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Mechanical pull disc brakes list - 140/160mm - road bikes
Cable operated hydraulic: Juin tech - R1 (post mount) - two calipers, 160mm disc = $130 - two piston - made in Taiwan - forged/CNC AL - 160mm only (?) - 154g/ea Juin tech - F1 (flat mount) Juin tech - M1 (side mtn mount) PRO A8000 - two calipers, 140mm disc, pads = $55 - two piston ("double sided synchronous drive") - CNC machine AL, one Ti screw - heatsink style brake pads - floating disk rotors - 140mm only (rear 70mm front 35mm spacing) some reviewers complain because they thought it would work on 160mm.. - 140g/ea ZTTO (same as the PRO A8000, just different pads) - two calipers, 140mm disc, pads = $51 - 270g/both ZRACE BR-002 (same as above again) XOOM XTECH HB100 - two calipers, 120/140/160mm disc = $50 - two piston - no brake pad included (?) - 190g/ea Reviews here: https://singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/any-experiences-with-the-zoom-xtech-hb-100-brakes-too-cheap/ (positive) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aIEzwkr80fA (negative) https://forums.mtbr.com/components/hydro-caliper-cable-actuated-advise-1090865.html (negative, leaks oil after a month or so) Giant Conduct system - requires special stem - hard to find, not sure if its still sold Cable only: Avid BB7 - two calipers, 160mm disc, pads = $55 - single piston (?) - easy adjustment mechanism - 210g/ea TEKTRO MD-C550 - two calipers, pads ~$100 - two piston - 140/160mm capable - 170g/ea TRP SPYRE FM - $170 Two piston seems common, anything one piston or pure mechanical seems not worth it. Four piston is available (Juin GT-F) but incredibly expensive. So far I'm happy with ZTTO gear: - SPD pedals last a year already (they use bushings not ball bearings, so not so surprising) - BBs work well - Cassettes have some flaws apparently But reliability here is more important, if piston leaks, brakes can fail to operate. August 07, 2020, 03:16:04 PM |
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Re: Full Alibaba Bike - recommendations?
I recently joined the forum and interested in getting a complete bike too (would be my first road bike) but I am skeptical about the price of the bikes you linked. I mean, for starters how would you know if the groupset is an authentic Shimano 105? Seems a little too good to be true. In general, where do the suppliers usually skimp on the quality to meet the price point? These are the claimed 105 components: Derailleur Handle SHIMANO 105/R7000-22S Front Derailleur SHIMANO 105/R7000 Rear Derailleur SHIMANO 105/R7000 The rest are not 105 and likely inferior (crankset, chain, etc.). You can click on the seller reviews and see some comments from purchasers, although they are not terribly detailed. Personally I do not buy a complete bike, because I want to fit specific components to it, most of which would not match what this vendor is using. I have not seen fake Shimano 105 shifters, but maybe someone else can comment if they have. August 12, 2020, 09:11:30 PM |
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Re: Stone or Pass Quest Chainrings - AliExpress
Faint creaking doesn't seem like a chainring issue, unless its the bolts itself. Never had that problem. Can you post a photo of the actual teeth? You can tell from the profile if its worn. I just bought a Pass Quest oval 42T but it won't get here for a while. Have two Deckas narrow-wides 48T and 52T, one has 2,500km and not really significantly worn (first photo below), should easily get to 5-10k km. If we are talking about high end rings, also used Praxis with well over 7,000km on it. You can see the teeth profile its curved on one side, so starting to wear out. Those are normal thin teeth as well, narrow-wide should actually last longer with the extra metal in that area. Sorry I can't offer specific experience but I've been very happy with my Chinese chainrings in the sub $10 range. The paint on the teeth wears off after about 4 miles but other than that they seem to just plug along. I had one at about 800 miles before I lost a couple bolts and seriously warped it, but I can't imagine any ring would survive that. Yep, the anodizing maybe isn't as good, or is more obvious that its worn, but other than that they are good. $10 is super cheap. September 08, 2020, 11:44:57 AM |
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Re: Stone or Pass Quest Chainrings - AliExpress
Interesting, the wear on the sides of the teeth seems significant. The wear on the front of the tooth can definitely be seen but does not seem extreme (~1mm?). I wonder if this is related to chainline, my chain tends to stay fairly straight, but if I had it in the top or lowest gear a lot maybe it would wear more like that? Or if its just an issue with narrow-wide in general. One advantage of the 0mm offset is you could flip the chainring around, and that might extend the life (in some cases the chainring bolts are countersunk slightly so watch out). September 08, 2020, 04:36:50 PM |
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Re: Mountain bike idiot wants to build a cyclocross bike
I'm a bit taller and 58cm frame is large for me. But that seems to be what osto recommends so if you just copy their geometry it should be good. Waltly seems to be busy right now, so contact them as soon as you've decided to get a deposit in. Shipping price quoted was a lot higher than in the past ($150-300). 21mm inner 28mm outer is fine if you run 38 tires and never plan to go bigger, but I would consider 25/32mm. Its a tradeoff of aero vs weight. December 23, 2020, 02:35:26 PM |
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Flyxii FR-603 relaxed 650b commuter
Frame: Flyxii FR-603 An older model, still using QR. Frame was received with some really bad bearing seats and PF30 far out of tolerance (see post here). Since I use a threaded in the middle ZTTO bottom bracket, the out of tolerance PF30 ends up not being an issue. This frame should have never passed QC, probably some reject they sold at a discount? Forks: Norco threshold - Thru-axle 12x100, good tire clearance, seems solid. Bought second hand, new forks are crazy expensive. Also will never use a fork with holes drilled through it again (internal route), not worth risk. Pedals: - issi flash red color Cranks: - Fovno direct mount - these things are beautifully made but I feel they could fall apart if abused. In another thread on here someones aluminum axle stripped out. I wish there were other alternatives with similar colors, closest I saw that I liked was the Blackspire, which is well priced. But they never responded to my emails, and I don't need the included BB or chainring. - ZTTO 24mm PF30 BB30SH - Pass Quest 42T direct mount narrow-wide oval chainring - seems good so far Wheels: - DT 350 12x100mm hub front - ZTTO hub QR rear, 28 hole 54t ratchet, with road cassette, good so far - Pillar Aero1423 bladed spoke - Pillar DSN red Al nipple - Spank Flare 24 OC Vibrocore rim - 650b - 405g Tire: Gravelking SK 650b 48mm - Other than some initial sidewall weeping, they are great. Minimal road noise considering the knobs. - The tire is probably too big for this frame. After measuring today its about 52mm! no wonder. I'm not sure if this is due to the rim or expected for these tires. I've never heard of something being this far off spec. Brakes: - Juin Tech R1 mechanical disc brakes - KEB-SL compressionless housing - recommended to use this for mechanical brakes, response is much better than normal housing. Fender: - SKS bluemel 53mm wide Misc: - old Alu handlebars - secondhand Ti seatpost, 3x18650 battery cells inside - secondhand Sram X1 rear derailleur - old SRAM Rival shifters from previous bike, crazy number of km's on these and still smooth - Vincita frame bag - internal routed wiring + LED lights (front, seatpost, and bar ends) March 31, 2021, 01:07:03 AM |
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Re: Waltly Ti gravel - dropped seatstay and fat tubes - in progress
Nice looking frame! What are the build details? No build details really, but I want to try the DIY berd/carbon rim mentioned in another thread. Keeping an eye out for the rope. If you want etching, get the files ready before they ask is about all you can do now I guess. Power supply I used was bench supply (DP832, 3A 32V+32V = 64V max). The power supply you linked looks like a good choice, and you'll be able to slowly ramp up and see the color change. Just be careful when at really high voltages, eg wearing thick rubber gloves. Attached is the deep purple/ink color, I believe it was around 24V. You can see the polished smooth bits look great, but the seatpost that is all scratched up does not look as good. I might try polishing but I suspect its a huge amount of work. March 31, 2021, 02:53:25 PM |
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Re: ZTTO MTB M1 Boost hubs 28H 54T Ratchet
Personally, if I were to build future wheel sets with these guys, I'd proactively replace the bearings, the ring nut with the DT Swiss Metal version (HXDXXX00N1131S) and replace the star ratchet springs as well (2x of HXDXXX00N1087S) if you are using ZTTO's star ratchet. Lastly, see if you can snag these with the 36T ratchet instead of the 54T. Or best yet, snag the DT Swiss 24T Star Ratchet kit (HWTXXX00NSKTFS) which comes with new springs, and the special grease for 44$. At that point its cheaper to just buy the DT hub: https://www.bike24.com/p281576.html but thanks for posting the relevant part numbers. May 05, 2021, 12:30:15 AM |
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Re: Waltly Ti gravel - dropped seatstay and fat tubes - in progress
I compared baking soda and H2SO4 and there was no noticeable difference for me, so baking soda wins due to its safety factor. Tried various isopropyl, solvents, strong lemon cleaner, CLR acid cleaner, nothing had any effect on the under-anodized areas. Maybe a stronger acid would work. Moving on to sanding/polishing, this got instant results. But yeah the scotch brite pad I had was a courser grit that whatever Waltly used on the frame, so good warning there, it won't look the same. I may end up polishing the entire frame. I'm not sure how much polishing the etched areas can take, ~10s of fine grit polishing is OK, but I'm sure any sort of ~500 grit or less will take them away quickly. This guy is getting amazing results with a very simple setup: https://cyclingtips.com/2018/10/masterclass-anodising-titanium-with-mooro-cycles/ May 05, 2021, 07:03:09 PM |
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Re: Waltly Ti gravel - dropped seatstay and fat tubes - in progress
This guy is saying pink is a different process: http://www.torontocycles.com/Titanium_Anodizing.html He's also explained why the purple color I had was more likely to have these color variations in it: Quote Pink vs. Purple Titanium Anodizing: From this video it appears to be down to surface finish/roughness, in this case only one surface looks pink: edit: the ~20V level is really easy to buff out, once you get up to over 60V the colors are a lot more tough and need to be sanded off. Its expected as the layer thickness is higher, but, its more than you'd expect. Was able to get a really dark pink but only on the weld bead. May 06, 2021, 02:35:31 PM |
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