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Messages - TidyDinosaur

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1
Possible solutions:
- Find another suitable compression ring and replace it:
(Hygge told me that they could send me the much higher plastic ring, but that this would leave a huge gap (3mm?) between the frame and the headset cap).
I have found another cone and will explain how to install it in another post.

I have received the new headset spacer assembly with the plastic ring. The difference is not 3 mm but about 1mm when I just put them together on my desk. So when you install it and with some compression it will probably be less (since I expect the plastic ring to compress more). I would think that this is better than the steel ring because the cap that covers the top bearing rubs the frame with this one.
I am not planning to install this ring as long as my current solution stays tight...

2
Purchased the ZTTO DR190 54t ratchet hubs.  The spoke holes are double drilled shaped like a key hole.  Anyone know the purpose of that?  ZTTO says it's for better durability but I'm scratching my chin.
It's for flat spokes like the sapim cx ray

3
The 411/412 are decent hubs. I use them on my gravel and on my roadbike. Have done 1000's of kms with them. They need some maintenance and replacement of the bearings from time to time (I use cheap Ali bearings) but I've not have anything fail on me.
Replacement parts and freehubs are cheap and easy to find.

4
Novatec 791/792 and 411/412 can do what you want I think. Just check the novatec webshop for the conversion parts.

5
In my opinion the seatpost does not sufficiently filter the roughness of the road but the tires compensate (5.5 bar with TPU inner tube at the rear and latex at the front) but I don't like it either when it's too "bulbous".
You could try to lower the pressure... 5,5bar (80 PSI) is pretty high for today's standard. I am 65kg and inflate my 28mm tires to 50 psi in the back and 45 in the front. I ride tubeless though...

6
Can anyone recommend some high quality, light, with solid side entry carbon bottle cages?  Need some for MTB.

I use these. Not carbon, but light and cheap. They work well with 750ml bottles, but not so great for 1l bottles.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002203998370.html

7
given the state of the 2nd hand bike market, if you can, get Shimano and not Sensah. I've had mixed experience with Sensah 2x11 carbon. Shimano just works, vs Sensah is largely untested, and if you have warranty issues, you find yourself without a bike for 6 weeks if you're lucky, to deal with back and forth, explanations, shipping and so on. Although, in my experience, Sensah just tells you to eat a d1ck and doesn't honor any kind of warranty anyway, so that simplifies things.
Yes, just get second hand ultegra. It just works.

8
Absolutely not erg mode, just a set, constant resistance

Why not ERG? I use trainerday programs, so those are blocks of fixed resistance for several minutes. Why would I not be able to use that?
I checked my 4iiii left arm PM against my Zwift hub last week and it also was a little lower compared to the Hub. I set it to 103%.

9
29er / Re: Elves Nandor Pro build thread
« on: May 07, 2024, 02:12:36 AM »
Damn that's a nice looking frame :)

10
Well that is a great idea.
You just need to provide a way to connect a cable to the lever along the hydraulic cylinder.
So if you use hydraulic, you just use cylinder. O
f you use rim brake you actuate both the cable and cylinder at the same time, but cylinder does nothing.
I wonder how nobody thought of that before...
I would guess it makes the shifter bigger...

11
That gap on the bottom between the 2 plates also looks weird. Is that normal?

12
Been a while since I built up a bike... not done an internally routed one before. Seems fairly straight forward but just wanted to check especially with those who have successfully built one of these.

The bike came with two teflon cables already inside the frame ( white cables) one for rear brake and rear mech, but not front mech and not front brake. They are just about long enough so the ends protrude out of each end of the hole - what's the deal with these. Are they to use as guides or can I use them as cable housing? They're not long enough to reach the bars so i'm a bit confused here. I could extend with a bit of compression less housing but this doesn't sit right with me.

Will the bars allow 2 x cable housing internally on each side? The inside seems a bit tight using RISK compressionles housing.

The exit holes for the rear mech and rear brake has no grommet. Is this right? Just seems a bit cheap...
Yes, the hoses are just guides. Do full external housing.
I did full mechanical so 4 cables is possible. No experience with Compressionless housing
And indeed, no grommets supplied. This is a shame.

13
But upon inspection it seems like my expander plug did not move, but just the stem maybe? I'm not sure if I should add some carbon paste on my stem. Anyone has suggestions?
Yes you should use carbon paste on the stem/steerer tube interface.

14
These look OK at first sight: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005871463985.html
Reviews are good and people seem to have measured them. Capacity even looks higher than stated.

15
Not sure if this prognosis is exhaustive, but there is probably a problem with 1 of the 14500 batteries I had on my bike. Just compared two "new" 14500 batteries which were giving ±4 volts. The ones installed were giving ±3v (which apparently is the cutoff?) and ±3.5v.
4,2V = fully charged. 3V is definately empty and very low

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