Many of you think a slower gearing is way enough fot mtb, maybe I have bad habbits..should I get use to pedal with more RPM on straigts? Is cca 90rpm cadence normal?

I come from cyclocross when I was younger, the rings have usually 38-48T, such drivetrain now would be: https://www.sram.com/sram/road/family/sram-force-1
I wouldn't consider mtb before because of small wheels, but when 29ers became available I went for one because I could use sturdier frame and suspension fork. So I build a mtb cyclocrosser. I don't want to go back because with mtb I can go down rough terrain with confidence and ease. Now I want a full carbon mtb which would be even closer to cyclocross because of weight but sturdy as a mtb - a win-win.

Where besides going downhill can you consistently ride 35+ mph?

Now about the speeds. You are right, can't go 35mph consistent on anything other than a decline or wind from back, 35+ downhill. Usually on flat road I cruise 25mph but with low rpm. Catching road bikes with cyclocross gearing is totally possible with snakeskin tires, the mtb accelerates slowly though (this I want to fix with carbon) and wind resistance is a little problem in long-run. I pedal somewhere between 60-80 rpm.

Unless your racing harder then Nino, a 30-34 tooth is more then enough on a 1x11 setup.

I don't race with this bike, well I would suck with my gearing on a mtb racing track you are right:) there would be no chance to exploit the fast gears - even not on downhills since the tracks are build to be technical. The bike I need is a daily commuter to go well on gravel and road but to handle also terrain and a 200lb/90kg guy. Should I have 2 different bikes? I do daily commute and weekend roadtrips on mix of road and offroad, very similar to cyclocross track.

I see lot's of people getting mountain-bikes but then cycling on flat roads the whole life (at least here in europe). I would consider true mtb gearing if I would bring my bike in car to the woods and then have fun there.

I don't have much experience with 1x11 (only on a test bike) but its the only option I would consider. Currently I have shimano XT 3x9 44-32-22 and 11-32 casette. This setup gives me top gear ratio of 4.0 and in 3 years of daily biking I used the small chain-ring only once - it's pretty much useless to me. The slowest gearing I use is 32T/32T 1.0 which gives me about 6mph or 9-10kph uphill - any slower feels like not moving:)

On flat terrain I usually use 3.67 or 4.0 when slightly downhill. I have very strong legs (am a big heavy guy - not very agile). Couple times I tried not using those gears if I would miss them and I found that yes..I needed to pedal faster (but with less effort) which I felt was tiring me more. The truth is 70% of time I am between the range of 2.3 - 2.9 gearing. I am like a cyclocrossing MTBer because sometime I go over jumps or terrain that would hurt non-mtb bike..

I don't want to go with 3x9 again (the small wheel is dead weight). As any current 2x10 systems don't offer anything close to 3.6 or bigger ratio, I am left with sram's 1x11. With 40T front 10-42T back this would gave me ratios from 4.0 to 0.95 which is more than I use. I plan also to install http://www.oneupcomponents.com/products/x-cog-44t-sprocket to make the cassette 10-44T just in case of some really tall hill. I could go with 38T front but not any lower - I would pedal myself to death:)

The frames should be designed to fit 3-chainring crank, but I have a feeling that the big ring in 3x9 is more offset from the frame than a 1x11 would be, right? So hence why I am concerned. If someone running 1x11 could check how much clearance there is and if it would be possible or not to fit big ring that would help a ton. The 38T chainring should be 6.05" in diameter and 40T ~ 6.37" (thats 15.36cm and 16.18cm) plus some gap to the frame.

The title says it all - carbon rims - hookless or not when tubeless?

Hookless rims should be stronger, but setting up tubeless is more difficult. How well do they hold on and how often you need to pump them?

Which rim width is the way to go and which tire are you using? What pressure can you run safely without burping?

Any experience with how to setup them is also welcomed!

Couple nice frames have BB92 option only (YFY-BM-01: http://www.yfy-carbon.com/en/pro_detail.php?id=20, CS-041: http://www.xmcarbonspeed.com/Productinfo.asp?f=1327, and others), but I would like to run XX1 or X01 1x11 SRAM drivetrain.

The crank in both has options for BB30 bracket (30mm crankshaft) or GXP bracket (24mm stepped crankshaft). So there are 2 options how to fit it:

• Directly pressed bearings into frame (for BB30 crank): http://www.rotorbike.com/products/mtb/bb89-bb92_98 or http://wheelsmfg.com/bottom-brackets/bb86-92/bb86-92-bottom-brackets/bb86-to-30mm-ceramic-hybrid-sealed-bearing.html. The downside is some spacers might be needed because the shaft lenghts migh not fit precisely (is this the case and true?).
• GXP BB92 press-fit bearing cups (for GXP crank): http://www.tredz.co.uk/.SRAM-GXP-Team-Press-Fit-MTB-BB92-Bottom-Bracket_43299.htm. This should be less hack-ish solution and one I favour so far (but have zero experience with). Shimano BB92 brackets are not compatible with stepped SRAM crankshafts so I can't use one.

Which solution should I go with and which is better? Any experience and thoughts would be highly appreciated (I hate squeaking cranks!)

Other thing is I want to use 38T or even 40T front chainring in the 1x11 setup. Would there be enough room between the frame and the huge ring?