Chinertown
Chinese Carbon MTB => 29+ & 27+ => Topic started by: deezums on December 16, 2017, 12:15:19 PM
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Hello everyone!
I'm pretty new to MTB, went riding with some friends a while ago and had a few nice bikes to try. I rode a specialized epic sworks, and a stuntjumper fsr comp carbon 6fattie. I had a lot more fun on the stuntjumper! According to this the ican p9 is pretty similar.
https://geometrygeeks.bike/compare/ican-p9-2017-m,specialized-stumpjumper-fsr-carbon-6fattie-2016-m/ (https://geometrygeeks.bike/compare/ican-p9-2017-m,specialized-stumpjumper-fsr-carbon-6fattie-2016-m/)
I've ordered a P9 frame from Ican, as well as a 40mm wheelset which should all be here well before spring! I found a deal on a new rockshox monarch plus 210x60, and I'm about to pull the trigger on a 180mm dual position lyric. The frame geometry calls for a fork crown to axle of 571mm, the rockshox lyrik 180 is happily 572mm! I have noticed rideczech mention wanting a fork 20mm longer, when it comes available!
I've noticed most P9 builds I've seen seem to use shorter forks, in looking at forks for the past week I'm thinking this might just be because the market isn't there yet? I've searched a lot and can't find much I would like that has 110 front axle and fits 3" tires!! It's not easy finding options within my budget that are still available, then finding geometry and tire fitment specs is always hit or miss. I am open to suggestions, if you would like to share!
Would it make sense to use a dual position shock to have the option of ~1.33 deg steeper head angle on the fly or would a cheaper, simpler solo air be better? Is it a bad idea to run so much front shock travel? I think I would like the extra bb height, and if I understand correctly I need 571mm crown to axle to maintain 66 degree head angle as shown on the geometry drawing?
I plan on running GX eagle components, 165mm crankset. Is this the adapter I need for BSA?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/SRAM-Bottom-Bracket-GXP-Team-Cups-English-73-68mm-New/382257639479?epid=2254439874&hash=item590054b037:g:xcEAAOSwO7hZ6-5u
Thanks for reading, and for any and all advice!!
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I don't know anything about the P9, but I hope your build is as fun to ride as my SJ6F! Good luck with your build!
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Thanks, I hope everything I've picked works out alright in the end too!
I've been ordering parts and waiting for them to arrive for a while now, it's all finally showing up! I got the frame and wheels, they made it through shipping in excellent shape!
(https://s17.postimg.org/616tvyidr/IMG_20180112_182701.jpg)
Here's a list of what I'll be running...
Ican P9 Medium frame
40mm ican carbon wheels with novatec hubs
Maxxis DHF/DHRII 2.8"
Rockshox Monarch plus RC3 210x60, 8x30mm upper bushing, 8x25.4mm lower
Rockshox Lyrik RCT3 180mm dual position
Reverb 125mm Post
Eagle GX groupset, 165mm GXP crank and 73mm adapter
Magura MT Trail Sport brakes, 203mm front/180mm rear
35mm stem, 740mm Ican riser bar
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Most parts have come in! Still waiting on brakes, and some bleeding tools for the post...
(https://s17.postimg.org/rn841uonz/IMG_20180120_190801.jpg)
https://s17.postimg.org/fy44dvxp9/IMG_20180120_190801.jpg
(https://s17.postimg.org/v6u1rnby7/IMG_20180120_190709.jpg)
https://s17.postimg.org/5bab8ga4d/IMG_20180120_190709.jpg
(https://s17.postimg.org/trsh2y5q7/IMG_20180120_190745.jpg)
https://s17.postimg.org/9kf1an88t/IMG_20180120_190745.jpg
(https://s17.postimg.org/5bab8gx9r/IMG_20180120_190721.jpg)
https://s17.postimg.org/i2ohez71p/IMG_20180120_190721.jpg
Some notes on what's been done...
My steerer tube is weird looking, I am leaving it long for a while till I know how I want it permanently.
I taped up the Ican rims using Kapton tape, I ordered 35mm width and I had 20mm on hand from previous projects. The 20mm works much better as it's easier to pull tight with no wrinkles. The 35mm is perfect considering the drop center geometry (34mm inner width) but it's impossible to tension the drop center enough while keeping the bead surfaces flat and wrinkle free. No sealant yet and I can hold pressure for days with the 20mm tape, the tire is still easy enough to install and remove with no tools using the drop center. Partially mounting the bead by hand is all that's needed for seating the bead with an air pump. I am super happy with the wheels so far!
The routing for an internal dropper post is confusing, there are three outlet holes on the down tube as well as an inlet hole on the seat tube. At first glance it seems the routing is meant to go inside the down tube, out around the lower shock eye, then into the seat tube on the non-drive side. There is a hole inside the BB threaded shell, this makes it easy to run the internally routed dropper post internally the entire way with no aggressive bends and no worries on crank clearance to cables on the non-drive side. If the seat tube hole is an outlet for an external dropper post it's angled the wrong direction! I'm not really sure what's going on with the extra holes...
I found the chain length sizing kinda confusing, but I managed to work it all out using the bike itself. The chain growth is pretty radical with 60mm shock travel, keeping the chain short enough for full droop travel on the 10 cog while keeping a chain long enough at full compression on the 50 cog is tricky. These limits are pretty radical, not normal operating conditions by any means, but I managed to make it perfect. The lower chain guide I picked actually helps, it shortens the chain at full droop but does not do so as much at full compression. I'm not sure if this is the intended design, I didn't know it when I bought it but I like it! I am using 118 links on my chain, if this helps anyone else.
I also purchased Linakge software and modeled the frame as best I could using the given documents, hopefully they are at least to scale for this to be anything accurate. The most descriptive PDF does not give XY dimensions of piviot points, only direct dimensions in some places and no angles, useless!!
(https://s17.postimg.org/nfidq2gnj/image.png)
https://s17.postimg.org/b0vlpqp59/image.png
The following is a graph of anti-squat with 21-32. 50t is around 125% at 20% sag, and 215% on the 10t.
I wonder how well I can ride with no brakes?
;D
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I have modeled the frame so let me know what dimensions you need. I based my drawings on the pdf plan from mtbr, they showed to be quite accurate. At least most measures where in the mm range proximity.
Your build makes me drool ;)
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Thanks! And thanks for the offer, if you've got a way to export a DXF or something similar I wouldn't mind taking a look! I believe I am +/-5mm or so right now, I used the more detailed Medium sided frame drawing and traced the piviot points and frame.
I'm in love with this bike already, the inaugural ride with no brakes went flawlessly besides me getting too confident in the mud! More like clay, that crap stuck! I locked the front wheel up on the fork but the rear has clearance for days! Wish the weather would cooperate more...
(https://s17.postimg.org/bkjj1j6i7/IMG_20180121_162051.jpg)
(https://s17.postimg.org/k2sz5upvj/IMG_20180121_162031.jpg)
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I attach what I have, yours might be better as you can measure the real thing =)
For me it was just a quick work to see how I would fit.
I hope weather cooperates, you put brakes and make a nice review of the bike ;)
Cheers
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wow this is really great info guys, thanks for sharing. Love the build.. super jealous! I don't need another bike!
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Thank you both :)
I'll compare the measurements you have with my own and see if there are any huge differences!
Water, water in the downtube!! There is no drain hole, I had to remove the bottom bracket! I need to check and see if any of the ISGC tapped holes go through into the frame, if they do maybe I can get a vented screw to use as a water drain. I really, really don't want to drill a hole anywhere! It seems an extra small hole could be placed in the aluminum BSA bracket pointing down, I will send a e-mail to Ican and see if they take suggestions...
Also, the wheels have taken on water! That's probably gonna get at the sticky side of my tape and ruin it!
Is this normal for carbon bits? To be fair, I'd call the amount of water I used cleaning mud about the same as throwing it in a lake. It's also unfair to call it mud, it was more clay ;D
I did a few things this evening, nothing too exciting. I took advantage of the Horst link and purchased some 50mm heat shrink and cut it into sections, then disassembled the rear pivots and slipped it over the chainstay for a ghetto chain guard! If you do this trick, I suggest shrinking the wheel and ground facing side before doing the outer and upper face as it seems to pull the heat shrink tighter with less heat and looks a little neater in the end. Lots of the heat shrink this size has glue included and takes much more heat to shrink, I wouldn't get that stuff!
(https://s17.postimg.org/vjrvh7zz3/IMG_20180122_185229.jpg)
https://s17.postimg.org/lz88ucan1/IMG_20180122_185229.jpg
I also bled the dropper post and I'm happy to report it works a lot more reliably than it did when I got it! It used to get ~1" of soft travel if you were to stop midway in the stroke occasionally, not very good. I haven't had that issue since the bleed, it only has ~1mm of vertical play. I am also glad I did not get a 150mm travel post, I would not be able to use the extra travel!
My brakes are still somewhere between the UK and USA, I may check the tracking number rather frequently ;D
More to come :)
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I really like your idea of heat shrink. Cleaner than anything I've seen so far.
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...Water, water in the downtube!! There is no drain hole...
...Also, the wheels have taken on water!...
I drilled a 2mm hole, at the bottom of most of my frames when the water was not going out( there is mud half of the year here ).
Either because there was no drain hole, or it was misplaced due to the fork length.
For the wheels, I have a pair that takes more water than the others.
You can deflate and unscrew the valve when at the bottom, this will send the water in the tire.
Or just unbead one side of the tire to do it if it is a problem.
I've never noticed any issue with the tape though.
I didn't say it directly in this post, but it is an amazing looking bike :)
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I'm not sure I can bring myself to drill a hole, and I'm not too keen on pulling the bottom bracket apart often!
I believe I can figure a way to control a proper drill bit to do so without delamination, but not so much when crossing over into the aluminum. The aluminum bracket also has a 5mm lip inside where it meets the downtube, for complete drainage I would need to drill the downtube. This lip also makes it interesting getting dropper screws out of the frame, careful while removing those hose covers ;D
I'm not sure what I would like to do, I'll have to think about it for a while. Maybe I can use a thicker version of plastidip to seal as much as I can? I wish the seatpost were a little easier to remove!
If I dry out my wheels and put a little sealant in with the nipples I wonder if it'll help keep that water out. I'm not as worried about the wheels as I am the bottom bracket.
Thank you both for the nice comments! Carbonazza, were the frames you drilled alloy or carbon?
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Carbonazza, were the frames you drilled alloy or carbon?
Carbon frames... I know I shouldn't, but water and mud were accumulating regularly, killing the bearings quickly.
They are still riding ok, without cracks there.
Isn't there a hole in yours?
Maybe it is just misplaced because you have a fork that is longer or shorter than it was planned.
You could just make your bike stand with a wheel elevated, at the right angle so it empties itself.
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I don't think this frame has a hole, I checked the iscg holes and they are blind so I can't use them as a drain. I might just have to drill one
My brakes finally came, tomorrow I might get some real riding in!
Bleeding brakes sucks! It took much longer than I thought it would, all the daylight was gone by the time I was done. In the end I made a hanging handlebar reservoir and used a syringe to push/pull fluid back and forth 800 times. I found it best to only trigger the brake lever while pulling fluid through the caliper, then waiting for all the tiny microscopic bubbles to collect on top of the syringe before pushing it back through. Also zip tied the calipers vertical and tapped them with a plastic handle a lot to dislodge bubbles. When I was finally done I capped off the master cylinder while using the caliper syringe to purge all air from the bleed port. I had to remove the calipers and make sure to have them above the master cylinder when removing the syringe from the caliper, then I'd use the syringe to add a few drips of fluid to the port before installing the cap. I'm pretty happy with how tight they are now, but I think I can make them better still.
I came up with a trick for the rear brake cable, there is no cable stay on the seat tube and the cable naturally wants to flex out into the crank arm. Since I did not use the odd extra dropper post hole I was able to use it and a zip tie to make a seat tube cable stay.
(https://s17.postimg.org/w6c4m9x1b/IMG_20180127_224543.jpg)
Here is a shot of the rear at full droop travel with the 210x60 shock, the seat sure gets close 8)
(https://s17.postimg.org/v41y3q6i7/IMG_20180127_224438.jpg)
I took the bike out to some jumps earlier, while I still didn't have brakes. I tried sending it, but it's still pretty muddy and no brakes don't mix well. I ate it a few times and christened the pedals on my calves really well, but the bike took it all like a champ. I cased one pretty good too, used all but the last 10-15mm of the front shock but still managed to roll over. Whoops! ;D
The bottom bracket is really really low! It's going to take some getting used to, feels as though you'll hit everything. I got a pedal down hauling around a corner on a paved trail and skipped the rear out pretty good, could have went a lot worse.
I think I need to slow down before I really hurt myself :)
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Bleeding brakes sucks!
Only the first times :)
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And I think I'm gonna have to do it again! I left the rear brake line too long, it gets stuck on my lockout. I still need to adjust a bunch, still not sure how I want it. The bars are all a mess, I need to do something about it. I ran the brakes backwards, it makes more sense to me with experience riding motorcycles.
I managed to get some more riding in, and pictures! There's a fun little spot not far from where I live, where I keep managing to hurt myself :)
(https://s17.postimg.org/mydx5bvy7/IMG_20180131_172642.jpg)
https://s17.postimg.org/mlmiz5dod/IMG_20180131_172642.jpg
(https://s17.postimg.org/psh2isdjz/IMG_20180131_172655.jpg)
https://s17.postimg.org/9u8csnjbx/IMG_20180131_172655.jpg
(https://s17.postimg.org/6ndt90r67/IMG_20180131_172823.jpg)
https://s17.postimg.org/szbm2eqa5/IMG_20180131_172823.jpg
(https://s17.postimg.org/58c8kb5in/IMG_20180130_170454.jpg)
(https://s17.postimg.org/a6zqyt6qn/IMG_20180130_170439.jpg)
I think I'm going to get new tires, thinking WTB Rangers or Maxxis Chronicles. Something that rolls just a bit easier!
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I run a Rekon out back and its a great tyre.....I have always run a quicker tyre on the rear and something aggressive on the front....
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I think I figured out what a lot of my problems were on hitting these jumps, I had my handlebars rotated way too far back and I'm guessing lost a lot of leverage over the front end. I was having a hard time getting the front to pop off kickers, no matter how hard I tried to preload it just seemed to eat it up even more and leave me no speed till the rear hit and tries to send you OTB...
Rotating them forward moved me forwards a good bit and I'm able to manipulate the front much easier. I can pretty reliably clear the jump between the trees in the last photo ;D
I went and rode some real trails today and had a blast, part of the ride was maybe a 500-800 meter 20% grade to "earn the decent" and this thing eats it up so we did it twice! It climbs better than the 2013 stumpy elite on the same hill, and I seemed to be having an easier time than my buddy on the SJ6F with the 9-46 ethirteen cassette. I forgot to use the dual position front shock the first time up and really didn't notice much of a difference the second time, kind of wishing I got a solo air now since they've got more easy upgrades. Maybe I just need to find steeper hills!
Spent some time working on some jumps in the afternoon too, with shovels and bikes both...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XNf6r5iVg_o
My buddy jumping the stumpy, then my bike after the sun pretty much gave up. He slipped off the brake levers and almost ate a tree, I moved them in quite a bit to work them with one finger :)
I need to get a MTB friendly gopro setup!
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I've been busy enjoying the bike! I got some new tires, the WTB Ranger Fast/Light. Dropped over a pound of rotating mass, 532g to be exact! I also picked up some cheap plastic fenders, you can use a front one on the rear rather easily.
I've also been busy helping build jumps, no dig no ride!
(https://s17.postimg.org/n38mmmxu7/IMG_20180213_171529.jpg)
https://s17.postimg.org/rp4quzjd9/IMG_20180213_171529.jpg
(https://s17.postimg.org/ihcieazgf/IMG_20180218_162223.jpg)
https://s17.postimg.org/iu3wkhhq5/IMG_20180218_162223.jpg
I also bought a vinyl cutter, it's a learning curve but I think I'm figuring it out!
(https://s17.postimg.org/u6gi29ipb/IMG_20180218_191048.jpg)
(https://s17.postimg.org/x0jnfpd5r/IMG_20180218_191115.jpg)
I believe my piviot bearings are going out, I took the rear pivots apart and found some rust. I get some squeaks on occasion. Thinking I might have to take the thing apart and measure everything, either that or wait till after the 28th to hear back from Ican!
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Love the plus tires, sorry to hear the bearings may all need to be replaced.
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I also bought a vinyl cutter, it's a learning curve but I think I'm figuring it out!
Nice! Funny you mention this as I bought one a couple weeks ago also. Which one did you get? There is a bit of a learning curve but I think I have it figured out. It's the cut settings that seem to be variable. I've been using some Oracal 651 with great results but I've also got some black reflective vinyl that's been a bit of a pain. I've set the depth so it's cutting halfway through the paper and it's still a PITA to weed. It also decided to leave an adhesive deposit on the cutting blade which then pulled all the letters off and I ruined half a sheet.
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Some reflective black pictures. Flash vs no flash
(http://i.imgur.com/5woBQzal.jpg) (https://imgur.com/5woBQza)
(http://i.imgur.com/SoAJXx4l.jpg) (https://imgur.com/SoAJXx4)
(http://i.imgur.com/ALtvqwIl.jpg) (https://imgur.com/ALtvqwI)
(http://i.imgur.com/YgRCag4l.jpg) (https://imgur.com/YgRCag4)
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Cool man thats awesome!
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Nice! Funny you mention this as I bought one a couple weeks ago also. Which one did you get? There is a bit of a learning curve but I think I have it figured out. It's the cut settings that seem to be variable. I've been using some Oracal 651 with great results but I've also got some black reflective vinyl that's been a bit of a pain. I've set the depth so it's cutting halfway through the paper and it's still a PITA to weed. It also decided to leave an adhesive deposit on the cutting blade which then pulled all the letters off and I ruined half a sheet.
I got a UScutter MH365, the little one. I've worked with lots of cheap chinese laser cutters, cnc routers and other oddities, this one is by far the smoothest one I've played with yet.
I'm using some greenstar outdoor stuff for now, figured I'd practice on the cheap stuff but it's honestly not too bad where I've used it so far. I did a few tests to calibrate blade offset and messed with the roller pressure so it doesn't emboss the material so much. I also turned up the cutting pressure quite a bit and the speed way down, I think I have it around 60mm/s and 180-200g for a pressure.
I managed to cut a tiny little brake rotor, going to make a "Right hand front" sticker to warn people! This complicated mess weeded just fine but the big block text to the left did not! I think it is because most of the cuts on the artwork were continuous, but the text had sharp corners where the blade stopped or restarted. I imported a raw DXF as a test, it cut that segment by segment as if there was no continuous contour!! Not good for weeding!
(https://s17.postimg.org/4d8f4ny4f/IMG_20180219_220122.jpg)
That black reflective stuff is cool, I'm going to have to get some of that! I might try using a new blade to see if I can keep from wasting a sheet, I've accidentally ran across the wear strip a few times on accident besides all the vinyl I've cut.
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I took the rear apart today and measured the bearings. They're all one size, 6801's! A few are totally shot, super chunky turning, the rest are OK. I thought my spraying the bike with the hose for two hours cleaning clay off might have caused some water intrusion but everything under the dust shields looks OK. Now I am thinking they were low quality to begin with or there was some glue intrusion maybe? There are 11 in total, the front chainstay piviot has two bearings on the drive side and one on the non-drive side. Interestingly, the suspension piviot is all aluminum and only painted or coated black, some cool machining went into that piece. The chainstay piviot bolt is aluminum but solid construction. I remember seeing something of these breaking on other Ican frames. I'm looking back now and can't find where I saw that now, were those that snapped hollow?
Anyway, what I found with the sticky bearings doesn't seem like something that would cause the squeaking I'm hearing, argh!!
Back to crummy cold and wet weather for the near future, boo :(
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I got a UScutter MH365, the little one. I've worked with lots of cheap chinese laser cutters, cnc routers and other oddities, this one is by far the smoothest one I've played with yet.
That's a sweet cutter! I'm completely new to this so I went with the "scrap booking grandmother" model at $199 from Amazon. So far it's been great for what I want to do. I think the issue with the vinyl has more to do with the thickness of the adhesive layer as it seems to incorporate the reflective sparkles to some extent. If that makes sense.
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I took the rear apart today and measured the bearings. They're all one size, 6801's! A few are totally shot, super chunky turning, the rest are OK. I thought my spraying the bike with the hose for two hours cleaning clay off might have caused some water intrusion but everything under the dust shields looks OK. Now I am thinking they were low quality to begin with or there was some glue intrusion maybe? There are 11 in total, the front chainstay piviot has two bearings on the drive side and one on the non-drive side. Interestingly, the suspension piviot is all aluminum and only painted or coated black, some cool machining went into that piece. The chainstay piviot bolt is aluminum but solid construction. I remember seeing something of these breaking on other Ican frames. I'm looking back now and can't find where I saw that now, were those that snapped hollow?
Anyway, what I found with the sticky bearings doesn't seem like something that would cause the squeaking I'm hearing, argh!!
Back to crummy cold and wet weather for the near future, boo :(
I broke mine. Bolt was solid aluminum and broke right where the threaded portion meets the shank.
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Hey guys I'm new here. Just looking at picking up a p9 and was wondering about people's input on the frame and how the sizing works. I usually ride a medium to large frame I'm 5'10. Thanks guys
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On rideczech's thread there's a bit of chat about sizing.
http://chinertown.com/index.php?topic=1303.60
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Thank you for the info.
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I wish I could be more help but I haven't many points to reference, other than the two stumpys pictured above. Those are both large, my frame is a medium and feels less cramped than either now that I have my bars angled properly. If you look at the comparison between a medium P9 and a Large SJ6F here you'll see they are pretty dang close except the chainstay...
https://geometrygeeks.bike/compare/specialized-stumpjumper-fsr-carbon-6fattie-2016-l,ican-p9-2017-m/
I wish I got a 150-170mm dropper post now, I had mine as low as it would go and it was great till I hit a climb. I've been slowly raising it, and I've been bit by the saddle twice now!
I might look into making some spare lower piviot bolts, just in case. I should have measured the thing while I had it out. Guess I still need to replace those bearings, anyway. What's your guy's opinion on the enduro bearings, I think they have more bearings for better load capacity? They aren't cheap, must be good ;D
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FYI i built this up over 6 months ago - you can see it here: http://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,1349.0.html
I did a 29er build, so let me know if you have any questions.
Just going through your post - i routed the dropper cable over the BB shell (all internal). As for the additional holes, I covered it with clear tape.
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FYI i built this up over 6 months ago - you can see it here: http://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,1349.0.html
I did a 29er build, so let me know if you have any questions.
Just going through your post - i routed the dropper cable over the BB shell (all internal). As for the additional holes, I covered it with clear tape.
Could you make a report of your bike pros & cons after 6 months?
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PROS:
P9 is a very up to date enduro 29er frame. It compares to many late 2017/2018 29ers from large companies (Norco, Specialized, Giant, Transition etc) Long Reach, Slack, Long wheel base, Good Travel. (If you want XC like, go P8)
Stiffer than Aluminum (Giant Reign) in comparison.
Fast and Stable, Easy to maneuver (compared to my Medium Giant Reign)
Threaded BB
Decent Progression on shock i believe like 28-30%, so Coil is compatible.
32 pounds weight.
CONS:
Not extensively tested so don't know about durability, but you pay for what you get.
Bolts and Nuts are not greased at all. Built in nuts (Shock, Brake Mount) seems like they use a soft aluminum so it may strip easily if threaded wrong or forced.
Bearings generic, don't know how well they will hold up.
Too many internal cabling holes (water will get into the frame).
Lacks Protection (BB, Downtube, Chainstay/Seat stay). Had to install my own.
32 pounds weight.
This is what I can come up with so far. Ask more questions and I can help out.
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What kind of shock would you recomend for the P9?
I've seen a very cheap RS Deluxe RT ( open&trail compression modes) and also, a not so cheap Fox dps (with 3 pos compression) and I would like to know, how important would be to have a "platform" for pedalling...
I appreciate any inputs
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What kind of shock would you recomend for the P9?
I've seen a very cheap RS Deluxe RT ( open&trail compression modes) and also, a not so cheap Fox dps (with 3 pos compression) and I would like to know, how important would be to have a "platform" for pedalling...
I appreciate any inputs
really depends what you are using the bike for....any climbing long climbs (10+ mins involved), a "firm" pedaling platform is useful.
really right now for 210x55 Shock required for this bike here's your options:
RockShox:
Deluxe (RT - the trail mode will firm it up a bit which will help with pedaling, RC3 or RCT3 is what you want)
Super Deluxe (same as above with piggyback which is much better for long descent)
Super Deluxe Coil (same as above, but Coil)
Fox:
Dpx2 (comes with 3 settings, expensive, hard to find)
DVO:
Topaz (what I am using. Love it. 3 settings - if you get lucky it's best bang for buck imo)
Cane Creek - Expensive:
DB Coil IL (comes with climb switch)
DB Air IL (same as above in the air version)
DB Coil CS (piggy back version of the above, climb switch)
DB Air CS (same as above in the air verson, climb switch)
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What kind of shock would you recomend for the P9?
I've seen a very cheap RS Deluxe RT ( open&trail compression modes) and also, a not so cheap Fox dps (with 3 pos compression) and I would like to know, how important would be to have a "platform" for pedalling...
I appreciate any inputs
really depends what you are using the bike for....any climbing long climbs (10+ mins involved), a "firm" pedaling platform is useful.
really right now for 210x55 Shock required for this bike here's your options:
RockShox:
Deluxe (RT - the trail mode will firm it up a bit which will help with pedaling, RC3 or RCT3 is what you want)
Super Deluxe (same as above with piggyback which is much better for long descent)
Super Deluxe Coil (same as above, but Coil)
Fox:
Dpx2 (comes with 3 settings, expensive, hard to find)
DVO:
Topaz (what I am using. Love it. 3 settings - if you get lucky it's best bang for buck imo)
Cane Creek - Expensive:
DB Coil IL (comes with climb switch)
DB Air IL (same as above in the air version)
DB Coil CS (piggy back version of the above, climb switch)
DB Air CS (same as above in the air verson, climb switch)
Hopefully Manitou comes out with something soon for the metric shock's. Would be nice for them to add a 210x55 Mcleod to that list.
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@R_Pierce, I've been told Manitou will introduce the new McLeods sizes around June....
@ijak, Thank you.
I have seen a RS Deluxe RT for 136€, so there's nothing that could beat this price. I have had a FS bike with a 3 pos Monarch on it for 5 years. I have yet to use the Lock position, and 99% of the time, the shock is in trail position. I think this Deluxe RT may be the one that fills the tick.
And wtf, I can always upgrade the shock if needed =)
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In my opinion - just dish out the money for a good shock off the start. i've spent wayyyyy too much "upgrading" along the way.
Also if you are getting the frame from ican, double check if they offer RS's super deluxe RC3 - it should be about 240€.
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In my opinion - just dish out the money for a good shock off the start. i've spent wayyyyy too much "upgrading" along the way.
Also if you are getting the frame from ican, double check if they offer RS's super deluxe RC3 - it should be about 240€.
Ill second this except Ill never ride a RS shock again. After riding my Manitou Mcleod the RS felt like trash. I couldnt believe the difference in suppleness, overall control, platform. Everything was way better. Overall feel. All of it.
Buy a good shock from the get go. I also made the mistake of "upgrading" along the way. Spent WAY more money than I would have just buying the better stuff from the get go.
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FYI i built this up over 6 months ago - you can see it here: http://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,1349.0.html
I did a 29er build, so let me know if you have any questions.
Just going through your post - i routed the dropper cable over the BB shell (all internal). As for the additional holes, I covered it with clear tape.
Thanks for posting what you did! Yours and rideczeck's build logs are a main reason why I ordered this frame!
With all this talk about shocks and since you're here, did you order that Topaz straight from DVO? I looked around for deals on them but couldn't find much for under $500 or so.
I managed to get a pretty good deal on this Monarch, apparently they came on some trek slash. I bought this one as a factory takeoff on ebay for a touch over $200. I was planning on ordering more volume spacers, it has two now and I can still get through all the travel pretty easily with 12mm or 20% of sag. I think it might be because the frame has a linear leverage ratio and the debonair can is supposed to make the shock less progressive. From what linkage says, it goes from 3.35mm/mm to 2.3mm/mm at full compression. If I am not mistaken, this means it's 150% linearly progressive ratio, as in it's right about 2.85mm/mm at half the travel. I think Specialized Enduro is similar, some people complain about the debonair can and attribute it to the geometry being linear, I assume they mean linearly progressive? But what kind of slope are we talking? I should roughly sketch one of those up, curious what they look like in comparison.
I need to know what my shock does, too. Need to build adapters for my homemade shock dyno.
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Not sure what tune you are using for the monarch but it's one of the reasons why I didn't go for Rockshox as the DVO allowed me to tune the whole system via bladder pressure. There's also a negative air chamber that I can put spacers into which will make the beginning stroke more supple. Then spacers in the positive chamber for bottom out resistance. In terms of progressiveness this frame is pretty close to a 2016 norco range frame. You can YouTube that to find the full break down of the norco range suspension. Overall the frame is progressive enough to use a coil shock.
In terms of the monarch... It's not really the right shock for this bike as monarch don't come in metric..the equivalent would be the deluxe..which is built much better imo. Longer shock with more stroke spacing (210x55 vs 200x57). You also want at least a M/M tune.
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Not sure if it would work but do you think a 210x65 would work on the p9 frame. Thanks
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Not sure if it would work but do you think a 210x65 would work on the p9 frame. Thanks
For sure NO - 29" or 27.5+" - upon full compression, the frame might touch, but the wheels will touch your dropped seat.
Questionable - 27.5" - the frame might touch
alternatively if you found a cheap shock, you can shim it to 210x55.
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Also if you are getting the frame from ican, double check if they offer RS's super deluxe RC3 - it should be about 240€.
I confirm they offer that shock at that price. That's a no brainer then about which shock to use as start.