
Velobuild VB-R-168
SRAM Force AXS Disc 12v
Cassete 10-33
Crankset 46/33 - 165mm
Elitewheels Drive 50D
Pedals - Favero Assioma Duo
Tires Continental GP5000 Cream 25c
Tubolitos
Bartape Lizardskins 1.8mm
Garmin Edge 830
Garmin Varia RTL515
Weight: 7.6kg
(With pedals, garmin mount and bottle cages)
I love the paint job! Looks awesome, nice job
It's done
Weight: 7.6kg
(With pedals, garmin mount and bottle cages)
It's done
Velobuild VB-R-168
SRAM Force AXS Disc 12v
Cassete 10-33
Crankset 46/33 - 165mm
Elitewheels Drive 50D
Pedals - Favero Assioma Duo
Tires Continental GP5000 Cream 25c
Tubolitos
Bartape Lizardskins 1.8mm
Garmin Edge 830
Garmin Varia RTL515
Weight: 7.6kg
(With pedals, garmin mount and bottle cages)
Class! What was your cost?Thanks. Total cost including all the tools and accessories I had to buy to assemble it all myself, was 4k€. I think it’s a great price comparing it to bikes with the same components and comparable specs. A Tarmac SL7 Pro AXS costs 9.200€ and weights 7.6kg without pedals.
Thanks. Total cost including all the tools and accessories I had to buy to assemble it all myself, was 4k€. I think it’s a great price comparing it to bikes with the same components and comparable specs. A Tarmac SL7 Pro AXS costs 9.200€ and weights 7.6kg without pedals.
Ok fits, mine with ASX Red weighs 7.5 with pedals.
Costs €5000.
A great bike for the money, and on par with a SL7 Tarmac.
Equivalently I would have to spend over 10k.
Yes. I think Red is about 300g less than Force. I did however save a little weight on the wheelset (weight is 1300g, very light for 50mm depth), carbon saddle (115g), tubolitos (2x40g), tires (240g each), and bartape (50g).
"weight is 1300g, very light for 50mm depth"
what is the innerwidt?
180 DT - 50C - CX - Ray LIGHTCARBON
with 22mm inner width 1470 g
I want to get this frame but I am not certain which size would best fit me (49cm or 52cm). I'm 5'4.5 with a 29" inseam, 50 years old. I am currently riding a Trek Emonda 2015 52cm with a 80cm stem. I am leaning to towards the 49cm frame since the offset in the seatpost would add to the effective top tube length and reach. My concerns about the 49cm frame is the low stack. I'm not sure if my 50 year old back can handle such a low stack.
The big one only if your torso is very long
I been trying to figure out the biggest frame I can with and still trying to find. I have a 76 to 80 mm inseam. And I am 182cm tall. I have a very long spine. I might even have and extra vertebrae.
Amazing how much variance there is in inseam/height. I'm 3 cm shorter than you with almost 5 cm more inseam! How are you measuring your inseam? What is your usual saddle height? Based on your height I would say 56 cm but based on your inseam 54 cm (with a long stem).
My current ride has a 58cm seat tube. and about a 57cm top. and 170cm cranks. it feels a bit big in the saddle. I have the seat post 3cm from slammed.I agree size 56 cm sounds like the best for you just to get the reach right for your torso while still having some exposed seatpost. I have size 54 cm and my saddle height (74 cm to top of saddle from BB) is higher than you, but I have a short torso and long limbs. Might want to get the separate bar/stem option so you can fine tune reach too.
I agree size 56 cm sounds like the best for you just to get the reach right for your torso while still having some exposed seatpost. I have size 54 cm and my saddle height (74 cm to top of saddle from BB) is higher than you, but I have a short torso and long limbs. Might want to get the separate bar/stem option so you can fine tune reach too.
Anyone else have issue with the separate bar and stem? The holes in the bars are way too small to make the turns needed
Completed my build the other day. Haven't taken it out on a real ride but a quick shakedown ride and the bike feels great so far. Didn't have any issues with the install although trying to run 4 cables through the integrated cockpit was a massive pain. Parts list:
Frame: VB-R-168 Size 52
Groupset: Mechanical 105
Brakes: Juin Tech F1
Wheels: Roval Terra CL
Tires: GP5000 32c
Completed my build the other day. Haven't taken it out on a real ride but a quick shakedown ride and the bike feels great so far. Didn't have any issues with the install although trying to run 4 cables through the integrated cockpit was a massive pain. Parts list:
Frame: VB-R-168 Size 52
Groupset: Mechanical 105
Brakes: Juin Tech F1
Wheels: Roval Terra CL
Tires: GP5000 32c
looks really good, paint was done by velobuild or you?
Paint was done by VB and everything came out as I had requested it. The paint looks amazing and they did a really great job with the finishing. I do think the paint is a bit on the thin side as I've already got a small chip on the fork during assembly. not a huge deal but something to be mindful of when caring for the bike.
starting to look like a bike
waiting on OG-Evkin stem and bars to arrive, wasn't happy with the provided bar and stem because of cable routing tightness
Just received a size 52 frame in matte black with the separate bar and stem. https://imgur.com/a/F90D6Bd
Shipped 8 days after the order was placed and shipping took 7 days to Pennsylvania. Overall, I'm impressed for the price. Frame with derailleur hanger is 1020 grams - about 100g more than what I would expect a genuine Tarmac frame and 200g more than the S-Works. Not bad. The rest of the components come in at very respectable weights. The bar and stem are quite a bit lighter than the Tarmac system and I could save 100g with a lightweight seatpost from Aliexpress.
The frame and fork are clean from what I can see other than some imperfections in the paint work that I wouldn't expect to get through QC for a name brand frame. BB looks good and it remains to be seen whether the brake mounts will need faced.
Hey guys, may I missed it. Is the seatpost available for 7x9mm saddles? Have some carbon AliExpress in my workshop and would like to use em
That's great, pictures v promising!
Will be curious to hear about how you feel about ride quality, road feel, vs branded frames you've tried. Diabetic cycling and GC performance have both recently posted videos saying that the VB Pinarello clone rides "heavy" and wouldn't want them as main bikes, despite being light, stiff where you want it stiff, compliant where you want it compliant, tracking well, aero and so on.
the horror as I see there no tires and its on concrete. Think of the scratches
I placed my order for my 168 on 10/13/22 with custom paint of blue/purple chameleon blue. To my surprise, I just received the frame 10/31/22. On the front fork, I noticed the hole for the front brake line is on the right hand side of the steerer tube. I expected the hole to be in the middle of the steerer tube. Will this be a problem running the brake line from the right side of the steerer tube to the left fork for the disc brake?
Hole placement looks absolutely fine! It is done so for smoother movement between hose/fork/frame to reduce twisting.
Remember to tape the hose, every S-works SL7 I have seen built, the mechanics tape the hose just above the steerer hole to keep the hose in place. Any slack should be inside the frame.
any picture of that taping?
You can see it here :)
https://youtu.be/kV2tiHzWe6A?t=177
I have a couple of road races coming up with significant amounts of gravel sections, so I have been trying to maximize the tire space in the frame. The split for one race is around 15% tame gravel/85% asphalt and 45% tame gravel / 55% asphalt for the other.How did the 34c Schwalbes work out for you on the 168? I got some feedback that 34-35mm actual width would be real tight/rubbing from @kbike and @patliean1 but then there are guys like you where it seems to be fine. Pretty confusing...
I have been looking for high volume road tyres with lower rolling resistance compared to gravel tires.
I currently have Vittoria Terreno Zero's in 32c and they are very puncture resistant but noticeably slower than a road tire (as it probably should be). Very good if there is a high risk of punctures or a need for more grip.
Schwalbe have a 34c model of their Pro One Evo TLE which I picked up. I mounted them on Light Bicycle WR45's which are 25mm internal (hooked). They measure 33,5mm.
Surprisingly there is still a bit of space. Obviously they are narrower than advertised but it probably also has to do with the lack of knobs and that the wide rim gives the tire a lower profile.
I would say if you have wide rims the bike could probably handle a 35mm WAM slick tire if you can live with minimal mud clearance. Anyone wanna sponser me some Rene Herse Bon Jon Pass ;D ?
How did the 34c Schwalbes work out for you on the 168? I got some feedback that 34-35mm actual width would be real tight/rubbing from @kbike and @patliean1 but then there are guys like you where it seems to be fine. Pretty confusing...my understanding is it wouldn't. Also, it shouldn't.
starting to look like a bikeMay I ask which color and finish this is, done by VB?
waiting on OG-Evkin stem and bars to arrive, wasn't happy with the provided bar and stem because of cable routing tightness
I’ve got about 250 miles on my vb-r 168 after some initial problems ( some my own) I’m pretty impressed compared to my tried and true pinarello f10
Those bars look very similar to the bars I received with my frame.
Hey Berzerko!
Nice build - thanks for sharing. This is an Ultrega Di2 (the new one?), isn't it?
I want to build up the 168 frame with a Di2 group set as well. Did you face any issues building up with the group? How and where did you fix the battery inside the frame/seat post?
Thanks,
eico
Nice build Berzerko! My two cents on buliding up the 168 with Di2 (mix of old and new gen stuff, all 11sp). Everything went smooth for me except for the wire to the FD. The metal grommet that I got with the frame was too narrow for the head of the wire to come through, so I just drilled it out a bit and all was ok after. Note that if you take it out to drill, which you probably should, it can sometimes be tricky to mount it back to the frame with the screw it comes with. Was fine for me. Also, possible you get a different type of grommet that makes things easier.
I like the matching decals on the OSPW! Those decals, they're just slapped onto the frame, or the process is more involved (clear coat and what not)?
Hey Berzerko!
Nice build - thanks for sharing. This is an Ultrega Di2 (the new one?), isn't it?
I want to build up the 168 frame with a Di2 group set as well. Did you face any issues building up with the group? How and where did you fix the battery inside the frame/seat post?
Thanks,
eico
Hey Berzerko!
Nice build - thanks for sharing. This is an Ultrega Di2 (the new one?), isn't it?
I want to build up the 168 frame with a Di2 group set as well. Did you face any issues building up with the group? How and where did you fix the battery inside the frame/seat post?
Thanks,
eico
I have a couple of road races coming up with significant amounts of gravel sections, so I have been trying to maximize the tire space in the frame. The split for one race is around 15% tame gravel/85% asphalt and 45% tame gravel / 55% asphalt for the other.
I have been looking for high volume road tyres with lower rolling resistance compared to gravel tires.
I currently have Vittoria Terreno Zero's in 32c and they are very puncture resistant but noticeably slower than a road tire (as it probably should be). Very good if there is a high risk of punctures or a need for more grip.
Schwalbe have a 34c model of their Pro One Evo TLE which I picked up. I mounted them on Light Bicycle WR45's which are 25mm internal (hooked). They measure 33,5mm.
Surprisingly there is still a bit of space. Obviously they are narrower than advertised but it probably also has to do with the lack of knobs and that the wide rim gives the tire a lower profile.
I would say if you have wide rims the bike could probably handle a 35mm WAM slick tire if you can live with minimal mud clearance. Anyone wanna sponser me some Rene Herse Bon Jon Pass ;D ?
https://i.imgur.com/LUewidQ.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/WiJCmBA.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/SQofeJI.jpg
Does anyone know if a 700x32 (not 38) Pathfinder Pro (or any knobbier tire) would fit in fork/frame? If so, can you take pictures of the clearance? It seams like the 32mm pathfinders or a Vittoria Terreno Dry may just barely squeak in there, assisted by some invisi-frame protection, if those 34's fit in, but the fork does taper in sharply around where knobs would be.
Inspiration: https://www.bikeradar.com/features/pro-bike/gianni-vermeersch-canyon-ultimate-cfr-2022-gravel-world-championships/#:~:text=Belgium's%20Gianni%20Vermeersch%20soloed%20to,Championships%20%E2%80%93%20riding%20a%20road%20bike (https://www.bikeradar.com/features/pro-bike/gianni-vermeersch-canyon-ultimate-cfr-2022-gravel-world-championships/#:~:text=Belgium's%20Gianni%20Vermeersch%20soloed%20to,Championships%20%E2%80%93%20riding%20a%20road%20bike).
I am considering the 168 with 2 wheelsets: one with my 25mm GP5k's and another with a knobbier tire for light gravel and training use. If there's not enough clearance for a 32 gravel tire, then I may just bump up to the new CX-002 and a 38. Thanks!
That was me with the gk ss 32mm. I couldn't get my clement(donnelly) 33mm pdx and mxp cx tires to work. The side knobs rubbed fork and chainstays.Ok, thanks for the confirmation and testing! Do you have any clearance shots of the GK-SS's?
Hello all,
I would like to order my frame from Velobuild tomorrow at the latest (BlackFriday).
I was actually sure at the beginning that I want a VBR-168. However, through various videos and forum posts I am now again considering between VBR-168, VBR-177 and VBR-218.
Visually, I like the VBR-168 the best. I'm just tormented by the question: are the other two frames better in terms of speed/aerodynamics/weight in conjunction with comfort and workmanship/material?
In general, it's pretty flat where we live. I like to go fast and don't let it roll, but do not participate in competitions.
I currently ride a Focus Culebro SL 1.0 from 2015 in size M with the following geometry: https://geometrygeeks.bike/bike/focus-culebro-3-0-2014/
I'm 172cm tall with a 78cm inseam (short legs). It is my first bike and I sit there actually quite well on it, only problem: The seatpost is only minimally extended due to my short legs. So I would like to have a shorter seat tube on the new bike. My optimal seat height is 69cm.
For VBR-168 Chris has advised me to size S 52. For the others I have no info yet.
1. which frame of the three would you choose and why?
2. what size should I choose for 218 and 177?
3. how to order a special color that is not in the store? By email?
4. what is the difference between EMS and XDB shipping to Germany? Which one should I take? I'll have 2 frames sent to me right away. Other is GF-002 for my wife.
Hope you can give me some advice.
Timo
About Sizing: Why you should go for a 52 on the 168 I dont understand. This is way smaller. Have you compared the bikes on geometrygeeks.bike?
I went for the 168 as I wanted to have something in between climbing and aero. You may be aware of the integrated stem/bar combo as it's like the Metron 5d with foward bend.
Color: You order, then get a mail by chris with your color wishes and send him pantone codes. Then you get a mockup to approve, tada!
Shipping to Germany: Go for XDB. No additional taxes as it comes via Belgium or Netherlands to Germany.
With the color I have now understood everything. But still looking for the right dark red shiny color as in the posted picture. Is there a pantone color palette somewhere?
XDB check :-)
Just received a size 52 frame in matte black with the separate bar and stem. https://imgur.com/a/F90D6Bd
Shipped 8 days after the order was placed and shipping took 7 days to Pennsylvania. Overall, I'm impressed for the price. Frame with derailleur hanger is 1020 grams - about 100g more than what I would expect a genuine Tarmac frame and 200g more than the S-Works. Not bad. The rest of the components come in at very respectable weights. The bar and stem are quite a bit lighter than the Tarmac system and I could save 100g with a lightweight seatpost from Aliexpress.
The frame and fork are clean from what I can see other than some imperfections in the paint work that I wouldn't expect to get through QC for a name brand frame. BB looks good and it remains to be seen whether the brake mounts will need faced.
I plan to build up with Ultegra hydro mechanical disc and HED 60/90 wheels from another bike. I was planning on using an FSA ACR headset and stem, but the ACR headset leaves a noticeable gap with the top of the headtube and adds more stack than I would like, so I may modify the included headset cap to fit flush with the ACR stem, which should accommodate full internal routing and look clean. The included stem is actually a bit lighter, but I prefer the look of the FSA. TBD.
Instead of the included 40cm bars, which look OK but are too wide for my fit, I will be using "The One" handlebar in 36cm. Its pretty shamelessly "inspired" by the Enve SES handlebars, which I have on hand for another planned build. Without having ridden either one yet, the build quality and finish looks comparable to the Enve and is a bit lighter. Neither feel like they will noticeably flex under load.
I don't thinkt thats normal,
first check the length of the fork
second check the expander, sometimes it happens that it becomes loose
I finally received my frame and am really surprised by the quality.
Now the first questions come after I have looked at the headset.
1. is a distance of about 1 mm between top tube and top cover normal?
2. is it correct that the stem rests on the small pins of the spacer?
3. the standard top cap is exchanged for the cap from Velobuild?
Thanks a lot! :)
Eico
1. Yes. It rotates so cannot be perfectly flush with headtube
2. The stem should have small indentations where those pins go. Make sure you align the stem exactly so indentations match with pins on spacers.
3. Yes. I am not a fan of that VB cap. You can't have those fancy caps on Ali express fit on it.
1. Yes. It rotates so cannot be perfectly flush with headtube
2. The stem should have small indentations where those pins go. Make sure you align the stem exactly so indentations match with pins on spacers.
3. Yes. I am not a fan of that VB cap. You can't have those fancy caps on Ali express fit on it.
@eico seatpost clamp cover is original from Specialized SL7 Tarmac?
The top cap that came with the integrated handlebar did not fit nicely. I decided to just use the top cap from the compression plug.
(https://i.imgur.com/a9U51Zv.png)
(https://i.imgur.com/a9U51Zv.png)
unluckily I need to stop as they forgot to put the compression ring into the package :(
Any advice for a suitable replacement which is commonly available?
I think any compression plug will be suitable. the diameter is standard, and carbon is carbon. Giant makes oversized steerers but that's niche. 99% of steerers have a standard diameter AFAIK. Obviously get something that will apply force in the right area given your spacers & stem. But that again is standard. if you re not bothered by weight get something tall rather than tiny. More clamping area = more load distribution = less likely to snap.I think we talk about something different.
Ordered and got the tracking number a couple days ago. UPS still hasn't picked up the frame though (hopefully they pick it up tomorrow China time).
Went with the matte metallic navy blue like some others in this thread, going to build it up with a Force ETAP group and some Elite Wheels.
Any handy tools to buy other than the usual stuff? I just got a pressfit bb tool, and an offbrand bleed kit. I have all the allen keys/torque wrenches/grease/etc you could ever need.
Is there any news for the 0 offset seatpost?
Hey guys,
For the front thru-axle, I feel like the one that came with my frame might not be correct. Its the right size but the I'm not sure about the where the bolt head contacts the fork.
Basically it sits flush on the outside of the fork, directly on the carbon. However, it has grip serrations on the bottom of it so if you twist it in it basically grinds the paint off and maybe eventually the carbon? Is this correct or should I ask/buy a different thru axle.
Have you got a photo?
Here it is
After some luking and reading all the thread... Finally order a 168.
It will be dress with Rival/Force AXS bits and probably a Ryet 40mm wheelset.
I hope to be on the 8kg edge... Let's see!
I don't want to go through all the posts again, I'm just considering whether to order the set with a separate stem and handlebars...
Did any of you manage to integrate the parts supplied by Velobuild with hydraulic brakes and mechanical shifters without causing problems?
I don't want to go through all the posts again, I'm just considering whether to order the set with a separate stem and handlebars...
Did any of you manage to integrate the parts supplied by Velobuild with hydraulic brakes and mechanical shifters without causing problems?
LoL yes.
Yes, but with FSA components, right?
Has anyone been as cheeky as to ask Velobuild to replicate a paint scheme directly from Specialized?
I've been emailing with Chris and he's confident that they would be able to do a glossy-to-matte finish ala Red Tint - Black Satin (picture provided).
Have any of you ordered the 168 (or any VB) with a transition like that?
Cheers!
Has anyone been as cheeky as to ask Velobuild to replicate a paint scheme directly from Specialized?
I've been emailing with Chris and he's confident that they would be able to do a glossy-to-matte finish ala Red Tint - Black Satin (picture provided).
Have any of you ordered the 168 (or any VB) with a transition like that?
Cheers!
They seem to be able to do a decent job on transitions. Check out the paint job they did on my GF-002 http://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,3499.msg36962.html#msg36962
I didn't have any specific requirements and just asked that the color fade from one to another, so maybe if you wanted a longer transition they could do that as well.
I know this was asked like a year ago, but thought I would follow up. Has anyone tried and found a direct mount derailleur hanger that works for the vbr168?
Stumbled on these on Ali and was tempted, but not sure about if any would work.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004545854616.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.3.5a3b571ahIjVub&algo_pvid=a151bde9-9936-474b-8420-aaf6402c1a0b&algo_exp_id=a151bde9-9936-474b-8420-aaf6402c1a0b-1&pdp_ext_f=%7B%22sku_id%22%3A%2212000029559594136%22%7D&pdp_npi=3%40dis%21CAD%2118.46%216.19%21%21%21%21%21%40211bd8be16764112249635138d0763%2112000029559594136%21sea%21CA%210&curPageLogUid=VkTffr2goehC (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004545854616.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.3.5a3b571ahIjVub&algo_pvid=a151bde9-9936-474b-8420-aaf6402c1a0b&algo_exp_id=a151bde9-9936-474b-8420-aaf6402c1a0b-1&pdp_ext_f=%7B%22sku_id%22%3A%2212000029559594136%22%7D&pdp_npi=3%40dis%21CAD%2118.46%216.19%21%21%21%21%21%40211bd8be16764112249635138d0763%2112000029559594136%21sea%21CA%210&curPageLogUid=VkTffr2goehC)
I've been after this for a while as well and no luck. I'm seeing more direct hangers come out that look like they would fit but it seems like the VB design is fairly unique, or doesn't match what is out there yet. Looking at the options in the ad, it would seem like a few could work but they don't quite fit from what I can see.
a direct hanger has advantages over a regular one for Shimano rear derailleurs on top of being lighter.
Here’s mine.
Was able to put 100k on it before the weather got cold again. (this was seconds before I noticed my saddle slipped backwards lol).
Brakes took a shake down ride to bed in and then re-adjust to stop rubbing but the facing seems fine.
55mm elite wheels ent
sram force + rival crank
pirrelli pzero race 26mm tubeless
velobuild integrated bar/stem
Color looks dope! What color is it?
Matte metallic blue.
I sent them a pic of someone else’s in the same colour.
You still need 160mm adapters. The compatibility means that the frame and fork are both strengthened enough to handle force generated by 160mm rotors while braking.
Lol tell me. I bought so many (redundant) parts either from Amazon or LBS, some even local hardware store and of course Ali-ex. But it didn't end at that. My build is long done and I still buy parts...
Lol tell me. I bought so many (redundant) parts either from Amazon or LBS, some even local hardware store and of course Ali-ex. But it didn't end at that. My build is long done and I still buy parts...
Built mine.
The paint quality was ok, especially the fork was not too good.
One nose close to the racecrown and had to machine some clear coat off the dropouts to fit the hub in. Fork also was repainted as I had some different color below.
The mounting points of the brakes also must be cleared from excessive paint.
But ride quality is good! More comfortable than my previous venge
Did you really put S-Works decals on your frame?
Hey guys, new to the forum. Wanted to show my upcoming 168 build. I’ll link the weightweenies thread at the bottom as well for a more in-depth build process. My painted size 58 came in at 1,155g with 380g for the cut fork. Not bad with the white paint. The fork is well under a lot of what I’ve seen here and I’m wondering if it’s a different fork, or one from the 177. So a question for the group: did your fork have an integrated crown race or did you need one? I needed one (you can see from the picture below) and they supplied it thankfully, but from pictures on here it seems most other have an integrated crown race and I’m thinking I got a different fork. Other quick thoughts on the cockpit. Has anybody tried the Allez top cap with the SL7 stem. Seems like it would work pretty well. And for the hanger, I have a Cube on order that is supposed to be the direct mount hanger compatible with this frame. Plus, it has the benefit of having the threads on the outer piece, adding a safety mechanism should the small screw fall out.
Hey guys, new to the forum. Wanted to show my upcoming 168 build. I’ll link the weightweenies thread at the bottom as well for a more in-depth build process. My painted size 58 came in at 1,155g with 380g for the cut fork. Not bad with the white paint. The fork is well under a lot of what I’ve seen here and I’m wondering if it’s a different fork, or one from the 177. So a question for the group: did your fork have an integrated crown race or did you need one? I needed one (you can see from the picture below) and they supplied it thankfully, but from pictures on here it seems most other have an integrated crown race and I’m thinking I got a different fork. Other quick thoughts on the cockpit. Has anybody tried the Allez top cap with the SL7 stem. Seems like it would work pretty well. And for the hanger, I have a Cube on order that is supposed to be the direct mount hanger compatible with this frame. Plus, it has the benefit of having the threads on the outer piece, adding a safety mechanism should the small screw fall out.
What's it to you? Let the man do what he wants. I find it good jest to be honest.
Nice! Looking forward to seeing the build and hearing how the direct hangers works out. Do you have a link for it? Nice work on the 3D covers.
I just ordered this one, labeled H784. The first one I ordered was the 906 which is the wrong one. The 906 is too small and the outer piece is flat. The 784 has a bigger outer piece with a conical shape to where it meshes with the frame. Some pictures below.
Edit: Also, it will change the thru axle needed from a 1.5 thread pitch to a 1.0. May be a deal breaker with the smaller threads. I'd rather have 1.5 but it's fine. I'd rather have the direct mount and have an axle ready.
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256803598543431.html?spm=a2g0o.order_detail.order_detail_item.4.6504f19cFOTG0h&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa&_randl_shipto=US
https://www.rearmechhanger.com/product/rear-gear-mech-derailleur-hanger-cc251/
Wrong outer piece (flat)
Stock outer piece (cone)
ist the transition from glossy to matte?
Has anyone figured out a way to get a lower offset seatpost or zero offset seatpost? That's the last thing stopping me from getting this bike.
Build is finally done! Pretty happy with the Spechinalized S-Wok :D
It’s a tribute to PatLino. I know you can’t get enough of my decals! ;D
It would be pretty hilarious if you actually put “S-Wok” on it.
has anyone on here fitted a "the one pro" handlebar to their 168? is there a headset cover that fits the frame?
Noticed my FD mount was a little loose. Took it off and noticed this.Is that just the paint cracking? Looks like the rivnut coming loose. Happened on my 177, a good shop should be able to fix it pretty easy. Mine charged $25.
Is the plug pulling out from the carbon?
Is that just the paint cracking? Looks like the rivnut coming loose. Happened on my 177, a good shop should be able to fix it pretty easy. Mine charged $25.
has anyone on here fitted a "the one pro" handlebar to their 168? is there a headset cover that fits the frame?
Finally... Done! (Sorry for the english, I´m not native).
The components are mainly:
-Velobuild framset, integrated handlebar and bits.
- Sram Rival axs with 48-35 cranks
- Cassete Wuzei 11-34
- CSC 45MM 28MM Widht (1525g)
- Tyres Schwalbe ONE (not de pro) TLR 28c
- Aliexpress Gineyea BB
- Favero Assioma Duo Pedals
Size 54, weight about 8.1/8.2kg with pedals, bottle cages and Garmin mount.
Very happy becouse tyres and cranks are a bit, bit heavy, so under 8, easy.
Price (excluding pedals and cages) under 2k.
I have been riding a rim CAAD12 with 50mm tubular wheels and mechanic Ultegra for the last 4 years, comparing with that, the Velobuild is by far more comfortable, but far far far away.
It could the tubeless setup with 28c, the frame... But rides surprisingly smooth.
Handling is superb, fast and nimble, I´m not a profesional tester so... Not much to say... It´s a copy of an SL7, a great bike, so the behabiour is fantastic.
Rigidty... Well... I weight about 67kg, so not much peak power... I put some 800/900W peak sprints and all ok, no creaks, bikes acelerates fast.
In the end very happy, with the bike. I just hope it lasts!!!
Great looking build! What kind of saddle are you using?
Handlebar considerations – a hint
Along with the 168 frame I ordered a 100/400mm fully integrated handlebar. I also ordered the VB-HB-021 (2021 New Carbon Handlebar with Separate Stem) with a 110mm stem and a 400mm bar. With the VB-HB-021 option I intended to have a longer cockpit compared to the fully integrated one. However, it turned out that the VB-HB-021 option is shorter than the fully integrated one, although number wise the stem is longer.
sweet build ;) are you running the 3D-printed headset cover?
(https://i.imgur.com/hsAnxMeh.jpg)
yeah, will go with the oem version of the one pro handlebars as well. did you by chance weigh the spacers that came with it?
Man, this is a really good looking bike।
The top transition piece (between stem and spacers) is 3.8g. The top cap is 9.3g. The compression plus is 10.8g. The 5mm spacer is 3.6h and the 10mm spacer is 7.2g.
I am sure it will be lot of fun to ride! Instead of blue bar tape, how about pink accent bar tape matching your bottle cages?
thanks a lot for this hint/description!
I also went with the separatet Bar/stem Combo and now I am about to change it towards a HB010.
The separated one with 100mm stem technically fits perfectly but just doesn`t look good imho so I am now trying to figure out which size I shall pick for the HB010.
I have now repeatedly stumbled on your post and the explanation of dodgiepapa in Post #1090. It totally makes sense, that despite the 5mm more reach of the HB010 also the angle makes a difference, but I hardly cant imagine that this extends the total reach by such a significant amount as you`ve shown.
Did you doublecheck if VB really delivered the correct sizes for both systems by measuring the stem length or equivalent measure for the HB010 only?
If not it would be great if you could doublecheck it. I also recently ordered a 110 stem and got a 120mm instead^^
thanks again and kind regards
I ordered the HB010 with 400mm width. The maximum length shown on the HP is 100mm. Thus, I doubt that they delivered something longer than that. Also from measurements it seems to be a 100 stem.
Same problem, velobuild says it's my saddle's problem even though a few run the same XD
(https://i.imgur.com/wlzRGUV.png)
Has it been causing any issues?That would annoy me too.
Anybody have a seatpost that is slightly crooked? I got off the bike and thought my saddle was bent because it had a slight right rotation, but I tried a different saddle and got the same thing. Took off the saddle and it looks like the mounting base is actually crooked and rotated clockwise if looking down on it, making the saddle nose point right. I emailed "Chris" but curious if anybody else noticed a similar flaw.
That would annoy me too.
Did you try another saddle ?
If still crooked, send them again a picture.
Can you guys tell whether the seatpost or the mounting hardware is twisted?
...blablabla...
I will try to put some thin metal foil between seat post and frame (like some others already did to prevent slipping) in order to get a even gap on both sides in clamped condition and will report about the outcome.
...blablabla...
Finally found some minutes to elaborate on this topic!
in Short:
my saddle looked the same as for Siejak, - I was able to fix it by inserting three small sheets of a soda can metal foil at the right side between Seatpost and Frame. By doing so, the Saddle was perfectly aligned.
To those who are affected, - just loosen your seatpost clamp and try to rotate the saddle to the left and right. I was able to rotate it by approx. ± 5 degree. As soon as the clamping device is tensioned, the notch of the saddle rotates to the right and the gap between seatpost and frame looks like described in the prior post.
If someone is motivated to dig deeper: Maybe the root cause for the misalignment is not the huge clearance between seatpost and frame but the contact angle of clamping inlet to seatpost. (=clamping device forces the seatpost to rotate). If thats the case, modifying the clamping device would also solve the problem.
For the time being, i will continue with my fix since it simply worked.
The dust cap covers the shims perfectly, - they are invisible now and the saddle is perfectly aligned when clamped with 5-6Nm.
kind regards
I am having trouble with running the front derailleur cable to the housing in the frame, while the housing is attached to the frame I cant get the cable into it just seems impossible to try an fit the cable into the housing through the bottom bracket opening, if I remove the housing to seat the cable outer the housing will not go back into the frame, anyone else have this trouble and if so can you let me know how you did it :)
The can fix worked for me so far. Hoping it doesn’t cause a slip and drop the seat post. Guess that’s the price we pay buying open mold.
Not sure this will age well, since these are two different materials under a moving load.
I'm always astounded how tolerant many are with Velobuild quirks, and settle on workarounds.
Ready to race! Got the bars wrapped and brakes bled. Took it out for a shakedown ride and everything feels great. I think I'd be hard pressed to tell much of a difference between this and the SL7, apart from weight making the SL7 slightly more snappy. I went 1x because this will be a crit bike and I didn't feel like dealing with routing another cable and a front mech. If I upgrade to electronic in the future I'd probably throw on a front mech but this was a budget build so I'm happy with the mech group I had laying around. Considering buying some decals for the wheels. I don;t like the new Zipp logo, think I'd go with the old logo in white. I love the look of white logos on wheels.
168 Frameset, size 58
Zipp 404 Firecrest wheels, Challenge Criterium RS tires 27mm, Muc Off valve stems, 160/140 discs
Shimano 105 mech grupo, 50t AbsoluteBlack chainring, 11-30t cassette
Kocevlo 1 piece bar/stem, 40cm/120mm, LizardSkins tape, Supacaz bar ends and stem cap
West Biking 3D printed saddle
ZTTO bottle cages
Look Pedals
Rapilock thru axles
Garmin 530, Garmin Varia
GoPro 8 on a custom 3D printed mount
(https://i.imgur.com/87zxUDgh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/JE1EUlah.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/S7JspFWh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/cbyzkCoh.jpg)
Handlebars: https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256804787569282.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.17.79411802DclcYZ&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa&_randl_shipto=US (https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256804787569282.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.17.79411802DclcYZ&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa&_randl_shipto=US)
Saddle: https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256804999444467.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.10.79411802DclcYZ&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa&_randl_shipto=US (https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256804999444467.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.10.79411802DclcYZ&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa&_randl_shipto=US)
Bottle cages: https://www.aliexpress.us/item/2255800808341640.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.184.4ba218023whaeR&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa&_randl_shipto=US (https://www.aliexpress.us/item/2255800808341640.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.184.4ba218023whaeR&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa&_randl_shipto=US)
Just starting my 168 build with Di2 - am I supposed to route the front derailleur wire through the cable stop, or through the hole that comes with a rubber cap in it directly below the derailleur mount? If it isn't for Di2, what is that hole for?
From The Un-Official Guide To Fixing Headset Play thread
3. The top headset bearing is recessed too far into the head tube cup, causing the headset cover to rub on the frame, preventing the complete headset stack to properly compress. If this is the case you will need a thicker headset bearing (7mm, 7.5mm or 8mm thick) or a thicker c-ring so that it sits flush with the top of the headset opening on the frame, thus preventing the headset cover from rubbing the frame. EDIT: Another resolution is adding some micro spacers between the c-ring and top cap.
Which C ring is used here to avoid the rubbing ?
Someone had a link to the nline merchant ?
Thanks
Despite of all the reported problems, I did a dry run on the headset today.
The good thing is that the new version of the headset is delivered with split spcers and that it should eliminate any play without adding micro spacers.
On the downside, the compressing ring with the dustcover builds up that high that there is a gap of 2mm between the frame and the dustcover. Thereby, the dustcover has no rubber sealing. So there is no protection for the bearing, which btw is of poor quality as well - the sealing is not worth its name, one can see the balls.
I menwhile deeply regret the purchase of the frame.
I have had some increasing issues with my headset recently. Lots of creaking no matter what I did.
After inspection is was clear that the C-ring was the culprit (as others have discovered). It just doesn't have enough wrap-around angle. You can see on the picture how much pressure is on the edges of the c-ring, causing rubbing and creaking.
I know Velobuild have made an updated version that might be better, but i wanted a significantly better version. My idea was to use the c-ring from the Specialized SL7 (the replacement after recall). It seems like a good design that wraps all the way around (95%) but doesnt need the hydraulic lines to be broken. The main problem is that it is made for a Ø40.5mm inner dimension bearing. Its also too thin to be a direct replacement.
Sourcing the SL7 c-ring (ID: s212500016) was a bit of a pain. Specialized was slow to send it to my local dealer (3 weeks). On top of that the price was high (35$ + shipping) and the customer service was terrible. The holy trifecta of a shit deal - but it worked out in the end.
I work in engineering so I called in favor to get the c-ring lathed down to Ø40 (a little tricky with an open ring) and I got a small spacer made for purpose. Spacer measurements are Ø30.9 x Ø28.9 x 2mm (stainless steel). Fits just as intended with the one piece handlebar. I have gone for a couple of rides now and I cant get a single creak out of the headset no mater how much I pull and twist on the bars.
Dear Velobuild - Please spend the extra $10-15 dollars on a proper c-ring design like this one. It is sooo much better.
Original C-ring. Waaay to open.
(https://i.imgur.com/E8TM4KXl.jpg)
You can see that so much of the load is going through the edge of the ring.
(https://i.imgur.com/fd17S04l.jpg)
Lathed c-ring from SL7 + spacer
(https://i.imgur.com/AShDd8Hl.jpg)
Spacer needs to be very small to not squeze the cables.
(https://i.imgur.com/w0IgCeDl.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/QX3c5DJl.jpg)
Gap between frame and cover is pretty good. You can shave of a couple of 0.1mm if you want it tight.
(https://i.imgur.com/WnotRnVl.jpg)
Nice !
Did you just pass the brake cable only ??
Also could you post the link for the spacer you used ?
Thanks
Hi,@renrew did you use those spacers ? Does it revolve the space problem
you can order this from Aliexpress. I have now put 2mm in between. There is a lot, so you have a crack. Probably 1.5 mm is enough.
https://de.aliexpress.com/item/33056428213.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.3f864c4d5ooMFw
I have had some increasing issues with my headset recently. Lots of creaking no matter what I did.
After inspection is was clear that the C-ring was the culprit (as others have discovered). It just doesn't have enough wrap-around angle. You can see on the picture how much pressure is on the edges of the c-ring, causing rubbing and creaking.
I know Velobuild have made an updated version that might be better, but i wanted a significantly better version. My idea was to use the c-ring from the Specialized SL7 (the replacement after recall). It seems like a good design that wraps all the way around (95%) but doesnt need the hydraulic lines to be broken. The main problem is that it is made for a Ø40.5mm inner dimension bearing. Its also too thin to be a direct replacement.
Sourcing the SL7 c-ring (ID: s212500016) was a bit of a pain. Specialized was slow to send it to my local dealer (3 weeks). On top of that the price was high (35$ + shipping) and the customer service was terrible. The holy trifecta of a shit deal - but it worked out in the end.
I work in engineering so I called in favor to get the c-ring lathed down to Ø40 (a little tricky with an open ring) and I got a small spacer made for purpose. Spacer measurements are Ø30.9 x Ø28.9 x 2mm (stainless steel). Fits just as intended with the one piece handlebar. I have gone for a couple of rides now and I cant get a single creak out of the headset no mater how much I pull and twist on the bars.
Dear Velobuild - Please spend the extra $10-15 dollars on a proper c-ring design like this one. It is sooo much better.
I am about to buy this frame but the spacers and c ring problem with the headset people have like Zdrenka89 and berndson is a bummer. Seems like a hit or miss with this frame.
I am wondering if the vbr 177 had less problem ??
The C Ring is way too stiff since its just massive. Due to that, the headset needs to be compressed with a lot higher force than its made for in order to cause the elastic deformation of the C clip which is needed to close the gap between inner bearing ring and fork tube (which is what it is all about in order to avoid headset play).
I guess this is why many people complain about headset play even though they tightened everything. Also the stated problems with de-formed top caps might be a result of the high compression forces.
Just another photo...
2 months revie: no issues 8)
Chain supposed to be on the big ring for a photo ;)
Still thinking about ordering this one as well, but the crappy C-ring is holding me back.
In the same boat here. The C ring hold me to buy this frame !
Wondering if VB change the c ring in the recent frame sold
If the C ring is the only thing holding you back, there are a few easy fixes to solve it. I bypassed it all together with a different compression ring that came with my handlebars (The One Pro). The Tarmac SL7 ring is another option at like $30USD. Granted, I get that it’s super annoying to have to immediately replace a stock part to get the bike rolling, but that’s what I expect when you’re paying $700. I also immediately replaced the rear derailleur hanger because I think the stock one is unsafe but that’s just me.
If the C ring is the only thing holding you back, there are a few easy fixes to solve it. I bypassed it all together with a different compression ring that came with my handlebars (The One Pro). The Tarmac SL7 ring is another option at like $30USD. Granted, I get that it’s super annoying to have to immediately replace a stock part to get the bike rolling, but that’s what I expect when you’re paying $700. I also immediately replaced the rear derailleur hanger because I think the stock one is unsafe but that’s just me.
Wondering about the rim brake direct mount version of this frame, any feedback on it?
That would be the VBR-218 there's a thread about it with people on the rb direct mount version!
That would be the VBR-218 there's a thread about it with people on the rb direct mount version!
you found an aftermarket RD hanger that fits??
Yea, sort of. It's the Cube hanger. There are 2 ways to do it. The first link has 2 different hangers and you could use either with some mods. The 906 inner piece fits the frame, but the hole is too small. The 784 outer piece is the correct piece you need, and the hole is the right size, but the "neck?" is too wide and doesn't fit. So I actually bought both and modded them. So you either drill the hole slightly bigger on the 906 to fit the outer piece. Or you can trim the 784 a bit to get it to fit. I did both but ended up sticking with the 906.
The 2nd link is for a different outer piece with a 1.5 thread pitch to match the stock thru axle. So if I did it again, I'd buy the 906 from the first link and the outer piece from the 2nd link, then drill out the 906. It's a very small amount and took like 2 minutes.
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256802098295629.html?spm=a2g0o.detail.1000060.3.5fe172b1PHWtWm&gps-id=pcDetailBottomMoreThisSeller&scm=1007.13339.291025.0&scm_id=1007.13339.291025.0&scm-url=1007.13339.291025.0&pvid=47710f94-708c-4dab-9512-c81083bd549b&_t=gps-id%3ApcDetailBottomMoreThisSeller%2Cscm-url%3A1007.13339.291025.0%2Cpvid%3A47710f94-708c-4dab-9512-c81083bd549b%2Ctpp_buckets%3A668%232846%238109%231935&pdp_npi=3%40dis%21USD%2114.61%217.3%21%21%21%21%21%402103251316846751104572746e8fd2%2112000019912693538%21rec%21US%211815174450&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256801555028997.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.33.3d7018025WYVvj&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa
I'm about to order the parts as you describe, by inner piece you mean the hanger right and by outer piece you mean the nut?
So inner piece or hanger from the first link and the complete set including the nut from the second link with the 1.5 threading, is that correct?
The hanger is two pieces, which I describe as inner and outer. The inner piece is always the actual “hanger” piece that connects to the derailleur. The inner and outer pieces sandwich the frame if that makes sense. The stock derailleur hanger set has the threads on the inner piece with the actual hanger part. The stock outer piece is just a piece of metal that is secured to the frame with a tiny bolt. I didn’t like that because if that tiny little bolt fails (and I’ve had it happen) then the outer piece falls off, which means the frame dropout isn’t secure. The thru axle will keep the wheel in place secured to the hanger, the frame won’t have any attachment points. So the frame is really only secured with the tiny bolt.
With the Cube hanger set, the threads are moved to the outer piece. So now you get the inner piece with the hanger, then the frame, then the outer piece with the threads. So now the thru axle connects to the outer piece and secures everything. Much more secure.
So what I bought is the inner piece (hanger with no threads) and a separate outer piece (with threads) and combined them to get the set.
Hope that makes sense.
Thanks eddy that helps.
To sum up you picked the following:
Color: YA00082P1 from this link:
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/1005002284610381.html?spm=a2g0o.detail.1000060.3.5fe172b1PHWtWm&gps-id=pcDetailBottomMoreThisSeller&scm=1007.13339.291025.0&scm_id=1007.13339.291025.0&scm-url=1007.13339.291025.0&pvid=47710f94-708c-4dab-9512-c81083bd549b&_t=gps-id%3ApcDetailBottomMoreThisSeller%2Cscm-url%3A1007.13339.291025.0%2Cpvid%3A47710f94-708c-4dab-9512-c81083bd549b%2Ctpp_buckets%3A668%232846%238109%231935&pdp_npi=3%40dis%21USD%2114.61%217.3%21%21%21%21%21%402103251316846751104572746e8fd2%2112000019912693538%21rec%21US%211815174450&gatewayAdapt=4itemAdapt
and Color: Large Nut-1.5pitch from this link:
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/1005001741343749.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.33.3d7018025WYVvj&gatewayAdapt=4itemAdapt
and then you made the hole wider on the innerpiece/actual hanger/Color: YA00082P1 , correct?
Just gave me VB 168 a good cleaning and inspection
Have about 1200 miles on it, with a lot of talk about split bearing cap and steerer I pulled apart and had a look, I see a broken steerer as a catastrophic failure !!
Besides having issues with getting proper compression on bearings and plug slipping up when trying to preload the bearings
When I took it apart the outside of the tube looked good, no cuts or grooves, the inside on the other hand had a lot of delaminating carbon
Should I be concerned ?
How do you mount the Di2 battery in the seat post?
After about a year with the Sensah Empire Pro 12s and an 11/34 cassette I’m just done with the subpar shifting and splurged :o
Just gave me VB 168 a good cleaning and inspection
Have about 1200 miles on it, with a lot of talk about split bearing cap and steerer I pulled apart and had a look, I see a broken steerer as a catastrophic failure !!
Besides having issues with getting proper compression on bearings and plug slipping up when trying to preload the bearings
When I took it apart the outside of the tube looked good, no cuts or grooves, the inside on the other hand had a lot of delaminating carbon
Should I be concerned ?
New groupset (Ultegra 11sp Di2). Went back to the LightBicycle AR45s with Challenge Criterium RS tires. Still need to bleed the brakes and weight it.
New groupset (Ultegra 11sp Di2). Went back to the LightBicycle AR45s with Challenge Criterium RS tires. Still need to bleed the brakes and weight it.
(https://i.imgur.com/Nlv9qNRh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/tlsfGZNh.jpg)
Which cockpit/handlebar is that? The stem seems longer than 120mm? I'm interested because options like these are rare.
Looks good! Really interested in your torough opinion on how the VB fares against your SL7. I am a bit hestinant as i want to build up a budget bike with a new 12spd Di2, but i sometimes hear that the 168 feels "sluggish"(?) conpared to an genuine Specialized.
You think it would be wasting to slap a new Ultegra Di2 onto such a "cheap" frame?
Which cockpit/handlebar is that? The stem seems longer than 120mm? I'm interested because options like these are rare.
Thanks guys for all that gold informations here on the forum. After reading a lot of pages in this thread I ordered myself a 168. Communication with Chris was near perfect (sometimes answers took quite long). I ordered the frame without any stem or handlebar since I want to go with a own combo. Therefore I got a discount of 69$ and got the two color painting for „free“.
As Colors I chose Pantone 7471C and 232C fading from front to back and a nice stencil on the steerer. Yesterday I got the pictures of the finished painting and had a shock at first. Because the color which should have been turquoise was more greenish. Chris said color was correct also…I asked to get a picture in daylight (until now I did not get one). After a while I thought maybe their white balance in camera is totally off so I tuned the whitebalance and it seems they got the color correct.
Did you guys had some similar experiences?
I had a similar experience. I sent over the colors I wanted but the pictures they sent, everything looked super dark. The pink I wanted looked purple in their pictures and I was worried. But in the sun, it's looks just like I imagined. So maybe wait and see what it looks like in person.
New groupset (Ultegra 11sp Di2). Went back to the LightBicycle AR45s with Challenge Criterium RS tires.Still need to bleed the brakes and weight it.7.82kg as shown.
(https://i.imgur.com/Nlv9qNRh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/tlsfGZNh.jpg)
It's heavier by around 500-600g, but other than that I don't think I could tell the difference. It's been my race bike all season and I love it. The Tarmac is my normal everyday riding bike mainly for the setup/position. I just upgraded it to 12sp Di2 which is why the 11sp went on the 168. Basically, I went weight weenie and comfort for the SL7, while this bike is my "cheap" race bike. I wouldn't describe it as sluggish at all. For reference my FTP is around 330W with a sprint around 1,600W. It doesn't hold me back.
Thanks for the insights! Also great to hear you have some racing background to back up your opinion.
How would you rate the aero-ness of the 168 compared to the SL7?
I offen hear that Specialized nailed the aerodynamics in the SL7.
As the 168 is identical in geometry and very very similar in appearance (although not the same, as the genuine seatpost does not fit), I hope to get the same aerodynamics.
But its very hard to judge the tube shapes from pictures. Especially the tube widths (e.g. downtube width from the front perspective).
Could you notice any difference in tube shapes and the aero profiles?
Thanks a lot, Eddy! ;)
Hey guys,
I ordered my frameset and its in the process of painting, in candy blue.
But I still have some questions while planning my build.
Did your frameset come with grommets for the exit ports of the brake hose? Meaning the holes in the chainstay and fork to prevent rubbung of the brake hose on the carbon.
Or did you buy Specialized grommets? Or use none at all?
Secondly: Does the frame come with di2 cable grommets? Or which ones did you source yourself?
How did the Di2-Users mount the battery? I read about just stuffing it in with bubblewrap, but is that safe?
Has anyone tried the SL7 Battery mounting grommets (S199900003)
Thanks for your input! Really looking forward to build up mine soon!
Greetings from Germany
Hey Joe!
My frame came with a soft rubber grommet for the rear derailleur exit, a hard plastic (removable) housing for the rear brake, and a metal housing for the front derailleur. Nothing was needed for the front brake exit on the fork with how the cable exists the fork leg.
It didn't come with anything for Di2 cables so I'd also be interested to hear what people have done here.
For the SL7 grommets, the seat posts on the Sl7 and 168 are different shapes so I'm not sure if this would work, although I've got no direct experience with this so someone else may advise otherwise :)
Good luck with the build, they're great bikes for the money!
Hey guys,
I ordered my frameset and its in the process of painting, in candy blue.
But I still have some questions while planning my build.
Did your frameset come with grommets for the exit ports of the brake hose? Meaning the holes in the chainstay and fork to prevent rubbung of the brake hose on the carbon.
Or did you buy Specialized grommets? Or use none at all?
Secondly: Does the frame come with di2 cable grommets? Or which ones did you source yourself?
How did the Di2-Users mount the battery? I read about just stuffing it in with bubblewrap, but is that safe?
Has anyone tried the SL7 Battery mounting grommets (S199900003)
Thanks for your input! Really looking forward to build up mine soon!
Greetings from Germany
For all of you please remember to unscrew the mounts where the Thru-Axles are mounted and screw them back in with threadlocker.
On my second ride, the rear bracket fell out at 45 km / h because the screw has loosened. The back wheel began to vibrate as hell but i was able to recover the bike without a crash.
Hi guys,
I'd like to know if someone is using a saddle with full carbon rails: in this case what kind of seatpost clamp are you using?
The standard one with the VB-R-168 seatpost is not designed to be used with full carbon rails.
Thanks, Luca
Anyone know where you can get a zero offset seat post for the VB-168?
I have a couple of road races coming up with significant amounts of gravel sections, so I have been trying to maximize the tire space in the frame. The split for one race is around 15% tame gravel/85% asphalt and 45% tame gravel / 55% asphalt for the other.
I have been looking for high volume road tyres with lower rolling resistance compared to gravel tires.
I currently have Vittoria Terreno Zero's in 32c and they are very puncture resistant but noticeably slower than a road tire (as it probably should be). Very good if there is a high risk of punctures or a need for more grip.
Schwalbe have a 34c model of their Pro One Evo TLE which I picked up. I mounted them on Light Bicycle WR45's which are 25mm internal (hooked). They measure 33,5mm.
Surprisingly there is still a bit of space. Obviously they are narrower than advertised but it probably also has to do with the lack of knobs and that the wide rim gives the tire a lower profile.
I would say if you have wide rims the bike could probably handle a 35mm WAM slick tire if you can live with minimal mud clearance. Anyone wanna sponser me some Rene Herse Bon Jon Pass ;D ?
(https://i.imgur.com/LUewidQ.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/WiJCmBA.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/SQofeJI.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/55naCiY.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/T1wnHLm.jpg?1)
Hey guys, I finished my build last week. Wanted to share my experience with you and say thanks for all the insights!
I went with a 168 frameset, custom painted in size 54. The ordering process was fine, Chris was responsive and answered all/most of my questions. Settling on the color for the paintjob was not straightforward however, as I wanted a special color for which I had a pantone code (metallic color as per pantone code). He always said that they can do the color, but “not metallic” which was quite confusing since the color code was referring to a metallic color.
So after a bit of back and forth, we decided to try a candy-blue paintjob (transparent blue over metallic silver base). After a week, he sent pictures of the painted frame and said that they will paint another one as it wasn’t metallic enough (without even asking me if I was happy with the paintjob). So another week later, I had two “versions” of the paintjob to choose from, and I chose the second one.
The paintjob turned out way better than expected, they did a really good job!
I received the frame via DHL to my door (Germany), with XDB shipping and no additional duties within 10 days after it got shipped.
Frame quality was good. The inside of the fork had a few loose glassfiber-bits inside, maybe the reaming wasn’t perfectly done. I removed most of them, but the steerer tube was a bit to tight for the Deda 70 compression plug, so I sanded down the lower part of the compression plug a tiny bit.
As for the compression ring, I went with the SL8 one that I got from Specialized for 5€. As the SL8 uses a Headset Bearing with an ID that is 0.5mm larger than the VB, I had to modify the compression ring by sanding (no issue since its made from plastic).
To ensure enough clearance between the frame and the lowest headset spacer, I had to use 5 FSA microspacers that I cut to allow for internal cable routing. I also bent the lowest microspacer to prevent the sharp edges of the cut spacers from damaging the brake hoses. (as seen in the pictures)
Headset is free of any play.
I used the separate bar/stem combo, but 3D-printed a topcap that allows to run spacers above the stem to validate the position before cutting the steerer (too) short.
Routing the brake hoses (no shifter cables, as I run semi-wireless Di2) trough the bars was tough and required some sanding to remove the sharp edges on the exit holes in the handlebar. (I have tons of respect to you guys who manage to route 4 cables trough those handlebars, lol. Seems impossible from my perspective)
Building the bike was straightforward. BB was properly sized (a tiny bit undersized, but the Token Ninja BB pressed/threaded in fine).
As for the seatpost, I originally planned to replace the aluminium hardware with carbon parts from an old Elita One seatpost. However, they did not fit (and were only marginally lighter anyways). Has anyone found good replacement hardware to shave a few grams of that seatpost?
However, I had no issue with a slipping seatpost (used carbon paste) so far.
Regarding the weights:
• Frame (without any hardware, Size 54, painted in “candy blue”): 1025g (photo shows frame with hardware and axle)
• FD Hanger with screws: 15g
• RD Hanger with screws: 17g
• Uncut Fork incl. separate crown race: 428g (cut to about 402g, with a few cm left to be cut)
• Stem 100mm (without Topcap): 193g
• Handlebar 400mm: 270 g (quite a bit heavier than expected)
• Headset spacers (all, without c-ring):77g
• SL8 C-Ring: 5g
• Seatpost: 240g
• Seatpost grommet: 2,4g
• Seatpost wedge: 24g
• Front Axle: 37g
• Rear Axle: 45g
• Headset bearings: 62g
The whole build with complete Ultegra Di2 R8100 came out at 7,78 kg without pedals or 8,19kg with Pedals, Bottle cages, computer mount.
Once I dialed in my fit (coming from an endurance frame that was already slammed, I will slowly lower my position), I will probably shave a few hundred gramms by switching to a lighter cockpit, saddle… Also thinking about a lighter wheelset (currently at 1635g for the pair).
Complete price was also quite competitive I guess, as I paid less than 2800 euros for the whole setup with frameset, groupset, wheels, tires, small bits etc (without pedals & cages), including shipping and taxes. (all bought new, so no second hand prices).
Bike rides really well without any issues, but I have to get some more kilometers in! Definitely happy with my build so far!
nice built, and nice color. do you have a link for the sl8 compression ring?
Hey guys, after I have read through the whole thread, I would like to thank you for sharing your knowledge and experience!
I'm lurking around the velobuild 168 since a while. I own a Specialized SL6 in 58 with rim brakes. I'm very happy with the fit and character of the bike. But I don't ride so much anymore to justify another S-Works (and prices gone crazy). Only problem with the 168 for me is the lack of a zero offset seatpost. A build will need a spacer or two (not getting younger anymore...). Does anyone have experiences or guidance how much spacers will be needed to compensate 20mm offset?
Are there other frames in the category of the 168 that are more or less comparable to SL7/8 or Supersix with a (working) tire clearance of 32?
First broken one?
A question about sizes on the 168. On my current specialized Tarmac Elite (circa 2007) I am a solid 56. The chart for the SL 7 has my as a 58 (i am 182 placing me squarely at the low end of the 58 size). Does that compute with folks here? Your thoughts appreciated.
You mean putting threadlocker on the tiny little screw that's off center the thru axle? if so, it is a must indeed. There have been reports of people losing that screw.
When i see a thread, i usually wonder: lithium or loctite? I like my girls wet and my threads lubricated.
Glad you didnt die!
I was now finally able to assemble my bike.
For all of you please remember to unscrew the mounts where the Thru-Axles are mounted and screw them back in with threadlocker.
On my second ride, the rear bracket fell out at 45 km / h because the screw has loosened. The back wheel began to vibrate as hell but i was able to recover the bike without a crash.
This is why I bought a new derailleur hanger that had the main thru-axle threads on the outer piece. The thru-axle itself then tightens down the whole back end. The tiny little screw then doesn’t offer any structural support.
Hi guys, thank you for all your advice, here is finally my bike mounted.@dalon May I ask about your decals? they are beutiful. i am thinking of making my own "brand" for my upcoming 168 build. where did you buy it? Thanks.
Very happy final weight:7 kg pedals.
Two exits the first two hours per setup, the second over 4 hours and a drop 1600 meters, excellent sensations.
And it fit the frame ok? Mind sharing which hanger that was? Thanks!
Hi there ,Beautiful build and paint scheme. Congrats. Small question , what is happening with the seatpost dustcover? Seems to overhang to the back? Not being picky, just trying to figure out what to expect on my own build. Thanks.
finished my build already some time ago and now found the time to wrap it up in a Summary after approx. 4000k and 60000m of elevation gain on my vbr-168.
Beautiful build and paint scheme. Congrats. Small question , what is happening with the seatpost dustcover? Seems to overhang to the back? Not being picky, just trying to figure out what to expect on my own build. Thanks.
Beautiful build and paint scheme. Congrats. Small question , what is happening with the seatpost dustcover? Seems to overhang to the back? Not being picky, just trying to figure out what to expect on my own build. Thanks.
Hey folks.
Would like to hear more about internal cable routing. I am going full mechanical with my build. Would love to hear about how to deal with internally routed cable housing on derailleurs and rear break. For instance on the rear derailleur does the housing go through frame all the way back to the point the inner cable exits the frame? Is there a ferrule needed at the tip of the housing cable, before it exits the frame? The same question goes for the front derailleur, does the cable housing routes through frame from shifter all the way through the frame to the point it exits the frame?
This may be a topic that has been discussed before , a link to a previous post is also appreciated.
Thanks again community.
Hi Guys, just finished my SRAM Force AXS Etap build. Unfortunately, my right crankarm is hitting the front derailleur slightly. Did anyone else have that problem before? If so, how do I fix it? I'm using the SRAM Dub Pressfit BB. Thanks for any help!perhaps a spacer on the drive side?
Hi Guys, just finished my SRAM Force AXS Etap build. Unfortunately, my right crankarm is hitting the front derailleur slightly. Did anyone else have that problem before? If so, how do I fix it? I'm using the SRAM Dub Pressfit BB. Thanks for any help!Mine is also super close with a rotor crank.
Hello everyone, I finished my VB-R-168 a few days ago. I've been testing it and I have a little problem with the disc brakes, which are Force AXS. When pedaling standing up and tilting the bicycle, the pads rub slightly. I would like to know if they have happened to them.
I have also changed the derailleur hanger and put this one on it: https://es.aliexpress.com/item/1005001741343749.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.35.7768194dtsW8Rn&gatewayAdapt=glo2esp.
Hey, great build, looks very clean! 8)
Regarding brake rub: try to align the calipers as centered as possible. Its not that uncommon to get brake rub when out of the saddle.
Which Seatpost hardware did you use? I see you have carbon seat mounting parts, but i cant seem to find fitting ones.
And what searpost gasket are you using? Looks neater than the original Velobuild gasket. Its the original from the SL7?
Hi,
I ordered my VBR 168 two days ago. It will be my second build, the first with disc brakes.
I am collecting everything I need, actually. I got a good black friday offer for a Sram Force eTap and now I am looking for the bottom bracket.
On the Velobuild homepage they write BB86. Is that Pressfit? Which bottom bracket did you use when doing a build with a Sram DUB crankset?
Tina
Hello everyone, I finished my VB-R-168 a few days ago. I've been testing it and I have a little problem with the disc brakes, which are Force AXS. When pedaling standing up and tilting the bicycle, the pads rub slightly. I would like to know if they have happened to them.Nice bike, no ffedback on the rubbing disc, but can suggest to make sure the spokes are tight to the correct tension. some wheel flex is expected when you sprint, but should not be too much to cause rubbing.
I have also changed the derailleur hanger and put this one on it: https://es.aliexpress.com/item/1005001741343749.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.35.7768194dtsW8Rn&gatewayAdapt=glo2esp.
Hello everyone, I finished my VB-R-168 a few days ago. I've been testing it and I have a little problem with the disc brakes, which are Force AXS. When pedaling standing up and tilting the bicycle, the pads rub slightly. I would like to know if they have happened to them.
I have also changed the derailleur hanger and put this one on it: https://es.aliexpress.com/item/1005001741343749.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.35.7768194dtsW8Rn&gatewayAdapt=glo2esp (https://es.aliexpress.com/item/1005001741343749.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.35.7768194dtsW8Rn&gatewayAdapt=glo2esp).
Nice bike, no ffedback on the rubbing disc, but can suggest to make sure the spokes are tight to the correct tension. some wheel flex is expected when you sprint, but should not be too much to cause rubbing.
By the way, can you share the specs on your wheels? they look grand!
Clean build! what made you go with this RD hanger instead of the stock one?
Hey curious what sizes people went with for this frame. I'm 5'8" (172.7cm) and trying to pick between a 52-S or a 54-M. Currently I ride a Canyon Endurace in small but those Canyon sizes are odd & don't really equate to other brands. Any thoughts?
@TCal
I've just sent you a PM on my instal method :)
For the filing, you need to file the inside of the cable stop where the outer enters the stop, I needed to 'open' the hole up on the cable stop so the angle to cable entered wasn't so tight.
Wow. Thanks Serge for posting. . I am using similar break calipers (hydro piston with mechanical cable actuation) , I like them. So far they are dependable and easy to adjust. What’s your take on them?